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View Full Version : Oldie but goodie squirter...


PurpHaze
05-01-2007, 09:33 PM
Had to replace the top end on a valve today with an unusual leakage point. Valve has to be an original on this high school site. :)

Dirty Water
05-01-2007, 09:43 PM
That is an oldie.

Do the new irritrol parts first those?

Remote Pigtails
05-01-2007, 10:10 PM
Ah yes the HR 2.0? I have seen that leak on their 1" and 1.5" Their are a lot of those in Dallas. You can still buy bonnets for the 1"

irrig8r
05-02-2007, 02:49 AM
Irritrol solenoids will fit 'em, but you have to take off the plunger retainer and be careful of the brass threads as you thread the solenoid into the bonnet... BTW, the solenoid in the pic was likely not the original. The original HRs were horseshoe shaped.

PurpHaze
05-02-2007, 08:25 AM
Do the new irritrol parts first those?

Irritrol solenoids will fit 'em, but you have to take off the plunger retainer and be careful of the brass threads as you thread the solenoid into the bonnet... BTW, the solenoid in the pic was likely not the original. The original HRs were horseshoe shaped.

All the current Irritrol Century Plus valve parts match up. The gray giaphragm seat ring was replaced along with the diaphragm, spring, and bonnet top end. Only thing left in the ground was the body.

Major body difference is that the brass studs on the old models are not secured into the plastic (like the new version) and can unthread completely from the body if the nut is rusted and catches on the upper end of the thread from rust or dings. You need to wire brush the nut and upper threads and spray them before attempting removal. Sometimes it can be a chore to remove the bonnet nuts. We had two of the eight nuts freeze up but were finally able to free them. You can also buy replacement studs from Irritrol and then set them using two opposing nuts on the top of the stud to thread them in.

You also have to be careful about the bleeder rod if only changing that out. There are some minor differences between the old ones and new ones especially in the area of the threads right below the "thumb screw" on the top. The newer ones are generally too long in the threads and the rod won't seat flush, causing leakage. We've saved parts over the years for just such occurrences.

As Irrig8r notes this is an old replacement solenoid. All metal solenoids can be a real PITA and we only have a 50/50 chance of successfully replacing them. The metal threads often rust together making it virtually impossible to remove the solenoid. The solenoid housing will spin on an internal rod connected to the threads that are then rusted onto the receiving threads in the bonnet. You usually then have to destroy the solenoid housing to get at the rod and then attempt to turn it with a small set of pliers to try and break it loose. In most cases the plastic bonnet around the solenoid threads will break and you end up having to do a top end on the valve anyway. If a metal solenoid doesn't start unscrewing for us right away we'll usually just shut the water down and do a top end. More costly but much quicker.

PurpHaze
05-02-2007, 08:40 AM
One additional major difference between the old valves and newer Century Plus valves. The bonnet and diaphragm have been slightly reengineered. The upper rim of the diaphragm has a larger protruding bead of rubber that nests into a bigger groove on the bonnet underside rim for better leak prevention. You cannot mix and match diaphragms and bonnets from the different eras. You can still purchase "old" style diaphragms if you're going to just replace it with the old bonnet staying intact. We've found it much easier to just do a complete top end and then the valve is basically new.

Also... the old valves were not equipped with an actuator lever at the solenoid, just the bleeder screw. There are two generations of actuator adapters and levers. Often the newest one will not retrofit into the oldest solenoid threads... internal space is different.