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View Full Version : Best broadleaf control in spring


jfgold
04-22-2007, 11:40 AM
Hello, I am a recently licensed applicator and wanted some opinions on the best broadleaf control that could be put down in conjunction with a spring fertilizer w/dimension. There are a couple choices that my suppliers have and I just was looking for what the good and bad about all of them are. The ones that I am looking at are Super Trimec, Horsepower and Momentum. Sweeney recommends a sticker for the horsepower. Do you use stickers and are they worth the extra $$. My choices for vendors are Sweeney seed (closest) Shemin and Lesco. Sweeney wants 157.00 for 2 1/2 gallons of horsepower which is on the large side for quantity for me. I'd like to stick with a gallon size if possible. Thanks in advance for your time, this is an awesome site!

indyturf
04-22-2007, 11:44 AM
I use a 3 way weed control like triplet or trimec992 or classic. cost about $17 per gallon in 55 gal drum, $55-$60 in 2.5 gal. I don't use a sticker and get very good results.

RAlmaroad
04-22-2007, 02:03 PM
Is your grass Fescue? If so Trimec is great...Speedzone is another that I use a lot here in TN. Speedzone is about $100/gal, Lesco's Three-Way is about $55 and Southern Speedzone (less 2-4D) is about 55/gal. On our fescue the Trimec does the best. When you state:"-best broadleaf control that could be put down in conjunction with a spring fertilizer w/dimension." You're not planning to put it down at the same time are you? Post Chems should be used when the weeds and grass are a little further alone maybe 4-6 weeks.
Some others a little further north may have a better choice.

LwnmwrMan22
04-22-2007, 04:45 PM
Is your grass Fescue? If so Trimec is great...Speedzone is another that I use a lot here in TN. Speedzone is about $100/gal, Lesco's Three-Way is about $55 and Southern Speedzone (less 2-4D) is about 55/gal. On our fescue the Trimec does the best. When you state:"-best broadleaf control that could be put down in conjunction with a spring fertilizer w/dimension." You're not planning to put it down at the same time are you? Post Chems should be used when the weeds and grass are a little further alone maybe 4-6 weeks.
Some others a little further north may have a better choice.

This is the advice you need to follow. I realize your soil temps are probably higher than mine, and your season is 2-3, maybe 4 weeks earlier than mine, but with that said, if you haven't already had your pre-emergent down yet, then you don't need to be applying post emergent.

Mid to late May is the ideal for a spring time application.

Personally I use Momentum.

jc1
04-22-2007, 04:52 PM
If spot spraying with a back pack sprayer is it advisable to mix at the 1 oz per gallon of water or should it be a lighter mixture. I know that it should be 1 oz per 1k. But I'm talking about wandering through a lawn hitting only the dandelions and not blanketing the area.

Nathan Robinson
04-22-2007, 05:01 PM
Stickers are a waste of money and only beneficial with wild violets. On wild violets make sure you spray them under the leaf. The top of the leaf has a waxy substance on them and can be hard to control. Just use a basic 3way. Horsepower is very good. Prob the best that riverdale has to offer. I use a 3way and see very good results. Nathan

Shades of Green LService
04-22-2007, 11:33 PM
Lesco 3 way, momentum fx2 and trimec plus are what i use. Was also hoping to try Q4, if i can get it.

bntt68
04-22-2007, 11:36 PM
I use surfactants on all my weed control apps. Does anyone else use surfactants or stickers. I also get excellent control. Just curious.

Shades of Green LService
04-22-2007, 11:42 PM
I use surfactants on all my weed control apps. Does anyone else use surfactants or stickers. I also get excellent control. Just curious.

I've heard dish detergent works just as well.

LwnmwrMan22
04-22-2007, 11:55 PM
I use surfactants on all my weed control apps. Does anyone else use surfactants or stickers. I also get excellent control. Just curious.

I've tried with and without spreader sticker from Lesco.

I BELIEVE I get better control, rainfast faster with the sticker.

FdLLawnMan
04-23-2007, 12:07 AM
I use surfactants on all my weed control apps. Does anyone else use surfactants or stickers. I also get excellent control. Just curious.

For the minimum extra cost it is rain fast quicker. I know it helps on white clover and ground ivy. Using sticker I have never had to spray under the leaf to get rid of wild violets. Worth the money IMO.

Mike I
Mike's Total Lawn Care

EJK2352
04-23-2007, 12:14 AM
Lesco 3 way, momentum fx2 and trimec plus are what i use. Was also hoping to try Q4, if i can get it.

Q4 is AWESOME stuff. I had a local ag. chem. supplier order some for me last year. We had some serious crab break thru last season in my area. Nutsedge and broadleaf weeds were a real problem in many lawns too. Q4 cleaned them up nicely. Its alot easier to mix than Drive (no methylated seed oil needed). Highly recommended.

RigglePLC
04-23-2007, 08:20 AM
Last year i used a bottle of dish detergent in each 400 gallon tank. Cost $1. I believe it helped improve the action of 3-Way. This year I plan to use a commercial silicone surfactant. At about 2 ounces per 100 gallons.

9Tman
04-23-2007, 12:57 PM
Hello all, I recently fertilized a client and some streaks were left. Nothing substantial, but apparently didn't get a good overlap. Can anything be done to correct this and even out the green in the lawn?

PR Fect
04-23-2007, 03:01 PM
Hello, I am a recently licensed applicator and wanted some opinions on the best broadleaf control that could be put down in conjunction with a spring fertilizer w/dimension. There are a couple choices that my suppliers have and I just was looking for what the good and bad about all of them are. The ones that I am looking at are Super Trimec, Horsepower and Momentum. Sweeney recommends a sticker for the horsepower. Do you use stickers and are they worth the extra $$. My choices for vendors are Sweeney seed (closest) Shemin and Lesco. Sweeney wants 157.00 for 2 1/2 gallons of horsepower which is on the large side for quantity for me. I'd like to stick with a gallon size if possible. Thanks in advance for your time, this is an awesome site!

Go back after you get your Dimension down. Start with the basics. Three-Way, Tri-mec, Triplit all are about the same, and low cost, and easy to use. If you have the budget, and you have a problem, you can go with the "fancy" stuff later when you gain some field experience. PR

indyturf
04-23-2007, 06:03 PM
Hello all, I recently fertilized a client and some streaks were left. Nothing substantial, but apparently didn't get a good overlap. Can anything be done to correct this and even out the green in the lawn?

go back and fertilize the spots that were missed!

9Tman
04-23-2007, 06:05 PM
Should I cut back on the ratio so I don't create even more stripes, or keep it the same?

Thanks for the input.

MrBarefoot
04-23-2007, 07:04 PM
I use surfactants on all my weed control apps. Does anyone else use surfactants or stickers. I also get excellent control. Just curious.

I use the Lesco spreader sticker and I have found it improves performance.

My mix is Trimec992 + Quicksilver.

indyturf
04-23-2007, 08:05 PM
Should I cut back on the ratio so I don't create even more stripes, or keep it the same?

Thanks for the input.

I would keep it the same, check it out in a couple weeks and if its still streaked I would just do the whole lawn again. then on the next application go a little bit lighter on the fertilizer.

RAlmaroad
04-23-2007, 08:13 PM
Barefoot: Could I ask why the Quicksilver in your mix? Don't Trimec will get nearly all of the cold season grass weeds? Just wondering. Seems like that would stress most grasses if you use the recommeded A.I./K.

M.C.L.C.
04-23-2007, 08:26 PM
My company and i have tend to lean toward speedzone in the spring, tends to work awesome in the cool weather. Usually see results in 2-3 days max. We normally use a surfactant....usually chemsurf 90, though i hear its basically soap. Later on in the season once it starts to warm up we switch to either Trimec of Surge. I personally think Surge is the better of the two product though it is more expensive, but happy customers = more money. This season i have my own management truck to cruise around in a check out random lawns....i carry Q4 in my tank. I must say it works great and seeing as how i dont use a whole lot its fine, but this stuff is expensive!

:usflag:

MrBarefoot
04-24-2007, 06:57 PM
Barefoot: Could I ask why the Quicksilver in your mix? Don't Trimec will get nearly all of the cold season grass weeds? Just wondering. Seems like that would stress most grasses if you use the recommeded A.I./K.

I use a Perma Green, and I noticed that when I switched from hand spraying to PG spraying, there was a big decrease in weed control. I experimented with several products in order to get the same level of weed control that I achieved with hand spraying. I found it when I added Quicksilver to the mix. Trimec 992 and Quicksilver is roughly equal to SpeedZone, which worked well for me until my local supplier stopped carrying it. So now I mix my own and it works great. Great control on many tough weeds, rain fast in less then 1 hour, visible damage the same day and I have not seen any stress on the grass after a treatment.

I use the minimum amount of AI for both products.

americanlawn
04-24-2007, 08:10 PM
UAP's LI 700 rules.

9Tman
06-06-2007, 09:56 AM
Hey folks, I have a client whose sod was installed about four years ago on compacted clay soil and she says it has never really looked good. She has irrigation and has been on a regular fertilization program since installation with no luck. It looks to me like there is quite a build up of thatch, but I'm second guessing myself since it is a relatively new lawn. Could it need dethatched and overseeded? I'm trying to avoid ripping up the entire lot and starting over by seed.

Any thoughts would be appreciate.

9Tman

PR Fect
06-06-2007, 02:07 PM
Hey folks, I have a client whose sod was installed about four years ago on compacted clay soil and she says it has never really looked good. She has irrigation and has been on a regular fertilization program since installation with no luck. It looks to me like there is quite a build up of thatch, but I'm second guessing myself since it is a relatively new lawn. Could it need dethatched and overseeded? I'm trying to avoid ripping up the entire lot and starting over by seed.

Any thoughts would be appreciate.

9Tman

Not sure why you posted this on this thread but, aeration, aeration, aeration. Core aeration being the best. New sod needs to be aerated. Do it twice, now and again this fall. That thatchy look will go away, and her lawn will look even better!