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View Full Version : Is anyone else having SRM-261T carb problems?


Lawn Enforcement FM
10-05-2006, 11:05 AM
I have a 2006 SRM-261-t. It worked flawlessly till August. It wouldn't start,so I do the basic checks, then take it to the dealer. He calls a week later and I get it back with a brand knew Carb. He said the new design of the carbs make them where they can't be fixed, They must must be replaced. A week later, the same trimmer bogs down when I pull the trigger. Drop it off and guess what, the carb if messed up again. When I pick it up he tells me echo gave him a tough time covering the repair. Ironically, my old SRM 210 works great, not a problem.
Is anyone else having simular problems with echos?

ed2hess
10-05-2006, 08:24 PM
We are running several with high usage and no problem. I haven't been inside the newer carb but they sure look exactly like the ones used for the last couple years. I understand dealer not wanting to repair a carb especially in warranty but I doubt if that means they can't be repaired. Two bad carbs in a row..??

Shady Brook
10-05-2006, 08:35 PM
I had one with about 8 hours on it that would only run on choke. They adjusted it to have it do the same thing. They adjusted it again and imediately it would not run without choke. They then replaced the carb. I am not impressed by Echo anymore.

pjslawncare/landscap
10-05-2006, 09:58 PM
This is the very problem that caused me to go from Echo to Sthil. It seemed like every Echo I owned had carb trouble and I work too hard to deal with that crap.

Howard Roark
10-05-2006, 10:05 PM
Having problems with ours as well. I thought we were good to go with it, but now I'm very doubtfull.

HenryB
10-05-2006, 10:19 PM
Carb trouble is why we don't run Echo's.

traman
10-05-2006, 10:24 PM
no carb problem here ,i only use echo oil and 89 octane gas

ed2hess
10-05-2006, 10:35 PM
no carb problem here ,i only use echo oil and 89 octane gas
We use Echo oil and 89 also...

ed2hess
10-05-2006, 10:37 PM
Having problems with ours as well. I thought we were good to go with it, but now I'm very doubtfull.
Howard.....I am always looking for used Echo units if you give up on them!

WildWest
10-05-2006, 10:55 PM
I have both models as well, the 210 and 261

The cabs on ALL new hand held lawn maint. equip. has to conform to Californicate's emission laws new, that's why you can no longer adjust the air fuel mixture.. the screws aren't there! They adjust them at the factory and that's what you get.

Echo did have a carb problem a while back. I thought it was fixed, but I could be wrong.
If you take the carb apart, you will find a fuel inlet filter. It's a little round screen tucked in a hole and it usually fills with dirt, get the dirt out and the problem usually goes away. The reason it runs with the choke on is because it's fuel starved. By cutting off its air supply, you are evening out the fuel/air ratio and it runs...soon as you turn the choke off, it dies because it's getting way too much air for the amount of fuel it's getting.

Same thing at idle, the butterfly is closed and when you give it throttle all this air get's in, but not enough fuel.

Keep the OUTSIDE of the carb clean (w/ brake wash or carb cleaner), a clean air filter and use a better gas and this wont be such a problem.

p.s. If you haven't removed the screen from the exhaust port, you might want to do that first... that'll bog the engine bigtime if it clogs with carbon!

Howard Roark
10-05-2006, 10:59 PM
Howard.....I am always looking for used Echo units if you give up on them!

Ed,

You'll be the first one I'll call. I'll even deliver!

mowingtowing
10-06-2006, 09:24 AM
i had carb problems with my 261T but i located the mixture screw and fixed the problem. Nothing but power and reliability since adjustments.

CLARK LAWN
10-07-2006, 10:04 PM
I Had A Carb Problem With My 261 Also Took It In To The Dealer They Told Me The Carb Was Full Of Dirt Probably From Bad Fuel.but My 210 And My Blower That Run The Same Fuel And The 210 Probably Gets Used More Run Fine. They Charge Me $30 To Clean The Carb On A Unit That Was Only 2 Months Old.

Envy Lawn Service
10-07-2006, 10:23 PM
How do you get the spark arrestors out of echo stuff?

Do you have to take the muffler apart to get at it?
(21cc)

WildWest
10-07-2006, 10:28 PM
I Had A Carb Problem With My 261 Also Took It In To The Dealer They Told Me The Carb Was Full Of Dirt Probably From Bad Fuel.but My 210 And My Blower That Run The Same Fuel And The 210 Probably Gets Used More Run Fine. They Charge Me $30 To Clean The Carb On A Unit That Was Only 2All I can say is...don't be afraid to take the Months Old.

30 bucks, that sucks!

98% of the problems anyone has with line trimmers, hedgers, edgers, blowers, is debris in the carb!

All I can say is, don't be afraid to take the carb off and take it apart... there is maybe 7-9 parts, including screws and it's as easy as pie! I have corrected SO many problems by taking a carb apart, and just CLEANING it, it's not even funny!

WildWest
10-07-2006, 10:35 PM
How do you get the spark arrestors out of echo stuff?

Do you have to take the muffler apart to get at it?
(21cc)

Well, sorta, you have to remove the grey plactic cover thats over the muffler...then the 2 or 3 screws that are on the exhaust port (if you shine a flashlight right where the exhaust comes out, you can see the screen), that's where the screen is. Toss it!

Envy Lawn Service
10-07-2006, 10:55 PM
Well, sorta, you have to remove the grey plactic cover thats over the muffler...then the 2 or 3 screws that are on the exhaust port (if you shine a flashlight right where the exhaust comes out, you can see the screen), that's where the screen is. Toss it!

Thanks man.... but those screws are so rusty I can even tell what head type they are.
POS...those ain't coming out of there.

Of all places a quality fastener should be used... exhaust is #1 on the list.
Never have understood why most OEM's of everything don't do this.

WildWest
10-07-2006, 11:04 PM
Thanks man.... but those screws are so rusty I can even tell what head type they are.
POS...those ain't coming out of there.

Of all places a quality fastener should be used... exhaust is #1 on the list.
Never have understood why most OEM's of everything don't do this.

Phillips head...if that don't work... a B.F.H. That's the cure to ALL THAT IRRITATES you!




B.F.H = Big FU**ING HAMMER!

Envy Lawn Service
10-07-2006, 11:07 PM
Phillips head...if that don't work... a B.F.H. That's the cure to ALL THAT IRRITATES you!




B.F.H = Big FU**ING HAMMER!

Thanks... that produced a good belly-laugh :laugh:

A much needed one too :laugh:

My wife thinks I'm crazy now for sure though :laughing:

WildWest
10-07-2006, 11:21 PM
Thanks... that produced a good belly-laugh :laugh:

A much needed one too :laugh:

My wife thinks I'm crazy now for sure though :laughing:


:laugh: Glad I could be of assistance! :dizzy:

supercuts
01-16-2008, 05:55 PM
going through old threads, these new carbs are adustable!! there is a small cylinder shaped hole that dead ends on the carb. you either need to drill it until it breaks through or there is a rubber cap you need to pry out. once you do, walla, you adjustment screw is awaiting your commands. it is very small though, you may need to file down your smaller screwdriver to fit in it.

Envy Lawn Service
01-16-2008, 07:25 PM
going through old threads, these new carbs are adustable!! there is a small cylinder shaped hole that dead ends on the carb. you either need to drill it until it breaks through or there is a rubber cap you need to pry out. once you do, walla, you adjustment screw is awaiting your commands. it is very small though, you may need to file down your smaller screwdriver to fit in it.

Yeah, I was told RedMax had them like that too when I was asking about my hedge clippers.

Debating rather I'll do it myself or have it done under warranty this winter.
If it wasn't for the warranty, there would be no debate....

TOOLSHACK
01-16-2008, 07:57 PM
The carb on the SRM-261T is ADJUSTABLE !!! The adjustment screw is hidden under a "limiter cap" that is required by the EPA. The limiter cap is located inside the hole on the top of the carb... where the rotor is (part that swivels when throttle cable is pulled). If you have a GOOD dealer in your area, he should have a service bulletin that shows him (and you) how to adjust the carb. If you run 89 octane and a synthetic oil at the CORRECT mixture, keep your air filter clean, and keep debris from building up on the exterior of the carb.... you shouldn't have any problems or need any adjustments.

Here's the deal... you can thank the fruits and nuts in California for screwing things up! The feds (EPA) then follows suit. They've made emissions standards so tight on outdoor power equipment that they run on a very fine line now. Some companies have found ways to stay 2 stroke and meet emissions standards... others are trying 4 stroke and hybrid technologies (although with varied success). And guess what... it's only gonna get worse in the next few years. Ratcheting gas caps (like on your truck or car) are already on the way... as are non-permeable fuel lines, fuel tanks.... and those plastic gas cans we all like... they may go away soon too. Unfortunately, there's no fighting it...so just accept the change and make sure you do preventitive maintenance and operate your equipment EXACTLY as your operator's manual dictates.

D & J Lawn Care
01-16-2008, 09:17 PM
i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing

ed2hess
01-16-2008, 10:47 PM
i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing

My 2 cents..you probably spent $45 for nothing since the old carb is adjustable and an could be adjusted to fix the bog situation. And those carb are easy to rebuild, kit cost $8.

Stuart Lawn Care Inc.
03-28-2010, 02:36 AM
I do have 5 of these carbs. 2 line trimmers, 2 edgers, 1 pole hedge trimmer, and one of my pb 620 started prblems, quickly straitened that carb. Bought new late 05, then the doubles, early 06. Impressed with power vs weight, and strait shaft and the torque. They got me good in summer 07 ver fustrating. In and out of shop, never got solved. So I just WOT, and choke off/on repetively for literally minutes, if started, otherwise they bog and shut down. When cold, good to go, after 10am did my little trick, it helped. After 2pm was very fustrating, so I alternated them (which helped). Convinced from the shop, the heat in the enclosed trailer in Central Florida, was the problem. Had to work, so I delt with it. I was told there is not an upgrade/adaptions for this style. They're warriors with the strait shaft, and gear head. The heat is back, and I really like them, so not wanting to buy a different make or model. I done toro's and echo's for 12 years now. I'm not a bandwagon person, so I'm looking for a suggestion that may have been overlooked, or even something homemade, since warranty isn't around. If any one has a cure or idea, throw it at me. Feel free for suggestions, with other problems you may have with toro or echo, I have done other tweeks that may be helpful to you. I'm late to this site, just found it today (very helpful/impressed of this site). My email address should be tagged, I'll take in all info, and willing to try and improve this situation.

LwnmwrMan22
03-28-2010, 10:12 AM
Well, sorta, you have to remove the grey plactic cover thats over the muffler...then the 2 or 3 screws that are on the exhaust port (if you shine a flashlight right where the exhaust comes out, you can see the screen), that's where the screen is. Toss it!

Some of the issues can be from the carbon buildup at the exhaust port too.

If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.

Pull your muffler off so you can see the exhaust port all the way to the cylinder.

I used to just throw these trimmers away every year (2-3) because the guys said they would quit working.

Two winters ago I dug into one after reading posts on here.

I found that the biggest problem on ALL of them was the carbon buildup. I scraped the buildup out of the exhaust port, making sure that the piston was all the way up to keep carbon from going into the cylinder.

They ALL ran just like new.

I ended up making a killing on used trimmers that spring, selling each of them for $150 each on CL.

tallimeca
03-28-2010, 12:13 PM
ECHO DON'T MAKE CARBURETORS.........

So when you say you hate Echo, or Redmax or any other brand because they have bad carburetors......you sound like a fool........

They are made by Walbro or Zama for the most part and they have model numbers for the carbs...........which are used by any and all manufacturers!!!!

To add to the post......the 261 model is a C.A.R.B. model.....which is typically sold in california. Being you are in florida.......did you buy it at a dealer?

There was a line of K series carbs on the 260 power heads about 5 years back that had no adjustments. Replacement carbs for those had adjustments. Otherwise, all their carbs on all their products, with exception of some units sold in California......were adjustable.

Maybe the issue is not the carburetor. Everyone is so quick to over look other issues and assume it's carburation and start turning the screws to compensate (usually compromising the engine)......because you have a faulty ignition module, or an seal or gasket leak......


If you have a unit that has constant carb adjusting issues......it's not the carb. Crank case needs to be pressure and vac tested for leaks....... Turning the screws on the carb without using a tach is only going to lead to rich or lean running.....because you CAN NOT adjust it correctly with just your ears.

Good Luck!!!

Stuart Lawn Care Inc.
03-29-2010, 03:24 AM
Appreciate the quick possitive feed back. I spent all weekend working/researching on these carbs. You can tell of my times of posts/quotes , but one weird thing for me was the line trimmer that ran the best, was the one with huge build up in the exhaust port, the rest were no worth messing with. I have been cleaning, changing line, plugs, caps, filter, every thing could think of. I do run without the guard, and exhaust screen since day two. Now since the line is out past where the guard would be, technically it'll bog, so was told to set a little leaner. Tried adjusting by shop labor, in the guarge in the eves, after running, and mid day in the heat. Results are always the same. It just might be a heat thing in FL, all the guys around here have same problems. Now I work by myself, the tools should have plenty of time to cool down the trailer is open when doing other stuff, and have side force vents when going down the round. I'm puzzeled, I am stuck on these models they are warriors, i put the brush blade on and work WOT till they run out of gas, fill up and do it again. Soon as I put it up get to next service location there's the problem. Changed from side rack to hanging them, (carb design it souldn't matter) still no difference. If it was just one carb no biggie but all 5 there's something there. I have done some weird/crazy stuff, no matter what we did with a VW carb on a rail buggy it wouldn't run, I poured comet in there held it WOT until it was about to pop, then ran like a dream for a couple years then got sold. I'm just Puzzled. "Thank You Though" I've ben determined to find a solution.

Stuart Lawn Care Inc.
03-29-2010, 03:36 AM
Some of the issues can be from the carbon buildup at the exhaust port too.

If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.

Pull your muffler off so you can see the exhaust port all the way to the cylinder.

I used to just throw these trimmers away every year (2-3) because the guys said they would quit working.

Two winters ago I dug into one after reading posts on here.

I found that the biggest problem on ALL of them was the carbon buildup. I scraped the buildup out of the exhaust port, making sure that the piston was all the way up to keep carbon from going into the cylinder.

They ALL ran just like new.

I ended up making a killing on used trimmers that spring, selling each of them for $150 each on CL.

New on/how to work this site. It's 2 am but got a reply 1 block up. Did it wrong I guess. Thanks Man

topsites
03-29-2010, 08:21 AM
Strange, I've got a 2003 srm-260s with at least 3 years full-time use to it,
and I don't recall ever replacing the carburetor.

I also find it odd, that story of the "new" carbs was going on back then as well...
Makes me wonder just how long this supposedly "new" design has been around?
But no, to my understanding they can not be adjusted, however this is rarely the problem even on carbs that can be...

Just strange they'd have to replace the carb, twice.
I suspect a faulty coil, which is the LAST thing the dealer wants to replace as to my
understanding they carry a lifetime warranty.

Oh, one more thing: DEMAND your old parts!
Anytime a dealer replaces something, before (or at the time of) dropping your equipment off,
make SURE to tell them, YOU want your old PARTS!
Otherwise they'll tell you they threw it in the garbage, gone...
They're not supposed to, anytime a customer requests old parts they should still have them, but what can you do?

How do I know...
My trimmer sat for 2-3 years not running right, all the while getting dumb looks at the dealership,
in the end it was the coil and I went through a bit of trouble to get them to fix it!
Yeah, now that's on top of it being me who had to figure it out, that trimmer sat in their shop for months on end.

Not saying that's necessarily the problem here, but it could be.

If it runs when it's cold, then starts to bog when it's hot, it's because the exhaust can't escape the engine.

To my understanding when it does that it's usually the coil!

KarambaStar
03-29-2010, 09:31 AM
Strange, I've got a 2003 srm-260s with at least 3 years full-time use to it,
and I don't recall ever replacing the carburetor.

I also find it odd, that story of the "new" carbs was going on back then as well...
Makes me wonder just how long this supposedly "new" design has been around?
But no, to my understanding they can not be adjusted, however this is rarely the problem even on carbs that can be...

Just strange they'd have to replace the carb, twice.
I suspect a faulty coil, which is the LAST thing the dealer wants to replace as to my
understanding they carry a lifetime warranty.

Oh, one more thing: DEMAND your old parts!
Anytime a dealer replaces something, before (or at the time of) dropping your equipment off,
make SURE to tell them, YOU want your old PARTS!
Otherwise they'll tell you they threw it in the garbage, gone...
They're not supposed to, anytime a customer requests old parts they should still have them, but what can you do?

How do I know...
My trimmer sat for 2-3 years not running right, all the while getting dumb looks at the dealership,
in the end it was the coil and I went through a bit of trouble to get them to fix it!
Yeah, now that's on top of it being me who had to figure it out, that trimmer sat in their shop for months on end.

Not saying that's necessarily the problem here, but it could be.



To my understanding when it does that it's usually the coil!

As dealers we sometimes have to submit defective parts to the manufacturer for testing, so we won't always have the old parts around.

GlynnC
03-29-2010, 12:04 PM
Topsites, I use to demand old parts from shop, then it occurred to me that they could be giving me just any old part--maybe from their scrap pile. If a shop is dishonest, there's lots of ways to be dishonest.

Best way is to learn to do most of the work yourself--and I know you do topsites--I'm just talking in general here. Take it in if it's still in warranty--do it yourself if not!!! It doesn't take but a couple of succeses to get you hooked, and to put you ahead dollar wise--and yes, you will have a few goofs along the way!!!

ALC-GregH
03-29-2010, 12:50 PM
I haven't had any carb issues with my Echo equipment. Going on 10 years without touching ANYTHING. Trimmer and blower.

Stuart Lawn Care Inc.
04-03-2010, 03:48 AM
i had the same problem with my 261t and when finally started soon as i hit the throttle it would bog down so i bought a new carb$45 and just put it on myself it doesn't bog but is a pain to start so now it's on my back up weedeater rack and got a shindiwia 260 but my 2# echo 230's start like nothing

Yeah i,m looking for someone nearby me 2.5 hrs away, but you have one of the first sgns. If you had these problems under warr. what was the answer they gave you? I was convinced the heat build up of heat inclosedtrailer messed with the carbs. Well now, i beleive the front side vent to push air (no roof )and in back vent would pull (a two way openeing angled out to push PULL)out is the most effficient ventalation to supposeively help. But what carb did you put on that a pain to start? i see it the ventaltions between runs and gate dropped to mow then do foot work will have enough time to let them cool down. Plenty of time. But still have to alternate the doubles cause wont start or choke open close continuously help till normal running conditions litle embarrassing. I have seen worse. Even tried the new gas, i have to be missing out on something. It all started majorly 07 but mostly when the heat is on you. ECHOS are warriors there has to be something over looked. Any info let me in. We in same enviroment.

Stuart Lawn Care Inc.
04-03-2010, 04:03 AM
im on trial and error, doing each piece a little different to see what works. THANKS if it does good keep u posted

RBatten
05-16-2010, 02:57 PM
I am having a bogging issue with a SRM 230. Starts great, idles great, hit the throttle and it bogs down. Ran great for 2-3 weeks after carb rebuild, ran great half of the day and then started to bog down, as if you turn a switch on.

Here is what has been done so far. I am not a mechanic but handy non the less. This problem has me stumped.

Rebuilt carb twice, once before problem, once after
Changed carb altogether
changed spark plug, and coil
fuel lines and filter, even tried without filter
removed muffler couldn't find screen, ran without muffler

I am lost any help would be appreciated.

GlynnC
05-16-2010, 03:58 PM
I am having a bogging issue with a SRM 230. Starts great, idles great, hit the throttle and it bogs down. Ran great for 2-3 weeks after carb rebuild, ran great half of the day and then started to bog down, as if you turn a switch on.

Here is what has been done so far. I am not a mechanic but handy non the less. This problem has me stumped.

Rebuilt carb twice, once before problem, once after
Changed carb altogether
changed spark plug, and coil
fuel lines and filter, even tried without filter
removed muffler couldn't find screen, ran without muffler

I am lost any help would be appreciated.

What do you mean, "ran without muffler"? If it ran okay without the muffler, either the muffler is carboned up, or the screen is plugged. On the SRM230, the screen is behind a little exhaust deflector plate, held with 2 screws onto the muffler. If not plugged screen, then burn out muffler with propane torch. While muffler is removed, check the exhaust port on the engine--remove carbon deposits. Be careful--I use a popcicle stick for this--screwdriver can scratch a piston or cylinder.

RBatten
05-16-2010, 04:10 PM
I took the muffler completely off. I could see the piston going up and down. It still bogged down when throttled.

ed2hess
05-16-2010, 05:54 PM
You might need to go to the next level.....you need to inspect to see if both crank seals are in place. The one behind the clutch is hard to see but if there is oil coming out you can see it and normally it is the recoil side that comes out. I guess you put new fuel lines and replaced the two gaskets for the carb. If that isn't the problem pull the head and clean out the transfer ports and be sure the rings are free. Put on new head gasket when you put the head back on. And it that doesn't get it then go to the shop and have them do a leak test or do it youself if you have the tools.

Hell on Blades
05-16-2010, 06:00 PM
I have not read the entire thread, but look at the other end of the motor. I had to clean the spark arrestor and that solved the problem.

RBatten
05-16-2010, 06:22 PM
There is no oil under the clutch. When I changed the coil everything under the cover was clean. It it really worth taking the whole thing apart? A new one goes for under 300 bucks. Someone was raving about his Husky 326 that he picked up for 200. I know a gasket is cheap but would the ports go from working fine to not working properly in the span of 10 minutes?

Ran great, turned it off moved to next account and the thing didn't work right. That doesn't sound like clogged ports to me.

DaveyBlue32
11-15-2012, 01:01 AM
I know they don't like 40-1 at all! 50-1 only ... I have a question, I have an old 2100 echo that starts right up and runs great for 1-2 mins. then bogs down and dies...what's up? cleaned the carb out ... do I need a kit?

Doublewide6
11-15-2012, 01:50 PM
[QUOTE=TOOLSHACK;2101852]The carb on the SRM-261T is ADJUSTABLE !!! The adjustment screw is hidden under a "limiter cap" that is required by the EPA. The limiter cap is located inside the hole on the top of the carb... where the rotor is (part that swivels when throttle cable is pulled). If you have a GOOD dealer in your area, he should have a service bulletin that shows him (and you) how to adjust the carb. If you run 89 octane and a synthetic oil at the CORRECT mixture, keep your air filter clean, and keep debris from building up on the exterior of the carb.... you shouldn't have any problems or need any adjustments.

I did not know about this hidden jet screw. I took a look at an old trimmer that was not running due to some carb issues and got it running. Here is a link to a small video I made on how to locate that jet screw. Thanks for posting this info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmbZ5ArpJq0

ed2hess
11-15-2012, 07:43 PM
[QUOTE=TOOLSHACK;2101852]The carb on the SRM-261T is ADJUSTABLE !!! The adjustment screw is hidden under a "limiter cap" that is required by the EPA. The limiter cap is located inside the hole on the top of the carb... where the rotor is (part that swivels when throttle cable is pulled). If you have a GOOD dealer in your area, he should have a service bulletin that shows him (and you) how to adjust the carb. If you run 89 octane and a synthetic oil at the CORRECT mixture, keep your air filter clean, and keep debris from building up on the exterior of the carb.... you shouldn't have any problems or need any adjustments.

I did not know about this hidden jet screw. I took a look at an old trimmer that was not running due to some carb issues and got it running. Here is a link to a small video I made on how to locate that jet screw. Thanks for posting this info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmbZ5ArpJq0

Why don't you go over the repair forum and post this utube video since
many many people are always asking about hidden needle adjustment.

Bumpmaster
11-15-2012, 08:10 PM
Just got my Echo 770 back, had the problem when cold bogging down an shutting off. After the original Carb was cleaned twice an two new plugs replaced an problem was not resolved. Got a new carb seems to be the fix.

DaveyBlue32
11-15-2012, 08:10 PM
[QUOTE=TOOLSHACK;2101852]The carb on the SRM-261T is ADJUSTABLE !!! The adjustment screw is hidden under a "limiter cap" that is required by the EPA. The limiter cap is located inside the hole on the top of the carb... where the rotor is (part that swivels when throttle cable is pulled). If you have a GOOD dealer in your area, he should have a service bulletin that shows him (and you) how to adjust the carb. If you run 89 octane and a synthetic oil at the CORRECT mixture, keep your air filter clean, and keep debris from building up on the exterior of the carb.... you shouldn't have any problems or need any adjustments.

I did not know about this hidden jet screw. I took a look at an old trimmer that was not running due to some carb issues and got it running. Here is a link to a small video I made on how to locate that jet screw. Thanks for posting this info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmbZ5ArpJq0

DaveyBlue32
11-15-2012, 08:16 PM
I'm glad you dudes are on here ... I cleaned my carb ... then rebuilt my carb ... and could not get this echo 2100 to run ... I pulled off the tank breather and now she;s screamin' ..man! I'll check that first next time ...LOL Thanks for the Knowledge! I was at homedepot and found a fuel replacement package ... has all lines and filter and breather and a new cap washer for like $12 bucks ... that's a really good deal ...right?

Doublewide6
11-15-2012, 08:23 PM
[QUOTE=Doublewide6;4583901]

Here is a video I found after I made mine. It shows an excellent way to remove the plug. It was a pain in the ass drilling it out because I did not know how deep to go with out drilling into the screw head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvRR0Vv_iHQ

Ed feel free to copy and paste these video links where ever on this site they should be. I'm happy I could help out.

DaveyBlue32
11-16-2012, 11:11 PM
I found that screw cover ...man I'm gonna need some Bi-Focals... and what did you use a jewelers screw driver or something ... gonna check at the harbor freight for something that small?*trucewhiteflag* LOL:drinkup:

DaveyBlue32
11-16-2012, 11:16 PM
I know they don't like 40-1 at all! 50-1 only ... I have a question, I have an old 2100 echo that starts right up and runs great for 1-2 mins. then bogs down and dies...what's up? cleaned the carb out ... do I need a kit?

I changed the little gas tank breather on my other echo today and it runs much better...I'm going to do it yearly. The Home Depot $12 Fuel system replacement kit has the lines,filter,primer bulb,and cap washer all together...it's handy! Got 3 for the "glovebox" :)