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View Full Version : Toro's Kohler engine swap (w/ pics)


topsites
03-03-2007, 06:19 PM
The process is, in comparison, slightly easier than the belt-drive's Tecumseh transmission, but you do need a gear puller to get the pulley off, a torx bit set for the ground screw, a hex key set for the set screws, some type of lube (wd-40, liq.wrench, etc...) and some patience.
Here's the low down:

Before (old and new):
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/oldbefore.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/oldbefore2.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/oldbefore3.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/newbefore.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/newbefore2.jpg

topsites
03-03-2007, 06:25 PM
A jack helps, as does a vocabulary (remember to curse the striping kit as it gets in way):

http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/ajackhelps.jpg

The only thing I did not take pics of was the bolts underneath...
There are 4, 1/2 inch or 13mm got these off pretty easy, also remember to take off the transmission belt.

Before I started up underneath, I unhooked Fuel, throttle, and ground wire.
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/fuelthrottleandground.jpg

Once I got the 4 bolts off from under, the engine leans forward giving access to the pulley set screws (one you can get to easier from under), there were three of these...
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/gettingoldout1.jpg

You can't see the set screws, but they're through the center hole...
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/stupidsetscrews.jpg

And remember the gear puller (the first pulley has to be gotten from under):
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/bigpulleyoffcloseup.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/bigpulleyoff1st.jpg

topsites
03-03-2007, 06:29 PM
And POOF:
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/andPOOF.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/andPOOF2.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/oldengineout.jpg

And clean the surface, probably the only cleaning this saw in 9 years:
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/cleansurfacelol.jpg

topsites
03-03-2007, 06:34 PM
The 2nd pulley was considerably easier in comparison (lots of Liquid wrench):
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/getpulleysoff2.jpg

OHhhh and I forgot to mention you really SHOULD drain the oil from the old before you start!
I did not do this, and while getting the 2nd pulley off, oil got all up in the carb and started to leak through the air filter and all that is soaked with oil now.

I suppose one should get a new key, but I was able to re-use the old one, and put the first pulley on the new shaft (a hammer was required, but mostly light tapping):
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/putpulleyson.jpg

And set that new thing onto the mower.
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/newprocessing1.jpg

I forgot to take pics of getting the 2nd pulley on, but basically I put the engine on the mower and tilted it forwards with the 1st pulley hanging at the edge of the center hole, a hammer from up under and some dexterity got that happening (and remember the set screws grrrr...)

Basically things go fast once the 2nd pulley is on, it's all the reverse of removal, 4 set screws, fill OIL!!!, connect fuel and throttle and ground and voila!
I also replaced the inline fuel filter.
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/newfinish1.jpg
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/Engine Swap/newfinish2.jpg

Other notes: Start and let idle for a bit, well, I think all the aftermath is self explanatory lol.

topsites
03-03-2007, 06:39 PM
Notes of interest:
The engine that got took out is a CV15T-41624
> The engine that got put in is a CV15T-41629

Nearly identical, the 41629 has a few electrical add-ons that do not get in the way but are evidently for an ES system, the 41629 is available from smallenginewarehouse.com for around $525 + shipping (the 41624 everyone I asked wanted $1,100 - $1,300 for).

Other than that, the bolt pattern and the keyed shaft and the throttle hooks up are identical, except on the 41629 there is a carb adjustment screw to kill the engine vs. the 41624's grounding solenoid thing... I'm not sure if this is an improvement or a difference in design, but it makes no difference because when you turn the throttle to off, the engine dies.

I also forgot to mention you should either drain or shut off the fuel.
Air tools help some, but for the most part I stuck with hand tools.

Total time: About 4 hours, really not bad.

lawnboy dan
03-03-2007, 07:17 PM
no electric clutch on this toro?

topsites
03-03-2007, 09:16 PM
no electric clutch on this toro?

No, that's one of the big reasons I like Toro's 48" Fixed deck so much, that big black lever by the throttle switch manually engages it via a swiveled pulley on the deck. You can see it in the very last pic, it's actually beside the fuel tank, you push forward and it pushes a pulley forward and this 'snaps' the belt into place.

I don't miss the electronic clutch one bit, it is kinda cool but I used to have one back in the days of float decks and I cursed it more than a few times, it gets in the way a lot.

This Wb is all manual, the worst drawback is that unless you fix the operator presence safety switch is that if you let go of the bail when the blades are engaged, the entire machine shuts down (engine too). That is probably the only complaint I have, but it sure is nice not to have to deal with that.

It shows better on a pic of a new one, the white circled part narrows it down, that black pulley on that swivel thing with the spring and what have you is what does it:
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/0530197c2.jpg

Here's another picture of the handle (circled in white):
You just push forward on that and it's engaged.
http://stonypointlawncare.com/images/9830197e2.jpg