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View Full Version : Flatbed advice for a 1500 needed


Accu-cut Lawn Care
11-12-2006, 05:09 PM
I made a boo boo on the bed of my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad cab shortbed...So I have decided to put a flatbed on the back of it. I'll be using it to haul 1 60" or 52" mower plus I'll have racks built to carry blowers and hand equipment.

Question 1: The shortness of my truck has pretty much ruled out a dovetail; so, I'm thinking about 2- 3'5" gates that hinge out into 1- 7' gate. Has anyone made a gate like this themselves or used a manufactured gate system like one from handy ramp?

Question 2: I know that I will need some suspension modification...But I am undecided between in-cab controllable air shocks, in-cab controllable air bag leaf spring helpers, or the big daddy of them all, air bags that replace my entire leaf spring system(these would allow me to lower the back of my truck while unloading and loading,but are very expensive). What have you guys had experience with?

Question 3: I'm undecided as to what to make my floor out of, but am kind of leaning towards heavy guage expanded steel. Again, some advice would be greatly appreciated.

grassmanak
11-12-2006, 05:50 PM
Im not sure how big of help i am, but their are a few companies that make fold up ramps, those who have them say they're great, as far as the weight issue, probably a set of timbrens would work, depends on the weight, but you have to figure the factory bed is quite heavy. I would say make it out of steel with wood inserts, saves weight and money.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
11-13-2006, 09:46 PM
I need suspension information the most.

ashs inc
11-15-2006, 10:13 PM
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=131965

check that guy out. pretty cool truck. has lots of pics too. just keep reading.

I also have been wanting to covert a regular truck to a dove tail type of truck. Most of my yards now require a 48wb in the front and a 36wb in the back because of gates.

I have a long bed 2004 F150. I want to take the bed off and have my welder make a dove tail. Prime Trailers in Texas make a bed that will fit your dodge. call them and ask them to send you pics. http://primetrailers.com/

hosejockey2002
11-16-2006, 09:15 PM
I need suspension information the most.

You may not want to hear this, but it sounds like you are heading down the road of creating a more or less useless truck. Dodge 1500s have light duty rear axles that are not designed for heavy loads. I'm sure there are lots of guys out there who claim they carry a cord of wood or whatever without any problems but I don't buy it. You are talking about installing a flat bed on a shortbed pickup that is not made for one, and installing fancy, expensive suspension upgrades that will only make something else on the truck the weakest link. Do yourself a favor- fix the truck, sell it, and buy a truck that is designed for what you want to use it for. All three brands are good, buy the one you like.

Scag48
11-16-2006, 09:45 PM
Couldn't have said it better, suspenion "boosters" are only going to create a weak link elsewhere in the truck. You're better off getting at least a 3/4 ton, although while you're at it a 1 ton would be best.

ashs inc
11-16-2006, 09:51 PM
so what are you saying about this truck??? wrong direction??? how much do walk behinds weigh??? how much does the stock bed weigh? then look at the gvw. if the truck could handle it it shouldnt be a problem.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
11-18-2006, 10:01 PM
It is not cost effective for me to use a 1 ton truck on my mowing route. I've already tried that with a Chevy 3500...The gas prices were crazy. A 1200 lb ztr is not too heavy for my rear axle to haul around. If i wanted to fix the dent in my bed, I would... But I've always wanted a flatbed. Thanx

brucec32
11-21-2006, 05:26 PM
They're giving you some good advice, you should consider it carefully. I would like to do what you're talking about also, but like they said, the weight factor starts getting in the way.

You will have to factor in the weight of your new flatbed, a ramp for it sturdy enough to handle a 1200 lb mower, the height of the flatbed (which affects the length of ramp need, etc, etc). At about 1500 or 1800 lbs weight carrying capacity on that light duty Ram (a guess) you've got to do the math and see if you can carry enough equipment with it. You can modify it so it won't sag, but even some of those type of products clearly state that they are not recommending that you exceed the load capacity of your vehicle. They just make your load more stable.

The flatbed allows you more space so you can side by side mowers, but it'd have to be 7' wide or more, more like 7.5' to allow parking a 48" ztr and a 36" wb side by side. That affects weight. I have no idea what the original truck bed weighs vs a steel/wood flatbed of that width. What they are saying is that you may well wind up with a truck that can safely carry a ztr and a wb and nothing else. Which may be all you need. TODAY. What about when you want to sell it one day? Instead of having a heavy duty flatbed which is of value to others, you have a light duty frankenstein truck that is not going to bring much. Combine that with the cost of a custom built flatbed and you might well be better off fixing your bed, selling the truck, and buying a HD version to modify.

If you are just looking for something to serve as a ramp for the flatbed, however, this might be what you are looking for. They make a variety of sizes and some are made for use like you're planning. This is just one website selling the safe-t-ramp. Try others.

http://store.rampconnection.com/section.php?xSec=59

I use one sometimes with my Ram (tailgate in place). The ramp supports the weight using the trailer hitch. I've put a Lazer HP in the back of the truck fo weeks at a time. But that and a 21" Fill it up, no other mowers will fit.

Finally, keep in mind that as you raise the equipment up higher (from a trailer to 3' or more off the ground in the truck bed) you need to make sure your vehicle is stable enough to handle it in emergency maneuvers. Airbags and helper springs are a big help, but I'd check with some experts before I put much more than 1,000 lbs or so of mower in the back (plus ramp weight, trimmers, gas, blowers, etc).

If I didn't have to worry about emergency maneuvers, a trailer wouldn't be a problem in the first place.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-15-2006, 12:52 AM
You may not want to hear this, but it sounds like you are heading down the road of creating a more or less useless truck. Dodge 1500s have light duty rear axles that are not designed for heavy loads. I'm sure there are lots of guys out there who claim they carry a cord of wood or whatever without any problems but I don't buy it. You are talking about installing a flat bed on a shortbed pickup that is not made for one, and installing fancy, expensive suspension upgrades that will only make something else on the truck the weakest link. Do yourself a favor- fix the truck, sell it, and buy a truck that is designed for what you want to use it for. All three brands are good, buy the one you like.
To all you naysayers, my flat bed is almost done(less paint) and turned out much beter than expected. I'll have pics soon.

LindblomRJ
12-15-2006, 02:19 AM
To all you naysayers, my flat bed is almost done(less paint) and turned out much beter than expected. I'll have pics soon.
Yeah I really like the one on my 79 ford. Am looking foward to the pictures.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-15-2006, 11:52 AM
The payload cap. of my truck is 1800 lbs. The flatbed is about 100lbs heavier than my original bed. My super z is 1200 lbs...2 blowers and 3 trimmers plus racks are about 100 lbs. What should I do about my rear suspension? Does anyone on here have experience with firestone airbag leaf spring helpers, air shocks, or timbrens??? I really want to get it right the first time. Thank you

LindblomRJ
12-15-2006, 02:00 PM
Don't know about airbags. We had a 68 dodge on the ranch, we just put a bale un roller on it, with the sag we added a couple more leaves to the springs.

Make sure you use tight truck rated tires (TL) and not paggenger rated (P) tires. The softer sidewalls have a tendancy to flex and will make for a scare ride. Keep a close eye on inflation of the tires.

I tend to think of Timbrens for snow plows. No idea who they would work on this application. Unless the quality of the airbag have improved I thend to think the airbags might be futile. However I am not positive.

sunray
12-15-2006, 09:01 PM
Look up Eaton Detriot springs on the computer, don't even mess with air bags and all the other patch work suspension tricks.
I completely replaced the suspension under my 75 Gmc 1 ton,I got everything from these people and it fit like a high dollar glove, better than the factory stuff I took off.
The price was reasonable also and they were great people to deal with.
Air bags can fail you and then you are dead in the water until you can get it somewhere to fix it, but if you put heavier springs on they won't go flat.
You will have a much stouter truck that can physically carry more weight but you still have to pay attention to the fact you still have a half ton rearend, brakes and frame.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-15-2006, 11:31 PM
Look up Eaton Detriot springs on the computer, don't even mess with air bags and all the other patch work suspension tricks.
I completely replaced the suspension under my 75 Gmc 1 ton,I got everything from these people and it fit like a high dollar glove, better than the factory stuff I took off.
The price was reasonable also and they were great people to deal with.
Air bags can fail you and then you are dead in the water until you can get it somewhere to fix it, but if you put heavier springs on they won't go flat.
You will have a much stouter truck that can physically carry more weight but you still have to pay attention to the fact you still have a half ton rearend, brakes and frame.
I was really wanting to do something like airbags so I could have the luxury of matching my spring rate to the load. Sure, with heavier springs I could achieve a great ride with a ztr on the truck; but what happens when I'm empty or hauling a trailer that only has 300 lbs of tongue weight? You are correct about using sense while using the half ton axle-but a 1200 lb ztr falls way short of my payload capacity.

BSDeality
12-16-2006, 12:07 AM
Look into Timbrens for the truck. Most guys use them for the front ends of their plow trucks, but they make them for rears too. They don't affect empty ride, but help out big time when there is a full load.

willretire@40
12-17-2006, 07:50 PM
Do you have any pics yet.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-18-2006, 02:09 AM
I'll have better pics tomorrow. And I'll have a z on there, too.

heather lawn sp
12-18-2006, 05:16 AM
You might want to consider mud flaps for the finnished look.We just used heavy sheet rubber reinforced with fabric weave, and not just straight rubber.
Available at any rubber hose supply company. Bolt right onto the under frame.We did that with our 2000 conversion of our 1996 chevy and now with our 2006 conversion of our 2006 chevy

davidcalhoun
12-18-2006, 09:04 AM
Are you still going to fix the other truck bed?

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-18-2006, 09:57 AM
You might want to consider mud flaps for the finnished look.We just used heavy sheet rubber reinforced with fabric weave, and not just straight rubber.
Available at any rubber hose supply company. Bolt right onto the under frame.We did that with our 2000 conversion of our 1996 chevy and now with our 2006 conversion of our 2006 chevy
I plan on doing the mudflaps after my under deck boxes are installed next week. I'm also going to do something more exravagant with the back bumper and lights. She is still a work in progress. But so far, I'm pleased with the results.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-18-2006, 10:02 AM
Are you still going to fix the other truck bed?
I'm going to hold onto the bed. When it comes time to sell the truck, I'll research if it would be cost effective to fix the old bed-or just sell it with the flatbed.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-18-2006, 07:04 PM
I'l get some more after the boxes are done.

ashs inc
12-18-2006, 10:52 PM
great truck. that is what i want to do. did you make the bed or have it made.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-19-2006, 01:02 AM
[QUOTE=ashs inc]great truck. that is what i want to do. did you make the bed or have it made.[/QUOTE
Thanks. Brad Lane of Fabworks Oem in Athens,Tn made it from the ground up. So far it's doing awesome. My only problem is that the Supersprings(leaf helper) I bought today didn't really get the back end of my truck up as much as I'd like. Does anyone on here know if adding air shocks would give me a couple more inches of rear susp.?

Scag48
12-19-2006, 03:52 AM
Air shocks are expensive, aren't terribly reliable over time, and aren't really the best solution. Get Timbrens, they're actually made for this type of application and will help quite a bit.

BSDeality
12-19-2006, 08:47 AM
I recommended timbrens also. I just ordered 3 sets for my trucks the other day. Front and rear on my Toyota and the rear for my F350. I bought them off Albany Spring in NY via their website (http://www.albanyspring.com/sitedirector/site/index.cfm). You get 10% off each if you buy more 2 or more sets. They also shipped them out same day. You also get free shipping too no matter how many you get

Dallas Turf
12-19-2006, 09:42 AM
Accu-cut,
You might consider having your welder build a full headache rack at the front of your bed to protect the cab and back window, it is only a matter of time until something happens and may protect you in an accident.

Other than that it looks pretty good!

pclawncare
12-19-2006, 09:58 AM
Ya i was about to say something about that because it would suck if you were going about 55 to 60 and for some reason came to an instant stop. I do not think that ztr is going to stop so fast, and i would hate for you to see it inside the cab with you. You may think about at least straping it down to the bed if you dont get a headace rack

LindblomRJ
12-19-2006, 10:10 AM
I would strongly suggest a headache rack. Might be a handy spot to put hand tools that are not used all the time. Also added protection. I think I would also add a box under the deck in front the wheels behind the cab for a tool set and other small items.

I would tie the mower down just like on a trailer.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-19-2006, 09:06 PM
Ya i was about to say something about that because it would suck if you were going about 55 to 60 and for some reason came to an instant stop. I do not think that ztr is going to stop so fast, and i would hate for you to see it inside the cab with you. You may think about at least straping it down to the bed if you dont get a headace rack
I have a locking system for my z that is similar to trimmertraps product.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-19-2006, 09:10 PM
I would strongly suggest a headache rack. Might be a handy spot to put hand tools that are not used all the time. Also added protection. I think I would also add a box under the deck in front the wheels behind the cab for a tool set and other small items.

I would tie the mower down just like on a trailer.
I'm adding boxes to the under side of the bed next week. Also, I don't see any need for a headache rack. IMO they look bad, add costly weight, and hinder rear views, especially while trailering.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-19-2006, 09:15 PM
Air shocks are expensive, aren't terribly reliable over time, and aren't really the best solution. Get Timbrens, they're actually made for this type of application and will help quite a bit.
I really wish I had gotten Timbrens; but I opted to get springmaster leaf helpers. The truck shop accidentally put light duty units on and I'm not impressed with the results. The shop is installing the heavier versions saturday...we'll see how it goes.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-26-2006, 01:34 AM
Oh yeah, Timbrens are out of the question. I checked out their website and found out that they are canadian made! I don't want anything that some canuck invented to be the backbone of my susp.

LindblomRJ
12-26-2006, 03:03 AM
That sounds like a poor reason - made in Canada. Its a lot better than made in China. A lot of plow people use them, like them and have had good luck with them.

heather lawn sp
12-26-2006, 10:18 AM
That sounds like a poor reason - made in Canada. Its a lot better than made in China. A lot of plow people use them, like them and have had good luck with them.

Thank-you kindly

muddstopper
12-26-2006, 11:02 AM
I only looked at the first pic you posted but, You need to make one change to make your bed legal. You have two orange side marker lites on the bed. You should have a red side marker at the rear and not an orange one. Also add the mudflaps and I suggest a headach rack that rises above the backglass at least.

As for suspension. You can buy progressive leaf and coil springs for just about any vehicle. This might be you best and cheapest way out. The progressive springs will help with the heavy loads and still maintain a soft ride when your truck is empty. They are simply bolt-on replacements for the stock springs.

KS_Grasscutter
12-26-2006, 12:18 PM
So what do you do for a trim mower? Doesn't look like there is much room left for one.

BSDeality
12-26-2006, 12:20 PM
Oh yeah, Timbrens are out of the question. I checked out their website and found out that they are canadian made! I don't want anything that some canuck invented to be the backbone of my susp.
:hammerhead: I'd much rather something from Canada than from china or taiwan. Timbrens are a great product. Don't be ignorant

Rons Rightway Lawncare
12-26-2006, 12:31 PM
what a shame to chop up such a nice truck to put that dinky little bed on the back! I would have fixed the orginal bed and sold the truck and bought something longer and stronger to do that conversion....

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-26-2006, 08:30 PM
So what do you do for a trim mower? Doesn't look like there is much room left for one.
I have a commercial account at a fast food chain that takes me 85 miles north and south from my shop. Trim mowers are not needed on these jobs. I also have a 16' trailer that I employ when I need a other mowers to service my ballfields, parks, and homeowners.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-26-2006, 08:34 PM
I only looked at the first pic you posted but, You need to make one change to make your bed legal. You have two orange side marker lites on the bed. You should have a red side marker at the rear and not an orange one. Also add the mudflaps and I suggest a headach rack that rises above the backglass at least.

As for suspension. You can buy progressive leaf and coil springs for just about any vehicle. This might be you best and cheapest way out. The progressive springs will help with the heavy loads and still maintain a soft ride when your truck is empty. They are simply bolt-on replacements for the stock springs.
I have decided to have a headache rack made and plan on installing a whole new light package after it and the under deck boxes are ready....Mudflaps and beefier back bumper, too.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-26-2006, 08:43 PM
what a shame to chop up such a nice truck to put that dinky little bed on the back! I would have fixed the orginal bed and sold the truck and bought something longer and stronger to do that conversion....
It works very well and is by no means dinky. And when you say longer, you are missing the whole point of me doing this bed in the first place. I wanted a truck that would economically haul ONE ztr plus trimmers and blowers. Today I got 17 mpgs hauling my z plus equipment around. Also, some of my homeowner accounts here have very short, steep driveways that I doubt your isuzu would even fit into. I guess you would just have to see it in person to really appreciate it...It really is pretty cool.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
12-26-2006, 08:55 PM
Okay!!! It just looks very small! I myself would not have made one smaller than 12 feet of useable length and I would have gone at least 6 foot wide, or wider.

Before I bought my Isuzu I thought long and hard about doing just what you did. Thought about chopping up and using a long wheelbase van, or longer wheelbase 2500-3500 pickup truck and making one of these. Still think it could be done fairly easily.


Using friends wire welders I have taught myself how to weld. I am not the best, far from the best to be honest.... But I can weld stuff together and I have yet to have anything I have welded fail.

I have built several sets of weedeater racks, a water jug rack, my 16 gallon sprayer rack that bolts to my ZTR, I even built a complete 14x6 foot trailer!!! That trailer was fun, I went to Northern tool and bought the wheels, axles, hubs, fenders, lights, coupler, and then went to the local steel supplier and bought several sticks of angle iron and a long stick of the 2 inch steel for the trailers tongue, and used a chop saw to make the cuts and welded it all in my driveway...Total cost for the entire trailer was about 600$ and this was with a rubber torsion axle and a spare tire!!!

I finally broke down last winter and dropped 400$ on a Clarke wire welder with all the goodies and then another 150$ on a tank of gas for it and a big spool of wire. Now when the mood hits me I can go out to the garage and build whatever I want.

Maybe you should look into picking up your own welder and making your improvements to your rig yourself... you will save money and have fun at the same time.

attached is a pic of that trailer I made.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-26-2006, 09:28 PM
Okay!!! It just looks very small! I myself would not have made one smaller than 12 feet of useable length and I would have gone at least 6 foot wide, or wider.

Before I bought my Isuzu I thought long and hard about doing just what you did. Thought about chopping up and using a long wheelbase van, or longer wheelbase 2500-3500 pickup truck and making one of these. Still think it could be done fairly easily.


Using friends wire welders I have taught myself how to weld. I am not the best, far from the best to be honest.... But I can weld stuff together and I have yet to have anything I have welded fail.

I have built several sets of weedeater racks, a water jug rack, my 16 gallon sprayer rack that bolts to my ZTR, I even built a complete 14x6 foot trailer!!! That trailer was fun, I went to Northern tool and bought the wheels, axles, hubs, fenders, lights, coupler, and then went to the local steel supplier and bought several sticks of angle iron and a long stick of the 2 inch steel for the trailers tongue, and used a chop saw to make the cuts and welded it all in my driveway...Total cost for the entire trailer was about 600$ and this was with a rubber torsion axle and a spare tire!!!

I finally broke down last winter and dropped 400$ on a Clarke wire welder with all the goodies and then another 150$ on a tank of gas for it and a big spool of wire. Now when the mood hits me I can go out to the garage and build whatever I want.

Maybe you should look into picking up your own welder and making your improvements to your rig yourself... you will save money and have fun at the same time.

attached is a pic of that trailer I made.
I do weld myself; but do not have the time to take on projects like this. My fabricator has done a lot of work for me and I'm sure that it would have been a lot more time consuming than anything else. My time is worth money. For instance, how many hours did it take you to make that trailer???+$600 in materials! I got a 16' new dual axle trailer with brakes and a ramp for $900...and it looks a whole lot better and sturdier than what you made(no offense, it's true). For the record, my bed is 78" wide. I didn't intend to haul more than 1 mower on the truck. Also, I have a contract to trim(weedeat) 7 miles worth of guardrails on country, curvy roads ;so, having the racks on my truck will make it very easy to unload and load while doing this.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
12-26-2006, 10:23 PM
I built the trailer from start to finish in 2 days. I did it in the middle of Feb when I had nothing else going on. I know it doesn't look very beefy... I made it to haul a 800 pound aircraft on it and I had to make it where the floor was no more than 12 inches high from the ground, so it is a lowrider trailer!!!

Good luck with your dodge, it looks cool, guess it does the job you need it to do for you.

muddstopper
12-26-2006, 10:50 PM
Have you guys checked the price of steel lately. One 3500lb axle , with brakes and two tires will now cost close to $400. 4in channel is $65 a stick and 2x4tubing is $120 a stick.

I have over $1000 in my new 6 1/2x18 ft tandem axle and I already had the axles and tires. I purchased everything new and did the fab work myself. And I still havent built the ramps.
Ron you got a good trailer for $600 and Accucut, how long has it been since you bought your 16ft trailer. Either you got a extra good deal or you bought it before the prices of steel jumped and do they have another one at that price. I can be in Chattanooga in about 1 1/2 hrs, I'll come and pick it up and make money on it before I get it home.

pclawncare
12-27-2006, 12:06 AM
$900 recently? Because id buy 4 or 5 if they have any more.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
12-27-2006, 01:41 AM
I do have to confess.... I have two neighbors who work for Northern tool and get 20 percent off purchases. Whenever I buy something pricey from Northern I give them the cash and they buy it for me.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-27-2006, 11:48 AM
Have you guys checked the price of steel lately. One 3500lb axle , with brakes and two tires will now cost close to $400. 4in channel is $65 a stick and 2x4tubing is $120 a stick.

I have over $1000 in my new 6 1/2x18 ft tandem axle and I already had the axles and tires. I purchased everything new and did the fab work myself. And I still havent built the ramps.
Ron you got a good trailer for $600 and Accucut, how long has it been since you bought your 16ft trailer. Either you got a extra good deal or you bought it before the prices of steel jumped and do they have another one at that price. I can be in Chattanooga in about 1 1/2 hrs, I'll come and pick it up and make money on it before I get it home.
I bought the trailer in spring. Call choo-choo trailers in Chattanooga,TN. A 16' tandem axle trailer with brakes is 1,110 with tax...angle iron is even cheaper.

ashs inc
12-27-2006, 06:27 PM
man thats an awesome truck. can you post some more pics?

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-27-2006, 08:02 PM
man thats an awesome truck. can you post some more pics?

Thanks! I'll make some better pics tomorrow.

ashs inc
12-28-2006, 07:33 PM
man sounds like some people on here dont like the idea of that small bed. I love it. You run your business the way you want to run your business and you had a problem and found a solution. I think thats awesome. That truck might not work for other people but it looks like it will work for you. Cant wait till you post some pics.

NEIL

muddstopper
12-28-2006, 11:01 PM
I bought the trailer in spring. Call choo-choo trailers in Chattanooga,TN. A 16' tandem axle trailer with brakes is 1,110 with tax...angle iron is even cheaper.

Is that $1100 current pricing? Or what they priced it at back in spring, before the big jump in steel priceing? Is it a 7000lb trailer? Got a number for choo choo. Is that brakes on both axles? If angle is cheaper, what size steel is on the 16ft'er.

I just yesterday bought one set of brakes, hubs and backing plates for one axle only, and 2 fenders and it was over $350. Brakes on both axles would run $450, throw in the cost of Axles and springs, breakaway kit, lights and wireing and tires, I can buy his trailers cheaper that I can buy the parts for one and we aint even talking about the cost of steel yet. Something aint right here. Not doubting what you are saying, just finding it hard to believe. I paid $1100 for a new Hooper 16ft a couple of years ago and thought I got a deal then. Post their phone number, I need to give them a call.

I just built a new 7x18 ft trailer, heres a breakdown on what it cost in materials only.
4inch channel-6 sticks @ $60 total $360
2x2 angle-12 sticks @ $28 total $366
2 in Hitch $25
Breakaway kit $49
Light kit with buckets. $50
2x10 flooring approx $200
misc nuts and bolts, wireing connectors and such. $50
2 each 10" brakes $114
2 each hubs $104
2 66" fenders $70
2each, backs for fenders $26
Safty chains $12
Total of materials = $1426.00

Now if I added 2-3500 lb axles @ $120 each $240
one more set of brakes $218
4 tires and wheels @ $90 each $360
Springs and hangers just a guess @ $100
We are at $2344 and we havent even figured in any labor or welding/cutting supplies. If Choo Choo's trailers are well built, I'll take 5 this week at $1100 and place some more orders next week.

ashs inc
12-30-2006, 01:34 AM
hey man got any more pics??? thanks

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-30-2006, 01:44 AM
hey man got any more pics??? thanks

I promise to get them on here tomorrow.

muddstopper
12-30-2006, 09:57 AM
More pins in my balloon. A friend of mind said he looked at some new tandem trailers just a few weeks ago below Chattannoga next to the Alabama line that where selling for $850. They came with used tires, but still ???? Now I am really wanting to :cry:

I know these folks deal in bulk, but damn what a markup there must be in trailer parts for someone to build and sell a completevtrailer cheaper than I can buy just the axles and brakes.

tnmtn
12-30-2006, 10:36 AM
not sure if this would help or not but i noticed you pull the ztr straight in the flat bed. if the engine is on the rear of the machine would it make a diffrence to pull it in the bed in reverse? just thinking that might help move the weight forward so it could be shared with the front axle better. otherwise looks good and if it works great.
good luck

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-30-2006, 01:13 PM
More pins in my balloon. A friend of mind said he looked at some new tandem trailers just a few weeks ago below Chattannoga next to the Alabama line that where selling for $850. They came with used tires, but still ???? Now I am really wanting to :cry:

I know these folks deal in bulk, but damn what a markup there must be in trailer parts for someone to build and sell a completevtrailer cheaper than I can buy just the axles and brakes.

The trailers I was talking about do include used tires...but you can pay more and get new tires and fancy white spoke wheels. But my mowing and landscape routes are about 500 miles per week...So, I think it is pointless to buy new tires that are just going to pick up nails and shrapnel along the way. Choo Choo trailers sells me replacement used tires mounted on wheels for $20. That price is almost cheaper than patches or plugs. fyi- I just called choo-choo-a 16' tandem tube with gate and brakes is now 1280. 423-842-5060 is their number.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
12-30-2006, 01:17 PM
not sure if this would help or not but i noticed you pull the ztr straight in the flat bed. if the engine is on the rear of the machine would it make a diffrence to pull it in the bed in reverse? just thinking that might help move the weight forward so it could be shared with the front axle better. otherwise looks good and if it works great.
good luck

I have had the same thoughts... Pulling it up backwards would move my cg slightly more in front of the axle. When I have my headache rack installed, I will start doing that.

muddstopper
12-30-2006, 08:49 PM
The trailers I was talking about do include used tires...but you can pay more and get new tires and fancy white spoke wheels. But my mowing and landscape routes are about 500 miles per week...So, I think it is pointless to buy new tires that are just going to pick up nails and shrapnel along the way. Choo Choo trailers sells me replacement used tires mounted on wheels for $20. That price is almost cheaper than patches or plugs. fyi- I just called choo-choo-a 16' tandem tube with gate and brakes is now 1280. 423-842-5060 is their number.


Thanks for the number, I will give them a call next week to get the specs on their trailers. Mean while I am just going to :cry: in my:drinkup:

ashs inc
01-01-2007, 05:13 PM
got any new pics of your dodge with that ztr on it?

Accu-cut Lawn Care
01-08-2007, 02:08 PM
This will make this forum easier for you guys to find

Can-Do Lawn Care
01-20-2007, 09:08 PM
accu-cut,
How much did your factory bed weigh and how much does the 12' flatbed you have now weight? I'm thinking about doing something similar.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
01-21-2007, 02:24 AM
It's actually only 8 ft long. I'm not sure about exact weights; but I'd guess that my new bed is 300 or so pounds heavier.

grassyfras
10-11-2007, 04:28 PM
Accu

I really like that. How much did that set you back? If I ever get back in the biz I would do that.