3 hp B&S with gear reduction, leak?

[Jason Rose]

Think I just had one of those "Eureka!" moments...

This is a little 3hp briggs engine on an OLD Ryan aerator. They have the gear reduction deal bolted onto the side of the engine. Engine has always used oil/burned oil, but never to the point of smoking much, runs great. I bought this unit very used and cheap...

Duh, I finally checked the gear box for lube, had to add a lot, was basically dry I guess. Also had changed the oil at the time. Let a guy borrow it the next day and he complained of SMOKE, like a fog, bad... I checked the oil when I got it back and it was WAY over full... WTF??? I had filled it just right with it level, WHY is it over full? Ran it more that season, oil mysteriously never gets low like it used too... This year, add MORE gear lube, oil is fine. Run it on a few lawns oil is way over full again:dizzy:

Finally dawns on me tonight... the gear box and the engine are connected in such a way that if the shaft seal on the engine goes OUT the gear box drains into the engine! :hammerhead: :hammerhead: :hammerhead: Yeah, checked the gear box with a small screwdriver as far as I could stick it in there, DRY. Just filled it a week ago...

Am I screwed here? I don't know how much a new engine would be with the gear reduction on it to replace this one... I KNEW I should have just junked this thing, but noooo, I had to lay out $125.00 for new shafts and bushings this year and I "thought" that's all that was wrong with it other than burning a little oil.

PLUGR is looking better and better... wish the hydro drive model wasn't so insanely expensive!

[Jason Rose]

yeah, I just got a new camera today, I'm not SFL so there are no hotties at my place, so I took a couple pics of my old azz areator! :laugh:

[Jason Rose]

LoL, i'm just wasting bandwidth for this crap... on a saturday night no less :drinkup:

[Restrorob]

The gear reduction box should be a bolt on deal, Just remove the screws going around the case then remove the front half. Then you can get to the four screws inside on the back half to remove it from the engine so you can replace the PTO end crank seal.

That being a IC engine while you have the gearbox off why not throw a set of rings in it too !

[lawnmaniac883]

The gear reduction box should be a bolt on deal, Just remove the screws going around the case then remove the front half. Then you can get to the four screws inside on the back half to remove it from the engine so you can replace the PTO end crank seal.

That being a IC engine while you have the gearbox off why not throw a set of rings in it too !


The mans a damn genius!!! Go to bed rob, its too late for you to be on here :laugh:

[Restrorob]

The mans a damn genius!!! Go to bed rob, its too late for you to be on here :laugh:

I hate tootin my own horn but your right maniac :cool2:

Off to :sleeping: I go :waving:

[Jason Rose]

The mans a damn genius!!! Go to bed rob, its too late for you to be on here :laugh:

That's really the truth! The man really deserves some sort or $$$ for the advise he gives on here! Often times having to research and find specific diagrams and what-not, all for just the sheer fun if it.

Thanks for the advice too :waving: Looks like a little winter project for me... Last 3hp Briggs I "rebuilt" was in high school!

[Restrorob]

Last 3hp Briggs I "rebuilt" was in high school!


Thanks Guy's, Jason you should have no problem performing this repair. Just remember your torque specs; Rod screws 100 in.lbs., crankcase cover 85 in. lbs., head at 140 in.lbs, gear reduction rear case to engine 140 in. lbs. and the front case cover at 85 in. lbs.

Also the gear reduction box takes 30 or 40w engine oil and all gaskets and seals can be purchased from your Briggs dealer, Below is a break-down just to give you a idea how it comes apart. This may not be your exact box because I didn't have your model numbers but will show the basic design.

Have Fun.....