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RAlmaroad
05-23-2007, 12:50 PM
I treated some Yellow Sedge and Green Kliinga last week in SC following all recommendation on instructions: had my neighbor NOT MOW yard two days before treatment, NO water for 24 hours, used mix within 4 hours and now waiting out the 2-3 days after treatment to mow.
QUESTION: What will be the evidence that the Sedgehammer is working? Will it yellow, wilt, droop? I'm not down there, friend will call tomorrow to tell me about his lawn. Since I've never used it, I don't know what to recognize. Thank God we don't have that stuff in TN where it mostly fescue and Trimmec, Speedzone and hard work.
Would appreciate you help,
Thanks,
Roy

Harley-D
05-23-2007, 03:57 PM
Did you use a sticker? Should wilt and turn yellow and wilt. Might need two apps but someone else may have more experience.

RAlmaroad
05-23-2007, 04:30 PM
Did you use a sticker? Should wilt and turn yellow and wilt. Might need two apps but someone else may have more experience.

Sure did use sticker, per directions. Centipede grass looks like crabgrass on steroids and St. Augustine is even bigger--I think it's the same strain somewhere in the genes of things.
Thanks,
Roy

Ric
05-23-2007, 06:06 PM
Did you use a sticker? Should wilt and turn yellow and wilt. Might need two apps but someone else may have more experience.

I will Ditto Honda Gull Wings posts. Give it at least two weeks before you get up set and think it is not working.

americanlawn
05-23-2007, 06:31 PM
Used Basagran years ago (worked fine). Then switched to Manage (worked fine too). Switched to Sledgehammer last year (worked just as well).

I normally see yellowing of nutsedge within 5 to 7 days.

Most efficient kill = spray when it's as tall as possible, use a fine mist, spreader/stickers are good, but not necessary, do not mow or water for 2 or 3 days. Repeat app might be necessary for the little ones that did not absorb enough product. The homeowner may have to "mow around" the area so as not to interfere with "a good kill".

RAlmaroad
05-23-2007, 07:30 PM
Thanks Harley, americanlawn, Ric and others. Would a followup application of Basagran (I have that on hand) be advisable in a month or so? He turned the irrigation back on after a full day. Hopefully that was OK?. Directions recomme nded no rain for 3-6 hours I told my neighbor that I would tell him when to mow. There were places were the green kliinga (fragrant) was like a beautiful grass. It was high (6") and I did a fine mist and covered it well even sticking the wand close to the center of some of the larger tuffs
I once treated the fences of some baseball fields with my favorite Crossbow. It did not react quickly but after a week, things went quicker than any Roundup made. Neighbor will call with a report tomorrow (5 days after treatment) If it works, it will be the best $15 he ever spent. I got a chicken dinner. Thanks again--especially Ric for his advice and guidance.

RigglePLC
05-23-2007, 07:33 PM
I used it when it was called "Manage". Nothing happens at first--maybe it gets slightly more yellow. Then the customer mows--and it generally does not come back after mowing--what remains slowly turns brown.

RAlmaroad
05-23-2007, 07:41 PM
I used it when it was called "Manage". Nothing happens at first--maybe it gets slightly more yellow. Then the customer mows--and it generally does not come back after mowing--what remains slowly turns brown.

Thanks Riggs-- I was wondering because the label stated that it only "Surpresses Green Kliinga" I'm back in TN. and advising him via phone. Can you believe that...Hey, he used to live here too. Thanks again

Ric
05-23-2007, 08:14 PM
RAlmaroad

Turf Grass Weeds are classed in 3 categories. Broadleafs, Grassy Weeds, and SEDGES.

Basagram is what we might refer to as OLD Chemistry and Sledge Hammer (Manage) might be New Chemistry. Certainly could be called Newer Chemistry, But I have not used Certainty as yet and can not speak from Experience about it. I do hear it is a great product.

Understanding how Sledge or any pests life cycle run helps us better control or suppress it. To Suppress a pest is to lower it's population. To control a pest is to lower it's population to the point of being able to tolerate that pest. Note That I didn't say total kill because today we no longer Exterminate. I am not going to open Pandora's Box here. Nuff Said.

Like Blue grass which grows from Rhizomes, Sedge grows from NUTLETS under ground and are connected in long chains of Nutlets. Well established Sedge might have 30 Nutlet Chains under ground. Manage which is a systemic will only kill back 3 Nutlets, leaving a long chain of Nutlets to emerge as Sedge leaves. Basagram will kill back only one Nutlet and is in fact considered a contact not a systemic.

It is your call if you want to retreat with Basagram. The population of the Sedge before and after Treatment would be the deciding factor.

ed2hess
05-23-2007, 09:20 PM
RAlmaroad

Turf Grass Weeds are classed in 3 categories. Broadleafs, Grassy Weeds, and SEDGES.

Basagram is what we might refer to as OLD Chemistry and Sledge Hammer (Manage) might be New Chemistry. Certainly could be called Newer Chemistry, But I have not used Certainty as yet and can not speak from Experience about it. I do hear it is a great product.

Understanding how Sledge or any pests life cycle run helps us better control or suppress it. To Suppress a pest is to lower it's population. To control a pest is to lower it's population to the point of being able to tolerate that pest. Note That I didn't say total kill because today we no longer Exterminate. I am not going to open Pandora's Box here. Nuff Said.

Like Blue grass which grows from Rhizomes, Sedge grows from NUTLETS under ground and are connected in long chains of Nutlets. Well established Sedge might have 30 Nutlet Chains under ground. Manage which is a systemic will only kill back 3 Nutlets, leaving a long chain of Nutlets to emerge as Sedge leaves. Basagram will kill back only one Nutlet and is in fact considered a contact not a systemic.

It is your call if you want to retreat with Basagram. The population of the Sedge before and after Treatment would be the deciding factor.

Ric,
I have been using Image from Home Depot this year on nut grass and have been impressed with the quick yellowing. Do you have any experience with this product. It seems very cost effective if it does the job.

Ric
05-23-2007, 09:36 PM
Ric,
I have been using Image from Home Depot this year on nut grass and have been impressed with the quick yellowing. Do you have any experience with this product. It seems very cost effective if it does the job.

Ed

Before Manage All I used was Image it is a great product. But Manage was cheaper at the time.

quiet
05-23-2007, 11:09 PM
I found little difference between Image and Manage. Both supressed yellow nutsedge for a good portion of the season, but not all year. Image seemed a little less effective on mature plants. I've been hitting it with Certainty this year while it's still in the 2-3 leaf stage.

Nutsedge has exploded this year! Pent up after 2 brutal years of drought. Sure is different than last year, right Mr. Hess?

Ric
05-23-2007, 11:27 PM
I found little difference between Image and Manage. Both supressed yellow nutsedge for a good portion of the season, but not all year. Image seemed a little less effective on mature plants. I've been hitting it with Certainty this year while it's still in the 2-3 leaf stage.

Nutsedge has exploded this year! Pent up after 2 brutal years of drought. Sure is different than last year, right Mr. Hess?

Quiet

Image will get Purple Nut sedge and Manage won't. I have very little purple sedge so Image wasn't worth the extra cost.

RAlmaroad
05-24-2007, 06:21 AM
I've been researching a new product called "Dismiss" from FMC Corp. It is Sedge Specific for both Yellow and Purple and also Green Kliinga. Papers from Clemson give it high marks but in talking with the Local Extention Agent, little more info was not available. A.I. for Dismiss is Sulfentrazone. It only takes .18oz/1K normally. In talking with a golf course Superintendent--They really like Dismiss. Sedges love water and golf courses must water a lot to stay green, so curtailing water to help control could not enter the control--only "Dismiss" according to him
EdHess, I used some image last year on my yard and it did OK and did knock back the Yellow Sedge but only after two applications. It was late iin the season and plants were tough, It's a good product at about $20 for 6K of lawn. There were only a few so far this year and I dug them up,getting all of the nutlets.

I'll have my neighbor to mow his yard tomorrow and check out the sedge population next week. His real problem was the "Green Kliinga"--I hope the Sedgehammer works, should know by the end of next week as the next application might have to be the "Dismiss" (Cost $255/pint) if he's willing to go that cost.

Good thread, thanks to everyone for their help.

wrivers
05-24-2007, 02:53 PM
I treated some Yellow Sedge and Green Kliinga last week in SC following all recommendation on instructions: had my neighbor NOT MOW yard two days before treatment, NO water for 24 hours, used mix within 4 hours and now waiting out the 2-3 days after treatment to mow.
QUESTION: What will be the evidence that the Sedgehammer is working? Will it yellow, wilt, droop? I'm not down there, friend will call tomorrow to tell me about his lawn. Since I've never used it, I don't know what to recognize. Thank God we don't have that stuff in TN where it mostly fescue and Trimmec, Speedzone and hard work.
Would appreciate you help,
Thanks,
Roy

Roy,

I was surprised no one else mentioned this: The very first eveidence that the sedgehammer is working is that the sedges stop growing (within hours). Untreated sedges will be taller than the turf within 1 day of mowing, but treated sedges stay the height they were when they were treated. If you look out over the lawn in a couple days and don't see any sedges sticking up, then the herbicide is doing it's thing. The sedges will yellow in 7-10 days, then slowly die. One of the best things about the herbicide is that it stops the weed growth, which keeps them from being clearly visible from a distance, which makes the yard look better, which is the whole point of treating. Wes

Pro-Scapes
05-24-2007, 03:56 PM
Ric,
I have been using Image from Home Depot this year on nut grass and have been impressed with the quick yellowing. Do you have any experience with this product. It seems very cost effective if it does the job.

if im not mistaken image is atrazine based. MUCH cheaper to pick up a bottle of atrazine at the co op. Working well for us so far.

Nathan Robinson
05-24-2007, 04:02 PM
It takes about a week. It turns more yellow then eventually wildts. purple sedges dont discolor.....

Rob.C
05-24-2007, 05:30 PM
Using sledge hammer now will be o.k, but do not use it in the hotter temps it will hurt more than help, use manage, much better product, make sure nutsedge is tall and only spray the tips, u dont need much, make sure u use a flat spray and one trigger pull is all u need, nutsedge is much easier to kill in the summer months since it grows faster and will absorb more of the product allow 7-14 days, and make sure your costomer does not pull any of it. Nutsedge has a vein connected to a ball at the end and when it is pulled away will signal new seeding, nutsedge was brought here for ground cover, it originated in brazil..

Ric
05-24-2007, 07:20 PM
if im not mistaken image is atrazine based. MUCH cheaper to pick up a bottle of atrazine at the co op. Working well for us so far.

Pro Scapes

That must be some kind of Atrazine to control Sedge, or else you don't know what Sedge is.

RAlmaroad
05-24-2007, 08:03 PM
Right again Ric. ProScapes: Image in Imaquin based. Hence the name. Thanks, Roy

DUSTYCEDAR
05-24-2007, 08:15 PM
just park a kiddie pool on top of it for a few days and it will die

ed2hess
05-24-2007, 09:35 PM
I found little difference between Image and Manage. Both supressed yellow nutsedge for a good portion of the season, but not all year. Image seemed a little less effective on mature plants. I've been hitting it with Certainty this year while it's still in the 2-3 leaf stage.

Nutsedge has exploded this year! Pent up after 2 brutal years of drought. Sure is different than last year, right Mr. Hess?
We got this stuff everywhere....almost ready to switch to growing sledge rather than grass.

Nathan Robinson
05-24-2007, 09:43 PM
I was thinking of this thread earlier and felt that I should have said more. I dont use a high N fertilizer this time of year. It stimulates sedges reproductive nutlets and then your problem emurges. I dont use atrazine bases all the time for my sedge problems (which are usually only in beds because of my well balanced fertilizers at the RIGHT time) and I know what sedge is. Anyhow, Halosulfuron-methyl is the cheapest way to control this outside of applying fertilizers the correct way. The summer time is not the best time to control sedge either. It is a good time but anytime the photosythesis are up and going (which is now) is the best time. Dont wait until summer. Sedges not only produce seeds off of there triangular shoot they also produce reproductive nutlets in the root system. If you wait you will battle this again next year. Spot spray now and keep doing so until problem is gone. If you have a huge breakthrough in the turfgrass area you have applied to much N or there is bare areas which will become a crabgrass bed here in the weeks to come.

Rob.C
05-25-2007, 12:06 AM
totaly agree, get it gone now, summer u will also damage surrounding grass.

NattyLawn
05-25-2007, 07:05 AM
totaly agree, get it gone now, summer u will also damage surrounding grass.

Just to clarify in your previous post that Sedgehammer and Manage are different products, they are in fact the same.

Rob.C
05-25-2007, 04:09 PM
yeah but not made by the same people, manage I have had the best luck with.

NattyLawn
05-25-2007, 04:41 PM
yeah but not made by the same people, manage I have had the best luck with.

You're right, it's not made by the same people, but Gowan bought the rights from Monsanto, so it's the same product.

http://www.landscapemanagement.net/landscape/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=178621

Rob.C
05-25-2007, 09:19 PM
wow thats surprising, I havnt used it in about a year, but when I was using it, the company I was working for mixed it in a 500gal tank and I know they mixed it wrong, it was causing damage every where.

DiamondLawn
05-11-2009, 08:03 AM
I find SedgeHammer to be a great product unfortunately my experience is a minimum of 3 applications before complete kill and even the older(larger) nutsedge always seems to reappear in a couple 3 months. If the lawn is not overly populated with the nutsedge weed. I prefer to dig them out and when doing so by no means shake the soil or you are likely going to drop the tubers back into the ground. refill holes with top soil in these situations. to erradicate these sedges it is almost imperative to address therm as young plants. In my opinion and experience they are the most difficult of all weeds to kill. I';ve had trouble killing them off with professional strength "Round-Up". If possible dig them up

Ric
05-11-2009, 11:11 AM
Halo

Since this thread started I have been using "Certainty" and find it does a better job than Sledge Hammer-Manage.

lawnguy26
05-11-2009, 01:12 PM
Halo

Since this thread started I have been using "Certainty" and find it does a better job than Sledge Hammer-Manage.

I second that.....switched to Certainty this year and very pleased. It also has some broadleaf control which sedge hammer does not.

greendoctor
05-11-2009, 01:17 PM
As soon as Certainty was registered in Hawaii back in 2006, I switched. Sedgehammer(Manage), will not control kyllinga and it does not control broadleaf weeds in the lawn.

jcthorne
05-11-2009, 03:49 PM
Certainty works well, but is not cost effective. Sedgehammer at $19.00 and ounce still seems to be the way to go.

LawnoftheMonth
05-11-2009, 07:35 PM
Certainty works well, but is not cost effective. Sedgehammer at $19.00 and ounce still seems to be the way to go.

i must have gotten ripped off, i paid over 100.00 for a 1.3 oz bottle of sedgehammer a few months ago. :hammerhead:

gregory
05-11-2009, 10:03 PM
i like certainty better the manage i have also tried dismiss it works very well also but burns the tips of the grass when applied at the lowest rate.....

cod8825
05-11-2009, 11:40 PM
You know I like how all you warm season grass applicators keep suggesting certainity when we can't use it here in Kansas City for it will kill our Fescue blends.

Matt

lawnguy26
05-12-2009, 12:50 AM
Certainty works well, but is not cost effective. Sedgehammer at $19.00 and ounce still seems to be the way to go.

What the hell!!....I feel like being impressed. Show me where I can get sedgehammer @ $19 per ounce and I WILL be impressed....and thankfull.

jcthorne
05-12-2009, 07:33 AM
What the hell!!....I feel like being impressed. Show me where I can get sedgehammer @ $19 per ounce and I WILL be impressed....and thankfull.

Check your PM

Ric
05-12-2009, 09:20 AM
Check your PM

jcthrone

You may PM me with where to buy Sledgehammer for $ 19.00. Sledgehammer works good, but Certainty just works a little better.

JamesIslander
05-12-2009, 10:21 PM
If it can be had for that price please pm me as well. Thanks

tlc-hd
05-12-2009, 10:46 PM
For a fast knock down of sedges I use Dissmiss in our climate it holds for about six weeks dont use surfactant or it will yellow the turf . The very best (and most expensive) product i've found is monument unfortunately for non residential use only, but it really works

coiclawn
05-13-2009, 07:30 AM
Certainty works well, but is not cost effective. Sedgehammer at $19.00 and ounce still seems to be the way to go.

Ditto. If you have a line on sedgehammer @ 19.00 per oz. please let me know.

jcthorne
05-13-2009, 10:16 PM
jcthrone

You may PM me with where to buy Sledgehammer for $ 19.00. Sledgehammer works good, but Certainty just works a little better.


Thats funny......"I MAY pm you"......should i feel priviledged or something?

gregory
05-15-2009, 02:24 PM
anybody get any info on where to get this for that price?

Ric
05-15-2009, 03:26 PM
anybody get any info on where to get this for that price?

Gregory

Not Me!!! I guess I didn't say Pretty Please.

ATVracer
05-15-2009, 05:16 PM
It's because you can't buy an ounce of it for $20. Maybe he was referring to one of those single use dissolveable packets.

LawnoftheMonth
05-15-2009, 07:58 PM
well i feel special, i got a PM :P

gregory
05-15-2009, 09:01 PM
well i feel special, i got a PM :P

then by all means sharing is caring......

jcthorne
05-15-2009, 09:17 PM
It's because you can't buy an ounce of it for $20. Maybe he was referring to one of those single use dissolveable packets.

For those to whom I PM'd the info. There is no need to share the info with this guy.......he already knows it all.

gregory
05-15-2009, 09:20 PM
For those to whom I PM'd the info. There is no need to share the info with this guy.......he already knows it all.

would you care to share this info with me?

nutsedgestinks
06-18-2009, 02:41 PM
Certainty works well, but is not cost effective. Sedgehammer at $19.00 and ounce still seems to be the way to go.

Dear Sir, could you please, please send me a PM in regards to your source where I can buy Sedgehammer? Thanks!

I offer this following article that says that Sedgehammer is still the best, over Dismiss and Certainty.

http://www.gcsaa.org/GCM/2009/march/pdfs/nutsedge.pdf