View Full Version : Cracked lazer front frame
08-04-2001, 09:13 PM
This is a picture of the crack. It has been fixed once already but its cracking again so I will replace it. One of my workers hit something hard enough to bend the weight bar to a V, but does not know how it happened. "must of just broke or something" Just wondering if this has happened to anybody else.
08-04-2001, 09:52 PM
Is this a common problem with the Lazer. I have a Toro which I think is the same frame. If this is common I guess I should look out for it.
08-04-2001, 10:17 PM
not common, just abused.
08-04-2001, 10:33 PM
It also looks like the mower has a considerable number of hours on it. These machines do wear out.
That crack is not the result of one impact to the weight bar, in order to do that from one hit the frame would be bent badly. What you've got is a crack resulting from long term stresses being concentrated right at the end of the plate where the lift quadrant attaches. Too many hours of running too fast over rough ground. I tend to run my Lazer pretty hot and heavy but so far nothing like that has shown up.
Easy to fix, obviously it wasn't done right the first time. The tube needs to be ground out to allow a full penetration weld. Then any reinforcing plates should be tapered on the ends to spread the stress over more area than the square cut plates allow. Look at reinforcing plates (factory done) on an excavator or backhoe boom, they end in a taper, and often the welds trail off onto the plate before they end.
Repeated, low magnitude vibration can destroy some very heavy steel sections. The load they create is small, compared to major impacts which would deform rather than break, but when there is something to localize the stress things crack.
I could do a stick weld glob-job blindfolded better than that! Come on~! If it was a newer machine, just get a left side outrigger and replace it.
08-05-2001, 12:14 AM
Looks like to me the exact spot where everything flex's, and therefore caused a stress fracture. I think your guys are doing some jumps or something to cause that..haha. Anyway as stated above, get a certified welder to fix it right and you should be all set to go. I would also weld the other side because that area is a weak link now, with one side already cracked. Also do a really good visual check for everything around the same spot above and below, you may have more damage than you can tell. May also be time for a new mower!
mine is 6 yrs old and looks new next to that one.
man that baby is living hard. it worries me that i may do something to get mine off square but despite some pretty good licks ,everything is the same as new. not many mowers woulk hold up as well as this lazer.
08-05-2001, 01:14 AM
awm, if I remember right, you bought that used this spring. That had some low hours on it for that old. I've put 600 hours on a 2001 and I only mow 3.5 days a week, so you must work less than me. :D
I agree with others, that frame looks like it has had a rough life, but I have seen mowers at dealers with 50 hours on them and they looked like they had 5,000 hours on them. :(
you are double right about not working enough. this z is so much faster that im having to wait until the buisness catches up.
its slow but steady. what i really need is about 4 good full days of mowing . that will fit the buisiness and money requirements.
i have to leave some time for some other type handyman jobs.
eric those estates you show pictures of ,indicate to me you have found your niche. i have several large placeses as in mabe 10.
the rest are 1/2 to 3/4 acres
08-05-2001, 09:50 AM
You guys are right this guy abused everything. He no longer is with us he is at Brickman now(good for them). The machine was purchased in Winter 2000 it has about 2000 hours on it. It was like new before he got it last season. I know its not the cleanest but it runs great even with the 25HP Kohler. Amazingly enough a certified welder did do this. I no longer use him.
Other things he destroyed
2 Kawi trimmers, Honda push mower, Lazer Vac which I replaced with an Ultra Vac.Among other things.:mad:
It's very tough to find good help here in Jersey. But when you do you have to take care of your guys. This year I have got a Great bunch of guys. Equipment abuse is way down and production is up.
08-05-2001, 12:36 PM
Sorry it was purchased winter 99
08-05-2001, 01:00 PM
Next time it is fixed, make sure it is "sleeved" and welded with a MIG welder to hold down the heat.
To sleeve it they will have to cut it open and put a smalled square tubing inside, or flat steel to extend well past where the repair is made. Where the metal is broke it is alreaady fatigued, and the welding heat will weaken it more.
I've seen structural frames fixed on cars which were sleeved, welded and dressed out, and repainted to where it couldn't be seen that it had been broken.
I just went out into the garage and looked at my Laser (2001 model) for comparison's sake.
The piece of flat metal on top of the frame tube that tapers off right where the crack was repaired (in the pic above) is much longer on mine. It extends all the way forward and tapers off right above the square tube that runs across the front of the machine. It is even made with a small "Z" bend just forward of where your break occured. Check it out:
My NEWER one:
Your OLDER one:
See what I mean?
Apparently Exmark has seen this kind of problem in the past and have rectified it. You would REALLY, REALLY have to abuse the newer Laser to crack, warp, or bend the outrigger with this newer arrangement...if it is possible to break it at all.
When getting yours repaired you may want to reinforce yours in this manner too...as well as having it 'sleeved'. It should be bulletproof then! :D
Good luck! :)
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