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weedwacker59
05-23-2007, 08:12 PM
:confused: i have a b&s 19hp i took apart the carb and gave it a good cleaning....and i replaced the springs and all in the fuel pump.. but i believe im not putting the springs back in the right place (fuel pump)....is there any ideals were i might see a picture of the fuel pump on the internet, etc.... any help would be great. thanks.....:

p.s. M# 42a707 type 1251 code 9509085B

Restrorob
05-23-2007, 10:24 PM
You mean something like this ?


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/BriggsLTwinCarb.jpg


Oh, Welcome to LawnSite !

weedwacker59
05-24-2007, 06:41 PM
yes ..just like that.....i cant Thank you enough Restrorob ....

BUT....i put it all back togather just like the picture...i also used a dab of grease to hold the springs in place ...everything went back together perfect.

BUT im still not getting any gas to the carb.....i can pour gas in the carb and it will start up right away....till the gas runs out.....any other ideals????

Restrorob
05-24-2007, 07:18 PM
You didn't by chance put the fuel line from the tank on the bottom inlet did you ? I have seen this quite a few times.

weedwacker59
05-24-2007, 08:18 PM
no.... i have the line from the tank going to the side ....and the one on the bottom going to the engine block...ive checked all the basics.....just not puimping gas.....i know i have the fuel pump done right ....i just dont get it....maybe i should take it to a pro....*trucewhiteflag*

Bill Kapaun
05-24-2007, 08:43 PM
IS the line from the block well sealed? NO leaks!
Fuel line air locked? Does gas drain to the pump?

Restrorob
05-24-2007, 08:49 PM
maybe i should take it to a pro....

Or listen to a pro ?

These carbs. are simple, Just need to check a few things.

Did you replace the fuel filter ?

How many times did you put fuel in the intake and try to start it ?

If the tank is mounted in the rear of the unit and you installed a rebuilt empty carb it can take a few times of adding fuel in the intake to get the pump primed and bowl filled to run.

Other things to check;

Remove the fuel line from the carb, Loosen the gas cap and see if you can blow back through the line. I have seen big bugs, leaves etc. clog the outlet and not let fuel pass.

Remove the top of the carb and hold up-side down, The float should be just a little higher than level. While the top is off and with the fuel line re-connected and both plug wires dis-connected and away from any metal covers HOLD a rag just above the lower half of the carb and bump the engine over QUICKLY and see if fuel pumps out of the hole in the carb closest to the fuel pump.

weedwacker59
05-25-2007, 06:02 PM
i have primed it maybe 8 or 10 times or more.....the lines are clear i even replaced them with new ones today just in case their might be a leak somewhere i couldnt see are hear..and also replaced the fuel filter

when i prime it ..it will run for a few seconds and then die...right away i pull the line off the carb and it is bone dry.

:hammerhead:

Restrorob
05-25-2007, 07:06 PM
Just a re-cap;

Fuel in tank
New fuel lines and filter
New pump to crankcase (impulse) line
Fuel lines connected to fuel pump properly

Remove the impulse line from the pump and hold your finger over the end lightly while cranking the engine over. You should feel the impulse ?

Did you perform the check below ?

Remove the top of the carb and hold up-side down, The float should be just a little higher than level. While the top is off and with the fuel line re-connected and both plug wires dis-connected and away from any metal covers HOLD a rag just above the lower half of the carb and bump the engine over QUICKLY and see if fuel pumps out of the hole in the carb closest to the fuel pump.

If so go back into fuel pump and see what isn't right, These diaphragms can be installed up side down in which they will not pump. I have seen the flaps in the diaphragm move to the side of the port during assembly also.

If you have fuel supply and engine vacuum the only thing that will keep this thing from pumping is the diaphragm and springs.

weedwacker59
05-25-2007, 07:10 PM
ok...just came in took top of carb off like u said....fuel is pumping though hole......warning !! dont look over top of hole while turning engine over.....float seams to be right, etc.....

Restrorob
05-25-2007, 07:30 PM
That is why I said; HOLD a rag just above the lower half of the carb


OK the fuel pump is pumping, Now locate the hole on the top half of the carb that aligns with the hole in the lower half. Hold the top half as you were going to install it (float hanging down) and spray carb & choke cleaner with the straw through this hole and see if it sprays out around the float needle valve.

If it doesn't then remove the needle valve and clean that port out any way possible, Spray back through were the needle seats until the port is open.

weedwacker59
05-25-2007, 08:37 PM
ok....cleaned out the fuel hole you were talking about....worked good and started on its on and ran about 30 seconds.....when i tighen the carb down it wants to die....runs on and off choke for another 30 secomds......???

Restrorob
05-25-2007, 08:57 PM
Did you buy a complete rebuild kit for this carb. ?

If so check the gasket between the top and bottom, Briggs supplies 4 or so gaskets in the kit, If the wrong one is installed one or more of the parts can be blocked. This gasket can be installed up side down also blocking ports.

weedwacker59
05-25-2007, 10:19 PM
no .. i only put a kit in the fuel pump , because it was leaking.....

but i also notice a min. ago the needle on the float is sticking.....when i hold it upside down and work the float down the needle does come out

Restrorob
05-26-2007, 08:28 AM
Install a new float needle valve and see if that doesn't solve the sticking. Also get a new gasket for the top and bottom halves, Take the old gasket with you to make sure you get the proper one and make sure it's installed so not to cover the fuel pump inlet port to the top half.

weedwacker59
05-26-2007, 11:48 AM
Restrorob...first of all thanks for all the help....i replaced the needle (seems it had a small nick in its side) and gasket ....fired up the first time and running great..again thanks for the help...if i have more trouble down the road ....i know were to come too.

weedwacker59

weedwacker59
05-26-2007, 12:02 PM
oh yeah....is thier any where to add fluid to the rear end....its a little stiff shifting now not bad but i notice it is a little tighter?

Restrorob
05-26-2007, 05:24 PM
You never stated what brand unit this engine was on ?

Need model and serial number off the unit.

weedwacker59
05-28-2007, 09:24 AM
sears craftman model#917252561 s#09139c 014707

Restrorob
05-28-2007, 04:46 PM
Hmmm, These trans-axles take Bentonite grease. But your problem is really not lack of grease per say. The problem with these older units is the shift shaft, They rust internally and the hole it slides into corrodes causing tight shifting.

I have tried spraying all sorts of penetrating oil around them trying to get them to loosen with little to no results (but you can try).

The only sure fix I have found is removing the trans-axle from the unit, Remove the top cover then the shift shaft. Clean the shaft with emery paper then run a thin strip through the hole cleaning it also. Then grease the heck out of the shaft before re-installing back in the hole. Then add a little more Bentonite to the trans. since it's open.

Should you open this one up be careful of the shift detent ball, It and the spring could fall out once the shift shaft is removed.



http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/PeerlessTractorShiftShaft.jpg

weedwacker59
05-29-2007, 08:39 PM
does the wheel on top for the drive belt have to come off first ....before the top will come off?

weedwacker59
05-29-2007, 08:45 PM
sorry...i give you the wrong s# its...091395c 014707

that rear end does not look like the same one.

Restrorob
05-29-2007, 09:21 PM
Yes the big drive pulley must come off to get to a screw down in the center of the case in order to remove the top half.

Sears/AYP only uses the model number for parts look-up so the serial number makes no difference. The pic I posted is the trans-axle for the "model number" tractor you posted. If yours does not look exactly like the one in the pic someone has replaced it along the line.

Here is the full break-down, But.....Even if it is slightly different the problem at hand requires the same procedure to repair.



http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/PeerlessTransBreak-down-2.jpg

weedwacker59
05-29-2007, 09:50 PM
ok this picture has the bottom half also ...looks more like it thank you.
and also thank you for putting up with me.....by the time im though with this i should be able to rebuild one of these dang things..lol

weedwacker59
05-31-2007, 08:01 PM
restrorob i took the top of the trans axle like u said....very very careful not to let the spring and ball fall out,,,,but their was none there.
if im not mistaking you said it would be under the shift shaft..but not one there...also i was going to ask before i tried to get the shaft out ...it should go out from on top to the bottom (inside) right?? thanks again.

Restrorob
05-31-2007, 10:47 PM
Hopefully this will clear things up....

weedwacker59
06-01-2007, 11:05 PM
thanks restrorob....shifts like new.....and runs really smoth....