PDA

View Full Version : help with deck adjustment ,fixed deck ???


turfeater
04-14-2007, 10:37 AM
Looking for some advice on deck adjustment on a ferris walk behind its a 36 ultrabelt ,,, I have some customers who like there grass a bit shorter even after suggesting not to ,,,2 " to 2 1/4 " ,,, My question is this,, is it best to set the rear of the deck a little shorter or higher ..as I can't get it near level
to go up to higher levels on other lawns ... because as you know the fast adjust is on the front .. and I need to drop the rear to the lower bolt setting..
thanks already ron

pclawncare
04-14-2007, 12:45 PM
This exact reason was 99% of the reason i got rid of my 36" w/b man it was a pita especialy since about 50 to 60% of my yards have areas of bermuda which is cut short and fescue which is cut tall man its a pita. I know what you are going through.

turfeater
04-14-2007, 01:45 PM
My main question ,, is it better to have the front of the mower a little higher ot the rear ? Thanks Ron

pclawncare
04-14-2007, 01:52 PM
well i dont know on w/bbut i know when i was scalping with my walker i tried it out w the rear about 1/4 in higher than front and front 1/4 higher than rear to see how it performed or if it was better at level. I founf the front being higher than the rear worked best for me and didnt seem to bog the engine down as much.

khouse
04-14-2007, 02:57 PM
I would say that running the front 1/4 to 3/8 lower in front is good. That way your blade is cutting the grass once. If it's tilted the other way you blade cuts the grass twice.

pclawncare
04-14-2007, 03:03 PM
I agree with k house as for regular mowing but for me when i was scalping there is so much volume that it needs to be cut short once and then shorter again which raising the front provides

MowerMedic77
04-14-2007, 03:18 PM
Most mower blades have an air foil on the back part of the blade this is designed to create a vacuum effect under your deck so when your front tires flatten the grass a combination of your blade speed and the blades air foil help to pull the grass up so it can be cut. You need to have the rear of the deck at least 1/4 higher in the rear so that this process can happen. If the blade is perfectly level front to rear the vacuum effect is not as great and you also run the risk of grass clumping and not being discharged from under your deck properly.
I hope this helps:)

turfeater
04-14-2007, 03:27 PM
Thanks for the advice ,,I tried to sping for a used hydro wb but could not swing that this year . I just bought a 48" IS1500 zero ....for my mid sized lawns ...
So I'm stuck with this 36 ,,,a year or two,, If the 12.5 kaw has enough power ,,Im planing on mulching most of the lawns it will do ...so maybe cutting the grass twice would help break it down faster ? I have three customers who want bagged and don't want to pay the extra , go figure ^$%# ... I too remember from my old self propelled trim mower that when set low it struggled to go forward ,,as the grass was catching the front end . And thus useing extra power ..so I would set the front up a notch..
Question would be ,what would use more hp up..
cutting twice or front of mower pushing thru the grass ,,,guess it would depend on how tall the grass is and how low the front is ..... who knows

turfeater
04-14-2007, 03:41 PM
Most mower blades have an air foil on the back part of the blade this is designed to create a vacuum effect under your deck so when your front tires flatten the grass a combination of your blade speed and the blades air foil help to pull the grass up so it can be cut. You need to have the rear of the deck at least 1/4 higher in the rear so that this process can happen. If the blade is perfectly level front to rear the vacuum effect is not as great and you also run the risk of grass clumping and not being discharged from under your deck properly.
I hope this helps:)

Must be some strange aerodynamics going on . why would ,{,not that I doubt but trying to understand} would the vacuum be more with the blade tilted slightly ? Seems like the further you go away from the ground,,, front or back it would start looseing vac ? also the distance the deck is to the ground has to play a roll ... surface area that air is rushing in ???

Well ,,if you can't tell its raining.sometimes. snowing here in ohio ,,not much to do ,and have to much time on my hands ...time to go fix something ..........

MowerMedic77
04-14-2007, 04:42 PM
The first inch or two of the forward blade tip is doing 90% or more of the cutting, on a 36" mower the cut grass volume is not as great as say on a 52"or 60" deck but the vacuum is very Strong none the less. Think of the amount of space from the top of the blade to the bottom of the deck, most manufactures have decks ranging from 3-5 inches deep. Yes a 1/4" is not a huge difference, but without it the new uncut grass entering your deck at 4-6 mph for a w/b and 6-10+ for riders and the cut old grass trying to be discharged are competing for less volume with every inch of grass height being removed. Are you going to say you have never seen an object in the lawn that you were avoiding but got too close and it got sucked up under the deck anyway?

Bill Kapaun
04-15-2007, 12:34 AM
" Question would be ,what would use more hp up..
cutting twice or front of mower pushing thru the grass ,,,guess it would depend on how tall the grass is and how low the front is ..... who knows.."

How about cutting a narrower swath once????

khouse
04-15-2007, 12:53 AM
It is my opinion that having the deck a little down in front would take less hp. How much? I have no clue. If the blade is only cutting in the front half and not touching the grass in the back half seems optimal. If tilted the other way the front and rear halves are in contact with the grass. That would not seem optimal in my mind. I guess it might be like the fly landing on an I-beam. Will it bend? Theoretically it does.