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philk17088
06-12-2007, 09:09 PM
The 90 degree gear box on my ultra puked last week. I called and ordered it overnight. I wasn't surprised at the freight charge but $250 for the GEAR BOX???????????????.

I replaced the entire transaxle last month for $475.
How can that little piece cost $250?

I like the machine but with just 500 hours Ihave replaced:

2 pumps
1 starter
1 diode
1 carb
1 ign coil
1 shutoff plate
2 throttle cables
2 neutral switches
1 kill switch
1 battery
1 paddle
Now waiting on new safety unit.

Is this unusal?
I am very meticulous with the maintenance of this but JEEZ!:cry:

turf hokie
06-12-2007, 10:31 PM
The 90 degree gear box on my ultra puked last week. I called and ordered it overnight. I wasn't surprised at the freight charge but $250 for the GEAR BOX???????????????.

I replaced the entire transaxle last month for $475.
How can that little piece cost $250?

I like the machine but with just 500 hours Ihave replaced:

2 pumpscareful what you run thru it. some chems chew them up
1 starterget a hot wire kit, who cares if you have to pull it to stat as long as it starts
1 diode
1 carbno answer they just crap out, its a briggs
1 ign coil They go if you store them where it is humit
1 shutoff platehad to upgrade 2 of mine to the magnum hopper b/c they would not hold their calibration
2 throttle cables
2 neutral switches
1 kill switch
1 batteryknock on wood no problems, but i bypass the electric start so that might help
1 paddle
Now waiting on new safety unit.

Is this unusal?
I am very meticulous with the maintenance of this but JEEZ!:cry:

I have 3 ultras and dont even want to keep up with the parts that I have put into them.

that gear box is rediculous and the price for it. I had to get one this week too.
Did it burn out or did the allen screws loosen up. I had on that the allen screws just had to be tightened. But keep an eye on it, b/c the allen screw will wear out the metal on the elbow and then you are screwed.(ha,ha)

I always just think that we are hard on the machines, but they have a lot that goes wrong with them just when you really need them. Like I said I have 3 and only need 2. The third is to rotate in to production when one of the others breaks down and is out for a week.

philk17088
06-12-2007, 10:42 PM
OK so I am not losing my mind.
I use the pull start most of the time but dammit if its on the machine it should be in working order.
I hate hillbillying things together and right now thats what it feels like with all the stuff breaking in the last 2 weeks.

Rlclawnguy
06-13-2007, 01:23 PM
we replaced our gear box about a month ago and was thinking the same exact thing. It is crazy what this stuff costs! It wouldn't even be that bad if it was just something here and there. We have a setup with an enclosed trailer to carry a z-spray unit and 2 pgs. But most of the time we only go out with 2 guys because 75% of the time we take 3 one of the PG's breaks down. Its crazy how much time those machines spend with our mechanic.

I also hear you about the "hillbillying". You call them for support and they want to bypass stuff and change the way it runs. One was they wanted to change the electric. I finally decided that I was sick of hacking all the wires so we actually bought a whole new wire harness and a motorcycle battery and everything with those parts are working great (knock on wood!).

americanlawn
06-13-2007, 07:47 PM
I hear ya -- We currently have 2 ride-ons in the repair shop, a LESCO Z-two that's been down for over 3 weeks, and a PG Ultra down for over a week (still waiting on both). I would gladly pay $10,000 for a machine that did not break down for the first 3 years. Seems no manufacturer can come up with a "rider" that does not shell out quickly??? Kinda weird, cuz many "zero-turn mowers" last up to 15 years or more?

Rlclawnguy
06-14-2007, 07:51 AM
Shortly after I posted my last message my second PG went down. This time the frame broke and has to go to the welder. The other one did the same thing just 4 weeks ago. I guess the only positive is that the parts came in for the other one so that guys can keep working if it stays working through the whole day.

Puttinggreens
06-14-2007, 08:30 AM
ZZZZZZZZZZZ - spray,

I probably do the minimun maintenace, it goes out every day, I spray all kinds of thick fungicide mixtures, iron, speedzone, surge etc no problems. Have not spent $200 on parts in about 2 1/2 years. Can't beat thei service department either.

I know you have heard this all before but it is true.

heritage
06-14-2007, 05:24 PM
Too bad PG did not go from the Centuri, right onto the Magnum. The Ultra is their worst piece IMO!

Good luck Ultra owners,

Pete D

Rlclawnguy
06-16-2007, 08:12 AM
I have a z-spray and am trying to phase out the PG's but the cost is high to do it all in one year, but the cost seems almost as high in parts and labor to keep our two PG's running for one guy.

DUSTYCEDAR
06-18-2007, 07:52 AM
it stinks when the tool u need breaks

TLS
06-18-2007, 08:54 AM
How many of these people having problems with PG Magnums are solo owner operators doing their own PM on the units?

And those that are, how heavily are these units used?


Sorry I just realized this thread wasn't specifically about Magnums....

vegomatic40
06-19-2007, 11:12 AM
I've had zero problems with my PG Magnum...since it was sold last year and bought 2 Lesco HPS. So far I've replaced a float bowl and 2 gaskets for a whopping $23.00. Also had to grind a small area to keep the metal from contacting the float bowl. Since then no problems.

Grandview
06-20-2007, 07:58 AM
Putting Greens. In 2.5 years how many hours do you have on your Z-spray. 200.00 in parts is not much. My Permagreens are starting to cost me in maintenance, but one machine has over 550 hours and the other 450.

richard coffman
06-20-2007, 07:38 PM
i have a PG magnum and it works nice, i take it easy on the machine and don't try to run it to death.i think they did a great thing when they installed the honda engines o them and changed a few things around. it's last years model and i couldn't be happer with it. i just think of what it was like 10 years ago without these nice machines we have now in the fert industry and what a pain it was to push around the old lesco rotary spreaders and how much harder it was to use the liquid fert tanks with the hand crank hose reel. in short, when you feel like taking a baseball bat to your machine for problems,just remember the good old days when we didn't have these things, it'll give you a new appreciation for the quality machines that we have now. just my 2 cents.

TLS
06-21-2007, 09:41 AM
just think of what it was like 10 years ago without these nice machines we have now in the fert industry and what a pain it was to push around the old lesco rotary spreaders and how much harder it was to use the liquid fert tanks with the hand crank hose reel. in short, when you feel like taking a baseball bat to your machine for problems,just remember the good old days when we didn't have these things, it'll give you a new appreciation for the quality machines that we have now. just my 2 cents.

I'm not implying that anyone is new here in this thread, but in general, our industry (mainly the mowing side) fails in this way of thinking. Many of the newer guys just don't remember how bad it WAS. They never had to do things the "hard" way. Things today are like easy street now. Some of these newer guys' parents don't even remember how things were prior to all these newer advancements we have.

americanlawn
06-21-2007, 05:53 PM
TLS -- I hear ya buddy. Things could be worse. My folks grew up in the Great Depression -- THEY had it hard! On the other hand, there are many fine mowers out there that last for 20 years or more...........still waiting for ride-on sprayer/spreader that works for more than one year without breakdowns. With all the complaints by all of us (including me), I'm thinking Permagreen, Z-Spray, C&S, etc have their thinking caps on right now. Hope so. Maybe one with a "hemi" too. LOL Regards.

Stillwater
06-22-2007, 01:14 AM
The 90 degree gear box on my ultra puked last week. I called and ordered it overnight. I wasn't surprised at the freight charge but $250 for the GEAR BOX???????????????.

I replaced the entire transaxle last month for $475.
How can that little piece cost $250?

I like the machine but with just 500 hours Ihave replaced:

2 pumps
1 starter
1 diode
1 carb
1 ign coil
1 shutoff plate
2 throttle cables
2 neutral switches
1 kill switch
1 battery
1 paddle
Now waiting on new safety unit.

Is this unusal?
I am very meticulous with the maintenance of this but JEEZ!:cry:

Why do you like this machine? if I had to replace the list of parts you have in your post I personaly would consider it a POS

Grandview
06-22-2007, 05:57 AM
He likes the machine because it produces 300.00/hr gross.

rcreech
06-22-2007, 09:56 AM
500 hours on a machine and you expect not to put a little money into it? If you look at the big picture and not just the receipt it really doesn't cost that much to maintain these machines. What is the difference in putting a battery, tires or brakes on your vehicle? These things don't last forever. I have a PG Magnum that has made my life easy! If I have to put money into my machine that is fine. Maintenance and upkeep are normal on all mechanical equipment especailly when dealing with fertilizer and pesticides. If you don't like it, push your spreader and pull a hose. But remember....they take maintenance and upkeep also!

philk17088
06-22-2007, 04:18 PM
He likes the machine because it produces 300.00/hr gross.
Easily!
Oh and the starter rope broke this morning.

ant
06-22-2007, 10:57 PM
i have centri parts f/s

Runner
06-24-2007, 01:01 PM
Here is my situation. I need a Delta switch for my 6hp Briggs motor on my Ultra SE. At random, it would not want to start and would not spark. John at PG told me that is what it probably was, and I unhooked the wire connector (lower right as you're on the machine). He would send another out, but wanted 40 bucks for it. It seems to me that I could find this a bit cheaper for such a common motor. Any ideas? Solid leads appreciated.

RigglePLC
06-24-2007, 03:51 PM
Runner,
Did removeing the wire fix the problem? What do you mean by the "delta switch"? The black wire that goes from the lower right and (I think) goes through the hour meter and then to the on/off switch?

Any auto parts or mower shop will have a generic on/off switch for a dollar or two. If problem persists, it would be wise to install a new wire, in case it has been chaffing against the frame and shorting out.

In my case the spark plug fouls out about once a month. No spark--no go. Put in a new plug to be sure.

philk17088
06-24-2007, 05:11 PM
Here is my situation. I need a Delta switch for my 6hp Briggs motor on my Ultra SE. At random, it would not want to start and would not spark. John at PG told me that is what it probably was, and I unhooked the wire connector (lower right as you're on the machine). He would send another out, but wanted 40 bucks for it. It seems to me that I could find this a bit cheaper for such a common motor. Any ideas? Solid leads appreciated.

It may be cheaper but try and find the right diode or what ever that is in there.
I have a problem that electricity is NOt getting from the battery to the starter or the pump. Battery is fine, charging is fine and fuse at the battery is good but no juice coming out. There is some sort of diode on that wire too.

Runner
06-24-2007, 10:00 PM
Yeah,...here is the weird thing. The connector is plugged in like it is supposed to be, I have power to the starter, and power to the pump. I just don't get spark to the spark plug. When I pull the connector out, I get spark, and still get power to the pump and starter. However, my battery is not charging...I have been pull starting it. To answer Riggle, I don't believe it is the toggle switch itself. However, when the connector is unplugged, the toggle is disconnected. It stays running whether if the On/Off switch is on or not. To shut it off, I just plug the connector back in. It cuts out regardless if the switch is n or not.
Now,...I DID plug the connector back in before when the switch was on, and it did continue running. That was back when it was working intermittently. Now, it doesn't run at all with the connector running.

RigglePLC
06-24-2007, 11:15 PM
Do you unplug down on the right side of the motor? Or do you unplug up at the back of the switch itself? Install temporarily a new wire from the lower right, and then up to the switch. Does that fix the problem?

And by the way how many volts do you have? Check it at the hot wire on the pump switch.

Runner
06-25-2007, 12:17 AM
The plug is right at the right side of the motor. It is originally wrapped in electrical tape. It is just a thin wire. I haven't tested any wires for volts, yet.

RigglePLC
06-25-2007, 07:51 AM
Put in a new switch. However, with a voltmeter you can check whether or not the switch itself is working.

At wide open throttle you should get about 19 volts (coming off the charging diode) before the voltage regulator--and about 13 volts after the voltage regulator reduces the voltage to protect the battery. No additional diodes under the hood. My fuses corroded and broke off long ago--discarded and spliced the wire--later put in whole new and fatter wire. The fewer splices to corrode, the better. You can check any hot wire to find your battery voltage--the center wire at the pump switch is easiest. The battery voltage should be about 12.8. A good battery will run the pump for about 15 minutes with motor off.

Big problem is that corrrosion can cut 9 strands of a 10 strand copper wire, and it will still read 12 volts--however there will not be enough juice (amperage) to fully power anything.

TLS
06-25-2007, 09:08 AM
As we all know, wire and corrosion are not friends. Corrosion can travel up or down a wire quite a distance. While I don't have experience with fert and wiring, I do have a lot with Salt and wiring.

philk17088
06-25-2007, 04:37 PM
On the inside of the frame under the cover is a connector bolted to the sheetmetal. Open that up and pull the metal diode out and stick in a mimi fuse and try it. If it works with the kill wire connceted, you found the problem. Pat had me cut off the black wire going back to the kill switch to by pass it.

DUSTYCEDAR
06-25-2007, 05:37 PM
i had to clean out the carb on my honda this weekend it had fert in it who would have guessed