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View Full Version : New 25 hp Kawi not running right


lzrj
06-10-2007, 12:13 PM
I bought a everride warrior last fall with a 25 hp kawi and 54" deck. I only had 20 hours on it. Started mowing last night and after it warmed up, the engine stared "surging". At full throttle, RPM's will fall then go back up, fall and then go back up making it impossible to mow. If I throttle it down to idle it will die. It's still under warranty but I just got it back from another warranty repair with the pump belt. My main guess is that something is wrong with the carburator (needs cleaning, ect..). But with only 20 hours, I should not be having any of these problems. It's becoming very frustrating. Anyone have any ideas.

Restrorob
06-10-2007, 12:28 PM
It only takes one time putting fuel in to contaminate the carb. with trash/water. Unfortunately carb. cleanings are not covered under warranty for that very reason.

Is the fuel thats in it from last fall ?

lzrj
06-10-2007, 12:35 PM
I just put brand new fuel in it just before I started to mow. Got it from the shell station so its not just cheap gasoline. I get all my gas there and never any problems. What's the cost of a carb cleaning or how hard is it to do it myself? I do minor repairs to my vehicles but never worked on a carb.

lzrj
06-10-2007, 12:48 PM
Also just looked at the warranty and it states nothing about the carb not being covered. It states only clutch, brake linings, light bulbs, filters, lubricants and coolants, spark plugs and injector nozzles.

khouse
06-10-2007, 02:11 PM
I have installed sediment bowls in line on some mowers. Hopefully most of the water will drop to the bottom of the bowl. It's only successful if the owners regularly checks and clean the bowl out. But Restrorob is right on with the contaminated fuel problem and fix. I haven't seen a scientific report on performance issues but would guess that 75% of most engine issues result from contaminated fuel. "when in doubt- clean it out"

Restrorob
06-10-2007, 03:21 PM
Also just looked at the warranty and it states nothing about the carb not being covered. It states only clutch, brake linings, light bulbs, filters, lubricants and coolants, spark plugs and injector nozzles.

From Kawasaki's web site Q/A section.

What does my factory warranty cover?

Any material or workmanship found to be defective by Kawasaki within the warranty period shall be remedied without charge for parts or labor at any authorized Kawasaki dealer located within the United States of America.

A dirty/contaminated carb. is not a factory defect.

Should you go into this carb and clean it make SURE not to get ref.#24 low speed jets and ref.#22 and 23 main jets mixed up, They have different size holes in the middle.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/FH601721Carb.jpg

lzrj
06-10-2007, 06:19 PM
Thanks for all your help and the diagram Restrorob. I did drain all the gas and changed the spark plugs. After I tried it again, started doing it again after 10 minutes. I may tear down the carb and clean it and see what that does. If I do it, how will I know if I get all the adjustments back after its together again?

I did run into another problem when I changed the plugs. The right one came right out but the left one I had to use the wrench to undo it all the way which worried me. When I got it out, it looked like the treads on the block were stripped a little (The end of the old plug thread was bad too so I was just hoping it was the plug and not the block). But I had to use the wrench to get the new one back in all the way again. I'm afraid what will happen to that thread over the years of changing the plug. Should not be dealing with all of this on a new $8000 mower. This I will talk to the dealing tomorrow.

I'm starting to think this thing may be a lemon.

Restrorob
06-10-2007, 07:01 PM
If I do it, how will I know if I get all the adjustments back after its together again?

Well, The only adjustment on this carb. (that you should mess with) is the idle speed and you don't have to mess with that just to clean it. Also you don't have to strip it down as shown above.

Just remove the solenoid valve then the float bowl, Remove the low and high speed jets but label which hole they came out of to get them back in the same holes. Remove the float and float valve, Then spray carb & choke cleaner with the little straw through ALL ports and passages then follow with compressed air if available. Do the same cleaning on the top half of the carb, Then spray through each jet one at a time and re-install it (be careful not to blow it out of your fingers).

Re-assemble the whole carb and re-install, Make sure there is no trash in the bottom of your tank then flush the fuel lines and replace the fuel filter.

Also, If you have a camera snap a couple pics of the linkage before you start ripping, They could come in handy.

khouse
06-10-2007, 07:02 PM
You may be treading on thin ice with the thread issue. If you happen to remove the plug in the future put some anti-seize compound on it. If it won't tighten up then you'll have to install a heli-coil.

Bill Kapaun
06-10-2007, 07:26 PM
You might want to get a thread chasing tap and clean up the threads next time.

Eric D
06-10-2007, 07:41 PM
I know this is a little late into the thread but when you received your unit back from the dealer is there any chance to fuel shutoff could had be turned off or part way off?

Eric D

lzrj
06-10-2007, 07:54 PM
Fuel shut off was one of the first things I looked at. Wish that was it though.

heritage
06-10-2007, 09:20 PM
All good advice here.

One thing I have not seen suggested yet is to be sure the gas tank vent (most likely in gas cap) is open/venting. Try running in place with cap off, and tank 1/4 full.

Sometimes we overlook the simple stuff.


Good Luck,

Pete

lzrj
06-10-2007, 10:00 PM
I also checked the gas cap vent as well and also not it. After it started surging the first time, I unscrewed the gas cap and it never changed. Believe me, I don't forget about that simple stuff. I believe in the KISS philosophy ( Keep It Simple Stupid) :hammerhead: . I'm too ignorant with engine stuff when it comes to the big repairs.

I followed my instructor and was able to get the carb apart and cleaned. I will have to get a new screw that I destroyed trying to get the float chamber off of the main body. Also one of the large thin gasket rings swelled and I cant get it back in its seat. So I will have to get those two new parts tomorrow before I can put it back together and test.

I will write back tomorrow with the results. Fingers crossed.

lzrj
06-12-2007, 08:56 AM
I got everything back together yesterday and mowed for about an hour. Between the carb cleaning and the fuel filter change, that seemed to work. The machine is running smoothly now. Thanks for all the help.

Hey Restrorob. I saw a thread from you about adjusting the idle but cant find it now. The dealer thought the mower seemed a little under powered and I have to agree. Was thinking maybe the idle is off some and the engine may not be going to full throttle when I put the throttle level up all the way. What is the best way to adjust or see if the engine is at full throttle. The dealer thought maybe it was just because the engine was new and not broke in yet.

khouse
06-12-2007, 09:23 AM
A tachometer would would tell you if it's running at the correct high idle.

topsites
06-12-2007, 10:06 AM
Hmmm that's odd, I have 50 hours on mine, hope i don't get that...
Have you cleaned out the air filter housing?
I'd replace the spark plug, how's the oil?

I just put brand new fuel in it just before I started to mow. Got it from the shell station so its not just cheap gasoline. I get all my gas there and never any problems. What's the cost of a carb cleaning or how hard is it to do it myself? I do minor repairs to my vehicles but never worked on a carb.

I usually get a can of store brand Carb cleaner at Advance, 2-3 dollars, then take off the air filter and spray it all down real good, dripping and soaking, then let it dry. Get all the linkages and springs and everything that moves too, compressed air is helpful to have as well.

Do that for now, see what happens.

btw, if you watch the mailer inserts, from time to time AAP has a sale on carb cleaner, I bought a whole box (I think 12 or 24 of the cans) for 99 cents or so each.

Restrorob
06-12-2007, 12:10 PM
First, With the engine off and throttle at wide open look at the throttle control plate and see if the cable is pulling the lever all the way to wide open. It could be as simple as a cable adjustment.

As khouse mentioned it's best not to try adjusting the high idle speed without a tach due to over-rev and premature engine failures.

Here is the tach/hour meter I use; http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/gasoline.php, It's the one on top.

I can re-post the adjustment procedure later, I'm at work right now.