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carcrz
01-04-2007, 08:24 AM
The mower in need:
1997 Walker MTGHS
20 Hp Kohler

I'm finally going to get around to working on it again. I got busy & kept putting it off.

I have a few things that need to be addressed. I thought they might be beneficial for everyone to read.

1 Changing the original blower to new updated one. I have noticed that this past year, it seemed as though it was leaving more leaves on the ground than usual. Don't know if this is the cause or not though.

2 adjusting/checking the switches. Currently, the ignition switch must be bypassed to start. Still has the warning "ping" w/ the key, just no turn-over @ all. I have been jumping the solenoid to start it.

3 Blade Timing is off - gear box or other? On the last bagging of the year, One of the blades made contact w/ the other one. It sheared the pins & spun the blade right off, leaving it on the ground right behind me. I got a new nut & washers today so I'm going to see if I maybe just hit something in the leaves or if the timing is actually off. I talked to the parts guy & he thought that if it wasn't me hitting something, it is probably not the gears, but the shaft was just worn. Anyone have a part # or a good source?


Let me know what you think.

Jory

thecrankshaft
01-04-2007, 10:40 AM
(2) Could be a problem with the starter solenoid. What do you mean by "I have been jumping the solenoid to start it."? What exactly are you doing? It is common for corrosion to inhibit current to pass through the solenoid with these starters.

carcrz
01-04-2007, 04:49 PM
When looking & the starter solenoid, I am jumping across the two points (top & bottom on the front/left side of the solenoid) to create ignition. I had a friend show me this trick a long time ago & it has got me by so far w/ no problems, knock on wood.

ericg
01-04-2007, 07:33 PM
I had a similar problem just recenly and I found that the starter relay was defective. The starter relay is located behind the instrument panel. It is about a one inch by one inch plastic assembly. My machine has three of these relays behind the instrument panel tied together by a single screw to the instrument panel. The relay that you are looking ofr has two yellow wires and one black and one red wire attched to it. To prove if the relay is defective, pull the plug from the relay. Run a jumper wire from the red top wire to the yellow bottom wire to see if the starter engages. If this works, the relay is no good. If this does not work, there is an open in the yellow wire from the instrument panel harness to the wiring harness.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 09:26 PM
What do you mean by updated blower?

carcrz
01-04-2007, 09:38 PM
There is a newer blower that has a hardened case & is supposed to be much better.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 09:52 PM
Yes, the hardened case and impeller should last longer. However, it should not work any better simply because it is hardened.

carcrz
01-04-2007, 10:00 PM
Do the new walkers have bigger blowers? I know I have heard something about changes to them & how they work a lot better.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 10:37 PM
Yes, the MT and MD have a new blower design. Slightly larger, faster spinning, with replaceable vanes on the impeller so that the entire blower would not have to be replaced. I have a model C and intend to find out if it is adaptable to it. Walker says need 20 hp to run the new design blower.

carcrz
01-04-2007, 10:51 PM
Good deal - I have a 20hp Kohler.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 10:54 PM
If you price one, let me know what they are wanting for the upgrade kit with the blower.

carcrz
01-04-2007, 11:05 PM
I found one from Preco Distributors - #W6542-15 LONGER LASTING CASE HARDENED BLOWER ASSY $314.00
Then there is - BLOWER WHEEL 10" #W6545 - $73.00. Not sure what the larger wheel is & if it even works w/ the listed blower.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 11:11 PM
Yes, that is the hardened blower that has been around for many years as an option. The NEW blower is completely different and has a retrofit kit available to adapt to the older Walkers.

lucforce
01-04-2007, 11:15 PM
7542-9 is the kit for MT mowers

lubricity
01-05-2007, 05:46 AM
Yes these do a great job. I had an employee suck up a Crafsman 1/2 inch drive wrachet. It did not get through the impeller tho. They do some great sucking. Good luk replacing it. It will take you about 3 hours.

lubricity
01-05-2007, 05:49 AM
For item number three. Take the covers off the three little gearboxes. I think you are going to find they are dry and the gears are extremely worn. If so PM me. I have a couple new ones laying around.

lawrencekohlerwalker
02-05-2007, 06:53 PM
look at red wire w fuse at starter...it powers up the start relay...terminal corrossion were that red wire plugs in 2 relay....and of course check fsc sw. and pto sw. closeing properly pto sw. pin sticks alot

gene gls
02-05-2007, 09:52 PM
If you price one, let me know what they are wanting for the upgrade kit with the blower.

Around $ 550.00 installed....

tomo
02-05-2007, 11:25 PM
hello, starting issue ,ignition switches have been an issue 4 walker .There was an upgrade offered . To put it simply dirt water all go inside the switch ==toast. The main charging current also goes thru the ignition switch ,as a result of the contacts being very small ==toast
solution speak to your automotive electrician [u will need wiring diagram 4 your model and year]
1/ fit push button start switch water proof
2/fit seperate water proof toggle switch for the ignition /ignition kill
3/fit relay to carry charge current curcuit
have done items above and years later no issues

seperate topics
str mtr when was it last serviced
are u getting atleast 9.5 volts to small wire on str mtr while cranking
install a seperate earth [-]batt to position close to str mtr
is your machine an early unit [they had no start relay]

tomo:waving:

carcrz
02-06-2007, 06:58 AM
I haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Too freakin cold here lately. The vin # is 29517. so I'm not sure if that is an early model or not. Tomo, that sounds like a pretty good idea. I guess since all of these mowers have a universal key, what's the point in even having one.

gene gls
02-06-2007, 08:12 AM
I haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Too freakin cold here lately. The vin # is 29517. so I'm not sure if that is an early model or not. Tomo, that sounds like a pretty good idea. I guess since all of these mowers have a universal key, what's the point in even having one.

Replacement key switches do not have a universal key...

tomo
02-06-2007, 05:14 PM
hello, as mentioned by another poster the keys r not universal . If u chose to carry out changes beaware that any body can start machine . This is ok if u transport and store it securely.

G/box on deck assuming it is the peerless brand [alloy cutter heads]
Check how the gold coloured blade adapter fits onto the shaft [attempt this with a new adapter and it will show up the wear on the shaft ]
Compare how the adapters new and the old fit on the shaft .
In my experience every 1--2yrs i strip the g/boxes and have the shafts repaired
Worn out shafts and adapters allow the blades to rotate to the point where they can collide
tomo:waving:

Willofalltrades
02-09-2007, 12:30 AM
Yes, the MT and MD have a new blower design. Slightly larger, faster spinning, with replaceable vanes on the impeller so that the entire blower would not have to be replaced. I have a model C and intend to find out if it is adaptable to it. Walker says need 20 hp to run the new design blower.

Yea, thats why the MC is a 20hp for 2007 and has that blower... Can't you just Plop a 20Hp in that bad johnson when your 18 goes? I mean aren't they the same motor just one has more HP?

lucforce
02-09-2007, 07:28 PM
No, The Model MC's only recently recieved the Kohler Command engine. The previous version had the 16 then 18hp OHC design engine. I have the 18.
I have never tried to bolt the Command design in place of the ohc. However that is exactly what will happen to my machine, eventually.

carcrz
02-14-2007, 10:10 PM
On the spindles, is there a way to just change out the part that you bolt the cups to? I am thinking that I may have hit something & rounded it just enough to let one spin too far. Just a thought. I haven't been able to work on it yet because of the crummy weather.

lucforce
02-14-2007, 11:38 PM
Yes, you can get those "cups" for a few dollars.

carcrz
02-15-2007, 08:03 AM
not the cup itself, but the part the bolt threads into. I think I remember seeing a knick in that part.

lubricity
02-15-2007, 08:13 AM
Are you talking about the part the blade bolts into?

carcrz
02-15-2007, 08:40 AM
yes. Not the blade, not the cup, but the part the bolt goes in to. You know how it has that squared off edges on it? If I remember correctly I think the one on the passenger side had a knick in it so the squared-off edge was actually slightly rounded.

I just happened to think of that being the cause, don't know if that's the case though. Hopefully this snow will get out of here so I can start working on it again soon. I really don't want to be forced to take it to the dealer if the season jumps on me too fast.

mcambrose
02-18-2007, 01:26 PM
If I understand you, you are talking about the threaded shaft that the blade bolt screws on to. Yes you can buy that part, but I would guess it is fairly high if you buy it new. I would go to a local walker dealer and ask to buy it used. Any shop which has been reparing Walker's a while should have that part used. You will have to disassemble the gearbox to replace it. No big deal if you've done it before. If you are a newbie at it, I suggest watching someone else do it. You will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the gearbox and a seal between the gearbox and the tube which connects the two gearboxes. I have purchased used gearbox parts from the following email address.JSSTAMPSANDMORE@aol.com Originally I purchased a seat cover from him for my Walker Mower through Ebay. I have also purchased some gears for my deck gearbox directly from him. I think his name is John.

lubricity
02-19-2007, 05:49 AM
I'm going to remind you to take the covers off the gearboxes first. See if there is oil in them and the gears are not worn out. An easy check and you need to do it anyway for a service. If they develop a leak, which they do sometimes. The gears wear out, causing this.

carcrz
02-19-2007, 09:20 AM
60* all week long. Hopefully I'll get to work on it again.