View Full Version : ?? for Toro T-Bar Users
AltaLawnCare
06-12-2001, 12:20 PM
My gear drive 52" toro still has under 100 hours on it, and the brakes seem to grab and cause the inside tire to slide excessively. So far I've been real careful and not tore up any turf, but I have to come to a stop and turn very slowly. - This cuts into the Production!:mad:
Will the brakes brake-in, or is there a special technique to turning one of these monsters? If I adjust the drive belts loose, it helps, but then it doesn't pull very good.
scottb
06-12-2001, 01:28 PM
Only thing I have to say is practice. My dealer suggest going to a parking lot and practice going around a cone.
guntruck
06-12-2001, 02:14 PM
We dont have that problem, ours pulls quite well and you really have to pull back on one side or the other to get the brake to engage. I guess because its so broken in. I would imagine in time once you get some real hours on it the braking wont be so touchy just practice and be careful for now is the best i can tell ya. You can always summons the stoner for some good info on these machines.
edward hedrick
06-12-2001, 09:40 PM
Ihave a 52 Lesco that I put a T bar on. The originalengine was a 17
Kawi elec start. It would slide when brakes were used. I solved the
problem by changing the engine to a 14 hp pull start. I got rid of about 70 lbs. Now it stops when brakes are applied. I looked at a new
style toro 44 roday it was alot heavier than the 44 I had. What engine is on the mower?
lawrence stone
06-12-2001, 09:49 PM
The brakes are not adjusted right. Take it back to the dealer and have him show you how to adjust the brakes.
Also take a look at the operators manual on how to adust the brakes.
Or adjust the rod coming from the brake band and then adjust the
belt tension.
linky
06-12-2001, 10:18 PM
ALTA LAWNCARE
I have the same problem. I turn as carefull as possible but the brakes are just too touchy. The dealer said that they would loosen up-not yet its been three monthes. They are real bad when going down hill and trying to turn. I think i'll take it back to my dealer and have him check it for proper adjustment. I tried practicing going around a cone in a parking lot but i kept cutting up cones, after eleven hours,three tanks of gas,forteen hundred cones and a taco i threw up on my shoe. After all that my brakes still seem too tight.
fjhemmer
06-13-2001, 06:52 AM
The 2001 Toro T-Bar Gear Drive units have a more agressive brake on them. We went from a 5" brake to a 6" brake to accomidate the heavier new design. We have a kit that will be available for the 2001 units in about 2 weeks. It will return the feel of the unit to the previous years feel. Please see your dealer for installation. :blob3:
AltaLawnCare
06-13-2001, 08:11 AM
I was emailed by a rep from toro, about the 6" brakes on 2001 models. I will call my dealer today and see about the 5" brake retrofit.
"Stoner", I was actually adjusting the brakes so loose that the parking brake wouldn't engage ( then tightening them up before trailering it) - But it seemed to make it worse.
I'm very impressed by the help here, and the response from toro -
Big Thanks to all!!
Kent Lawns
06-13-2001, 09:14 AM
STONE,
He has a 2001 model which is totally different than previous years. They're designed POORLY.
We bought 2 new ones for a deal with our other equipment and they just sit in the shop.
We're fabbing a weight kit right now so we can use these things. I'd be very interested in what Toro comes out with for a retro.
It has nothing to do with brake size, it is in the balance of the machine: There is not enough weight in back and the tires just slide when braking.
Obviously the '01 is an eXmark modification and they screwed this one up.
AltaLawnCare
06-13-2001, 10:51 AM
I forgot to state: I have the 14hp Kaw Recoil - This was the configuration recommended, maybe because of the weight factor.
I hope the 5" brake kit (PN 105-4654) will do the trick.
If its the balance of the machine, wonder if a different sulky will help? If I add weight to the machine it will get heavier, but a different sulky will distribute rider weight differently.
I'm using a single wheel velke, and I weigh around 160.
Kent Lawns
06-13-2001, 10:58 AM
Don't waste your time with the brake kit. Won't make any difference, in fact, might even it worse. New Hydro units have the same problem, and it's a balance problem.
When they re-did the machine, they put the deck farther forward to clear the new, larger tires. Then they put more steel on the deck to beef it up, then the put on a larger carrier frame and bigger caster wheels. Then they use V-Twins instead of opposed twin engines which have their weight farther forward.
It all adds up to an unbalanced machine.
Should not have been released as is.
It needs about 150-175lbs. mounted to the back of the engine deck to regain balance and thus make the machine properly controllable.
lawrence stone
06-13-2001, 03:30 PM
Won't a non pivoting two wheel stand on sulky add enough weight for the drive tires to bite down and get it up to speed?
AltaLawnCare
06-14-2001, 01:50 PM
Seems like that weight would make it want to pop wheelies - I climb some pretty steep banks with this thing!
The brake kit won't be available here for about a month. Dealer said bring it in and he would do something to help (not sure what). I'm going to try adding fluid to the tires in the meantime.
Also, it doesn't seem to spin that bad - just slide the tires, so this makes me think the brake reduction may help.
Stone - Any particular sulky in mind? And you mean pivoting wheels rather than trailering type sulky? Thanks again.:confused:
scottb
06-15-2001, 09:34 AM
Come to think of it when I looked at the gear drive unit on Monday of this week I pushed down on the handle bar to check out the weight for curb hopping ablities and it was all I could do to move it. Guess I will wait until this is straightened out. Or until I can buy one so cheap it want matter to me.
Thank's for all the warnings on the other threads.
lawrence stone
06-15-2001, 04:00 PM
Originally posted by AltaLawnCare
Stone - Any particular sulky in mind? And you mean pivoting wheels rather than trailering type sulky? Thanks again.:confused:
Any non-pivoting one will work. You want to always be right behind the machine so the controls are always in front of you.
When you mount the attachment plate to the mower mount it an inch or so to the right so the sulky will have more clearence when trimming on the left side. The reason for this is so you can trim closer and clear more objects with rear of the sulky, like a brick wall or a house with plastic siding.
AltaLawnCare
06-15-2001, 05:11 PM
Thats a very good idea to offset to the right, even just an inch makes a difference when you're against a wall.
I'm going to see what I can do over the next week. When I'm not on the velky, I believe the heavy front end helps the handling, especially on banks and hills.
keifer
11-09-2001, 10:07 PM
I have jungle wheels on mine but the bronco on trimmer traps web site looks cool dont know if they will help your prob or not.
jeffex
11-10-2001, 06:15 AM
Sounds like your technique for t-bar steering is still used to the old broken-in t-bar mowers. I bought a new toro fixed deck 48 this yr and had to change technique from 5 yr old fixed deck 48. Everything is tight on the new mower and you have to ease into the turn whereas on the old one the brakes are worn and seated in and the speed of turning is faster. You shouldn't loosen the belts tension if its the brake tension that is a problem. The simple design controls both braking and belt tensinon on the drive wheels. The bar on the side that comes off the t-bar connects to the belt tension plate. the brake rod is connected to the belt tension plate. Take the mower to the dealer if you are having trouble adjusting balance of the two rods.
jeffex
11-10-2001, 06:29 AM
keep the belt adjustment tight. that is the first rod off the side of the t-bar. that is the one that has a cotter pin . remove pin and spin the adjuster 2 turns clockwise or so the adjuster moves toward the rear of the mower. replace the pin and cotterpin and repeat for other side. Make your changes in equal rotations to each side until you have your mower adjusted. It may take several tries to find the balance of brake and belt tension. I have to change adjustments at least 2 or 3 times based on temp and humidity. Well worth the convience of t-bar. I like being able to drink a beer when I cut my own lawn using one hand to control t-bar. This is not your first t-bar toro right!
AltaLawnCare
11-10-2001, 06:31 AM
Please see:
New Model Toro T-Bar Users (http://lawnsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=21723)
Thanks.
jeffex
11-10-2001, 06:33 AM
good deal !!! love those t-bar toros
AltaLawnCare
11-10-2001, 06:46 AM
I ran one a few years ago. An old 62" w/ 15hp Kohlor. It was well broken in - but handled good. Last spring I decided to buy a new one (increased speed and Kawasaki engine). Dealer told me te brakes would be tight until over 100 hours, but the brakes never loosened up any, and it didn't make any difference how they were adjusted. I started finding out that others were having trouble with the brakes too! Thats when I posted the question here and a rep from toro emailed me about the brakes, I called my dealer and, two months later, I took it in and got the retro fit done.;)
For a belt drive walk, the Toro T-bar is the best way to go.
:cool:
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