Starting a brand new lawn...

[drmax]

Hello. I'll have a new house finished this May '07. My house is situated on a virgin wooded area, complete with all type of the weeds, vines, etc that grows in the mid Indiana area. There will be a part of the 3 acres plot that I will leave natural. What I need to know is, how to tackle the preparation for new lawn? I have a new conquest lawn/garden tractor, so if it is recommended I need an attachment to make this easier, then I'm listening.
There are a few very large trees I've left standing, so there will be 50/50 sun and shade. Not really too sure what to put down to kill any berry vines or any type woodsey type weeds. Wasn't sure but if all of this should be tilled and then rolled, then seeded.

By builder will be putting down some type of grass seed towards the end of the project. I'm leaning towards something mixed in with a fine fescu.

Thank you for any direction on my upcomming project.
DM

[The Rookie]

Sounds like a mixture of turf type fescue Falcon iv 50%, Creeping red fescue 30%, and Kentucky bluegrass 20% would be a good all around mixture for sun and shade. I used this mixture in my yard and I am still enjoying a pretty dark green yard this Christmas.

[drmax]

Sounds like a mixture of turf type fescue Falcon iv 50%, Creeping red fescue 30%, and Kentucky bluegrass 20% would be a good all around mixture for sun and shade. I used this mixture in my yard and I am still enjoying a pretty dark green yard this Christmas.
Just wanted the smaller fine fescue for it's thickness. I hate the type of fescue that looks like clumps of crab grass.
Do you have a take on my main question of my post? Thx

[muddstopper]

May is going to be tuff getting a cool season lawn established. Are you installing irrigation. I suggest that you get your soil sampled now and start working in the required amendments so that you are ready come May for the seed. Are they bringing in topsoil. If so, have it tested as well. Rototil the topsoil and existing soil to a depth of 6 inches, remove any large stones , rake smooth and then seed. Keep soi moist until the seed germinates and then start watering less frequently and more deeply. be careful trying to add to much high nitrogen fertilizers or you will endup with fungus problems. If fungus problems do appear, treat immediantly with a good fungicide. If you wait until the fungal patches are large, you will probably endup reseeding the entire lawn. Use slow release forms of nitrogen fertilizer and pay close attention to your watering schedules to reduce the chance of fungus.

[rider]

this time of year nothing will kill the vines, till it deep. rake the dirt out, seed. than roll. as for seed type, the tall fescue such as Compact or Transition blend will probably do well, not the thick bladed "weed " tall fescue you are thinking of. You could also try a blue/ rye mix , need four hours direct sunlight to grow, Premium Athletic is a good mix. You should have a Lesco near you, they can help you out.

oh yeah, starter fertilizer is very important, and you will need to feed the heck out of it the first couple of years

[The Rookie]

A good soil to seed contact is one of the most important things in the germination process. The grass seeds I listed are finer bladed. They also mix good with bluegrass and make a thick lush year round turf. Mudstopper is real good with soils and ph. I have never dove that deep into growing a yard from scratch but it would help tremendously amending your soil now and getting a head start on seeding. Fall seeding is better but if you go ahead amend your soil, adjusting ph level, now, you should be able to start you yard this spring.

[drmax]

Hello. Lots of good stuff here. Thank you all. I don't own a tiller and around
1K or better for one for a 36" unit for the back of the mower. I may go ahead and get this attachment. Have not decided. I probably will not be able to afford top soil halled in. There is presently some clay in this ground.
I will get a sample of soil off to someone to analyze.

So would you all agree that the best way to get going would be to till up this ground?

Also, there will not be inground irrigation.

[The Rookie]

I would say you could till it up or this. Buy a pull behind core aerator at lowes or somewhere. It will cost under 300 dollars. Find around 100 lbs to put in the tray. Core aerator the entire area as many different directions you can imagine. There is no such thing as aerating too much. Spread the seed on the newly aerated area. Go over area a couple of more times with the aerator. Then apply more seed. I would do this in late February or early March.

[drmax]

I would say you could till it up or this. Buy a pull behind core aerator at lowes or somewhere. It will cost under 300 dollars. Find around 100 lbs to put in the tray. Core aerator the entire area as many different directions you can imagine. There is no such thing as aerating too much. Spread the seed on the newly aerated area. Go over area a couple of more times with the aerator. Then apply more seed. I would do this in late February or early March.
Aerator would be cheaper and used every year. I won't be able to do anything to the area until May or so. Is this too late to mess with this year?
The builder is required to put down seed when he's finished. Hopefully this won't be a waste of seed and money. I'll do some more research as I closer to the finish of construction. Thx

[muddstopper]

You dont have to buy a tiller, Rent One. Get your soil tested now. Post the results and you will get help with the proper amendments and amounts to add. Once you have the information needed, apply all the amendments and rent the tiller and till it into the soil before applying any seed. If you get the soil nutrient levels in their proper ranges, you wont need the areator either. No use planting a lawn knowing you are going to have to redo it. The only attachment you might need to buy for your tractor is a broadcast spreader to use to apply the amendments and seed, and for future fertilizations or topdressings.

I can almost guarantee that your building contracor isnot going to do a soil test or add the proper amounts of nutrients before he seeds your lawn. my guess is he will use a contractor mix of seed, usually fescue and rye, ( which you will probably endup killing off with roundup) and maybe some fertilizer, and he will apply this to the top of soil that has been leveled and compacted with a skidsteer, farm tractor or other heavy piece of equipment and the results are going to be less than desireable. You can let him level the area if you want to, but then you really need to apply the correct soil amendments and rototill them into the soil, to a depth of at least 6 inches, before applying any seed. Its like the Fram oil filter commercials, Pay a little now or a lot later. You are the one that is going to benefit from doing it right the first time.

[drmax]

You dont have to buy a tiller, Rent One. Get your soil tested now. Post the results and you will get help with the proper amendments and amounts to add. Once you have the information needed, apply all the amendments and rent the tiller and till it into the soil before applying any seed. If you get the soil nutrient levels in their proper ranges, you wont need the areator either. No use planting a lawn knowing you are going to have to redo it. The only attachment you might need to buy for your tractor is a broadcast spreader to use to apply the amendments and seed, and for future fertilizations or topdressings.

I can almost guarantee that your building contracor isnot going to do a soil test or add the proper amounts of nutrients before he seeds your lawn. my guess is he will use a contractor mix of seed, usually fescue and rye, ( which you will probably endup killing off with roundup) and maybe some fertilizer, and he will apply this to the top of soil that has been leveled and compacted with a skidsteer, farm tractor or other heavy piece of equipment and the results are going to be less than desireable. You can let him level the area if you want to, but then you really need to apply the correct soil amendments and rototill them into the soil, to a depth of at least 6 inches, before applying any seed. Its like the Fram oil filter commercials, Pay a little now or a lot later. You are the one that is going to benefit from doing it right the first time.
Sounds like a plan. I'll go out and get a few samples and take them in for a check and then post results here. My builder is easy to work with. I can get the allowance for this procedure and go get what I want, and even put the stuff down. I'll have to find a place that rents a machine capable of knocking this out quickly. Is there a specific rental machine that can till and then seed?

[muddstopper]

My not beng from your area, I certainly have little knowledge as to what kind of equipment rentals are available to you. You said you had a tractor, does your rental stores rent 3pt tillers to hook to the back of it. If your builder has something to grade with, then the tiller and one of those push type broadcast seeders is all you really need. A good rental store should have both. Or, Pay someone that has the proper equipment to do the work for you, this is still cheaper than buying equipment and attachments you wont need after the lawn is planted. You can supervise and run the hand rakes.
I bet if you look at the rental centers and ask them a few questions, they can point you toward the proper equipment you need to do your lawn. They do make equiment that can prep and seed all in one pass, but this type of equipment is expensive to own and operate. Depending on your rental store, they might or might not have something like this available.

[drmax]

My not beng from your area, I certainly have little knowledge as to what kind of equipment rentals are available to you. You said you had a tractor, does your rental stores rent 3pt tillers to hook to the back of it. If your builder has something to grade with, then the tiller and one of those push type broadcast seeders is all you really need. A good rental store should have both. Or, Pay someone that has the proper equipment to do the work for you, this is still cheaper than buying equipment and attachments you wont need after the lawn is planted. You can supervise and run the hand rakes.
I bet if you look at the rental centers and ask them a few questions, they can point you toward the proper equipment you need to do your lawn. They do make equiment that can prep and seed all in one pass, but this type of equipment is expensive to own and operate. Depending on your rental store, they might or might not have something like this available.
Yes, I'll find someone with a tiller or rent something. My tractor is a conquest simplicity...more of a lawn tractor. This would work with the correct attachemnt. I'll find some more heavy duty. Thx for the help. I'll post back with soil results in the near future. DM

[timturf]

Muddstopper is giving great advice!

How large is the area you are going to seed?

How much time do you have to take care of your lawn?

What kind of lawn do you expect?

Can you properly take care of the lawn?

Is it going to get alot of traffic? children playing?

I prefer to add organic matter instead of topsoil, and till in at least 4" deep, with 6 being better

Get a soil test now..... logan labs in ohio is great....pm me for more advice if you desire...from N Ill, spent 5 yrs in danville, Ill

[drmax]

Muddstopper is giving great advice!

How large is the area you are going to seed?

How much time do you have to take care of your lawn?

What kind of lawn do you expect?

Can you properly take care of the lawn?

Is it going to get alot of traffic? children playing?

I prefer to add organic matter instead of topsoil, and till in at least 4" deep, with 6 being better

Get a soil test now..... logan labs in ohio is great....pm me for more advice if you desire...from N Ill, spent 5 yrs in danville, Ill

Perhaps total 1/2 acre of lawn, it and around trees.

Weekends and after work. after i get this going, just the usual fertilizing, watering when needed, overseeding, etc....the norm.

I expect it to be whatever I put into it. I am dedicated, but will not spend every waking moment messing with it. A thick carpet type lawn is what I'd like.

Yes I can properly take care of the lawn.

Not a tremendous amount of foot traffic. 2 little kids playing.

I'll probably will not afford to add truck loads of any type of additive. I'll have to make due with what is their.

I will keep in touch with you. BTW, this is in Martinsville IN.
Thank you.

[WildRidge]

Welcome to the forum drmax!

If are looking for someone to just prep your yard so you can seed let me know. I am just north of you off of 37.

- Joe

[drmax]

Welcome to the forum drmax!

If are looking for someone to just prep your yard so you can seed let me know. I am just north of you off of 37.

- Joe
Hey, this may sound good. When I have enough posts I'll PM you my email. Now, I need to find a place locally to get my soil tested.

[WildRidge]

Ask a mod to give you permission to pm. As soon as your allowed to pm I will give you my email and phone number and also a name of a place in indy where you can send your soil samples to.

- Joe

[drmax]

Ask a mod to give you permission to pm. As soon as your allowed to pm I will give you my email and phone number and also a name of a place in indy where you can send your soil samples to.

- Joe

Hi. I'm not new to forums, however I can't even find a way to click on a mod's name to be able to send them a message. Hmm. I'll hunt around. Thx

[fall46]

Muddstopper is giving great advice!

Get a soil test now..... logan labs in ohio is great....pm me for more advice if you desire...from N Ill, spent 5 yrs in danville, Ill

Tim knows what he is talking about. Getting the soil test is the first and most important thing you can do. Without it, its like trying to build a house without a blue print. Posting the results here will get the proper advice.

[muddstopper]

[QUOTE=drmax;1656518]Perhaps total 1/2 acre of lawn, it and around trees.

I'll probably will not afford to add truck loads of any type of additive. I'll have to make due with what is their.

QUOTE]

I think once your get your soil test results back, you will see that adding the amendments needed, isnt going to cost all that much. In my area, for 1/2 acre, the amendments would cost $100 +/-. Its not in how much you use, it is in adding the correct materials. When applicators are treating your lawn, they have to charge for materials, transporting those materials, the equipment for appling the materials, as well as the labor insurance, and license fees, and they have to make a profit to stay in business, so it wouldnt be unreasonable to see someone charge you three times the cost or more of the material. Even then, you would be talking around $300+/-, cheap for getting it done right and considering you wouldnt have to buy any equipment to do it yourself. You can use the same sort of idealogy to apply to doing the prepwork and applying the seed and straw. Yes you can rent the equipment and do it yourself, but if you factor in the total cost of the materials and rental fees, not to mention your time, you can still probably hire the work done cheaper or as cheap as you can do it yourself.

[drmax]

[QUOTE=drmax;1656518]Perhaps total 1/2 acre of lawn, it and around trees.

I'll probably will not afford to add truck loads of any type of additive. I'll have to make due with what is their.

QUOTE]

I think once your get your soil test results back, you will see that adding the amendments needed, isnt going to cost all that much. In my area, for 1/2 acre, the amendments would cost $100 +/-. Its not in how much you use, it is in adding the correct materials. When applicators are treating your lawn, they have to charge for materials, transporting those materials, the equipment for appling the materials, as well as the labor insurance, and license fees, and they have to make a profit to stay in business, so it wouldnt be unreasonable to see someone charge you three times the cost or more of the material. Even then, you would be talking around $300+/-, cheap for getting it done right and considering you wouldnt have to buy any equipment to do it yourself. You can use the same sort of idealogy to apply to doing the prepwork and applying the seed and straw. Yes you can rent the equipment and do it yourself, but if you factor in the total cost of the materials and rental fees, not to mention your time, you can still probably hire the work done cheaper or as cheap as you can do it yourself.
Ah, the other side of the coin. I will look at this. I was referring more to the possibility of trucking in top soil. It simply depends on what I want to put into it, and what I get out of it. Happy New Years...

[drmax]

Ask a mod to give you permission to pm. As soon as your allowed to pm I will give you my email and phone number and also a name of a place in indy where you can send your soil samples to.

- Joe
I had to use the "contact button" at bottom of screen and email whoever it would be, to allow me to PM. Hopefully it will work. Some forums, you click on the persons name and you're able to send an email, which I can not, here.
DM