I think I have a leak day

[londonrain]

Received a call that "I think I have a leak".
Found this slip coupling on the main line.
1/4" in on one end and a bunch of glue inside, I pulled the pipe apart by hand...
I fix more leaks that wet or shine /blue glue is used by a contractor, I hate that stuff..

Plus today I looked at another job with leaks, turned out the Water company increased the pressure in this one part of town to 240+psi , that's right 240+psi . I asked the homeowner to flag the places that he felt there was a leak. From the POC he marked it about every 20ft and I counted 10 flags.:dizzy:

[Dirty Water]

I dislike that dark blue glue as well. We use IPS 725, its a light blue. It bonds much faster than that stuff.

[gusbuster]

Received a call that "I think I have a leak".
Found this slip coupling on the main line.
1/4" in on one end and a bunch of glue inside, I pulled the pipe apart by hand...
I fix more leaks that wet or shine /blue glue is used by a contractor, I hate that stuff..

Plus today I looked at another job with leaks, turned out the Water company increased the pressure in this one part of town to 240+psi , that's right 240+psi . I asked the homeowner to flag the places that he felt there was a leak. From the POC he marked it about every 20ft and I counted 10 flags.:dizzy:

We can argue about glue all we want, but plain and simple, that fitting wasn't done properly. Looks like it was a lazy man job.Looks like a "Hail Mary" reapair job in the first place.


I run into this all the time doing repairs. Main lines without primer being used and improperly cut pipe are the cause of most of the failures I see.

[sheshovel]

I use Hot-Blue glue all the time. The problem here is that the end was not flat and it was glued improperly. Not the glue.

[mdvaden]

Is it just me...

Or does that second image look like it has tons of glue on it, like the person who slipped the joint said to themselves...

"man, this is barely 1/2" into the fitting, so I better gob some glue to hold it together"

[Hank Reardon]

Examples like that make a compelling arguement for free birth control.

[SprinklerGuy]

The squareness (flat....sigh)...of the pipe end is the least of the worries....it looks like it was glued wet...literally....and of course not bottomed out in the socket.....

[PurpHaze]

Received a call that "I think I have a leak". Found this slip coupling on the main line.

Although they might be OK for small pipe we don't use "slip fixes" (or their equivalent) on any pressurized lines. We use compression couplers or Dresser couplings on pressurized lines. Too many pipes in the same trench? We use the 90x4 reroute and/or compression fittings to solve the problem.

1/4" in on one end and a bunch of glue inside, I pulled the pipe apart by hand...

Looks like someone didn't know exactly where to cut the pipe or cut out a section too wide and just let it be with the repair fixture. An extra piece of pipe on this end of the slip fix with either a bell end or coupling would have spanned the bad part of the pipe... IF they'd cut it in the proper places. Key to the whole thing is full extension of the slip fix so the internal O-ring does its job but NOT cutting out too wide of pipe so the glue ends are properly socked into it.

I fix more leaks that wet or shine /blue glue is used by a contractor, I hate that stuff..

Appears to me that technique was the culprit, not the glue. (Although I abhor slow set gray glue.)

[bicmudpuppy]

Water in your glue can cause very similar results. Not using primer or using cleaner instead of primer, same results. I've had trouble this year w/ "hot" glue. Instead of wet/dry "turf-tite" type glue, I picked up a can that was Christie's Hot glue. I found it to be even slower to set than regular medium body glue. It might be great for cold weather work, but it is not for 90+degree weather. Purp........Grey??? OUCH. Flexible glue is a pain. Use turf-tite instead. Its labeled for flex use and sets up much better.


Is the "secret" to installing a slip-fix THAT foreign a concept. We've got a kid training (don't think he's going to make it, I feel an accident w/ an air hose comming up real soon ------- I have to attempt to train him for winterizations) who can't seem to get the concept down either. First, except for a few VERY rare situations, WHY do they make a slip-fix smaller than 1"???? Second, why is every one so blasted lazy they won't dig a little extra to make sure that isn't a 90 six inches away?? Now, colapse the slip-fix you have decided is going to save you so much effort, and make absolutely sure it fits PERFECTLY in the gap you wish to install it. Now, primer everything twice and then apply glue to one side of your repair. Install slip fix to that side. Carry some trash back to your truck, clean up in expectations of a quick getaway..........or whatever. Now, apply glue and extend slip fix until you feel the slip fix bottom out as the pipe bottoms out into the fitting. Fill hole and tamp well. If you can control and prevent full pressure, test your repair. If not, return later or the next day and fully test. If you have a MV, manually open another valve on the system and then test your repair. Turn off MV with the controller, close the manually open zone valve and leave the customer a note not to water until tomorrow..................
WHY is this some bizzare form of higher math no one understands?????

Wow, what a rant! can you believe I've cut out a few slip fixes lately??

[Dirty Water]

I've never had a slipfix fail on me from the gluejoint.

IPS 725 is ready for pressure in 30 seconds. You glue one side, and then glue the other, no trips to the truck needed.

[jerryrwm]

On larger pressure mains - 11/2" up to 3" when installing a slip-fix, always give it a "two cigarette" set time. Gives me a little time to clean up and get ready to cover up the hole.

[londonrain]

I usually never use slipfix couplings on main lines, however two weeks ago on a Friday at 3:30pm I received an emergency call. Big charity party on Saturday with 1500-2000 people and when putting up one of the 17 tents they drove a stake into a 2" main and the yard was flooded plus no water for party. The turf was rising and looked like a huge water bed. The only thing I had in 2" was a 2" slip fix and a coupling. :drinkup:

[Dirty Water]

I've slipfixed countless mains. I think you guys should trust them more.

IPS 725 for 1.25 and smaller, the slower setting blue glue that London dislikes so much for the bigger stuff.

I usually come back the next day and turn the water back on when I use that glue.

[bicmudpuppy]

I've slipfixed countless mains. I think you guys should trust them more.

IPS 725 for 1.25 and smaller, the slower setting blue glue that London dislikes so much for the bigger stuff.

I usually come back the next day and turn the water back on when I use that glue.
It's not the slip fix, its the moron installing it that I don't trust. Leave room for the slip fix to expand and something is going to give. Not the joint at the slip fix, usually the nearest other fiting. A tee or elboe is toast if you've left room for movement.

[SprinklerGuy]

Get the slipfix fully extended..and barring any major catastrophes at the factory that made the slip fix......you have a leak-free connection that will last you long time GI......

[Dirty Water]

Ever notice that the instructions on the FlowSpans say to leave it in midtravel position?

I've seen fully extended ones contract back when the water pressure was relieved.

[SprinklerGuy]

I don't read instructions...never even seen them.

[PurpHaze]

Purp........Grey??? OUCH. Flexible glue is a pain. Use turf-tite instead. Its labeled for flex use and sets up much better.

We use nothing but Plumb Tite wet/dry glue. :)

[Dirty Water]

I don't read instructions...never even seen them.

They are printed on the flowspan :laugh:

[PurpHaze]

They are printed on the flowspan :laugh:

Then we'd have to get our reading glasses out??? :p

[londonrain]

This is the time of the year that 75% of my calls are "I think I have a leak"

On Wednesday I found this 1 1/4" slip fix...

[Dirty Water]

This is the time of the year that 75% of my calls are "I think I have a leak"

On Wednesday I found this 1 1/4" slip fix...

I've seen that too.

Right under where the slipfix says "Keep in Mid-Travel Position", it also says "Hand Tighten Only"

That there, is an example of using channel locks on a slipfix.

On occasion I'll fix a busted slipfix like that by just replacing the female side and reusing the telescopic body...If its the same brand and type, and if I have only half of a slipfix in my truck :D

[PurpHaze]

This is the time of the year that 75% of my calls are "I think I have a leak"

On Wednesday I found this 1 1/4" slip fix...

Seen it a couple of times also like Jon. Not on ones we've installed but where a non-irrigation contractor made the repair and the line was under downwards bending stress due to compaction problems. We replaced them with the ol' 90/90 reroute to take the stress off the different pipe levels.

[PurpHaze]

Found this leak on Wednesday and this one was done by an irrigation contractor who hit a 2" main line spur during installation of a zone. The PVC compression coupler had nothing on its threads, heat builds up during tightening and the end nuts usually cannot be tightened all the way. Then the leak develops later after everything settles. We backed off the nuts, applied Rector Seal to the threads and were then able to completely tighten the thing up. This spur is subject to booster pump pressures so we turned on a zone which activated the booster pump in order to check the repairs and no leaks. :rolleyes:

[Dirty Water]

Thats the major failure I see with compression couplers, usually from the original installer :)

We use a silicon based lubricant, because we've been using it forever, instead of Rector-seal. It works, so I won't change, but I've contemplated trying rectorseal.

[PurpHaze]

We use a silicon based lubricant, because we've been using it forever, instead of Rector-seal. It works, so I won't change, but I've contemplated trying rectorseal.

Doesn't really matter what lubricant you use on the threads as long as it's safe for PVC. There is a BIG difference between using it and NOT using it. Lubricated threads will almost completely tighten by hand and then all you have to do is make the final tightening with Channel Locks or a strap wrench. :)

[bicmudpuppy]

Doesn't really matter what lubricant you use on the threads as long as it's safe for PVC. There is a BIG difference between using it and NOT using it. Lubricated threads will almost completely tighten by hand and then all you have to do is make the final tightening with Channel Locks or a strap wrench. :)
a wrap or two of teflon works about as good! I tend to teflon unions too. Pop always told me only tape the ones you don't want to take apart, cuz if you don't tape 'em, you'll get to come back and have to re-do.

[MannyEdge]

This might sound like dumb question, but how do you know if you have a leak and if so, where is the leak located?

[Dirty Water]

This might sound like dumb question, but how do you know if you have a leak and if so, where is the leak located?

Look for a new pond that you didn't pay to have installed.

Or, a swamp.

Or sometimes a sinkhole.

[londonrain]

This might sound like dumb question, but how do you know if you have a leak and if so, where is the leak located?or in this case the turf was raised about 20" and looked like a huge water bed...:walking:

[PurpHaze]

This might sound like dumb question, but how do you know if you have a leak and if so, where is the leak located?

Look for wet areas; specifically pinpoint where you see water/sand movement. I knew what/where pressure lines were in the area so a quick probe found the line.

[sheshovel]

I don't read instructions...never even seen them.
I think we all know this about you already.:)

[bicmudpuppy]

The "phantom" leak is one of my favorite service calls. The get a big water bill, and the plumber tells them it must be in the irrigation system. (don't ya just LOVE plumbers?) I almost always check the meter first. Does the meter show a leak? Most have a leak detector on them. Next, put a stop watch on the leak detector and figure out how much water is moving. Then turn off the irrigation POC and see if the leak stops. Next turn off the house main (if possible) and see if the leak stops. Now, you have some idea of where the leak is if there is a leak. I've had swamps that were not from the domestic water, and I've had major ($300/month) leaks that never created a wet spot.

[DanaMac]

One lady recently said the same thing..."I have a leak". Well I found one, which was a damaged and seeping diaphragm. But the other wet area was from all the rain run-off and the neighbors overwatering their yard. So without the customer knowing, I shut off the PVB for 4 days and came back. She said there is still a leak, so I told her all the water has been off for 4 days. No way it could be a leak. She still didn't believe me. She paid though!!

[PurpHaze]

I like a good leak mystery. Just this last week we got called out to the new football field system at one of our high schools. The end between the BF and track curve was a swamp and plumbers had been out to investigate because the main domestic line to the whole school and BF is in this area. Their BF was also belching water which added to the problem. They were scratching their heads as to what was causing all the water. Leo and I went out and determined within 20 minutes that a QCV buried 8" underground was the weeper. These QCVs were to have been capped and removed by the irrigation contractor but were an oversight. Ten minutes later we had the thing capped and the irrrigation water back on. :laugh: :laugh:

[Dirty Water]

I had a similar one. Called out for a leak by a LCO on a commercial property.

I found that someone had removed a head and stuck a plug into the heads el, the plug had blown out.

I recapped it properly, and moved on.

While I had it dug up I exposed a drain box that was covered in drainrock, it was totally clogged.

Anyways long story short, the LCO calls back a few weeks later saying I didn't fix it, so I came back out. Dug it back up and ran the zone, no water came from ground, but lots of water ran along the surface of the landscape to this point.

Seems with the drain clogged, its a wet spot anyways. Plus he had a sprayhead zone running for 45 minutes because it was mixed with yard rotors :dizzy:

[PurpHaze]

Tip for newbies: On large wet spots take your shovel and slice into several areas. If the ground underneath is fairly solid you're dealing with surface runoff water from the leak. Look for the mushiest spot and you'll narrow your search. :)