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Lawnworks
01-21-2007, 07:26 PM
I just wanted your opinion on staking bnb trees(oaks, maples, etc). I have budgeted for staking 13 3" caliper pin oaks I installed the other day, but I am wondering if they really need it. We really took our time placing them in the ground straight, and it really paid off. I may need to stake one or two, but the others are perfect. What is your theories on staking?

barefootlawnsandlandscape
01-21-2007, 07:37 PM
I never stake anything over 2". Research has shown that staking the tree actually weakens it. As the base of the tree moves with the wind it actually creates more space in the trunk to produce wood, kind of like aerating a lawns. I think proper planting is the key. If you feel a tree needs staking because of its size or locations then by all means do it, but I try not to as much as possible.

Dirty Water
01-21-2007, 08:37 PM
I think it depends on the weather conditions.

There are some area's up here that have a near constant wind blowing.

Travel'n Trees
01-21-2007, 09:13 PM
It depends how tight the tree ball is it can't make roots swaying in the wind if the ball is loose. And if the ball is big enough some people put to small of a ball on them.

Lawnworks
01-21-2007, 09:36 PM
These had 36" rootball which I thought was a good size for these trees.

I bought some pin oaks that were 4" caliper for my yard from an "experimental" tree farm... they only had a 24" rootball. I am worried that was too small for that size tree. I would think they would need a 36"-48" rootball.

baddboygeorge
01-22-2007, 01:10 AM
that root ball planted correctly should keep it upright very well . sometimes when planting a tree of that caliper i will stake if the canopy is full an can disturbed by the wind! see ya George

anthonyr
01-22-2007, 01:12 AM
I never stake anything over 2". Research has shown that staking the tree actually weakens it. As the base of the tree moves with the wind it actually creates more space in the trunk to produce wood, kind of like aerating a lawns. I think proper planting is the key. If you feel a tree needs staking because of its size or locations then by all means do it, but I try not to as much as possible.

what he said

klkanders
01-22-2007, 03:37 PM
Even if a tree is planted correctly it can still settle or move with wind. Some trees will not need it others will based on what happens to the soil and if any wind after you leave. Alot of bigger contracts call for all trees to be staked as part of the bid.

Lawnworks - If I can ask why do you need to stake one or two of them? What usually happens to us when we don't stake all of them is some of them start leaning due to whatever conditions ( wind, soil, sod being drowned because just installed after we put trees in). If for example this happens and half of them lean on you its not always easy on you or the tree to push it back and stake it straight anyway. Its a gamble! Good Luck on whatever you decide to do!

Lawnworks
01-22-2007, 04:22 PM
I think a couple of them have a slight natural lean. I will probably go stake all of them... just won't tie them to hard.

Bigred350
01-22-2007, 06:56 PM
If you do stake it then do not leave the stakes on more than a year.


Another way to stake it is to take some 2x2 wood stakes. Drive 2 or three into the root ball and through it into the ground. Drive them so they are flush with the top of the root ball. Eventually the stakes will rot away and on top of that you will not have a bunch of ugly fence post on all your trees because you can see them. Works very well.

Lawnworks
01-22-2007, 07:18 PM
Yup going to have to stake them. They settled in a little w/ the rain we had and several aren't straight. I should have staked them to begin with... oh well.

paolaken
01-22-2007, 07:21 PM
i always stake my trees and return in a year and pull the stakes.

Travel'n Trees
01-22-2007, 10:56 PM
Also depends on how you are digging too. Auger?

Lawnworks
01-22-2007, 11:08 PM
yes to the auger... I guess if you are spading trees directly in the ground stakes may not be necessary

klkanders
01-23-2007, 12:54 AM
Lawnworks

Yep exactly what I feared would happen. You know its mother nature messin with you right? :) Someone earlier said they dont stake trees this size just smaller ones. Wonder if they will come and help you push them back straight and tie them off. I can't speak for anyone else on here but I wasn't crazy about the idea of driving stakes thru a rootball and possibly damaging any roots they hit along the way and also maybe breaking apart the firm rootball in the process. We use and reuse steel fence posts and roughly leave them on at least a year. Not too many complain of looks when they have straight healthy trees. Tell them how you plan on staking them and why and only do something different if they object.
If the ground is still wet enough would be a good time to push trees straight and stake them. Have fun and Good Luck to you!

hollywood
01-24-2007, 11:40 AM
In my experience stakes are cheap insurance against unwanted movement. Unless the trunk is multi-stemmed, I stake every tree, usually with three stakes and plastic chain lock. Generally the stakes are removed next season. Nothing worse than a crooked tree in a client's front yard.

General Landscaping
01-24-2007, 03:33 PM
I use Arborbrace to keep things lined up. It's so quick and easy to do, the cost is built into the estimate, and I don't like going back to fix stuff.

Allure
01-24-2007, 03:54 PM
I use Arborbrace to keep things lined up. It's so quick and easy to do, the cost is built into the estimate, and I don't like going back to fix stuff.

that's an interesting product http://www.treestaking.com/

about how much per tree does it cost you?

Also, is any of the material, like the straps, reusable? I assume the anchors remain in the ground after you remove the straps.

General Landscaping
01-24-2007, 04:05 PM
If I rember correctly, they cost a little over $7 a set. Sold directly from Arborbrace in boxes of 25 sets.
The time savings offsets the costs.

A slide hammer is the best way to install them... no banged up hands:nono:
If you are installing a set where Pedro may attack it with a trimmer, slide a foot or so of 1/2" PVC over the strap before installling.

You could salvage the straps for tying stuff down on the trailer; but once the system is installed, forget about reusing it for it's intended purpose.

Lawnworks
01-24-2007, 05:42 PM
I staked them while it was still sopping wet. Used arbor tie and 2ft stakes. The arbor tie was $54 for 500ft. I can't remember what the stakes were, but I would much rather do stakes than wire and hose(or whatever they use). From now on, as soon as I put the tree in I am going to stake it. I kept all the stakes w/in the mulch area around the tree(outside the rootball) so it wouldn't get in the way of mowing/trimming. Thanks for all the insight.

PatriotLandscape
01-25-2007, 01:40 PM
I stake trees only if they fall.

Staking reduces trunk taper and creates a false root system you are better of checking back in a week to see if they moved.

klkanders
01-25-2007, 04:21 PM
Sorry but I disagree....

Isn't it too late to stake them after they fall? Once they are watered in and they fall over, or even lean alot, it can break loose some roots.

So after checking back (which I hope isn't far because that incurs more cost) and finding some fell over or are now leaning do you stake them or just push them straight again if thats now even possible?

If staked properly and all lines are tight (with protection around trunk) this should not harm most trees. Just leave them on long enough for roots and soil to stabilize them.

PatriotLandscape
01-25-2007, 05:06 PM
It will harm the trees. It has been proven.

Do you know how long it takes for the roots to establish?

Also if you are going to stake you NEVER put the lines tight.

Staking is just a poor planting practice.

Lawnworks
01-25-2007, 06:39 PM
It seems if you are not going to stake them, the hole would have to be just big enough so the rootball slides in... and not digging the hole twice the size of the rootball. It seems that would be the only way to guarantee the rootball would not shift when watering in.

klkanders
01-25-2007, 07:15 PM
Lawnworks.......good point. But we all know thats not the right way either when the hole is supposed to be much larger than the rootball.

It seems so far more replies have been for staking trees, if they might move, than not staking them.

It will only harm the tree if you let it. I do agree that care has to be taken when staking a tree to prevent girdling. Remember its a temp. situation.

Roots establishing depends on the type of tree and surrounding soil conditions. People who plant trees for a living know when to remove stakes.

Never put the lines tight? Whats going to keep the tree from leaning then? There will always be some give in the line but they have to be tight so the tree is held tight. Remember to protect the trunk.

Staking a poor planting practice? I don't think so. Not all trees have to be staked. Saying its a poor planting practice depends on the situation. It has worked well for me when needed for over 20 yrs.

Anyone else?

PatriotLandscape
01-26-2007, 09:36 AM
double post

PatriotLandscape
01-26-2007, 09:38 AM
Staking
While there are many opinions on the method and value of staking trees at planting time, most experts agree that staking is not necessary for all trees. Trunk strength, size of the canopy, wind direction and site traffic problems should all be considered before staking a tree. Research has shown that staked trees may develop a smaller root system and decreased trunk taper. If the rootball is stable in the soil, then it may not need to be staked. However, if the root ball is unstable and staking is required, try to attach stakes low on the trunk and allow some sway. In most instances, stakes should be removed after one growing season.

from umassgreeninfo.org

If you think things have not changed in twenty years you are mistaken.

Rollacosta
01-26-2007, 10:01 AM
I'm a certified Arborist,when planting trees you should use a stake that only goes a few inches roughly 8'' up the tree trunk,the shorter the stake the better.This helps the tree develop a strong trunk,whilst allowing the trees roots to develop and not pull out due to wind rock..

I'm a big fan of tree anchors..

klkanders
01-26-2007, 12:44 PM
Yes some things have changed in the last 20 years thanks for clearing that up for me. I'm older :) Seriously tho the original question was if he should secure his 3" B&B trees. I along with alot of other people still say yes its a good idea in "that circumstance". He didn't and thus had to go back and push on the trees to straighten them. Any pushing on the trunk later, after he removed the twine or rope securing the rootball during planting, would tend to loosen the dirt around the roots. That's not good.

Lawnworks - Good Luck I hope the trees do great for you!

bunkers
04-02-2007, 02:53 PM
I think I've come to the conclusion that staking should be loose fitting, minimal, removed after a year and perhaps only when necessary (considering conditions and local norms).

For me, I regularly get 50-60 mph wind gusts and anything not staked in the first year stands a great chance of being blown over becoming dislodged and growing at a wind-induced angle (not straight up/down).

I'm going to check into those anchor systems, but they don't have diddle squat on their web site for buying them online.

jluksic
06-18-2007, 10:31 AM
Anyone know how or where to order arborbrace? Their website sucks.

Arborbrace
09-04-2007, 08:24 AM
Arborbrace has the same webbing for $30 per roll of 500ft. You can buy twice as much for the same price.

Arborbrace
09-04-2007, 08:30 AM
You can reach Arborbrace in Miami at (305) 992-4104. There are three phone numbers and three emails on the website and an information request page. Sorry you didn't like the website. Please tell us your suggestions on how to improve it. Like our products, we value input from our visitors/customers and are always looking for quality suggestions.