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View Full Version : How do you get the blades off of an old Lesco WB??


punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 12:32 AM
I just bought an older 36" Lesco WB. I can't figure out how to get the blades off of it. I did a ton of searches and found that scag w/b's have a similar set up. The lesco has what I believe is a bolt upside down holding the blade on that runs through the spindle to a giant 1 15/16" nut to the pulley to a standard 15/16" nut. Do I have to take the entire assembly apart to get the blade off? Any help would be great!

Raven386
10-25-2006, 12:41 AM
before i got the impact wrench... i took a wrench, and my breaker bar. wrench went underneath and breaker bar on top and just start trying to loosen it.....

Raven386
10-25-2006, 12:49 AM
ok ...you have to loosen the top nut, but you have to put a wrench on the bottom of the bolt. after you get the nut on top of the spindle off. lift the mower up and the whole bolt with the blade should slide out. the spindle stays in place.

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 12:56 AM
I did that, but there is still a large 1 15/16" nut under that holding everything on also. I'll try to get a picture soon.

Raven386
10-25-2006, 01:00 AM
hmm i honestly cant picture it right now.. try and post a pic it'll help quite a bit... how old is older? maybe its a different set-up on that year. but if you get a chance to post pictures, id be able to help a bit more. ill keep an eye out for an update on this post...

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 01:35 AM
Well I had to cut this down 6 times but it eventually fit into the 800x800 pixel limit. Anyway, you can see the way the whole thing is put together. Now I just am not sure how to take the whole thing apart, or if I need to. Hope this helps anyone. I was told the mower is about 8 years old.

topsites
10-25-2006, 01:46 AM
This is how I get the blades off manually on the Toro:

Picture 1 is the bladetools that are used on the bottom, notice the breaker bar.
- The ratchet wrench is 1/2" drive cuz I busted too many 3/8"s this way.
Picture 2 is the adjustable wrench that goes on top.
- If you can, see about wedging the top wrench some kind of way, so it stays in place while you have both hands free (and be careful).

Note: Be VERY careful, the mower in these pictures has the deck supported by a jackstand - It CAN fall off if you don't watch it, but in 5 years I have never had it do that to me, anyway...

http://www.stonypointlawncare.com/images/bladetools.jpg

The bigger the wrench, the better...
Somehow I don't think you can get too big a tool, but I know you can have too small, and it won't come off.

http://www.stonypointlawncare.com/images/9830197maintc.jpg

BMFL79
10-25-2006, 02:09 AM
Topsites, you got that big breaker bar, how much torque is on those spindle nuts? My tiger cub manual says to tighten them to 75. The 1/2 inch ratchet works for me.

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 02:36 AM
I think I'm just gonna start taking stuff apart and figure it out the hard way. The extra large nut in the middle is what will be dificult. I'll have to buy a bigger wrench I guess.

topsites
10-25-2006, 02:39 AM
Topsites, you got that big breaker bar, how much torque is on those spindle nuts? My tiger cub manual says to tighten them to 75. The 1/2 inch ratchet works for me.

Oh I dunno, but I forgot to mention that's just to get them OFF!
I mean, seeing how the thread starter appeared to be having some trouble.

I never used that breaker bar to put them back on, just the ratchet and nice and snug and let'r be, I think they're designed to stay tight anyway but snug 'em up good and that's it (or you'll curse me later lol).

Sometimes you can get them off without the breaker bar, but I use it when I'm done playing around lol

Chop Stuff Up
10-25-2006, 02:58 AM
I think I'm just gonna start taking stuff apart and figure it out the hard way. The extra large nut in the middle is what will be dificult. I'll have to buy a bigger wrench I guess.

The bigger one shouldn't have to be loosened at all. Thats for the spindle, not the blade shaft thingy. Just use a breaker bar up top and a wrench at the bottom, and loosen it at the top. Then blade and blade shaft thingy should pull out from the bottom.

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 03:54 AM
Do I need to take off the part I circled? The top of the bolt looks like it might be threaded through that bolted down circle thing.

Chop Stuff Up
10-25-2006, 04:03 AM
Do I need to take off the part I circled? The top of the bolt looks like it might be threaded through that bolted down circle thing.

nope, you remove those only if you want to remove the pully.

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 04:06 AM
Ok, well I got the top nut off, and the blade is just as solid as ever. Should I try pounding on the top w/a mallet or something to push it down? I'm sure it hasn't been taken off in many months so it might just be really stuck.

Chop Stuff Up
10-25-2006, 04:32 AM
Ok, well I got the top nut off, and the blade is just as solid as ever. Should I try pounding on the top w/a mallet or something to push it down? I'm sure it hasn't been taken off in many months so it might just be really stuck.

It should just slide right out, I don't see why it isn't.

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 04:33 AM
Well I'll work on it later. Thanks for the help clean n green!

surgeon83
10-25-2006, 08:46 AM
Ok, well I got the top nut off, and the blade is just as solid as ever. Should I try pounding on the top w/a mallet or something to push it down? I'm sure it hasn't been taken off in many months so it might just be really stuck.

I suppose that's what you're down to. They could just be rusted in place. The lesco in my signature would be the same age now if I had it- purchased new in 1998, and sure enough, you just unscrew the top nut and the blades should come off. Could try spraying some WD 40 on it before pounding it out, but it won't penetrate the entire blade bold anyway. Good luck

punk_rockin2001
10-25-2006, 10:47 AM
Well this morning I just started pounding away at the bolt and I got it out. It was covered in rust so I have to go get some steel wool. Thanks for all the help!

Mr.Ziffel
10-25-2006, 03:34 PM
I know you didn't ask about this, but it was touched on so I'll follow up. Always use a penetrating oil in this situation. WD40 is ok as an all purpose solution, but I prefer Kroil [great smell] or PB Blaster. Either of those would probably spread right through to the shaft and threads if left overnight and result in less pounding to the top of the shaft [you did use a soft mallet or brass punch so the shaft wasn't deformed didn't you?]

Before you reassemble the shaft with sharp blade, use anti-seize compound on all threads. This is the single most important thing you can do to ensure easier blade changes in the future. I only have to add a little every third or fourth blade change and they always come right off [but stay tight]. Available in any auto or tractor parts store and it's cheap.
Good luck, Will M>

Raven386
10-25-2006, 03:42 PM
next time you should get yourself some fluid film...