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View Full Version : Removing blades to sharpen???


4curbappeal
03-29-2007, 01:58 PM
I am trying to remove old blades to sharpen or replace on one of my walkbehinds and can't get it to budge. The other blade came off fairly easy, but the larger one closest to the discharge chute will not move. I don't have an impact wrench, but have never needed one! Any suggestions??? Thanks

Bill Kapaun
03-29-2007, 02:04 PM
Box end wrench and a piece of pipe as a "cheater" bar.

4curbappeal
03-29-2007, 02:22 PM
Box end wrench and a piece of pipe as a "cheater" bar.


Not working either! I really don't want to take it to the dealer. Any more ideas?

Total.Lawn.Care
03-29-2007, 02:27 PM
Are you blocking the blade in the deck so that the spindle and blade cannot move?

4curbappeal
03-29-2007, 02:37 PM
Are you blocking the blade in the deck so that the spindle and blade cannot move?


Yes, after a few minutes to rest and calm down I put my ass into it a little and got it! Thanks everyone!!!

Total.Lawn.Care
03-29-2007, 02:40 PM
Grease the spindle bolts before you put them back. It will help a little for next time....

SLR
03-29-2007, 10:26 PM
Heating bolt would have been an option,just as long as it wasn't overly torched'n'tempered.

DJL50
03-29-2007, 10:59 PM
I have a cheap air impact wrench like you get at Harbor Freight for $20. Works good for my needs. I once had a blade bolt that would not come off. Tried a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' black pipe and bent the breaker bar. Air wrench also did not work. I had a can of Teflon lube that comes in a blue can from Lowe’s. (Displayed with the WD40 etc…) sprayed it on and let it set for 1/2 hour or so. That bolt came off with a regular hand wrench. I have a lot of woodworking equipment I use the stuff on because when it dries, it will not attract dust like oil will.

khouse
03-30-2007, 09:05 AM
I always apply anti seize compound to the threads and just under the head of the bolt. Any auto parts store will have it.

Duekster
03-30-2007, 09:09 AM
I have never used this method on a mower but a little WD 40. Then you put a hammer or something on one side of the bolt as a back up. Just hold it firmly against one side and then lightly tap the other side. Then repeat moving around the bold. It should come right off. This helps work the WD 40 in and break the bond/rust.

a little grease is a good idea once it is loose and you put it back on.

DLCS
03-30-2007, 02:40 PM
I always apply anti seize compound to the threads and just under the head of the bolt. Any auto parts store will have it.



Best advice!/\
I alwasy use anti sieze on the blade bolts, makes removal so much easier.



Also, if you don't have a impact and a compressor, try a tire shop. Ask them if they can loosen it for you.

topsites
03-31-2007, 09:02 PM
Soak with wd-40, let sit overnight.
Still don't come off?
Soak with Liquid wrench, wait another night.

Oh yeah, it's not reverse thread, is it?

Mark in MD
04-10-2007, 07:59 AM
Make sure you install with a flat washer at the head, so that the corners of the head of the bolt do dig in and lock up.

Countrybois
04-12-2007, 06:52 AM
Anti-seize is your friend. Great advice to use it on your blade bolts and EVERY bolt you may ever want to remove. It also works better than grease for lubing pivot points that don't have grease fittings and for your anti-scalps. Try it.

jkingrph
04-12-2007, 08:33 AM
I use the aluminized anti seize from Loctite. Cannot remember the grade but it works great. It fills and seals the screw joint to prevent corrosion and it sure breaks free much easier. One application lasts for many on and off's. It comes in a applicator tube much like a stick deodorant.