cv18s Kohler

[tal320]

Bought a 1995 Wheel horse 246h cheap. Runs and cuts on full throttle but some smoke.

Did std stuff to get down to one cyliner at 150-180 PSI, other cylinder at 0. Removed valve covers and the appear to function ok. Dont think a valve is stuck. Dead cylinder has piston at top of head but does slide if pushed with screw driver via plug hole. In process of removing engine.

1 - Have not replaced a piston or rings before. Once i have the bottom apart will i need to remove the heads to replace the connector rod, piston or rings?

2 - Do i need to do both cylinders or is the 150-180psi one ok?

Hoping to make the :confused: horse run a long time.

[Restrorob]

Have not replaced a piston or rings before. Once i have the bottom apart will i need to remove the heads to replace the connector rod, piston or rings?


Yes the head must be removed, The piston has to come out the top.
You should go here; http://www.kohlerengines.com/index.jsp and down-load a PDF Service Manual to properly repair this engine.

And I would suggest going ahead and installing new rings in the other cylinder just so they don't go out anytime soon.

Good Luck

[pugs]

1 - Have not replaced a piston or rings before. Once i have the bottom apart will i need to remove the heads to replace the connector rod, piston or rings?

2 - Do i need to do both cylinders or is the 150-180psi one ok?

Hoping to make the :confused: horse run a long time.

1. You will not get the bottom apart without pulling the heads. The pistons will come out the top.

2. I would do both if you want long life. Honestly I would look into a shortblock or new engine.

However depending on when that Kohler was made...Some of the older ones did not have iron liners. They had iron impregnated into the aluminum. These ones cannot be be bored out as much. Even if they could...its borderline wether to just break down and get a new engine. Depends where you live as far as the labor costs go. Here it just doesnt make sense...

[Restrorob]

1. You will not get the bottom apart without pulling the heads.


Am I missing something here ? Care to elaborate pugs ?

[khouse]

are you saying that in the bad cylinder your piston does not move when you turn the engine over?

[tomo]

hello, leak down test?
1/any way"0" compression can be as a result of carbon coming loose when plugs r removed and then lodging under valve.
2/you did a compression test dry type and not accurate enough..
,one cylinder at a time ,remove plug and reinstall back into lead and
earth to engine block.
Crank the engine the same amount of time 4 each cylinder u will hear /feel the compression on comp guage. Prefer screw in type guage.
3/ wet comp test will seal up rings but not valves. Remove guage after dry test and squirt 3or 4 pumps from your oil can into cylinder ,then retest, if comp comes up u have bad rings.
4/ALWAYS CRANK THE ENG THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIMES 4 EACH CYLINDER. ACCURACY!!!!!!!! Greater than 10-15% diff in readings can mean eng problems and nessesitate a repair or o/haul.
5/ rebuild the complete engine both cylinders
tomo

[Restrorob]

are you saying that in the bad cylinder your piston does not move when you turn the engine over?


Thats what I gathered when said he could push the piston down with a screw driver :confused:

[khouse]

tomo - that's what i didn't understand about the post. it seemed like he was saying that the piston only moved when he pushed on it. we know that would be a connecting rod. so i asked him if the piston moved when the crank is rotated. i guess we will see.

[pugs]

Am I missing something here ? Care to elaborate pugs ?

If you want the pistons out...I figured he would want to completely pull it apart. I would consider rods/pistons part of the bottom end.

[Restrorob]

If you want the pistons out...I figured he would want to completely pull it apart. I would consider rods/pistons part of the bottom end.


Gotcha, I looked at it as not being able to remove the crank, cam etc. without removing the heads, pistons and rods, I have replaced a few bent cranks without removing the heads.

[tal320]

Ok, im getting the hang of this forum stuff.

1 - Did compression test dry, didnt know about the oil trick. screw in, not plug type tester.
2 - Engine almost off tractor. Down to PTO pulley, bolted on hard and ran out of time. All other connections off, starter, fuel, fan shroud etc.
3 - OHV covers off and checked apperance of function. ok but who knows.
4 - Downloaded complete rebuild manual today 216 pgs
5 - though cyliders would come off but seems to be one piece.
6 - Piston doesn not move with crank. Does move when pushed on via plug hole with screw dricer.
7 - plan is to take the OHV off and suck the piston out with shop vac to see condition and whats inside. Not sure what happened to connecting rod. Need to see if walls are ok before i go further on rebuild or trash can.
8 - Whats the best lead on a used replacement. Seems to be a good design used in todays commercial making it costly to replace. Didnt find any rebuilt on web.

246h

[Restrorob]

Here are two replacement engine warehouses;

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/

http://acengines.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=index

But always check specs. before ordering, If in doubt call for help for your application.

[khouse]

you really don't want a used one if you can even find one. it would most likely have been taken off for a mechanical reason.

[tal320]

Well race fans. OHV off. Sucked piston out with shop vac. No connecting rod to be found. Looking at crank, it has alum smears on bearing surface but nothing left. No cap/rod in sight. Must be laying in the bottom. Piston sat at top of cylinder while the engine ran.

To late now, goin to take it apart and see whats left od the inside of the case.

[khouse]

that aluminum will polish off the journal with some fine emery cloth then finish it using some 400 grit wet dry sandpaper.

[tal320]

Used Wheel Horse 246-H w/Kohler CV18s

Need to replace connecting rod - Missing/Gone etc.
Removed lower shaft bolt but ca't get the PTO pully/unit to move.
Didnt try to hard as not to break something.
Expect i need to use a pully puller. Expect a key inside with rust.

Any pointers. This has to come off to ge the engine off the frame.

Thanks

[pugs]

What have you tried so far? Alot of times if you thread a bolt in a few threads and then pull down on the pulley while taping the bolt with a hammer it will come loose.

However you may need to take it up a few notches. Maybe one of those pulley protectors and a 2/3 jaw puller. Lots of WD40. May have to get a torch on it and heat it.

Is there an electric clutch or a stacked pulley setup?

[tal320]

electric clutch so no going to heat. I will try a pully puller this weekend. wanted to see if it had a set screw or just a key way.

Go Blue