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Shawn Burns
07-05-2001, 09:07 PM
i have a hustler z and love it so far! one problem i have is the kawasaki 23hp engine started surging at about 40 hours. The local dealer cleaned and eventually replaced the carb. problem was fixed, or so I thought. Now I have to engauge blades at full throttle or the engine will die. I don't want to have to continue full throttle engaugments of the blades because it's hard on the clutch. Any ideas??

Dave
07-06-2001, 08:54 PM
if you have shut offs in the tanks chk the filters on the end of them

wdb
10-04-2004, 07:32 PM
I too have a surging problem with my 19hp Kawasaki in my Mini-Z. I can run fine at wide open throttle, but anything less and the thing surges. I noticed this every now and then at 25 hours, but now that it has almost 50 hours on it, it is becoming a pain in the butt. Did your mower also start having a rough idle? My mower starts easy, but the odd thing is that with the engine hot after 30 minutes of mowing, If I stop it, then try to restart it, I need to use the choke. That tells me this thing is running WAY too lean. I verified this by pulling the plugs to find that the inner cylinder's plug is ghost white while the outer one has a bit of black with a clean electrode. The dealer tells me nothing is wrong and to just run it wide open all the time. I fthe carb fixed your's I'm betting mine has picked up some dirt. For the first 20 hours or so, it ran as smooth as silk so I know it can do better then it is doing at this time.

Doc Pete
10-05-2004, 07:56 PM
i have a hustler z and love it so far! one problem i have is the kawasaki 23hp engine started surging at about 40 hours. The local dealer cleaned and eventually replaced the carb. problem was fixed, or so I thought. Now I have to engauge blades at full throttle or the engine will die. I don't want to have to continue full throttle engaugments of the blades because it's hard on the clutch. Any ideas??

That just shouldn't be. I have doubles on my 48 SWB with 23hp, and you can engauge the doubles just over idle without stalling. My 54" with 25 hp engauges doubles at mid or less rpm without a problem. Try pulling the choke out a bit just before you engauge.

wdb
10-06-2004, 07:56 AM
That just shouldn't be. I have doubles on my 48 SWB with 23hp, and you can engauge the doubles just over idle without stalling. My 54" with 25 hp engauges doubles at mid or less rpm without a problem. Try pulling the choke out a bit just before you engauge.

I removed my carburetor, disassembled it and blew out all the passages. This is a two venturi carburetor and on mine, one side had it's idle transfer ports partially plugged. I could see no dirt anywhere in the carburetor but when tried to spray gumout through that side, the flow was marginal. As I continued blasting it, things finally opened up. If you look at your carb near the throttle plates, ont he top you sill see some tiny holes in the venturi. Notrmally three in a triangular pattern and one about 1/4" and back. All four must be clear in each venturi or you have no part throttle or idle fuel in that cylinder. Symptoms will be constant surging until you get the engine RPM high enough to run on the main metering jets. Even then, the affected cylinder will run lean. Anyway, when I finished with the carb, I reinstalled it and the engine would again idle and run part throttle with no problems. It now runs like new. The dealer did not have a clue with respect to the problem. He just kept offering very simplistic ideas but tap danced around the real solution. The carburetor on a Kawasaki is easy to remove. First off, if you have a commercial type air cleaner. You must remove it from the wing along with that thick tube. Trying to bend the tube to remove it fromt he carb can net you a broken plastic inlet adapter. Next, on my Mini Z, I had to remove the wire from the fuel shut off, the PCV hose, fuel line and the clear carb vent hose. The vent hose is just that so don't let it fall and loose it. Next inhook the choke and throttle cables. Now is the only odd part. After removing the two screws and the two nuts holding the carb on, you will find that it will not clear the frame when sliding it on the two studs that stay on the manifold. You will have to remove one of the studs or the fuel shutoff valve. I removed a stud and tilted the carb and it came right off. You can get at everything by removing the float bowl screws. There are four of them. Once removed, make sure you don't dammage that thin rubber bowl gasket. Now blow out every hole and orifice. This should fix rough idling and surging. Oh, you will notice that the venturi butterfly valve does not open all the way. This is correct on the 19hp model. It will open to about the 1/2 throttle position and stop. Anyway, just be mindful of how you tore it apart and you should have no problem cleaning and reassembling this carb. Hope this helps since I'm told these carburetors are notorious for this problem. The same engine is used on many commercial mowers and I hear people with these machines complain of the same issues. Oh, I can engage my blades at just above idle and it slows down initially but does not stall or anything. Throttle responce is now crisp. This si the way these Kawasaki engines are designed to run.
Bill B.

theservicingdealer
10-06-2004, 10:43 AM
It is not abnormal to have to choke the kawasaki hot or cold. You cab thank the EPA for that!!. These engines run very lean becuase of the emission regs. Using the choke when you first engage the mower deck like Doc Pete says is also not abnormal. The surging sounds like dirt some where in the carb-Dirty air filter-. Remeber it doesnt take much for these engine to run slightly erratic. This is what is going to happening in all brands of engines because of the new regs of 2004. Some models are just more sensive then others. Yes it is a pian in the butt I agree. The Days of readjusting carbs are gone. NonAdjustable carbs are now the norm. :realmad:

Mike GA
08-18-2005, 09:12 PM
has any one ever had a problem with the muffler on a Hustler Z with the 23 hp Kawasaki engine??