View Full Version : Techo mini creta wall
08-15-2006, 08:46 PM
Do any of you have expierience with this double sided wall product? We are building a knee wall/sitting wall arounnd a large patio, off the corner of the patio is a 16' circle, all corners are a radius, we are having issues, especially around the circle with the second course matching up to both faces with no gaps. I personally have never used this particular product my boss insists it wll do what we'd like it to. Also there are some areas in the base course where a gap is open on the rear side perhaps an inch or so in spots(it will be the buried course), I thought the gaps were our problem but we can't get things to jive even where there are no gaps. I have no problem just splitting/cutting the block to make it fit but have been told not to under penalty of death...........Whatever. I just want to get it in and done and move on....
08-15-2006, 09:14 PM
That's why they make saws. It is very, very rare that a wall will fit exactly around a radius with no gaps. You will most likely have to cut most of the blocks..............if you want it smooth and looking good, that is.
08-15-2006, 09:30 PM
If im understanding you , when you make any kind of turn the wall will get shorter in lenth. Thats why your lines wont line up at times.
08-15-2006, 09:56 PM
Chris is right. It is rare that you will not need to use your saw to cut the blocks on a double sided seating wall, what ever the radius. I am building my patio right now out of Mini-Creta Plus Limestone(6" & 3" block). My radius on the one section is 8.5' inside radius. I will be cutting for a while on my seating wall courses to get the smooth radius. I am also taking a chissel to a lot of the factory edges to get a rid of the straight chunks of block.
Also, make sure you are using the top of the block UP and not Down. The upside of the block had a dimple on it. If mix the block upside down, your alignment will be about 1/8"-1/4" off. Also, use the center groove (to go vertical). Don't try and use both grooves for alignment.
08-15-2006, 10:18 PM
Thats what I thought was the right thing to do, this raises another question. do you demo saw cut these block or do you split them. I may not be the most expierienced splitter but it seems like a crap shoot getting a good edge, and forget taking off just an edge. We have a target wet saw and it does not cut block on one pass. With all the water flying it seems not matter what we use to mark cuts the marks are gone before the blade hits the paver/block thus making it difficult to flip the block and make a cut that mates properly with the one on the other side.. What do you guys use to mark cuts?
08-15-2006, 10:40 PM
you definitely need to saw cut the block to get a tight fit. Only split blocks that need to be seen as a finished edge, ie: end of walls, pillars, sides of steps, etc.... You should touch up all cut edges with a masonry hammer or hit it from the side with a hammer/chisel to give a rough edge.
As for marking, maybe try some of those marking crayons..... maybe the waxy texture will not wash off like pencil, soap stone or the like.
I've got a brand new American Brick Saw and cart that I would'nt mind getting rid of for about $3,000.00 (with saw cart) Normally sells for around $3,900. It's got a 20" blade and will cut through any block up to 8" thick in one pass. It can cut wet or dry and has an electric start on the Honda engine
Americutter-20 Block Saw 13.0hpE Honda motor 305 lbs, electric start, Cyclone air filter system, & oil alert. 3900 RPM. Water kit, 8" cut depth, 24" length of cut. 21"x16" conveyor table, 1" blade arbor. 20" blade.
Americutter Components Saw Cart 51"L x 27"W, welded angle iron frame, wire mesh decking. 12" pneumatic casters, 38"L handle. Powder coated finish. Weight capacity 1600 lbs. Supports all saw frames.
08-16-2006, 07:39 AM
We use 14" Partner cut-off saws. It doesn't go all the way through the block, but you can wrap the saw around the block and see the cuts once you flip it over. Our saws cost us about $800 per.
08-18-2006, 07:56 PM
Well we have most of the wall in, very miserable. Entirely too many cuts with a demo saw. I tried to find a rental 20" saw but was out of luck. One piece of info for anyone thinking of using this product, their catalog is not accurate at least the one I have is not accurate, for those familiar with techo products you all know the groove used to bond the block and how each block has angled ends, well there is a vertical piece as well, it has one groove that runs all the way around the block, there is no way to install it without cutting as there are no angled edges to carry the opposing run used to get a straight wall. at least if there is I didn't see it.
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