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Duekster
03-04-2007, 09:11 AM
I have a valve, which will not open on a new installation.

All Zones have 42~43 Ohms on them including the one in question. I eliminated the controller by switching stations at the TC and the problem follows the valve.

I replaced the solenoid and top bonnet, leaving the body. It works in manual.

I have cleaned up the splices, and can hear the valve hum when firing.

I am at about wits end here. :dizzy:

SprinklerGuy
03-04-2007, 09:17 AM
Port under the solenoid is probably clogged w/ glue etc....did you check that yet?



Good luck....

Duekster
03-04-2007, 09:32 AM
Port under the solenoid is probably clogged w/ glue etc....did you check that yet?



Good luck....

The valve body was supposed to be replaced yesterday. That is twice I heard something similar. Will let you know. Thanks.

DanaMac
03-04-2007, 10:07 AM
You are licensed in Texas, you should be able to figure it out. Don't they put you through a lot of testing for that stuff?

PurpHaze
03-04-2007, 10:34 AM
I have a valve, which will not open on a new installation.

Although all automatic valves work on basically the same principles it would be better in the future if you'd indicate a brand and model when asking questions like this. Sometimes the guys on the forum know of particular problems an irrigation part is experiencing (or has experienced in the past) and will be happy to include this information in their responses. Of course... a picture is worth a thousand words also. :nono:

For example... If the valve had been an Irritrol Century Plus model I'm aware that valves manufactured about five years ago had pitot tube problems (this is the "port" some have advised you to clean) and also with diaphragms sticking to the diaphragm support ring and either not opening at all or hanging up and not shutting down. :)

Dirty Water
03-04-2007, 10:50 AM
The guy is from texas, so I'm going to say slip valves....

I'm also going to say its either a Rainbird DVF-100 or a Hunter valve.

And I bet if he took the solinoid off, and stuck a marking flag down the tiny port there, everything would be fine. Probably from sloppy glueing.

londonrain
03-04-2007, 11:55 AM
I have worked on a few toro 250 valves that would not open period. I Replaced everything IE: top, diaphragm, solenoid, cleaned port hole, etc... changed the body then it worked. Plus one or two Hunter SRV valves same thing... Also if you have a Hardie/irritrol 205 type valve that will not open fully or low flow, then the diaphragm needs replacing. We changed out two last week with 1992 date codes...

Duekster
03-04-2007, 12:50 PM
The guy is from texas, so I'm going to say slip valves....

I'm also going to say its either a Rainbird DVF-100 or a Hunter valve.

And I bet if he took the solinoid off, and stuck a marking flag down the tiny port there, everything would be fine. Probably from sloppy glueing.


Thanks, it is a DV 100 SS.

And yes, running some new guys this year. I have never had this problem in the past.

I will let you know.

Thanks

Duekster
03-04-2007, 12:51 PM
You are licensed in Texas, you should be able to figure it out. Don't they put you through a lot of testing for that stuff?

Why yes they do but this was not on the exam.

DanaMac
03-04-2007, 12:56 PM
I'm just bustin' your balls. Don't take it personal :)

Duekster
03-04-2007, 01:55 PM
I'm just bustin' your balls. Don't take it personal :)

Why would I?

PurpHaze
03-04-2007, 04:11 PM
I'm just bustin' your balls. Don't take it personal.

Why would I?

Wait until April when he's working 16 hour days. Don't even keyboard at him crosseyed. :laugh: