View Full Version : What to look out for?

J&R Landscaping
08-21-2006, 11:35 PM
Hello all,
I went out last week looking for trucks and I found one I like. Its a 1994 Ford F250 4x4. Its a reg. cab, long bed with a 5.8L (351) and an auto tranny. It has 87k original miles and its only had 3k put on it since feburary when it was inspected.

It has new tires all the way around, and a new exhaust. The interior is in excellent condition. The right rear wheel well has a little bit of rust but other wise the body is in great condition.

When I talked to a salesman on Friday, they told me it was just traded and needed to be run through the shop. The only problems it has is the key is broken in the ignition but the igniton still works enough to start the truck. It started and ran good on Friday (at night). When I came back in on Saturday, it would turn over but it would not crank. It was acting as if the started was locked up. The dealers shop still has to look it over.

The salesman from friday night talked to his sales manager and told me they wanted $3000 for it. Well, come to be they were asking $5995 for it. I told them what the salesman said and they knocked it down to $3k.

The engine oil pan, tranny pan and such are dry with no oil/leak residue present. the valve covers and top of the engine also is dry.

Is there anything I should look out for? Would you buy the truck? I feel I am getting a decent deal since I am getting it for 1/2 price. I still am waiting to drive it and to have my mechanic look it over.

Thanks in advance for any help!

08-21-2006, 11:47 PM
Look out for the whole front axle assembly. Ball joints, tie rod ends, spring and shackle bushings, axle pivot bushing, steering gear. All that stuff can easily exceed $1500 if done in a shop.

08-21-2006, 11:51 PM
Sounds like a pretty good deal, I have a 1993 F-350 with the 5.8 in it with the automatic. I hope that you are not buying this truck to pull something with becasue it does not like to pull very much weight. The truck i have only has 20,000 miles on it and is a crewcab Long bed 2wd. I am not bad mouthing that truck, but i am questioning what you want to do with it. I am a huge ford fan and just want to make sure you are buying the right truck for the right job. The problem with the keyswitch is very simple it could be 2 different things both of them are easy to fix. The price is probably a little low for a 4x4 with low miles. You ask for things to look for, Look at the radiator for corrosion and leaks, and check the tranny fluid for color, smell and metal shavings. Good luck hope this helps.

J&R Landscaping
08-22-2006, 12:07 AM
Right now, I am only pulling a 4x8 open trailer with my 36" WB on it. I plan on getting either a ZTR or a 48 or 52" hydro WB. I plan to be getting a 6x12 open trailer in the fall or next spring.

Do you think that truck will be suited okay for that kind of pulling as I don't think its much. Also, how does the 5.8 do on fuel?

08-22-2006, 12:31 AM
You should be fine puliing that little amount, I was thinking skidloader trailer with a skidloader on it. The gas mileage on ours isn't the best, but employees like to let it run when they just stop for a few minutes, so i don't have a exact figure, i do check our trucks mileage and it is around 14- 16 mpg. (We call it the LIMO because it is so long.) It is used as a landscape crew truck, it hauls a lot of mulch and pea gravel to jobs sites and is also used when we do some tree jobs because it will seat 6 adults and has good cold a/c with a longbed to haul there tools or plants. Get a ford if you want to have a truck that can take the abuse and keep right on going. We have a fleet of 10 ford trucks, and yes we spend money to maintain them but any thing that is worked hard every day will have to have maintance and tires and the occasional major repair.

08-22-2006, 01:16 AM
best thing if your really interested in the truck, is to take it to a shop and have an inspection done, get a compression test as well.

08-22-2006, 05:45 AM
Get it compression tested for sure, make sure it's firing on all cylinders well. I'd say for $3K if everything checks out fine, buy it. If it's what you want and it runs/drives well, no reason not to buy it.

J&R Landscaping
08-22-2006, 05:49 PM
I drove it to my mechanic from the dealers lot today which is about a 45 minute trip each way. So far, I love the way it drives and Runs. I will let you know what my mechanic has to say later tonight!

J&R Landscaping
08-23-2006, 10:32 PM
The truck needed u-joints in the front and rear drive-shaft. Front shocks, a master cylinder, a heater hose and fuel filter.

Needless to say, I bought the truck! Thanks guys for the advice!

08-23-2006, 10:52 PM
That won't be too expensive to fix. Congrats on your purchase. If you can, buy greasable u-joints. They last much longer.

08-23-2006, 11:22 PM
Good luck and lets see some pics:cool2:

J&R Landscaping
08-23-2006, 11:36 PM
I have a camera on order, when it arrives and I get the truck cleaned up, I will post pics.

The truck was just traded and they gave it to me filthy. The bed was full of mulch, grass clippings, and trash. The interior was also full of crap. It needs to be cleaned up inside and out.
I just wish it was a diesel, but I got a good deal on it so I'm not complaining. Now all I need is a plow, and I'm all set!