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View Full Version : ??changing Hydro Fluid Exmark??


milsaps118
04-16-2007, 10:35 AM
I want to change the hydro fluid on my 52" Lazer but never done this before. Is there anything specific I have to do? How do I do it?

Thanks

milsaps118
04-16-2007, 08:13 PM
No one here has changed there hydro fluid before on an Exmark?

MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE
04-16-2007, 08:35 PM
Hang on they will start.

GarPA
04-17-2007, 02:18 AM
this is one task I let my dealer do. It can be tricky to make sure you dont get air in the line....not worth the aggravation it cost me once when I did it

haybaler
04-17-2007, 08:42 AM
ya, don't do it. the hydro components are the most expensive thing on the mower. Exmark manual actually says don't change the oil, Just the filter and replace whatever oil u lose in the process, because you don't want to contaminate the oil at all. but U can still get air in there just from changing the filter. It only needs to be done once per year so just have the dealer do it.

desii
04-17-2007, 08:44 AM
I have 60" Lazers, so I'm not sure if they are different from yours. Since the Hydro Resevoir is above the filter, I just remove the filter and all of the fluid drains out into the pan below. Once that's finished, just install a new filter and fluid. Mine uses exactly 1 qt of 5W50 Mobil 1 Synthetic.

I'm not sure if you can/should drain the pump/motors too, but I don't.

Your going to have some air in the lines. Just start the machine and give it a few minutes and it will clear up and you can move the machine. I just did all 4 of mine and had no problems.

Good luck and it's really that simple.

milsaps118
04-17-2007, 08:50 AM
I have 60" Lazers, so I'm not sure if they are different from yours. Since the Hydro Resevoir is above the filter, I just remove the filter and all of the fluid drains out into the pan below. Once that's finished, just install a new filter and fluid. Mine uses exactly 1 qt of 5W50 Mobil 1 Synthetic.

I'm not sure if you can/should drain the pump/motors too, but I don't.

Your going to have some air in the lines. Just start the machine and give it a few minutes and it will clear up and you can move the machine. I just did all 4 of mine and had no problems.

Good luck and it's really that simple.

I also have a 60 lazer and my 52 has the exact same set up as the 60. One filter on each side with the reservoir up top under the seat. I'll change it my self, if I F*$K it up then I'll have the dealer do it.

haybaler
04-17-2007, 08:58 AM
I have 60" Lazers, so I'm not sure if they are different from yours. Since the Hydro Resevoir is above the filter, I just remove the filter and all of the fluid drains out into the pan below. Once that's finished, just install a new filter and fluid. Mine uses exactly 1 qt of 5W50 Mobil 1 Synthetic.

I'm not sure if you can/should drain the pump/motors too, but I don't.

Your going to have some air in the lines. Just start the machine and give it a few minutes and it will clear up and you can move the machine. I just did all 4 of mine and had no problems.

Good luck and it's really that simple.

when he gets air in the system and trys to move it are you going to pay him a $1000 bucks to replace his hydro pumps? it's not responsable of you to say it's easy. After you change the fluid U should always let the machine sit overnight and then jack up the rear wheels and very slowly go in forward then reverse at an idle. that will purge any air without destroying anything.

milsaps118
04-17-2007, 09:04 AM
I changed my mind, just called the dealer and they are going to service it. HAYBALER made a good point.

Roger
04-17-2007, 09:11 AM
I have an Exmark Viking w/b. It is nine years old, and I have changed hydro fluid every off-season. It uses one quart of Mobil 1 15W-50, just like mentioned above. I don't know how different the hydro is on the Lazer.

With regard to air in the system, fill the new filter full of fluid before mounting. Others have said this on LS, and I have followed that advice. Put the remainder of the quart into the reservoir. When following this procedure, I have found the hydro to work well right away. There is no purging of air in the system.

haybaler
04-17-2007, 02:47 PM
I changed my mind, just called the dealer and they are going to service it. HAYBALER made a good point.

Thank you. I think it's great for everyone to want to do there own service and I don't mind helping, but some times it just makes sence to let someone do it that does it every day. you'll sleep better at night.

razor1
04-17-2007, 03:42 PM
I must agree with Roger. "fill the new filter full of fluid before mounting"
You may have to top off the filter a few times as it seeps down. (my opinion)

I do all of my own Hydro changes and never had a problem.
Call Exmark @ 1-402-223-6300 with any questions.

milsaps118
04-17-2007, 06:27 PM
I dropped off the mower this morning to have them change the Hydro fluid and filter and they looked everything over for under $80.00. Well worth the $$ and peace of mind.

My luck if I would have did it myself I would have air locked the system and F@*K something up.

Thanks for the responses!!!:drinkup: :drinkup:

desii
04-17-2007, 10:48 PM
I dropped off the mower this morning to have them change the Hydro fluid and filter and they looked everything over for under $80.00. Well worth the $$ and peace of mind.

My luck if I would have did it myself I would have air locked the system and F@*K something up.

Thanks for the responses!!!:drinkup: :drinkup:

That's great, I'm glad it worked out for you. FYI...I did 4 machines and did'nt spend that much, but better safe than sorry if you don't have any experience in this type of repair. I'm not trying to be sarcastic here, I truly think you did the right thing in this circumstance.

when he gets air in the system and trys to move it are you going to pay him a $1000 bucks to replace his hydro pumps? it's not responsable of you to say it's easy. After you change the fluid U should always let the machine sit overnight and then jack up the rear wheels and very slowly go in forward then reverse at an idle. that will purge any air without destroying anything.

So, letting the machine "sit" overnight will help purge the air. Please. Is this what you do when you bleed your brakes, too? I did forget to mention that you should fill the filter also :nono: and thanks to those that pointed it out.

I was only trying to help the guy save a few bucks and would never tell him to do something that I have not already done. I don't think I was in anyway irresponsible (please note spelling) in saying that it was easy as I found it to be quite simple and would never spend $80 bucks for something that takes about 15-20 minutes per machine. I'd like to know what, if anything, a dealer does that is different from what has been described here.

Gruneich Lawn Care, Inc.
04-17-2007, 11:21 PM
Just make sure you fill the filter with oil, let it set for 15 mins, add more oil, let sit, add more oil, let sit, add more well you get the point. The filter can easly hold 3/4 of a quart pretty easy, take old filter off, spin new filter on, it will be messy, oil will get all over the filter, add enough oil to bring up to the cold line in the resivor, start machine, bring it to about 1/2 throttle, and slowly work the hydros back and forth with back tires off ground. Do that for 15 minutes, and top off, and you should be fine. I let mine sit overnight also, usually dont have to add any oil the next morning. Its really easy to do, just make sure to buy a exmark filter, and get as much air out of the filter, and fill fill fill with oil :)

DJL50
04-17-2007, 11:47 PM
I am the first one to take something to the dealer if I feel just a little bit unsure of what i am doing. Changing the Hydro-oil is not one of them. That would be like taking your ZTR to the dealer to have gas put in it. One of the easiest things to do. Air in the line is going to work it's way out and not cause any problems. The dealer has no special trick to do this than what others have mentioned here. Most dealers are not going to have their top mechanics changing oil. They most likely will get the new kid to do it.
My dealer also said to fill the filter first, then install. I followed the manual that said to spin the filter on a turn. Fill the reservoir with oil till it starts to overflow the filter. Then screw the filter on tight. Guess that is the same as filling first. Just another way around it.

Gruneich Lawn Care, Inc.
04-18-2007, 12:18 AM
My dealer actually took me in the shop and showed me how to do it on a mower that he was doing, its really nothing hard at all....

haybaler
04-18-2007, 07:40 AM
That's great, I'm glad it worked out for you. FYI...I did 4 machines and did'nt spend that much, but better safe than sorry if you don't have any experience in this type of repair. I'm not trying to be sarcastic here, I truly think you did the right thing in this circumstance.



So, letting the machine "sit" overnight will help purge the air. Please. Is this what you do when you bleed your brakes, too? I did forget to mention that you should fill the filter also :nono: and thanks to those that pointed it out.

I was only trying to help the guy save a few bucks and would never tell him to do something that I have not already done. I don't think I was in anyway irresponsible (please note spelling) in saying that it was easy as I found it to be quite simple and would never spend $80 bucks for something that takes about 15-20 minutes per machine. I'd like to know what, if anything, a dealer does that is different from what has been described here.

no, that's not how I bleed my brakes. don't compare apples to oranges. Also that is exactly what my Husqvarna zero turn manual says to do and that was written by engineers. they have pretty much the same hydro setup and I also have an exmark that I've done this on. The way the system is set up it automaticly purges the air when you drive, but if your going full bore off the bat you can do some serious damage if there's any air in the system. I'm sure your shortening the life of your mowers and not knowing it. Like I said, jack the rear wheels up and run it at an idle for about 5 minutes as you go forward then reverse. And for a guy that's not sure about this $80 bucks a year is cheap.

haybaler
04-18-2007, 07:50 AM
I am the first one to take something to the dealer if I feel just a little bit unsure of what i am doing. Changing the Hydro-oil is not one of them. That would be like taking your ZTR to the dealer to have gas put in it. One of the easiest things to do. Air in the line is going to work it's way out and not cause any problems. The dealer has no special trick to do this than what others have mentioned here. Most dealers are not going to have their top mechanics changing oil. They most likely will get the new kid to do it.
My dealer also said to fill the filter first, then install. I followed the manual that said to spin the filter on a turn. Fill the reservoir with oil till it starts to overflow the filter. Then screw the filter on tight. Guess that is the same as filling first. Just another way around it.

no, it's not the same as filling the filter first. any mechanic knows to fill the filter first. leaving the filter loose while your filling the reservoir until the oil comes out gets the air out of all the other components. Think about it, when you take the filter off and all the oil drains out of the hoses and reservoir, what do you think it gets replaced with? AIR! I'm getting really sick of this thread. the guy got his question answered he did the right thing and he's happy. I'm just trying to save everyone money buy telling them the final step in changing you oil that Garuntees you won't have premature component failure caused by air in the system. Also it's very important to properly tighten the filter, i've seen many filters loosen up that haven't been tightened enough and then they suck air in.

desii
04-18-2007, 08:10 PM
I, too, am getting sick of this thread, but nothing like beating a dead horse, huh...LOL. So, let me see if I get this right....First you leave the filter loose to get the air out (I will agree with you there), then if the fiter loosens you will "suck air in"? Seems to me as if you would blow oil out.

I know I'm being a jerk here as the guy has already gotten the work done. But you say you want to save him money as does everyone else on here, but you tell him to go spend $80 bucks on a 10 minute job that, as EVERYONE else is saying, is a pretty simple task. He asked for info on how to do it and that is what we gave him, from our experience. I "assumed" that he was mechanically able, or he wouldn't have asked in the first place. :hammerhead:

OK, I'm done. *trucewhiteflag*

haybaler
04-18-2007, 08:24 PM
I, too, am getting sick of this thread, but nothing like beating a dead horse, huh...LOL. So, let me see if I get this right....First you leave the filter loose to get the air out (I will agree with you there), then if the fiter loosens you will "suck air in"? Seems to me as if you would blow oil out.

I know I'm being a jerk here as the guy has already gotten the work done. But you say you want to save him money as does everyone else on here, but you tell him to go spend $80 bucks on a 10 minute job that, as EVERYONE else is saying, is a pretty simple task. He asked for info on how to do it and that is what we gave him, from our experience. I "assumed" that he was mechanically able, or he wouldn't have asked in the first place. :hammerhead:

OK, I'm done. *trucewhiteflag*

you obviously don't have any clue how the system works. when you leave the filter loose until the oil comes out the machine is shut off. when the machine is running the pumps are sucking oil (and air if the filter is loose) through the filter, not pushing it through. frickin idiots.

desii
04-18-2007, 08:27 PM
Dude, (Mr. Haybaler), relax. I'm just messin' with you. Didn't you see my truce flag? :)

haybaler
04-18-2007, 08:31 PM
sorry i didn't, people were starting to AGGREGATE me