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ChadsLawn
01-12-2007, 03:39 PM
Hey bud can you help me out here. Im going to take the key switch out (cuts off all the time) and I want to use just a on/off switch. I already have a push button starter switch. So I want to eliminate the key switch all together.
heres a picture of the wiring to the switch. Am I able to use a on/off switch? Heavy duty of course marine type.

http://www.chadslawn.us/images/igswitch.jpg

Restrorob
01-12-2007, 06:15 PM
What engine we talking about here ? Model and serial please !

ChadsLawn
01-12-2007, 09:19 PM
Kees 52 ZTMax. Model# ZK52220 Kohler CH22

fixer67
01-12-2007, 10:03 PM
This is not a good ideal. If the ignition is battery powered then it has to be switched. The charging system will have to be switched. The fuel solenoid if it has one will have to be switched. You will end up with a dash board that looks like something from a 747. And if you forget to set all the switches you will kill the battery over and over from leaving something on or run the battery dead from trying to start it and not turing something on. Why not just find out why it keeps cutting off like maybe a bad safty swithc? You may wished you had not done this. Time will tell.

ChadsLawn
01-12-2007, 10:21 PM
Its the ignition switch. Because if I keep the key turned like im tryin to start it, it satys running. But as soon as I let go, it shuts off. Last time I bought a key switch, it cost me almost $30. Dont see spending that much for a $5 switch.

But if its gonna take that many switches, Ill stick to the regular switch.

ChadsLawn
01-12-2007, 10:51 PM
If nothing how bout a part number for the switch.. Please......

fixer67
01-12-2007, 11:20 PM
Its the ignition switch. Because if I keep the key turned like im tryin to start it, it satys running. But as soon as I let go, it shuts off. Last time I bought a key switch, it cost me almost $30. Dont see spending that much for a $5 switch.

But if its gonna take that many switches, Ill stick to the regular switch.

I do not have a wiring diagram for that unit but from the sound of it you have lost the ACC circuit. That runs things like fuel solenoids and battery ignitions. When you start the motor you get power to the starter. On most Kohler engines the power is pulled from the start circuit when starting then drop back to the ACC circuit when running. If this unit does not use a starter relay and you run the starter solenoid though the switch you will fry switches often. The solenoid that is mounted on top of the starter used on the Kohler engines of this type pull about 30 amps and the standard key switch is not made to handle that much power. Look at the carb, you will see a red wire that plugs into the fuel solenoid. That wire is loosing power when you let off the switch. If your engine uses a SAM (Spark Advance Module) that looks like a little black box mounted on one side beside the valve cover then it too gets it's power off the same red wire. When you are letting off the switch and the starter is dropping out then you are losing both fuel and spark (on SAM type engines). Check the red wire for power when starting and then when the key is in the run position. If you are losing power there then the only switch you may need is to run power to that red wire when it is running. To kill the engine just kill the power to the red wire. The wiring harness to this type of Kohler engine has gave me a lot of trouble in the past so check the harness plug. That may be where you are loosing power at. Good luck and have fun.
PS=The voltage rectifier regulator also gets it power from the purple wire at the wire harness plug. At the plug you will see a purple wire and a red wire tied together at the engine side of the plug. This is where you test for power in the run mode. This is also where you tie you switch in if you go that route and for go the key switch.

fixer67
01-12-2007, 11:28 PM
If nothing how bout a part number for the switch.. Please......

Remove the key switch and take a picture of the terminal side of the switch. Just by looking at how the terminal path is laid out more than a few people here can tell you the after market Rotary number you will need.

Like the picture below

ChadsLawn
01-12-2007, 11:36 PM
Thanks, Ill take it out tomorrow and compare it to the image you posted. Plus Ill goto the site and look.. Thanks

fixer67
01-12-2007, 11:53 PM
Thanks, Ill take it out tomorrow and compare it to the image you posted. Plus Ill goto the site and look.. Thanks

That image was just to show you what you need to show us here. There are a lot of these switches and every one will have a differant patten on the bottom side. That one I posted is just the first one I came to. The chances of yours being THAT one are very very low.

ChadsLawn
01-13-2007, 12:21 AM
Yeah thats the only 1 they show.. Heres a part number I found. PRIME LINE 7-01909
I took it out and did some more searching.
6pin
http://www.m-and-d.com/MDS/images/items/430-770C.jpg

thecrankshaft
01-17-2007, 12:51 PM
You may have a bad diode in the wiring harness. This engine has spark advance, and a fuel shut down solenoid, both fed by red wires. The starter solenoid has a blue wire connected to it, and there is a violet wire that goes to the rectifier-regulator (charging wire).

In start, the blue and red wires are tied together, but in the run position the red and violet wires are tied together. The red wires have a common point, but split into two to feed the SAM box and the fuel shut down solenoid. Just upstream of the common point, diodes are used so that voltage is not fed to the starter solenoid in the run position.

The diodes are located in the wiring harness on the engine and can be replaced using Kohler PN 25 755 31-S. You may also be able to find a suitable replacement at an electronics store (5 amp 800 piv rated diode). Make sure you have the anode and cathode in the right location (don't put the diode in backwards).

This is confusing. Let me know if you have any other questions.