View Full Version : Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor Stator Problem. Please Help.
03-14-2007, 12:28 PM
In my quest to fix an electrical problem that I am
currently having with my mower, I posted outlining
my problem last week and was answered by a couple
of very helpful individuals.
I still however have been unable to arrive at the cause.
The point that I am now at is with the stator.
As I'm sure you know, the stator has 18 poles.
If you are standing over the stator, looking down, with the two
unwound poles at the 12 o'clock position, the first five poles
(clockwise) get hot when the key is turned to the right in either
of the two positions before start.
The remaining poles remain cool.
The wires that I repaired also begin to heat up.
Would this indicate a bad stator or a problem else where?
I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could take a moment
to get up to speed with my dilemma at
Please feel free to provide any suggestions that you feel
Any further insight is greatly appreciated.
03-15-2007, 09:05 PM
Sorry Mark, Didn't mean to leave you hanging got called out of town.
Post me the model number off the white label (maybe under the seat) off the tractor. I would like to pull up the wire diagram.
03-16-2007, 12:45 AM
No problem. I'm just happy to have a couple of guys
willing to take the time to help out with my problem.
I was downsized out of my job last year and am trying
to keep from the expense of hauling the thing to the
local repair shop.
I went to the parts dept at the local Sears to try to gain
more insight into the yellow and black wires from the
harness that tie in with the black wire from the stator
in a “Y” configuration (the location where I attempted
to solder it back together) but was not able to find out
From what I have read, there may be an inline diode
where the wire came loose and it should not be resoldered
without replacing the diode but I am not sure if that applies
to my mower.
There appears to be a tiny piece (1/8 inch) of hard wire at
the “Y” but the yellow wire came loose just before it.
Also, I tried a continuity check between all of the stator leads
(lead to lead) and all of them read 0.3 - 0.5
Ok, the Craftsman M.N. is: 917.259556
Thanks Again for the help.
03-16-2007, 09:32 PM
OK Mark, The place you repaired the wires; Was it on a short pigtail going between the main tractor harness and the stator as below or between the stator and the plug connector ?
I really don't believe all three wires should be tied together as seen in the engine wire diagram I posted before. The hard wire you speak of is what's left of the diode. The diode is supposed to let voltage run in one direction only so not to back-feed voltage to the stator, Which is probably why the stator and wires are heating up when you turn the key on.
03-18-2007, 09:22 PM
Sorry for the delay, but I wanted to take a picture of the wiring
to hopefully help you gain more insight into what was what.
The BLACK wire (just above the GREEN one in the pic) goes to the
stator. he end pictured is supposed to be attached to the end
of what appears to be the small piece of hard wire that I
previously referred to on the end of the YELLOW wire.
For some reason, the picture looks considerably darker in the
attachment than the actual photo. Please let me know if you
need for me to try to lighten it up a bit.
Thanks Again for your time.
03-19-2007, 11:29 AM
Your stator has three wires coming off of it:
Black - 12 volt, 3 amp DC charging wire that should be connected to battery positive
Yellow - 70 watt AC voltage accessory wire for lighting
Green - stator brake
That should help you figure this out. Get it wired correctly and I think your overheating problems should end if the stator is ruined.
03-19-2007, 08:43 PM
Thank You for your reply Crankshaft.
The problem is that the first five poles on the stator started over
heating AFTER the initial repair (in the photo) was made.
The BLACK wire that leads to the stator has since come loose
and needs to be resoldered.
I'm wondering if doing so will be sufficient or if I should also go
ahead and replace the stator.
Thanks Again for the help.
03-19-2007, 09:43 PM
. The hard wire you speak of is what's left of the diode. The diode is supposed to let voltage run in one direction only so not to back-feed voltage to the stator, Which is probably why the stator and wires are heating up when you turn the key on.
You notice in the diagram none of the three stator wires should be connected to each other.
You have two choices, Buy a new stator and be done with it (which I see the plug connector in your pic.) or install a new diode and hope the stator is not burned up or shorted out.
03-20-2007, 10:07 AM
Listen to Rob - I forgot about that diode in there. The stator actually produces AC voltage, but DC is needed for charging, that is why the diode is there. It may be causing the problems of overheating like stated.
Diode 2575531-S List $9
Stator 1208508-S List $40
Get those wires off of each other!
03-20-2007, 10:09 AM
Get it wired correctly and I think your overheating problems should end if the stator isn't ruined.
Why can't I edit my post?
03-20-2007, 12:09 PM
Why can't I edit my post?
They only give a couple minutes to edit a post, If you tried with-in that time something else happened ?
03-20-2007, 05:55 PM
Rob and Crank,
Thanks Again for your responses.
I don't want to be a pain in the butt here and I apologize if
I am missing something, but, I only have two wires coming
off of the stator (a GREEN and BLACK one as shown in pic
#2) No YELLOW.
The BLACK wire coming from the stator is the one that is
visible just above the GREEN wire shown in the first pic that
It was connected to the BLACK wire inside the shrink wrap
awhen I unwrapped it and it came loose after all of my fiddling.
The GREEN wire goes to the single YELLOW wire with the
connector shown in pic #3.
My current question is, if I only have the GREEN and BLACK
wires coming from the stator,
the BLACK wire from the from the harness (shown in pic #4
still wrongly attached to the YELLOW wire) should be removed
from theYELLOW wire and connected to it,
where do I connect the end of YELLOW wire?
I know that it ties into the diode somehow, and the diagram shows
it tying into the stator, but I can't for the life of me figure out where
Thanks AGAIN for your help.
03-20-2007, 10:28 PM
There are two wire diagrams and two test procedures in Kohler's FACTORY service manual for the 3 amp un-regulated charging system. One is for CV11 through CV15, The other is for the CV16. Both diagrams show a yellow (lights)wire connected to the stator separated from the black and green wires. Both explain a test procedure for the yellow wire by un-plugging the stator from the unit harness.
I really don't know what else to say...... :confused:
At $40 I would have bought a new stator from the get-go.
03-21-2007, 10:57 AM
You are missing a wiring on the stator. That yellow wire in the harness goes to the yellow wire from the stator, green one goes to the green one, black goes to the black one (with diode!). If you insist on not buying a stator, then whatever the yellow wire leads to will not work (AC voltage for lights usually). If you are doing this, get the diode in there the right way, and splice the black wires together, hook up the stator brake, and leave the yellow wire disconnected. The proper way of course:
Stator 12 085 08-S
03-29-2007, 01:07 PM
Rob and Crank,
I ordered a new stator and installed it per your instructions.
The mower started right up and ran with no problems.
No hot wires, stator, ect.
However, when I tried to test the lights, they shone "VERY"
brightly for about a second and then went out. (?)
03-29-2007, 01:16 PM
Anvil, you might have a high voltage situation where you blew out the filaments of the lights due to high voltage. You should start the machine and check your battery voltage. It should be between 13.5-14.5 volts. Anything more could damage the lights which means that you have a regulator issue.
03-30-2007, 07:04 AM
Anything more could damage the lights which means that you have a regulator issue.
So not to be confusing, This unit has a NON regulated charging system.
Mark, It's possible the bulbs were damaged with all the wire shorting (improperly soldered) wires. Before bumping heads over another issue replace at-least one bulb and see if it continues to burn. However, Remember the lights operate on AC voltage so a regular 12 volt bulb will do the same as you said happened to the original bulbs. In other words, Get the proper bulb for your unit.
04-03-2007, 11:04 AM
I agree with Rob. You initially had the lights wired to a 12 volt DC supply, now they are wired to a 70 watt AC voltage supply. HMM?
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