Field Plows

[danmc]

We have a JD 6403 and need to start plowing fields to prepare them for tree planting this upcoming spring - other than John Deere, does anyone know of other manufacturers?

Thanks,
Dan

[JB1]

We have a JD 6403 and need to start plowing fields to prepare them for tree planting this upcoming spring - other than John Deere, does anyone know of other manufacturers?

Thanks,
Dan


other manufactures for what?

[FearThisDeere]

I would assume for field plows???? Try a google search there are millions of them out there.

[jd270]

what kind of plow are you looking for a chiesel plow or a mollboard plow ....what kind of field are you talking about how many acers and what is in it now

[danmc]

First let me explain that I think me and my co-workers are in over our heads with this one, and there is no one local we can hire to do it. Neither of us know much about plowing fields - let alone what type of plow we need...
Long story short, we started a woodland management thing on the propery and need to start planting some trees. The field we are starting with is an old old cow pasture that according to our woodland manager has severe compression damage. We're not doing the entire field, just rows where the trees will be planted. I believe it is roughly ten acres...but this is just the tip of the iceberg...

[Birdhunter1]

First off what kind of soil do you have.

Your best bet on a plow would probably be an older 3 bottom either 14" or 16" (referred to as 3-14 or 3-16). The reason I say older is Dearborn, Ford, Ferguson and John Deere made some bulletproof plows back in teh day when they were used in everyday ag production and are much better than the ones you can buy new today. Working depth will be in the 8"-12" range. With a plow like this you'll also need a good heavy disc to work the dirt after it has dried a few days. These will produce a good finish but a plow can be a complicated piece of equipment for a newbie and a disc adds alot of compaction to the ground even as it works the dirt into seedebed quality.

If you're wanting to fight severe compaction get a 1 shank or 2 shank subsoiler. Subsoiler's go down deep and break up the hardpan but don't do much on the surface. Depending on your soil type you might be best off with a subsoiler and a chisel plow. The subsoiler can break up the deep stuff (12"-18") and the chisel plow can work the up top stuff (up to 8"-10"). The combination would be great because you can also use your subsoiler to dig the trench to plant your trees in in a row and then either use a blade angled to turn the dirt into the trench or use a shovel and rake to push it in. Plus a chisel plow is easy for beginners, if you can also find a good field cultivator that will help produce a better finish. A 6403 should be able to handle a good heavy 6-7 shank chisel plow and a 6'-7' field cultivator with no problem.

If the only thing you are going to do is plant the trees and leave it then the subsoiler will do everything you want to do. A moldboard plow, chisel plow, field cultivator or disc is going to mainly deal with turning your top residue under to rot into the ground. If you're going to plant the field in a cover crop such as clover or fescue I'd opt to turn it all under, plant your cover crop then plant your trees. I'd do it this way to level out your field and get rid of your high/low spots and cattle paths.

To find these look in the local trader or go to a farm type consignment auction for the best deal.

[jd270]

what kind of trees will you be planting i usually plant 4 or 5 hundred red and white pines a year and mostly on old hay fields with a lot of compaction and i just dig holes and plant them i have had very good luck ..i farm around 3,000 acres i use a subsoiler to rip cornstalks but it takes around 50 hp a shank i use a 400 hp deere i have ripped ground for grape growers a plow really dosent get the compaction layer

[gene gls]

I'm not up on tractors, but I would look into buying a rotortiller to fit your tractor. Or, hire some one with a tractor/tiller to run over the row's where the trees will be planted. I asume you are talking planting seedlings. What kind of trees??

[Birdhunter1]

The problem with a rototiller is it will not do much to fight the compaction problem you have.
How long was this 10 acres in pasture and how heavily was it grazed?

[Fieldman12]

I would probably recommend a chisel plow and then go back and hit it with a disk with some sort of harrow to level it good. You could go the moldboard way which is really best since it has grass and weeds growing on it. This would turn the grass and weeds under and help them rot. The problem is one it don't sound like your working up all the field and your doing just strips. A moldboard leaves a ditch which is called a furrow which can be a nightmare to get leveled back out. Often it leaves a dip in the field. You can mess a field up really quick if you dont know what your doing using a moldboard. They are not hard to use just not near as forgiving as a chisel plow will be. The reason you dont see moldboards as much for another reason is you have to go around and around the field unless you have the flip over type plows. Problem is it can be harder to find a small chiesel plow. The rotortiller would be slow if you have much to do and not to mention it can get allot of the grass and weeds tangled up in it. If you decide to go that route be sure to mow it as low as you can first.

[danmc]

I'm not sure what we will be replanting - a mix of hardwoods I believe, but we have to do a soil sample first then our woodland person will tell us what needs to be planted but they will be seedlings, which is why we need to get it soft. Up until last year it has been a cattle pasture since 1928...
Once the trees are planted we will be mowing the field on a regular basis...

[gene gls]

I'm not sure what we will be replanting - a mix of hardwoods I believe, but we have to do a soil sample first then our woodland person will tell us what needs to be planted but they will be seedlings, which is why we need to get it soft. Up until last year it has been a cattle pasture since 1928...
Once the trees are planted we will be mowing the field on a regular basis...

My inlaws farm is in the 3rd generation. The only pasture area that I would call compacted is around the barn yard and the path ways that the cows walk every day as they go out to the pasture.

I think you need to have your "woodland person" define his idea of areating the area. My tractor guy can bury his 5' rotortiller down 12" with no problem. I would think that would be sufficent for any seedling. What is the purpose of creating a " hardwood" wood lot?

[start2finish]

there are many manufacturers of chisel plows or rippers, some call the no'till rippers. They do very little to disturb the soil on top. Leaving residue for erosion control, but reduce soil compaction drastically.

try this
http://www.newholland.com/h4/products/products_series_detail.asp?Reg=NA&RL=ENNA&NavID=000001277003&series=000003913511

I'm not sure what your tractor's hp is is around 95?

moldboard plows are great for removing residue, but actually pack the soil just beneath the plow. but if you insist on using one your tractor should handle 4(16 inch) plow very well. 3pt hitch or "onland" the international resets are great for rocky land the will trip and automatically reset easily.

[DiyDave]

If you are still looking for plows, there's an auction coming up Feb 10th at Walters farm(auctioneer) in Felton, DE. Usually has a few plows show up at this sale. Dont believe all that about plows compacting the soil. That's just when land is plowed for crops year after year. A local farmer could be a good consultant on a job like this. Not to accuse You or anyone posting here of it, but most of the time ignorant people who plow ground too wet cause compaction problems that show up later.

[chuckers]

Disk rip it and be done work it about 16 inches and forget about it ... It will also help with the drainage. Talk to local farmers they will do it for 30$ an acre not a bad deal.

[D Felix]

How long are you planning on taking to plant these seedlings?

Where I am working right now (but I'm leaving at the end of the week), we plant seedlings every spring. 10 acres on an 8'x10' spacing is less than 550 trees per acre, so 5500 trees. On a 10'x10' spacing, thats 435 trees per acre or 4350 trees total. Either number (5500 or 4350) could be done by three people in WELL under two days. Probably more like one decently long day.

We use a homemade tree planter that is pulled by a tractor. I'll see if I can't get some pictures of it later in the week. Two guys sit on the planter facing backwards and alternate putting trees in a groove in the soil that is opened up by the planter. Immediately after the tree is put in the groove, two "closing" wheels push the soil back shut around the tree. You still have to "stomp" the trees in by foot, but the hard part is done.

At most, you only need to have the pasture chisel plowed and then disc'ed. But that should have been done last fall...

While I'm not the expert of experts, I've got a few thousand trees under my belt and will be glad to help however I can.

[Birdhunter1]

there are many manufacturers of chisel plows or rippers, some call the no'till rippers. They do very little to disturb the soil on top. Leaving residue for erosion control, but reduce soil compaction drastically.

try this
http://www.newholland.com/h4/products/products_series_detail.asp?Reg=NA&RL=ENNA&NavID=000001277003&series=000003913511

I'm not sure what your tractor's hp is is around 95?

moldboard plows are great for removing residue, but actually pack the soil just beneath the plow. but if you insist on using one your tractor should handle 4(16 inch) plow very well. 3pt hitch or "onland" the international resets are great for rocky land the will trip and automatically reset easily.


I have a buddy that uses a ripper like that on his farm in the river bottoms and you'd better figure on about 45-50 hp per shank rather than the 30 hp per shank they recommend. Actually my buddy uses one from CASE/IH that is a has a deeper bite and really busts up the hardpan, it will bother the top a little bit bt by springtime after the frosts and rains we get the ground looks like nothign has been done to it at all. One thing about that ripper, it will make the ground feel a bit more spongy and it will stay wetter a little bit longer.

[nmurph]

you need a sub-soiler. all of the other mentioned plows are simply moving the top layer of soil around. the sub-soiler will loosen the soil 20-24" down. this is where the roots of the trees need to be able to spread. then as another poster said, you will need a tree planter. it will also have a ripper and a colter disc to open the bed and allow the tree to be dropped. it will have 2 wheels set at an angle which will close the bed. i have never had to stomp trees after we have planted (longleaf pine), but that may vary with the species you are planting. i would check with the local forestry service or a local university. they can give you information specific to your type of planting such as timing, density, specific varieties and suppliers who are reliable and sell a quality product.
if you are only going to plant the one field, i would seriously consider gettting a professional to do the job. if the trees are not planted at the correct depth and with the roots in the correct position, you are simply burying money in the dirt..........