Situation A:Turn on zone 10

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

and nothing is on...

where do you question first the field?

or the controler...

I got into this argument today...I /we hopped on another account today...20 zones of HACK N SLAP complete with Soaker hose....nothing coming on...no rain sensor..on a acre and a half of proptery..

so any way zone 10-12 didnt come on....I say the problem is in the field..my boss says go start @ the controler....

What you experts think?

[soaked.in.sweat]

using your volt meter makes sure the controller is putting out proper voltage to zones 10-12 terminals. If you got the proper voltage reading then you know its not the controller. then check your voltage at the valves, if your not getting enough you got a wire break. If you are getting enough then its your valve,or a kink ect.......

[Bill S]

Usually the field

[Dirty Water]

Start at the controller, work out to the field.

Listen to your boss.

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

Usually the field

thats what im talking about

[bobw]

10-12 didn't come on? My fist guess would be that they share a valve box and that the common is disconnected. I'd check that before I walked to my truck for my voltmeter...

[Tadams]

using your volt meter makes sure the controller is putting out proper voltage to zones 10-12 terminals. If you got the proper voltage reading then you know its not the controller. then check your voltage at the valves, if your not getting enough you got a wire break. If you are getting enough then its your valve,or a kink ect.......

This is the way we do it.

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

10-12 didn't come on? My fist guess would be that they share a valve box and that the common is disconnected. I'd check that before I walked to my truck for my voltmeter...


thank you...

but to each his own..

I would check wiring/valves before i went checking controlers

[Tony Clifton]

The first thing I would do before even checking the voltage is to check the resistence using your multimeter. If you have resistence, and the # is correct, then check the voltage. If voltage is good, then go into the field. Try cracking the solenoid to open the valve manually. See what happens, and take it from there.
I would say your boss is correct by telling you to start at the controller.

[bicmudpuppy]

20 zones and 3 didn't fire...................I would finish running the rest of the system and first make sure I was "missing" any zones. I just hate it when I find out I've been looking for a valve/zone in the back yard that NEVER existed. Next is to make sure there are wires on those zones in the controller. Then, I ohm to see if I can read a solenoid on those zones. If I have good ohms, I check voltage. So, the answer to your question of where to start? You start where you already were. At the controller. The controller did not fire a zone. Find out IF that zone exists, and while your there, make sure the controller works. Then you find the valve in the field.

[DanaMac]

I would check wiring/valves before i went checking controlers

Why? How difficult is it to check it at the timer first? Start at the source first, then move to the field. Yes 99% of the time it may be in the field, and it probably is, but throw your volt meter on the terminals and make sure those stations are firing at the timer first. Heck why start at the valves? Might as well start at the nozzle, then check the head, then the pipe or swing joint, then the lateral, THEN the valve. Most of what we do is a process of elimination. Start at the source. then work down stream. Geeez.

If a system isn't getting water, do you check the valve or heads first, or check to see if the water is on at the backflow first? I can't tell you how many times I've found ball valves closed at an RP or PVB.

[Dirty Water]

If a system isn't getting water, do you check the valve or heads first, or check to see if the water is on at the backflow first? I can't tell you how many times I've found ball valves closed at an RP or PVB.

Why stop there?

The first thing I do is dig up the street and cut open the street main to make sure there is water in it.

[soaked.in.sweat]

Then make sure the customer knows you'll be back in 2 weeks for the go-back

[Midlo Snow Maker]

Why stop there?

The first thing I do is dig up the street and cut open the street main to make sure there is water in it.

:laugh: :laugh:

[Dirty Water]

Yeah, it looks like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hs9kUDaJBPg&mode=related&search=

Watch the whole clip, it gets good.

[sheshovel]

and nothing is on...

where do you question first the field?

or the controler...

I got into this argument today...I /we hopped on another account today...20 zones of HACK N SLAP complete with Soaker hose....nothing coming on...no rain sensor..on a acre and a half of proptery..

so any way zone 10-12 didnt come on....I say the problem is in the field..my boss says go start @ the controler....

What you experts think?

Nothing coming on? Or zones 10 and 12 not coming on only?
First thing I do is check to make sure there IS actually zones 10 and 12, that 10 and 12 have been wired up to the controller. So yes, start at the controller and work your way out. Why look out in the field for two zones that may not exist? Did someone say that already? If they did they are right, you are wrong Rotar. Even a non-irrigator knows that.

[irrig8r]

and nothing is on...

where do you question first the field?


What you experts think?

Well, what I really want to know is ..


where do you learn first the English?

:confused:

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

20 zones and 3 didn't fire...................I would finish running the rest of the system and first make sure I was "missing" any zones. I just hate it when I find out I've been looking for a valve/zone in the back yard that NEVER existed. Next is to make sure there are wires on those zones in the controller. Then, I ohm to see if I can read a solenoid on those zones. If I have good ohms, I check voltage. So, the answer to your question of where to start? You start where you already were. At the controller. The controller did not fire a zone. Find out IF that zone exists, and while your there, make sure the controller works. Then you find the valve in the field.


Thing is bic....It was apparent that right side of the drive and the top left didnt fire..plain n simple....those 2 didnt come up...
while i was fixing some of the others zones..I noticed a valve box on the unfiring side of the drive way crushed...I thing the valve solienoid's were buststed..but thats a guess and i didnt have time to play while i was fixing SHE!T..

on a side note the lady left the house with out any water..I was a little upset....ARRRRGG new customers!

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

Why stop there?

The first thing I do is dig up the street and cut open the street main to make sure there is water in it.

Firts thing you would do is go to McDonalds and hit up the 99 Cent value meal...

Do you sweat with post's like this from you AC office Gramps?

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

Well, what I really want to know is ..


where do you learn first the English?

:confused:
I bet you i type better English than 75% of your work force speaks....

Try again.

NEXT?

[SprinklerGuy]

I always start at the controller w/ my voltmeter....always.

[PurpHaze]

And when you find valves make sure you manually fire them to see exatcly which zones they are. Nothing worse than repairing the wrong valve. :)

[PurpHaze]

I always start at the controller w/ my voltmeter....always.

Same here. The system wiring starts at the controller so that is the logical troubleshooting starting point.

When it comes to water/pressure problems I always start at the POC as this is where the system starts too.

[DanaMac]

And when you find valves make sure you manually fire them to see exatcly which zones they are. Nothing worse than repairing the wrong valve. :)

Oh yeah, I remember doing a couple of those in the past. With multiple valves and wiring in the boxes, I followed the wire wrong and took apart the wrong valve. Ahhhhh...... the days of a rookie.

[Wet_Boots]

A clamp-around ammeter is handy to have, so you can see the current consumed by valve(s)

[unit28]

First thing ya need is a booster pump.
Then check your voltage at the control box.
Then go hook up the common wire in the valve box.
Then sell them the booster pump.....LOL:laugh:


http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/Manuals/trblsht.pdf

[Mike Leary]

With all this good advise..nothing for me to add except double check all wire
connections & clean the chimney!

[Rainman7]

Best tool for electrical troubleshooting I have ever used.

http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/irrigation.asp

[Remote Pigtails]

Best tool for electrical troubleshooting I have ever used.

http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/irrigation.asp

I must confess we use that too. Doesn't work on all valves especially older ones.

[Rainman7]

Really,

Which coils does it have problems with? Its worked on everything I have used it on. I'm sure I have not tried it on all coils in existence but just curious. I have used it on old Weathermatic, Toro and Superior valves.

[DanaMac]

Really,

Which coils does it have problems with? Its worked on everything I have used it on. I'm sure I have not tried it on all coils in existence but just curious. I have used it on old Weathermatic, Toro and Superior valves.

Mine has problems with older Toro valves if the batteries are not brand new. It will turn them on, then close down in about 5-10 seconds.

[Remote Pigtails]

Really,

Which coils does it have problems with? Its worked on everything I have used it on. I'm sure I have not tried it on all coils in existence but just curious. I have used it on old Weathermatic, Toro and Superior valves.

Imperials and Peter Pauls come to mind. Great tool use it a lot but on older copper systems we are a little more careful.

[DanaMac]

Imperials and Peter Pauls come to mind. Great tool use it a lot but on older copper systems we are a little more careful.

Never heard of the Peter Pauls. Any photos?

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

That particular tester has saved my from losing many pounds from walking back n forth...(not sure if thats good or bad)

but i swear by that particular brand...
For the Toro flow pro's, if i dont clamp directly onto a metal connection i find the results are not favorable.

mon amiee!

[Remote Pigtails]

Never heard of the Peter Pauls. Any photos?

I'll get one this year sometime. It was used on old valves and when kicked on leaked in the ground. I think, not sure but also used on Hayes valves. (not you purp)

[PurpHaze]

... not sure but also used on Hayes valves. (not you purp)

Damn... thought I owned a company I didn't know about. :)

[SprinklerGuy]

I don't use my Station Master to "troubleshoot".....you meant you use it to fire solenoids w/out going inside to the timer right?

I only use the volt/ohm/ampclamp to troubleshoot valves...but I do use the SMaster to fire valves when noone is home.....does it troubleshoot?

[londonrain]

Did a service call yesterday with no zones firing on one of two esp 12's and the station master showed the status as open. Started at the clock and showed open, then opened up a junction box right below the controller and found all 24 field wires and commons wire spliced together. Tested from the junction box and station master showed good. Bad connection on the common even though it was wire nutted together. Glad I started at the clock and worked my way out....The New station master now has chatter mode for finding a valve but you must relieve pressure on the main for it too work properly..

[SprinklerGuy]

Yes....that is because the solenoid is opening/closing very rapidly with the use of a diode...and it won't chatter on full pipes ;)

don't just relieve the pressure of the main.....drain it as best as you can....

Bill Painter (Sucktube)....makes a much better item for this if you truly need it.....all the rest are copycats....

[bicmudpuppy]

Thing is bic....It was apparent that right side of the drive and the top left didnt fire..plain n simple....those 2 didnt come up...
while i was fixing some of the others zones..I noticed a valve box on the unfiring side of the drive way crushed...I thing the valve solienoid's were buststed..but thats a guess and i didnt have time to play while i was fixing SHE!T..

on a side note the lady left the house with out any water..I was a little upset....ARRRRGG new customers!

And you've never had some idiot sequence things wrong? Just because the next logical zone area doesn't come on? You run the rest of the system and you start at the clock. I've seen demolished boxes that still work and the bad valve be in a pristine condition. If, IF the bad box you saw was it, you got lucky. Once again, I will repeat that a good tech doesn't need luck. Pop used to say it was better to be lucky than good................ever notice that the ones who say that are really good?

[Mike Leary]

Pop used to say it was better to be lucky than good................ever notice that the ones who say that are really good?

Good line..one of the best...I surveyed Hank Reardon's site today that had all
the valves coming on at once...tried to locate missing 6" pits..too much hash,
started pulling wires off the clock & firing as individuals..bingo!, found a zone
SOMEHOW firing rest of zones!!!! Luck/skill/experience? Who cares, the client
is up and running with only one pinhead zone down that was causing the
problem...Hank's crew will open up the 6" so I can see what the f..k happened:walking:

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

And you've never had some idiot sequence things wrong? Just because the next logical zone area doesn't come on? You run the rest of the system and you start at the clock. I've seen demolished boxes that still work and the bad valve be in a pristine condition. If, IF the bad box you saw was it, you got lucky. Once again, I will repeat that a good tech doesn't need luck. Pop used to say it was better to be lucky than good................ever notice that the ones who say that are really good?

im a horrible installer/service tech.