Craftsman GT 3000 will not start

[mjspear]

I have a Craftsman GT 3000 mower with tha 23 HP Kohler pro engine. A few weeks ago while mowing, the engine suddenly shut off. After that, I couldn't even get the engine to turn over. It makes no sound when the key is turned unless the pto switch is engaged. I have replaced the fuse, ignition switch, safety swithches, and the operator presence relay. I can't find anything wrong with the wiring. I have had this mower for 4 years and this is the first problem I have had. The model number is 917.275042. I would appreciate any help someone could give me on this situation. Thank you.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

I have a Craftsman GT 3000 mower with tha 23 HP Kohler pro engine. A few weeks ago while mowing, the engine suddenly shut off. After that, I couldn't even get the engine to turn over. It makes no sound when the key is turned unless the pto switch is engaged. I have replaced the fuse, ignition switch, safety swithches, and the operator presence relay. I can't find anything wrong with the wiring. I have had this mower for 4 years and this is the first problem I have had. The model number is 917.275042. I would appreciate any help someone could give me on this situation. Thank you.What is your loaded battery voltage?

[thecrankshaft]

Check for voltage at the starter. The large red wire should always be hot, and the blue wire should have 12 volts in the start position.

[mjspear]

The red wire is hot at about 10 volts, but the blue wire shows nothing in the start position.

[Restrorob]

Put your test leads on the battery post and not the connectors, Read the voltage. It should be between 12 and 12.5, With the leads still connected turn the key to the start position and read the voltage drop if any, Then put the test leads on the connectors and read the voltage and again in the start position. Then post back the results.

[mjspear]

At the terminals, it shows 10.42 and 9.42 at start.
At the leads, it shows 10.31 and 9.31 at start.

[Restrorob]

Before much testing should be done I would suggest trying to charge the battery, It should have between 12 and 12.5 as posted. Then proper test readings can be obtained to trouble shoot the problem.

[mjspear]

My charger shows that the battery has a full charge.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

My charger shows that the battery has a full charge.
"Full-charge" indication or not, I would think your voltage drop is a bit high, if the battery is healthy.
What is the MFR stated cranking current, and how old is it?
I would suggest to all, attaching the install date to side of battery, using a permanent "Sharpie" on a piece of masking tape, then covered with clear strapping tape.
This should be done even on your hearing aid battery, TV clicker, and especially flash-light (kept in your truck) batteries.

[mjspear]

It's the original battery, so that would make it 4 years old. It is 280 cranking amps.

[Restrorob]

My charger shows that the battery has a full charge.

Well your multimeter says it is not at full charge, If I may suggest, Remove the battery and take it to any chain type auto parts store and have them properly load test it, Most will do this for free. I'm leaning toward a bad battery since you have replaced everything but the wire harness. The load test you were performing by turning the key to start may not show a bad battery as well as a full blown battery load tester.


I didn't see your post before this one. Damn man....Go buy a new battery then post back.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

It's the original battery, so that would make it 4 years old. It is 280 cranking amps.Not sure how to break the news to you, but that is old even for a 72 month, 1 ton turbo-diesel truck battery. Start there. I know it is not good to replace expensive items that may or may not fix the fault, but I think you are living on borrowed time here. What do you think?

[Restrorob]

Not sure how to break the news to you, but that is old even for a 72 month


Man if someone can get 2 yrs. out of one of these smaller batteries they are doing real good, But four ......I think someone would crap if that was the whole problem.

[mjspear]

Well, I will change the battery since it won't get a full charge. But that doesn't explain why there is no power going to the blue wire on the solenoid. I even tried a jump start.

[Restrorob]

When you get a known good battery installed, Check for battery voltage on the "B" post on the back of the ignition switch. If present check on the "S" post with the switch in the start position.

[mjspear]

I'll try that.

[mjspear]

It's fixed now. I want to thank you guys for the help. It seems that there was a bad connection in wires going to the PTO switch. I tracked down the problem after it tried to start when I was checking the s post. Having the wires pulled thrugh the dash moved them enough get a connection on the pto switch. At first I thought it was in the ignition wires, but realized it would only try to start when I moved the PTO wires. I cleaned up that 1 bad connector and pryed it open a little more to ensure a good connection. Everything works fine now. Thanks again for the help.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

You probably should put a lock on the barn door where your mower is parked. I suspect that the battery ferry has been calling late some night and swapped a new one out for your 4 yr. old batt, while you were sleeping.:sleeping: :sleeping:

[sheldano]

greetings, i am in the exact same boat. the light comes on but there is nobody home. each time i turn the ignition there is no response- once in a while there might be a clicking sound, but again no response. today, i had the battery hooked up to my truck, the machine turned over and over but failed to engage the motor. i have bought this machine 2nd hand, from a friend who has used it for 4 years, less than 30 hours and never had a problem. any thoughts?

[Albemarle Lawn]

Spray out with cleaner available at AutoZone.

If no fix, replace/rebuild starter.