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CAPT Stream Rotar
05-01-2007, 07:10 PM
Hello experts. I would just like to say this is my favorite forum to post on cause it deals with a hobby/job of mine..Irrigation..

With that said and out of the way, I am in the process of building a garden for my dad(father's day present).I am installing the garden that is 16X16 in a very sunny area.I am cutting the turf out every day after work on my way home, and re-installing the (red-threaded) turf.

Any way, in the garden we are building up the sides with 4X4's...I am getting the loam delivered on Sunday/Saturday.Well, my initial question is @ what depth do I install the drip.I was thinking about 3-4 inches below grade of the garden...We will be planting Tomatoes,Beans,Squash,lettuce the basics....My question is @ what pattern do you Big Dogs think will be most effective.....I know the plants are going to be relocated ever few years for circulation...I was thinking about griding my pattern with 12' netafim in 8 ft laterals....


Thoughts?Comments?Ideas?

Just wondering what you all have to input on the subject....

Eddie

Wet_Boots
05-01-2007, 07:44 PM
If time and suppliers allowed, you might build a discrete-component drip system, partly for the learning experience, and partly to accommodate changing needs of the plantings. Rainbird has the most in-depth line of drip components.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-01-2007, 07:47 PM
our suppliers are fairly up to date....i have about 3 weeks to put the system in....I am going to install a manual watering system.
so how would you grid it?
Depth?
what length 12 or 18?

I apoligize for my Noobness.

Dirty Water
05-01-2007, 08:16 PM
I would go right on the surface. A garden see's too much action to bury the lines. Put them on the surface so you can pull them out easy if you re-arrange, or want to till it.

sheshovel
05-01-2007, 08:17 PM
I would not bury it, I would install it on top and cover with mulch. I f you bury it it will get messed up by digging and transplanting, plus the roots of the plants will clog it up.

Wet_Boots
05-01-2007, 08:17 PM
You might try to grab a copy of Rainbird's Xerigation manual - tons of detail. Almost a textbook.

Ground Master
05-01-2007, 08:23 PM
Netafim, laid on top, spaced 12"

sheshovel
05-01-2007, 08:40 PM
Lots of variations, here is a basic one.

Dirty Water
05-01-2007, 08:42 PM
SheShovel, the self proclaimed queen of drip, apparently was asleep in Drip 101 when they taught about the benefits of an exhaust header.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-01-2007, 08:51 PM
dirty water-do you mean a flush valve?

Dirty Water
05-01-2007, 09:01 PM
No, an exhaust header equalizes the pressure and flow by completing the circuit.

This causes the emitters to actually drip their rated amount in every section, instead of having some have more pressure and some have less.

If you like to put flush valves on the lines, then put it on the exhaust header.

Wet_Boots
05-01-2007, 09:47 PM
You could do a netafim grid with about thirty minutes advance notice. With three weeks, and the described conditions, I think much more could be done. Especially with tomatoes in the garden.

sheshovel
05-02-2007, 01:33 AM
No, an exhaust header equalizes the pressure and flow by completing the circuit.

This causes the emitters to actually drip their rated amount in every section, instead of having some have more pressure and some have less.

If you like to put flush valves on the lines, then put it on the exhaust header.

Yes but he was not using emiters, read the thread. I did state there were various ways this could be done and that was just one of them did I not? Of course you can run the line across the back as well.

sheshovel
05-02-2007, 01:36 AM
http://www.netafim.com/Irrigation_Products/Landscape_Drip_Products/

Dirty Water
05-02-2007, 01:48 AM
Yes but he was not using emiters, read the thread. I did state there were various ways this could be done and that was just one of them did I not? Of course you can run the line across the back as well.

Well, you suggested a crappy way, I'll give you that.

He is using emitters, be it inline, punch in, your "soaker hose" style drip line, the concept is still the same.

You don't want dead ends on drip if you can avoid them, and in a square bed, it doesn't take any additional effort to create a loop.

The queen of drip should know this.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-02-2007, 06:52 AM
I'm using emitters with the netafim...(is there any other way to do drip?)
I'm just a little foggy about the grid pattern.....The way i was taught to install the drip is to put the flush valve farthest away from the ram feed to the system..

I was thinking about getting more detailed in a section or 2...making a square foot grid system for 2 eight by eight sections...and the other i would just run laterals with a juncture in the middle..I'm thinking about this @ work and get back to you all....

Again thank you all for the insightful ideas,comments....you people Rock!

thanks

ED
PS have a great day in the trench or spotting Tire kickers.

Wet_Boots
05-02-2007, 07:11 AM
I'm using emitters with the netafim...(is there any other way to do drip?)Look in the back of a Rainbird catalog, and you'll see a more complete way to do drip irrigation. More time-consuming. More capable of being changed, as the plantings change.

PurpHaze
05-02-2007, 08:48 AM
You don't want dead ends on drip if you can avoid them, and in a square bed, it doesn't take any additional effort to create a loop.

Like you say... the exhaust end basically completes a circuit keeping everything stabilized.

Now... my drip at home is not looped and works just fine. However, it's the old style: 1/2" PE running through the front of the beds with 1/4" PE tied in and going to the individual plants. Emitters are GPH-based depending on water requirements of the individual plants. When the zone comes on there is about 15-20 seconds of hissing through mostly the emitters at the very ends until the air escapes and everything levels out. Once that occurs you can walk throughout the front, side and back yards and not note any differential between the emitter outputs.

zman9119
05-02-2007, 01:56 PM
http://www.netafim-usa-landscape.com/Techline_CV_Design_Guide.php

Netafim Techlin Design Guide

Lots of informaiton at: http://netafim-usa-landscape.com

Ground Master
05-07-2007, 05:28 PM
8' x 10' garden with netafim space 12" apart

Critical Care
05-19-2007, 11:24 AM
Does anyone see a flush valve or capped tee in that picture for winterizing the system?

Mike Leary
05-19-2007, 11:33 AM
dirty water-do you mean a flush valve?

We installed drip for multiple raised beds years ago, used Netafim on 1'
centers with a ball valve @ each bed..worked great..still does, tho we have
no flush valves..I'm wondering why it worked so well is we did compressor-
winterize each season.

Ground Master
05-19-2007, 04:15 PM
Critical Care- here ya go. I didn't quite get the entire set-up in the original picture. So, heres a close up for you.

Critical Care
05-19-2007, 11:17 PM
Ah I see, but is that on the input side or exhaust header?

I see that you already have your hemp... err... maybe that's corn coming up. You didn't use pressure treated wood because of growing veggies there?

Remote Pigtails
05-20-2007, 02:39 AM
Rotar I think Groundmaster has laid out a beauty to follow. Set it up and then plant in the wet spots. I'm working on a vegetable garden myself. It won't be ready in time for summer vegetables but I'm hoping to have it ready by fall. I'm sure sheshovel will criticize it.

hoskm01
05-20-2007, 06:46 AM
My systems are same as Purps, no header needed, emitters compensate for any pressure differences (of which there are few once the air is out) and flow is obviously no issue.

sheshovel
05-20-2007, 09:33 AM
I will NOT!

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-20-2007, 09:33 AM
hi sheshrubbler

Ground Master
05-20-2007, 10:48 AM
no presssure treated wood and yes, its on the exhaust header and your right - corn

sheshovel
05-20-2007, 01:09 PM
Hi Rotarheadboy.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-20-2007, 05:49 PM
on a serious note how long have some of you streched netafim?
we have a huge drip job coming 1 zone in particular we have to drip out 14 trees that are SERIOUS feet away!!!!!

myquestion is, a. should we use 1/2' drip?
or stick to 3/8?
any particular reducer/filter?
I was thinking install a flush valve 7 trees into the zone...and 1 flush valve @ the end.

Next question-can i use 1 inch poly as a feed to each tree?
or do i have to use ram..
I will have pics of this job on monday....

Thanks in advance IRRITATORS!
Rotar

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-21-2007, 05:10 PM
on a serious note how long have some of you streched netafim?
we have a huge drip job coming 1 zone in particular we have to drip out 14 trees that are SERIOUS feet away!!!!!

myquestion is, a. should we use 1/2' drip?
or stick to 3/8?
any particular reducer/filter?
I was thinking install a flush valve 7 trees into the zone...and 1 flush valve @ the end.

Next question-can i use 1 inch poly as a feed to each tree?
or do i have to use ram..
I will have pics of this job on monday....

Thanks in advance IRRITATORS!
Rotar
bump bump bump

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-22-2007, 06:02 AM
on a serious note how long have some of you streched netafim?
we have a huge drip job coming 1 zone in particular we have to drip out 14 trees that are SERIOUS feet away!!!!!

myquestion is, a. should we use 1/2' drip?
or stick to 3/8?
any particular reducer/filter?
I was thinking install a flush valve 7 trees into the zone...and 1 flush valve @ the end.

Next question-can i use 1 inch poly as a feed to each tree?
or do i have to use ram..
I will have pics of this job on monday....

Thanks in advance IRRITATORS!
Rotar


I finally stumped Lawnsite...

HAHA!

Bump

Wet_Boots
05-22-2007, 06:51 AM
Is there some reason you don't supply the exact distances involved? 'Serious Distance' might be a thousand feet or more. Or not. Why not just collect your data and run the numbers past a friction loss chart?

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-22-2007, 06:53 AM
Is there some reason you don't supply the exact distances involved? 'Serious Distance' might be a thousand feet or more. Or not. Why not just collect your data and run the numbers past a friction loss chart?

WB-i am in the process of collecting data...I have no idea where these friction loss charts are.

thanks for responding...today i will have full measurements and pictures..


have a good 1

Wet_Boots
05-22-2007, 06:57 AM
No manufacturers' catalogs? They nearly all have such charts. Google will find you some.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-22-2007, 05:38 PM
welp as promised...

This is the hillside W worker..over 100K of trees installed on a hill aside about 80ftX150...All to be installed in 12''netafim...1 reducer running off 5 zones 2 upper hill>2Lower hill East and west sides, 1 zone complete around 14 trees..25 GPM well....

As a whole
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2839/thebigunzu1.jpg

A pic of the west side of hill...open trench 2 more 3/4 feeds to be installed
we decided that doing the tree zone fittings were first>laying other feeds after....
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/9559/sertrench2morefeedstogocw6.jpg

East side of steps with serious growth.needs water soon!!!!!
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/3019/sergrowthfq0.jpg

Best connection ever made for 1 inch poly!!!!this is a feed for the 1 of 14 trees are on the same zone
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7360/thebestconectionevermaddx8.jpg

West side of the stairs with Katalpa tree,where the flush valve will go in..
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/7420/sergrowthwestsideofprojlh4.jpg

I had the pup dig the reducer hole...took him 10 mins 2 ft deep ez by 5 ft wide or so.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3222/remoteboxwith13wirekg8.jpg

The stairs that were built this past winter..took 5 men 3 months straingt to build this..they started in DEC..its about 80 feet to the gate or so...3 tiers-lower,middle,Upper section...http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9281/fromwhereimstandingtothwy8.jpg

This was taken from the far east service road for the 100K $ worth of trees..i belive there is a few tree feeds and the soon to be reduced mainifold..my boss is working off a well with no tank...I have no idea how he is going to work this out with the reducer....oh well thats on him..
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8985/frommainserviceroadzc3.jpg

An idea of how much growth this hill is....
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7896/dscn0687dl2.jpg

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-22-2007, 05:51 PM
1 inch feed going to Kaltalpa tree where flush valve on Z #1 will go..
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2420/1inchfeedtothekatalpatrai0.jpg

This is where the 5 zone mainifold of drip zones will be..about 4 feet wide and 2 deep Easy..That new pup of mine can sure dig mean trenches....and once he gets on our page of installation he will Kic @$$
http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/842/2footdeepmainifoldfor5zdm1.jpg

Taken from the upper west side of install...
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/3994/dscn0686yi0.jpg

View from middle tier
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/6355/viewfrommiddletiervv1.jpg

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-23-2007, 05:40 AM
You are all like a gang of vultures....

Remote Pigtails
05-23-2007, 06:59 AM
You are all like a gang of vultures....

Rotar your posts this morning have been short and opinionated. Are you okay?

Critical Care
05-25-2007, 11:47 AM
Hmm... Trees here and there, shrubs here and there... I haven't seen it done, but maybe a two wire decoder drip valve system would be advantageous.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-25-2007, 05:45 PM
Hmm... Trees here and there, shrubs here and there... I haven't seen it done, but maybe a two wire decoder drip valve system would be advantageous.

do you smoke the rocks you pull out of the ground?

sheshovel
05-25-2007, 09:46 PM
Tisk tisk pup, be nice now.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-25-2007, 09:55 PM
ok sheshrubbler..

you dont deserve to carry my tools

sheshovel
05-25-2007, 09:58 PM
Ohhh so now you are turning on me huh? You have the nads punk, to turn on The She.

CAPT Stream Rotar
05-25-2007, 10:07 PM
the she?=the who?

wait what>