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PurpHaze
02-21-2007, 10:03 PM
Went to turn the isolation valve back on for the repair job we did at the high school yesterday. Dang ball valve is 26" deep and had so much back-pressure on it that we were unable to open it by hand. Had to take my box lid puller, jam it down the sleeve into the ground next to the valve and then gently bump the handle to get it to open. Needless to say... we went and ordered a 2-1/2" resilient wedge valve this afternoon and we'll replace the sucker as soon as parts come in. :cry:

PurpHaze
02-21-2007, 10:09 PM
Here's a couple of pictures of a QCV system repair from this morning. Apparently the spring weakened allowing the QCV to weep and then a mower wheel cracked the tee by hitting the QCV. Was able to get away with just one Dresser coupling because the 2-1/2" Dressers come in "long barrel" configuration. (We have to pay a little extra if we want the long barrels on 3" and bigger.) This allowed us to cut a piece of pipe and then glue it into the tee leaving a wider gap to be spanned without having to dig a bigger hole and bow the existing pipe.

Dirty Water
02-21-2007, 10:25 PM
That riser tube is sitting right on your mainline, and a PVC ball valve as an isolation valve...Thats pathetic.

At least that should be a real easy repair. I've only been out of the dirt for three weeks and I'm already wishing I could do that one.

Hank Reardon
02-21-2007, 10:41 PM
That riser tube is sitting right on your mainline, and a PVC ball valve as an isolation valve...Thats pathetic.

At least that should be a real easy repair. I've only been out of the dirt for three weeks and I'm already wishing I could do that one.

You can take the boy out of irrigation but you can't take the irrigation out of the boy!

bicmudpuppy
02-22-2007, 05:31 AM
That riser tube is sitting right on your mainline, and a PVC ball valve as an isolation valve...Thats pathetic.

At least that should be a real easy repair. I've only been out of the dirt for three weeks and I'm already wishing I could do that one.

He'll be moonlighting by April!

koster_irrigation
02-22-2007, 07:07 AM
what do you use to secure your quick couplers.

& what model # dresser couplings do you use

PurpHaze
02-22-2007, 08:14 AM
what do you use to secure your quick couplers.

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking but if you're referring to the rebar and clamp in the first set of pictures we don't do this. We solely rely on the soil to secure the QCV. The last part of our swing joints is a galvanized nipple and that coupled with the dried soil keeps the QCV from either tilting or unscrewing.

what model # dresser couplings do you use

I believe they're style #38.

PurpHaze
02-22-2007, 08:21 AM
That riser tube is sitting right on your mainline, and a PVC ball valve as an isolation valve...Thats pathetic.

Just another fine LameScape quality installation.

At least that should be a real easy repair.

WHERE it is located is more the challenge. It's in a teardrop planter in a very busy parking lot. We'll have to block off a bit of the lot to give us some safety cushion. I still haven't decided whether we hand dig this one or use the Bobcat backhoe.

We'll have everything already put together before we open the hole. Then it will just be a matter of dropping it in with the aid of Dresser couplings unless we run into something unusual. We'll be able to turn the water back on before we even backfill. Main thing I'm leery about is that somewhere near the valve it has to dive in order to go under the parking lot.

I've only been out of the dirt for three weeks and I'm already wishing I could do that one.

The dirt under the fingernails will never go away. :laugh:

koster_irrigation
02-22-2007, 03:29 PM
Yeh thats what a was referring to. Ive seen some people pour half a bag of concrete in the valve box to stablize the QC (good luck with repairs) and seen some use the rebar with clamp.

I havent installed but a few, ive used the rebar method.

Reason i asked about the dresser coupling is i went on their website and and saw only couplings for ductile and cast iron.
so im guessing they work with no problem on pvc.

PurpHaze
02-22-2007, 09:30 PM
Yeh thats what a was referring to. Ive seen some people pour half a bag of concrete in the valve box to stablize the QC (good luck with repairs) and seen some use the rebar with clamp.

I havent installed but a few, ive used the rebar method.

I guess the rebar method works OK but we've just never used it. Once the dirt hardens you can run a large truck or other equipment over it wiithout any problem whatsoever. The problem occurs when a weak spring or debris causes a weeper and then something heavy is run over it. With the ground being soft then breakage can occur. Our swing joints protect the QCV and the main line and breakage will occur at a SCH 80 nipple or 90. These are quickly replaced without glueing and then our water can be immediately turned back on.

The picture shows a long galvanized nipple attached to the PVC tee with the QCV directly on top which is the way they were originally installed. The shock will go down the galvanized nipple to the weakest point being the PVC which then breaks.

They do make QCVs with stabilizing wings but we've never used them.

Reason i asked about the dresser coupling is i went on their website and and saw only couplings for ductile and cast iron. so im guessing they work with no problem on pvc.

They show some inclusive for PVC but the ones we use work fine also. Pretty much will work on any pipe with nominal pipe sizes.

PurpHaze
02-23-2007, 10:24 PM
Finished up on a main line repair this morning at district offices. Was able to hand dig in a planter as it wasn't too deep and not a ton of roots... just a thick mat of Asian jasmine. Some pleasant root surprises though that required surgical skills on the wiring. Decided on the 90/90 method to relieve some stress in that particular area.

gusbuster
02-24-2007, 01:06 AM
On some of my older commercial clients, we have this happen all the time. Breaks a pipe, go to repair, if lucky we will not cut the wire while digging. Kind of hard to tell the difference between wire and roots.

koster_irrigation
02-24-2007, 08:27 AM
Thats alot of water!

Did the root crack that 2" tee?

PurpHaze
02-24-2007, 10:02 AM
On some of my older commercial clients, we have this happen all the time. Breaks a pipe, go to repair, if lucky we will not cut the wire while digging. Kind of hard to tell the difference between wire and roots.

This is one of the rare older systems that I have asbuilts on because the building was originally the So Cal Gas Company headquarters in our area. I knew there was a hose bibb in the planter and that somewhere close the main line 45ed to head to the back of the building under the main sidewalk. We always start with shovel, downsize to trenching shovel and then eventually hand trowel and screwdriver as we get closer to the wiring and main. Unfortunately I was unable to extract two wires from the roots so ended up cutting them intentionally in order to get enough root out of the way to make the repairs.

Thats alot of water! Did the root crack that 2" tee?

The root did crack the tee but originally it was probably only about 2/3 the way through. As the root was manipulated to see what was going on the tee cracked the rest of the way. Needless to say we did not reinstall the hose bibb.

Grassmechanic
02-24-2007, 10:10 AM
Hey PurpHaze, on your QCV swingjoint, have you ever turned your "tee" 90 degrees to the side instead of straight up? I've done them out the side instead of straight up - you can save yourself a 90 or two.

PurpHaze
02-24-2007, 10:19 AM
Hey PurpHaze, on your QCV swingjoint, have you ever turned your "tee" 90 degrees to the side instead of straight up? I've done them out the side instead of straight up - you can save yourself a 90 or two.

We do them that way also with a Slip x Slip x Thread tee. In this particular repair instance we looked the tee up so we could swivel the QCV at glueing time into any position in the hole we wanted without having to dig out more of the hole. :)