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boppersims
01-14-2007, 10:46 PM
Does anyone else besides me use synthetic oils in there mowers engine?

Bopper

wriken
01-14-2007, 11:39 PM
I do, walmart supertech 5-30

02DURAMAX
01-15-2007, 12:01 AM
I use Mobile 1 10w-30 on all my mowers....i have never used any other oil on them..

DAV Mowers
01-15-2007, 12:53 AM
I started to go with Moble 1 BUT I read my owners manual.

It turns out the only synthetic oil I can use in my motor is Castrol. Moble 1 does not meet the warranty requirments of my motors. So check your owners manuals and match them up with the right synthetic oil.

02DURAMAX
01-15-2007, 07:12 AM
DAV Mowers,...I don't know but all my mowers are out of warranty....&&What motors do you have??

jkingrph
01-15-2007, 08:48 AM
Mobil I 10-30 in my engines. Castrol synth 20-50 in hydros on my Scag Wildcat.

carcrz
01-15-2007, 08:52 AM
Mobil 1 in everything.

DAV Mowers
01-15-2007, 09:29 AM
Look in the owners manual and it will show you the "API certification mark and API service symbol" . That is also on the oil bottle.

By checking that I found out Moble 1 does not meet the requirments for any of my motors since all require "SJ". Of the synthetic oils the only one I could find that met it was Castrol.

carcrz
01-15-2007, 09:47 AM
I checked Mobil's site. Here's the specs:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_10W-30.asp

lwcmattlifter
01-15-2007, 10:39 AM
I use regular HD oil. I don't do extended oil change intervals so synthetic isn't worth it to me.

Flex-Deck
01-15-2007, 11:12 AM
I use Valvoline "Synthetic made specifically for Cummins Diesels" in my Truck and diesel mowers.
I use Valvoline "Synthetic" in my 15 Kaw. and 18 Kohler - Just upgraded to the 18 Kohler on my extra deck. The 15 Kohler that was on it had 2500 hrs. and purrs like a kitten - sold it to a neighbor who is going to put it on a log splitter. That engine had the oil changed every 200 hrs. with the synthetic, and still uses no oil for the entire 200 hrs. I never had to add to it for the last 5 years.
The new 18 Kohler which I got from Small Engine Warehouse in Oklahoma was $780, and I put Synthetic blend in it off the git go, and will swith to full synthetic after 50 hrs.

Let-it-mow!
01-16-2007, 10:52 PM
There are several types of synthetic oil.

The ones used in combustion engines offer two advantages:

1) They do a better job of keeping contaminants in suspension than petroleum based oils. This means they can usually go longer without needing an oil change. Petroleum oil does not wear out. In a combustion engine, it just gets contaminated so bad that the contaminants can start to cause wear. If there was a way to completely prevent the products of combusiton from getting into the oil, we'd never need to change oil. Since synthetics can manage contaminants better, it needs changing less often.

2) Some synthetics can handle higher temperatures without becoming damaged. The hydro-carbon molecules in petroleum based oils can "crack" at very high temperatures and form varnish and coke (hard chunks) that will do engine damage. However, temperatures this high just don't happen inside an engine. Oil can "crack" in the flame of an oil furnace and form coke, but not in an engine.

Unless you are 1) not changing your oil frequently enough, and 2) running an engine way beyond it's design temperature (I mean way, way beyond); Then Synthetics offer no advantage.

Stick with your manufacturer's instructions. You (and I) don't know more about lubrication theory than the engineers that write the lube specs for you.

thecrankshaft
01-17-2007, 01:39 PM
The new 18 Kohler which I got from Small Engine Warehouse in Oklahoma was $780, and I put Synthetic blend in it off the git go, and will swith to full synthetic after 50 hrs.

Bad idea. I have seen Kohlers that never break in with regular oil, and if so it may require closer to 75-100 hours. I would not recommend even using a synthetic that is blended with standard oil until you are sure that the engine is broken in. The rings are very hard. Kohler recommends at least 50 hours of run time before switching to synthetic.

lubricity
01-23-2007, 06:09 AM
Yes Crankshaft you are right. But 10 hours on regular oil before switching is fine. I have seen motors use oil their entire life because of using "too good of an oil" during break in. Sounds stupid. But it was one of my customers.
And I highly recommend NOT using motor oil in the Hydros. Remember motor oil is engineered to suck up moisture. Unlike good hydraulic oils are made to shed water.
Water + Hydraulic = BAD POOPY

khouse
01-23-2007, 09:11 AM
Amsoil products here since 1979

lubricity
01-23-2007, 11:03 AM
Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil, DOESN'T MATTER. A good oil is a good oil. A cheap oil is a cheap oil.

Jim@MilkyWay
01-23-2007, 07:53 PM
Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil, DOESN'T MATTER. A good oil is a good oil. A cheap oil is a cheap oil.Amen Brother.
Same can be said 'bout a bad motor.
If you gots one that is going to "let go" with fresh, pure petroleum, then it will likely let go even with the best suited full synthetic.
Well guys, it is getting close to that time. Time to start putting the equipment in shape for up-coming season.
Sorry I haven't been contributing of late.
Will stay in touch as of now, well almost. No time to chat tonight,,, soooo.....:walking:

DJL50
01-24-2007, 12:19 AM
Not going to say what you should or should not use but I used Valvoline SAE30 petroleum base oil is a 17 HP Kawasaki for around 17-18 years and that engine never needed worked on in all that time. This was home use 2 1/2 acres.

lawnboy dan
01-24-2007, 09:46 AM
i had trouble with lifter noise in my koler on my z during hot summer months. i put in mobil 1 and no more noise

jkingrph
01-24-2007, 09:39 PM
Yes Crankshaft you are right. But 10 hours on regular oil before switching is fine. I have seen motors use oil their entire life because of using "too good of an oil" during break in. Sounds stupid. But it was one of my customers.
And I highly recommend NOT using motor oil in the Hydros. Remember motor oil is engineered to suck up moisture. Unlike good hydraulic oils are made to shed water.
Water + Hydraulic = BAD POOPY

Strange, my Scag specifies 20w50"motor oil"!!!!

Jim@MilkyWay
01-25-2007, 01:02 PM
Strange, my Scag specifies 20w50"motor oil"!!!!
Point being,,,? Are you suggesting other lubes do not fit the definition of "motor oil"?
The engine supplier would probably rather you use a mix of water, sand and cement for lube to assure engine replacement ASAP. Not likely they will suggest ways to extend engine life.

jkingrph
01-25-2007, 02:05 PM
Point being,,,? Are you suggesting other lubes do not fit the definition of "motor oil"?
The engine supplier would probably rather you use a mix of water, sand and cement for lube to assure engine replacement ASAP. Not likely they will suggest ways to extend engine life.

I should have been more specific. Scag specifies the heavier 20w50 motor oil for hydros. I have a 7year old JD hydrostatic lawn tractor that uses 10w30 synthetic in the tranny.I have had no problems with it at all, there is no drain provision so it is basically using the original oil. I have tried to siphon, suck out and replace but only can get a small part and it looks like new.

I am going to go with a good grade of whatever the manufacturer reccomends to maintain warrenty. That approach has also given me good service and longivety of equipment.

Jef

Total.Lawn.Care
01-25-2007, 04:13 PM
There are two reasons to use synthetic motor oils that I can see.

1. Superior product that is engineered with uniform properties, there by making it a more conistient lubricant than conventional petroleum based motor oils, and this makes them more resistant to heat and thermal breakdown, thereby providing better lubrication.

2. As stated before, synthetic motor oils hold wear particles in suspension better than petroleum oils (due to the reasons memtioned above) adn with the right filtration to remove these particles, provide longer life of the oil, thereby saving money in the long run my having longer drain intervals, or less oil changes.

The reason the Auto/Engine industry is continuing to recommend 3000 mile oil changes is to keep thier own service departments and places like Jiffy Lube in business with repeat customers every 3,000 miles.

Even with conventional oils, European Auto Makers (for autos sold in Europe) are recommending 12,000-15,000 miles oil changes even on petroleum based oil.

I use synthetic in my trucks, and next changes, it is going in my mowers. I feel it is better in them and I sleep better at night knowing I am using the best to protect my investments.

Jim@MilkyWay
01-26-2007, 12:19 AM
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-1.htm
I have read this neat little 9 page summary on the importance of good oil and the best filters. I just wish I could somehow find out how good the quality control on both those items is. especially the filter. For all I know, the filters submitted for testing could be exceptional. Do you guys think the particle size trapped is consistent and does it change as the filter is used? Does the filter medium vary, depending on where/ when it is manufactured?

lucforce
01-26-2007, 12:42 AM
What? When was the last time the Auto Industry recommended 3000 miles oil changes for their engines?

jkingrph
01-26-2007, 08:51 AM
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-1.htm
I have read this neat little 9 page summary on the importance of good oil and the best filters. I just wish I could somehow find out how good the quality control on both those items is. especially the filter. For all I know, the filters submitted for testing could be exceptional. Do you guys think the particle size trapped is consistent and does it change as the filter is used? Does the filter medium vary, depending on where/ when it is manufactured?

I bought a Ford diesel a few years ago, and installed an oilgard bypass filter.
The first time I had it back to dealer for oil change the mechanic was amazed at the thick black goo it had removed from circulating oil. He was sold on idea. I think it removes particles down to around 1 micron comlpared to 15 microns for stock filter. Don't know why they do not install one from factory(cost) although transmission comes with factory standard bypass filter, element looks like a small roll of toilet paper.

khouse
01-26-2007, 10:59 AM
Auto manufactures didn't come up with the 3,000 mile change. The fast lube companies did. The auto service departments push the 3,000 mile oil change to get you in and up sell you. I have been telling people to read the owners manual on oil changes. You will find that it's usually around 7500 to 12,000 miles. I know people that if they have 3001 miles on their oil they freek out. It's been pounded in our heads for almost 30 years. There is a lot of the higher end cars that come from the factory with synthetic oil now. They recommend changes in the 20,000 mile plus range like Mercedes. I run Amsoil and change my oil at 25,000 miles or 1 year. I usually have to add 1 quart after about 6 months. This is normal for any car. The fact is that engines have to use some oil to work properly (some more than others because of wear). Now if you have an engine that burns a lot of oil then no way should you use synthetic oil for the price of it. I also have been running the Amsoil 2 stroke oil mixed at 80 to 1 since 1979 with not one failure. There are a lot of full synthetic oils out there. It's just my opionion.

J&R Landscaping
01-26-2007, 06:56 PM
I run just standard SAE 30. I am old school in that I change the oil every 30 hours just to be safe. I change the oil filter every oil change as well. Preventitive maintnence is cheap, new engines are expensive. JMO

ffemt1271
02-13-2007, 07:19 PM
i use pennzoil 100% synthetis after the first oil change/break in. i watch for the advanced auto parts sale flyer and can get them buy 1 get 1 free so it costs the same as regular oil.

DiyDave
02-13-2007, 08:04 PM
I use Amsoil 10w40 in all air cooled engines, change it 1x a year whether it needs it or not. Use 15w45 in the diesels, change filters as manual says. The switch to Amsoil in the Isuzu NPR made it gain 1 mile per gallon on fuel economy- sure beats a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

Bill Kapaun
02-14-2007, 06:23 AM
Look in the owners manual and it will show you the "API certification mark and API service symbol" . That is also on the oil bottle.

By checking that I found out Moble 1 does not meet the requirments for any of my motors since all require "SJ". Of the synthetic oils the only one I could find that met it was Castrol.

SJ certified oil was current from 1997-2001. (Sure it doesn't say SJ or better?)
As different certifications come out, they almost always cover the previous certifications. See link-

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/API.html

When I bought my Honda Masters walk behind 18-19 years ago, they specified 20W-40 or 20W-50 for "hot" weather. When they discontinued that model 1-2 years ago, it was 10W-30. Oil technology has made leaps in even the last few years.

Ga.GrassCutter
02-14-2007, 07:03 PM
How often do you guys change your oil ? I use 10-40 in every thing, I change it every 80 hrs.

ffemt1271
02-15-2007, 07:18 PM
i still change mine at 50 hours oil and filter. it's just too cheap not to.

razor1
02-17-2007, 10:17 AM
Sorry about the cut & paste but,
Read the whole article at...............
http://bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/seals.shtml

"So, to wrap up. Petroleum oils can screw up your seals and gaskets and then fill the holes with gunk and deposits to cover their tracks. Synthetic oils come in and begin to clean up the place. Once it's clean, the holes might be exposed (if there were any) and the oil begins to leak. After a while (no way to know how long) the synthetic may be able to help the seals and gaskets regain their composure and stop the leaks
One very important point to keep in mind is that if 100 cars were put in front of you (all older vehicles lubricated with petroleum oil), the switch to synthetic would probably cause less than five or 10 of them to leak. The odds are definitely in your favor."

lakesregionscapes
02-19-2007, 02:13 PM
We run two commercial Handa walkbehind units with snowblower attachments. Our replacement Honda engines all came with the manadate to use synthetic oil only to maintain warranty (13 and 18hp). One upside we found is MUCH easier starts in below freezing tempertures: both are pull-start... We don't even bother to disengage the hydros on the older machines any more which was an aboslute must with cold petroleum oil - it was just far too stiff to start. New unit didn't even come with the disengage lever - now we know why.