PDA

View Full Version : help!! carb adjustments


A.D Services
01-15-2007, 03:00 PM
hey i have a old toro snowblower i am fixing up i got it running but i cant get the idle screws in the carburetor set to ide without stalling. it is a Toro S-200 electric start model with the 2stroke tecumseh motor could someone help me with carb settings i would look in the manule but i got it out of the trash

Restrorob
01-15-2007, 04:03 PM
Put it back in the trash !!!.... JK, Most low speed adjusters are closed then opened one turn for initial starting then fine tuned from there. You may have a problem (trash) in the low speed circuit in that carb. have you had the carb. apart ?

mojob
01-15-2007, 04:04 PM
I'd try turning them all the way in and then backing them out a couple of turns to start. Just don't turn them in too tight or you'll damage the needle and seat. If there are two screws, one is for the low rpm adjust and the other is for the high rpm adjust. The engine could just be worn out too. Another thing to check would be the exhaust port and muffler to see if it's clogged. Hope that helps.

JDWalkbehind
01-15-2007, 04:05 PM
my friend mitch and my grandpa has one there are pretty nice for how old they are. Take the whole carb out and take it apart don't worry they are small. put it in some parts cleaner and make sure it's all clean. ask DreamCut LawnCare (mitch) he know's better than i do since he's got one.

dutch1
01-15-2007, 04:14 PM
I am assuming you have two adjustment screws since you did say screws. Close both screws snugly and then open both 1 to 1 1/4 turns. Check to see where they are at now as yourun them closed. If you can get it started with the new setting, hold the throttle down to idle position and adjust idle screw to best running condition, then let it open up and adjust the high speed screw to best running condition.

If you picked it up out of the trash, I would check the compression to make sure that it is adequate then install a new needle and seat as well as diagphram kit. It's entirely possible if it has sat for some time the diagphram is hard and will not pump fuel properly.

Diagphram kit 630978 It's been a while but I think these #'s are
n&s 630932A correct.

Before you spend a lot of money on the S-200, keep in mind that outside of paddles, scraper and engine parts a great deal of other parts are obsolete and what may be available is high priced due to the number of units surviving.

This is one of Toro's worst efforts at a snow blower, in my opinion, and one that I absolutely hated to see come in the shop.

Dutch

dutch1
01-15-2007, 04:34 PM
Incidentally the idle screw is the closest to the engine.

I was a litle soft in my reply but at least I was cautionary. In the end I am in total agreement with Restro.

Dutch

A.D Services
01-15-2007, 06:04 PM
i took it apart cleaned it up put a new diafram in the carb and it fired up right away i think its a nice little snowblower for how old it is are i just cant get it to idle right it will run with the chock on but if i take the choke off it dies right away . so you guys are saying these were one of the worst toro snowblowers? are the motors bad or something or is it the overall desighn of the blower. thanks for the help!

mojob
01-15-2007, 07:38 PM
It sounds like the crank seals are shot. If it runs with the choke on and dies when you turn it off that means it's running real lean. Two strokes will run lean if the engine isn't sealed up tight. Air is drawn into the crankcase through any gaps around seals causing a lean mixture.

dutch1
01-15-2007, 09:06 PM
How observant were you when you removed the old diagphram?

There were two types of diagphram carbs on the Tecumseh's. One is the F style and have an F stamped on the boss just above the closing plate on the inlet end of the carb. If it has an F, the diagphram is installed first followed by the gasket and closing plate. If there is not an F, the gasket goes on first followed by the diagphram and closing plate. You also should squirt carb/choke cleaner through the fuel inlet clean up any varnish in the intake screen. As I recall there is also a check valve in the inlet so do not blow through the inlet with high pressure air.

Another item I just recalled(remember it's been 4 years since I have been in a shop situation) that the S200's have a points/condensor ignition system. To accomplish this the shroud and flywheel must be removed. Point gap is .020. Our shop would not do a tune up without a car rebuild and points/condensor replacement. If a blower also needed scraper and paddles, the bill was $150-200 and rightfully so, the customer would most likely opt for a more efficient model. The S620 followed the S200 and was identical to it except that it had solid state ignition. Both were underpowered and poorly designed, particularly the housing. The newer PowerLites with the curved paddles, solid state ignition and Walbro bowl type carb were much more efficient and a pleasure to work on. In addition they had a metal housing.

I worked on at least 40 of them in 97 and that number gradually decreased to nearly 0 in 2003 due to age and cost of repair.

Dutch

A.D Services
01-15-2007, 09:18 PM
i dont remember what order i installed the diafram and gasket if it is in wrong do you think this will cause this situation it is in because ive played around with the screws and i still cant get it to run right, ive come close i could get it to run the rpms high then they go low then high again and on and on it goes. isnt that what they call power surging? not sure. do you think the crank seals are a possibility?

dutch1
01-15-2007, 09:22 PM
I'm not going to say it couldn't be crank seals but I never experienced any bad seals on the 100+ S-200's I worked on from 97-03.

When you get the unit started, does it smoke excessively? If it does, you may have a crankcase loaded with mix that has leaked through the carb into the crankcase. If you can get it started, alternate tipping the handle straight up to lowering the handle to the ground so as to consume as much of the fuel in the crankcase as possible. Generally the will clean themselves out and run with less smoke.

Dutch

A.D Services
01-15-2007, 09:51 PM
oh heavens yes! this thing smokes like crazy. and about the letter on the carb i didnt understand where it was? i do notice when it tips it wants to stall then when i tip it back on its wheels it goes back to normal

dutch1
01-16-2007, 01:01 AM
Looking at the intake of the carb, the F should appear on the flange area just above where the closer plate attaches to the bottom of the carb. If you don't have any luck, let me know and I'll try to help you tomorrow.

Dutch

Jason Pallas
01-16-2007, 10:35 PM
Do yourself a favor - put it on Ebay. I've sold a bunch of these (mostly found in the trash).... fixed some up, sold others as is. You'll get between $50 - 150 for it. Take that money and buy a real blower like the ccr 2000, 1000, 2500, or 3000 you'll be a lot happier if you're gonna count on the thing for commercial work. The unit you have is limited, parts are hard to find and the design is poor. You could even part it out on Ebay - those parts sell good too. Good Luck.

A.D Services
01-16-2007, 11:39 PM
well i dont want to throw it away yet because it runs fine i just have to clean and check out the carb. i highly dought that its the cank seal and it has good spark and the paddles and the scaper are in pretty good condition the carb is the only problem keeping me from using it. i could sell it on ebay like you said, ill have to think about that. thanks!!!

Jason Pallas
01-17-2007, 10:13 AM
Defintely don't through it away. It's got some value. Like I said, you can usually get some good $ for those on Ebay. We used to use those blowers - they are light and they do a pretty good job for lighter snows - up to about 4 inches or so. However, the design is poor and replacement parts are hard to come by and expensive - some carb parts aren't very easy to find at all.
For commercial use, the Toro CCR 1000 is a much better unit and comparable. With what you'd get on Ebay for this one, you could probably turn around and get one of those for $20 more.
BTW - a little cheater method that you might want to use for the carb prob - if you have a torepedo heater (or a hair dryer), heat the unit up (make sure not to melt it though) so that it's really warm (almost hot). Then start it and let it run. Sometimes the heat will free up some of the gummed up areas of the carb and then the newer gas running through the carb will push that crap through the system. Amazingly, this technique has worked quite frequently - saving me time cleaning/rebuilding many a carb.

A.D Services
01-21-2007, 12:43 AM
haha it worked dutch you were right i took the carb apart and found the f on the flange and turns out the diafragm was on wrong just like you said. put it back together and it started right up didnt even need to adsust the idle screws. looking at this blower it doesnt appear to have been used very much so maybe it will last awile and when it goes then i will throw it away! thanks for all the helpful info.

dutch1
01-21-2007, 08:15 AM
Well done, AD! The S200 isn't a bad little blower although will not handle much more than 3-4" of snow efficiently. The newer curved paddle models are much more eficient. Glad I could lend a hand.:clapping:

Dutch

MowerMedic77
01-21-2007, 09:22 AM
Good work A.D and good info Dutch, now sit back and enjoy:drinkup:

Jason Pallas
01-21-2007, 10:09 PM
ALRIGHT! Way to go guys! - Still not too late to list it on Ebay and get top dollar for it while it's running like a top.

A.D Services
01-22-2007, 12:20 AM
yea i guess i should, but after using it today with the snow that fell, that thing cleaned it right up. i wonder how much i could sell it for?

Little John1955
02-25-2009, 09:30 AM
Well I must be fortunate w/ mine. I found it besdie the road and it does run. Cost Me $7.97 for a New Starter Gear and Diaphram for the Carb. Anyway, I didn't pay attention when I disassembled the Carb. It has the 2 adjustment screws and I've started out by backing both out, one and a half turns. Which screw is which, as you look at it from the side? ( The one on the Right and the One on the Left) Thanks for anything You can tell Me regarding this question. John

Restrorob
02-25-2009, 01:08 PM
Incidentally the idle screw is the closest to the engine.

In your case the left is low right is high....

Little John1955
02-25-2009, 02:00 PM
In your case the left is low right is high.... Thanks for the Info. I'll work at it. By the way, "NICE TRUCK IN YOUR PIC"! Thanks Again

Restrorob
02-25-2009, 09:59 PM
"NICE TRUCK IN YOUR PIC"!


Thanks John ! http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif

Here's a few more with details;

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3076239

Hmmm, That 1955 up there wouldn't be for a 55 truck you have would it ?