Any pasture reclamation experts out there?

[Jim@MilkyWay]

I am interested in getting more grass and less weed in my pastures. I don't like herbicides, selective or otherwise, but I am beginning to think I have no choice.
I want to find out who, if any, on the forum deals with pasture grasses and maintenance in general.
I am looking for on-going maintenance and continuous improvement, not instant gratification. I want the most bang for the buck, weather it be time or money investment.
If I get any bites on this post then I will elaborate on my specifics.
If this is the wrong section, then please direct me.

[JB1]

you might want to check with your local co-op as they deal with this daily and could give you a better idea for your area.

[dvmcmrhp52]

If you don't want to use herbicides you need to cut it on a regular basis particularly at this time of year, add lime as prescribed by a soil test and fertilize it according to that same test.
Just doing this will promote grass growth and choke out the weeds to the extent a pasture can be revamped without extensive management.
Overseeding will help as well.

We're about to do this with another 15 acres that needs to produce hay by the end of next year.

[JoeinJasper]

Check with your local county extension office for information and recommendations for your particular situation. This link http://www.ent.uga.edu/pmh/ will give you the information on what is labeled to be used on pastures. You do not have to be licensed to apply non restricted use pesticides on your own agricultural land. Joe

[Jim@MilkyWay]

you might want to check with your local co-op as they deal with this daily and could give you a better idea for your area.Thanks JB1.
I have checked with them before, but not for on-going reclamation. The ground here is steep, terraced and large areas have surface rock. This in addition to milk thistle, cocklebur, stick tights, etc. I usually pick up about ten tractor bucket loads of rock in the winter months (no grass then), and the pastures are all a lot better now than when I bought the place.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

Thanks to you guys who have posted replies.
I'm off to teach at planetarium right now, but I will post responses this weekend. Maybe even tonight, since I am sure we will not have to open the observatory after show as it is cloudy/rainy.

[dvmcmrhp52]

What are you going to be using this pasture for?

[muddstopper]

Soil test, and apply correct amendments. Use a few goats to help with the weed problems. The goats prefer weeds to the grass. Mow or bushog during the dark nites of July, and Aug. this helps control the number of weed seeds that mature. Mow anytime the weeds get higher than the grass. Usually on my pastures, I set the bushhog up real high and just knock the tops out of the weeds the cows didnt eat. I might do that 3 or 4 times a year. You can control the weeds, (sort of), by not letting them develope seed heads. Dont over graze the pastures.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

If you don't want to use herbicides you need to cut it on a regular basis particularly at this time of year, add lime as prescribed by a soil test and fertilize it according to that same test.
Just doing this will promote grass growth and choke out the weeds to the extent a pasture can be revamped without extensive management.
Overseeding will help as well.

We're about to do this with another 15 acres that needs to produce hay by the end of next year.This tract was a chicken farm for some 15yrs. before I bought.
The only time I had it tested, the soil tests said it was in good shape as per the UGA (?) test facility. It has been a while since it was tested so I don't remember for sure, where I sent samples.
I believe the test stated the phosphorous balance may be a tiny bit low, but like I said, it's been a while.
I tried a little experimental 1 acre, (approximate) plot this season, where I plowed up some weeds, some rocks and the high spots, then drug the high spots down into the low spots. It sure cuts easier as it is a lot more even, but I did not get much yield from the 75lbs of tall fescue I broadcast, neither in the new ground, nor the over seed area. I use composted horse manure, raw, as supplement, no NPK.
The _broad_ leaf, invasive weed that is positively incorrigible, is like a wild lettuce that chokes out the grass. Mowing, not bush hogging, keeps it down but it does not seem to mind being cut. The grass is _NOT_ going to win unless I do something different. Have taken enough interest in project to take even the initial step of contacting you guys, because I don't feel I got enough improvement for the effort I put into the experiment. Will continue to research from this forum and county x-service and keep you posted.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

Check with your local county extension office for information and recommendations for your particular situation. This link http://www.ent.uga.edu/pmh/ will give you the information on what is labeled to be used on pastures. You do not have to be licensed to apply non restricted use pesticides on your own agricultural land. JoeThanks for the link.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

What are you going to be using this pasture for?
Sorry I did not reply before now; rough weekend since, after owning probably between 100 and 200 head over some twenty years, we put our first ever horse into a cold, dark hole in the ground. And it wasn't even our horse; it was a leased mini stallion. My goodness gracious, what a gentleman and a beauty he was.
We have a few horses and a few goats. Eight, (I think) real horses, twelve, (I think) minis and ten or so African Pigmy's. Sorry to guess so wildly at the numbers. It is more my job to cut grass than to keep the records for books and worm schedules etc..

[Jim@MilkyWay]

Soil test, and apply correct amendments. Use a few goats to help with the weed problems. The goats prefer weeds to the grass. Mow or bushog during the dark nites of July, and Aug. this helps control the number of weed seeds that mature. Mow anytime the weeds get higher than the grass. Usually on my pastures, I set the bushhog up real high and just knock the tops out of the weeds the cows didnt eat. I might do that 3 or 4 times a year. You can control the weeds, (sort of), by not letting them develope seed heads. Dont over graze the pastures.Goats much prefer my nice cedar trees. The only weed I can tell they really like is honey suckle.
It takes too many pygmy's to effectively control the weed on even my small place. Over grazing usually not a problem except for one thing. The critters, goats and horses, like the clover and other sweet spots. They over graze these areas and don't venture into the weedy areas.
Did not think of bush hogging at night. Is this done because of dew, or sumpin' to do with seeds opening?

[dvmcmrhp52]

Cutting from mid august to mid september will get the best results and is probably the most important time due to the plants getting ready to draw nutrients back to the roots for next season's growth. It will take two to three years of cutting to see a fair result at weed reduction but it does work to an extent.

Do another soil test and ammend accordingly or the grasses will not win this battle.

Keep the horse manure off the pasture unless you are particularly sure that it has been composted effectively enough to kill any worms left over from the horses. Horse manure is a common vehicle for the spread of worms.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

....Do another soil test and ammend accordingly or the grasses will not win this battle.....Thanks for the suggestions; makes sense. How often should one do soil tests? Should I take samples from areas which are problem spots or areas where grass is lush. Don't remember if I gave that any thought when I tested before.

....Keep the horse manure off the pasture unless you are particularly sure that it has been composted effectively enough to kill any worms left over from the horses. Horse manure is a common vehicle for the spread of worms.I am aware that manure harbors grubs, fungus and weed seeds, but the price is right. Will talk to co. agent to see if he has suggestions, though he may not want to talk to me as I bugged them to death when I first moved in.
Think I will call up extension service now.

[dvmcmrhp52]

....Thanks for the suggestions; makes sense. How often should one do soil tests? Should I take samples from areas which are problem spots or areas where grass is lush. Don't remember if I gave that any thought when I tested before.

I am aware that manure harbors grubs, fungus and weed seeds, but the price is right. Will talk to co. agent to see if he has suggestions, though he may not want to talk to me as I bugged them to death when I first moved in.
Think I will call up extension service now.

I was speaking to worms that affect the horses themselves. Deworming is a quarterly regiment to rid them of parasites, those same parasitic worms are still in their manure when passed through their system.

Soil tests should be done once a year until you get it back in shape and learn what it needs on a regular basis.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

I was speaking to worms that affect the horses themselves....Understood.
It is amazing, but a lot of people do not know horse life-spans have been essentially doubled, over the last twenty years by aggressive wormers.
The exception being open range, in which they are not restricted to browsing worm infested grass.

[dvmcmrhp52]

Understood.
It is amazing, but a lot of people do not know horse life-spans have been essentially doubled, over the last twenty years by aggressive wormers.
The exception being open range, in which they are not restricted to browsing worm infested grass.


Ya,wormers have done a lot along with many other improvements.

There are two mares that are 27 and 30 years old give or take a year and still quite active along with a 30 year old gelding who still loves to ride and move.........A twenty something stallion who loves to.............:dancing:

Yes, horses are much better off these days.

[FearThisDeere]

I agree. We had a 34 year old mare that would rather ride than stand. We had to wean her off of it last year at age 35 becuase we just got too worried about her. She is now at a retirement home and still kicking at 36.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

I agree. We had a 34 year old mare that would rather ride than stand. We had to wean her off of it last year at age 35 becuase we just got too worried about her. She is now at a retirement home and still kicking at 36.Congrates.
I thought I was doing good with a 33yr old, come spring, champion palomino mare.
Oh, and I have the co.-X agent scheduled for 3P Friday.

[dvmcmrhp52]

Congrates.
I thought I was doing good with a 33yr old, come spring, champion palomino mare.
Oh, and I have the co.-X agent scheduled for 3P Friday.


The extension agent should get you some good info.
Let us know what he suggests.

[olderthandirt]

Did a pasture reclamation from a neglected weed and sapling infested piece of land approx. 25 acres. To recaim the land used a dozer to clear parts and a bush hog on the rest. I then sprayed the weeds and brush stumps, and plowed everything under. waited for the new growth to start to show and resprayed and turned the soil again. That seem to take care of all the weed problems. I used fescue and alphefa [sp] mix to replant and its looking and producing great. Took less than a yr to have the results we needed and that was with 4 months of not being able to do anything with the area.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

Did a pasture reclamation from a neglected weed and sapling infested piece of land approx. 25 acres. To recaim the land used a dozer to clear parts and a bush hog on the rest. I then sprayed the weeds and brush stumps, and plowed everything under. waited for the new growth to start to show and resprayed and turned the soil again. That seem to take care of all the weed problems. I used fescue and alphefa [sp] mix to replant and its looking and producing great. Took less than a yr to have the results we needed and that was with 4 months of not being able to do anything with the area.Have any of you guys used Bronson fescue?
Is it worth the money?
Nice avatar there dude.

[Jim@MilkyWay]

Actually Mac, the pic of the wolf (?) at bottom of page is what I was referring to in my reply above.
I used to raise, obedience train, and show Alaskan Mals.

[dtally]

I tried a little experimental 1 acre, (approximate) ... but I did not get much yield from the 75lbs of tall Fescue I broadcast...

75lbs of Fescue seed per 1 acre is 1.7 lbs per thousand. Lite seeding requires 4 to 6 lbs per thousand, for a heaver stand the rate would be 8 to 10 lbs. At 4 lbs per 1000 would require 175 lbs.

For natural weed control, try Corn Gluten. The recommended rate for lawns is 20lb per thousand. I would guess that 10 would be good for a pasture.