View Full Version : Kohler engine not engaging

06-15-2007, 12:27 PM
Have a dixie x2305 I just bought used. It has intermittent problems starting. At times it sounds like grinding or clicking, when I try and start it again it sometimes takes right off. Engine is fine once it is started. Could this be the starter? More of a pain in the butt than anything but I would like to get this fixed and begin enjoying my new purchase. Thanks for any help you can provide.

06-15-2007, 01:09 PM
Sounds like the starter solenoid, But while the starter is off replacing the solenoid it should be taken apart cleaned and re-lubed.

Just done one this morning.....

06-15-2007, 01:40 PM
Thanks for the information. Can I confirm it is the starter solenoid by taking a jumper cable from the + side of the battery and connecting to the small blade on the starter solenoid. If starter does not turn then solenoid is bad? Or since I'm getting it to start sometimes is it just better to replace the solenoid? Thanks again.

Bill Kapaun
06-15-2007, 04:29 PM
"At times it sounds like grinding or clicking, "
One would expect it would TEND to do one OR the other on a consistent basis.
This leads me to believe your problem MAY be simply a bad connection.
FIRST- clean all battery cable connections, including grounds. This includes engine ground to frame and frame ground to neg battery cable.
That said, a bad solenoid could also exhibit the same symptoms, but do the "free" stuff first!

Connecting 12V directly to the small terminal on the solenoid is just energizing the solenoid like when hitting the crank position on the key switch. I don't think it would prove anything, considering the symtoms you describe.
Do you have a Voltmeter? If so, digital or analog?

06-15-2007, 04:34 PM
I have an analog voltmeter. More than willing to do the free stuff first, just hoping it is not the starter. Thanks

Bill Kapaun
06-15-2007, 05:04 PM
After cleaning all the connections, if the problem persists-

Do a couple voltage drop tests. Start on a Higher range on the meter and work down in range. Having a couple "jumper" leads with alligator clips can be useful if you were born without 3-4 hands. (A friend can be helpful here)

1-When CRANKING- Red lead on battery + POST, black lead to stud on
A- battery cable/solenoid connection
B- connection "A" to other solenoid stud
C- other solenoid stud to starter motor stud.
D- Black lead to Battery ground POST.

2-Red lead to ENGINE ground
A- Black lead to frame ground
B- "" to battery - post

IF you find any readings that seem to increase more than expected, you can narrow things down.
Red to battery + POST, black to battery + cable TERMINAL.

Just remember to keep the RED lead toward the battery + and the BLACK lead toward battery ground, wherever you are in the circuit. Always start with a higher rang on the meter. (one that covers battery voltage)
FAILURE to do so can make the pointer inoperative:)
V drop readings should be in the range of .1V or less over most connections. A BUNCH of .1V's can add up over an entire circuit.

06-15-2007, 05:32 PM
Makes sense. I printed these posts and I'll work on it tonight. Thanks for the help. If I get confused as to what the readings mean I'll post my readings for interpretation. Thanks again.

06-15-2007, 06:43 PM
Thanks to all for the help. I'm a little embarrassed to say but it was an electrical connection. After going through all the connections I found a blue wire that was basically hanging by a thread. This is good because the dixie dealer said the engine I have has the starter solenoid in the starter and I would have to replace that at $187. After looking at it when I got home it does not appear that way, but oh well for now. Thanks again, your experience is invaluable!!

Bill Kapaun
06-15-2007, 07:25 PM
FREE is a very good price!:)

06-15-2007, 07:44 PM
FREE is a very good price!

You can say that again. Will still take the readings so I have them in case something goes wrong in the future. Then I will have a good baseline to go off of. Thanks again.

Bill Kapaun
06-15-2007, 08:29 PM
I really wouldn't mess with a lot of "small" readings.
Besides, how will you take them if the engine starts?:)
If you take some, all I'd do is-
Battery+ POST to starter motor STUD when cranking.
Across the battery POSTS when cranking.
If you have a problem at a latter date, you can tell if most your drop is in the "+" side or in the entire circuit.
Entire circuit reading MINUS "+" circuit equals "-" side of the circuit.