PDA

View Full Version : How good are you guys at troubleshooting?


stuffdeer
01-27-2007, 09:25 AM
Heres my post from another board

Ok guys. Serious problem here. My truck is used 5 or 6 days a week to commute to school, and to work. So I kinda need to get this fixed.

I went out to start it yesterday, and it wouldn't start. 14 degrees out.

My dad and I pushed it into the garage and kicked the heater on, he said it started, but wouldn't start back up. I got home, started up, then it started RIGHT back up.

So, I've come to the conclusion, it'll start right back up when its about 110 degree under the hood. But, It won't this this morning either. It's 37 degrees.

I finally cranked it over long enough to get it to start, and then die. So I kept trying, and got it to start. But only after 2 mins worth of turning over?


Can you guys solve my problem?! I would be terribly Happy, and thank you forever!

Guess I got to tell you what engine and such.

2000 S-10
2.2 5 speed.
40,167 miles.

It threw these codes

Ok, Guys

I went to autozone and had them check the codes, it was throwing.

Turns out its throwing these 3, in this order.
1.P04019 Error- PCM has determined that a malfunction exsists in the secondary air injection system.
2. P1137 Error- Lack of H02S switch - system indicates lean (My starting problem)
3. P0410PD Error- PCM has determined that a malfunction exsists in the secondary air injection system.

GreenN'Clean
01-27-2007, 09:46 AM
Try some air injection cleaner your injectors might have some debris in them. Its worth a shot and its cheap enough that if it isn't the problem you won't be out of alot of money.

mojob
01-27-2007, 10:21 AM
It sounds like the mixture is too lean on cold starts. I don't know your engine so I'm guessing here. I would suspect a bad "cold start valve". I have a VW van and I know it has a valve for this purpose and I would imagine all other vehicles would have something similar. It takes the place of a choke on fuel injected engines and injects more fuel when the engine is cold. A richer mixture is needed when the engine is cold. Get a manual for the vehicle and it will tell you where to find it on the engine and how to trouble shoot it. Good luck.

mojob
01-27-2007, 10:24 AM
I was assuming the battery was good and the engine was cranking over normally.

lubricity
01-28-2007, 04:06 PM
Spray the throttle boby and clean the little air hole.

lawnpro724
01-28-2007, 04:38 PM
If it were a carb I would say your choke is stuck open so Auto Zone is correct.

dhardin53
01-30-2007, 05:50 PM
I have had several trucks that run great in warmer weather but if it gets real cold its just hard to start or wont start at all. But warm them up enough and they start. Well you checked the codes and nothng really jumper out at you like something totaly failed. I leeds me to try changing the fule filter.A filter that is just a little cloged will work for years till it gets really cold then the will restrice the flow when cold and you get many of this type of error codes.
Just my experence. good luck

Dirty Water
01-30-2007, 07:37 PM
On a fuel injected engine like your 2.2 they do have a cold start enrichment system. This varies from engine to engine. Any competent shop can pull the AllData info on the engine and know where the cold start components are as well as their proper specifications for testing.

Shouldn't be an expensive labor wise, but it might be pricey in parts. The major issue is that you can attempt to solve this yourself by guessing and throwing parts at it until you find the right one, or you could take it to a professional (I'd even go to a chevy dealership on this one), and they can have it taken care of in a few hours.

corey4671
01-30-2007, 07:52 PM
Heres my post from another board

Ok guys. Serious problem here. My truck is used 5 or 6 days a week to commute to school, and to work. So I kinda need to get this fixed.

I went out to start it yesterday, and it wouldn't start. 14 degrees out.

My dad and I pushed it into the garage and kicked the heater on, he said it started, but wouldn't start back up. I got home, started up, then it started RIGHT back up.

So, I've come to the conclusion, it'll start right back up when its about 110 degree under the hood. But, It won't this this morning either. It's 37 degrees.

I finally cranked it over long enough to get it to start, and then die. So I kept trying, and got it to start. But only after 2 mins worth of turning over?


Can you guys solve my problem?! I would be terribly Happy, and thank you forever!

Guess I got to tell you what engine and such.

2000 S-10
2.2 5 speed.
40,167 miles.

It threw these codes

Ok, Guys

I went to autozone and had them check the codes, it was throwing.

Turns out its throwing these 3, in this order.
1.P04019 Error- PCM has determined that a malfunction exsists in the secondary air injection system.
2. P1137 Error- Lack of H02S switch - system indicates lean (My starting problem)
3. P0410PD Error- PCM has determined that a malfunction exsists in the secondary air injection system.

possibly the rotor button...if that fails try changing the fluid in the turn signal....

Repairs
01-30-2007, 10:49 PM
Yes, I have found the bumper terminal on my trucks sometimes needs turning. If that doesnt work, you can do what all the other dealers do now, and reflash the pcm, and call it fixed. :cool2:

Uranus
01-30-2007, 11:24 PM
Hold on. Before you go and spend all that money changing turn sigal fluid and fooling with bumper terminals did you reinflate your tires with winter air. It will make a huge difference in the engine starting

robbo521
01-31-2007, 12:26 AM
will have your info tomorrow.

Mlc gmc03
01-31-2007, 12:59 AM
we have a 4.3 chevy that when its real humid out and cold wont start it seems that we get hairline cracks in the ditributor cover and it wont start will crank and try to start just dosent do it so maybe try changing the distributor cap that solves the prob for us

robbo521
01-31-2007, 09:15 AM
The codes for Secondary air shouldn't have anything to do with the starting. The code P1137 is a lean code and can kind of give me an indication he either had/has a vacuum leak,low fuel pressure or possibly a bad O2 sensor. I would be willing to bet, the fuel pump is bad. Even though it has a electronics, you can still do the basic checks. Check for spark,and check for fuel. If it's got a schrader valve somehwere on the fel line, turn the key on and depress the valve and see if any fuel squirts out. If it doesn't, more then likely the pump is bad. Then before condemning the pump, check all fuses,relays and if it's got a fuel shut-off switch---like an inertia switch, check it and make sure it wasn't popped. Then also do the normal wiring check, make sure he didn't run over something and tear up some wiring under the truck or some mouse didn't chew up something under the hood.

stuffdeer
01-31-2007, 08:03 PM
The codes for Secondary air shouldn't have anything to do with the starting. The code P1137 is a lean code and can kind of give me an indication he either had/has a vacuum leak,low fuel pressure or possibly a bad O2 sensor. I would be willing to bet, the fuel pump is bad. Even though it has a electronics, you can still do the basic checks. Check for spark,and check for fuel. If it's got a schrader valve somehwere on the fel line, turn the key on and depress the valve and see if any fuel squirts out. If it doesn't, more then likely the pump is bad. Then before condemning the pump, check all fuses,relays and if it's got a fuel shut-off switch---like an inertia switch, check it and make sure it wasn't popped. Then also do the normal wiring check, make sure he didn't run over something and tear up some wiring under the truck or some mouse didn't chew up something under the hood.

Thanks for the Great information!

I got it running, and I believe it had something to do with the Fuel Filter. I will be replacing that soon.

Willofalltrades
02-01-2007, 12:01 PM
A friend just paid a $500 bill because his Sanoma wouldn't start. I guess he washed it in the cold and got the same thing. Something with the air intake I think... donno but he just showed me the bill and this case seems similar. Have you washed the truck in the cold reciently?

topsites
02-01-2007, 04:49 PM
*** When troubleshooting and unsure of the cause, always start by replacing the cheapest things first ***

With that logic in mind, I would go ahead and replace the fuel filter, and the air filter first.
Then maybe the pcv valve and the breather cap.

If that doesn't fix it, try replacing spark plugs (at least inspect them).
At least this way we start by eliminating some possibles.
Ignition cap and rotor replacement probably wouldn't hurt.

Once this is all done and it still doesn't start, it's relay troubleshooting time (I said ReLay, not really).
First, you'll have to find your relays.
Likely, they're in a black plastic box under the hood (NOT the fuse box, r-e-l-a-y-s lol).
Check your owner's manual for their location if unsure.
Once you find them, the best way to see if all relays are working is to pull the one on the very end out (and hold it or put it aside).
Then take the second one out and plug it where the first one was.
Take the third one out and plug it where the second one was.
And so on, until you've moved the last one to the second-to-last spot, then plug the first relay into the last one's spots.
You have, in effect, just rotated your relays.
If no relays are bad, you should notice no change in vehicle behavior (and, this cause is eliminated).
Now, IF a relay is (or was) bad, this won't fix your problem but it will 'relocate' the problem: Meaning that now the fuel issue should be resolved and likely something else is now the matter: If this is the case, you'll need to isolate the faulty relay and replace it, which should be easy now that you've rotated them, the faulty one is the one that got moved FROM the old trouble TO the new trouble spot.

Hope that helps.

John Gamba
02-01-2007, 04:57 PM
I got a buck on one of the temperature sensors.

Ga.GrassCutter
02-14-2007, 06:34 PM
Could be the Mass Air Sensor or the Idle solenoid also.

The Rookie
02-14-2007, 08:47 PM
Changing out working parts with new working parts will not fix the problem. I would take it to a "certified" mechanic before I spent all my money changing parts.