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tppate
06-16-2007, 06:09 PM
I did the ultimate stupid mistake. I was jump starting my craftsman and accidentally reversed the jumper cables. It made some interesting noised and quit. I replaced the fuse, checked the relays. The wire where the diode is burned in two. What else could be the problem. I tried jumping directly at the starter and it acts like there is no fire to carb. Is this beyond the realm of self repair or should I just take it to a shop and wait a couple of weeks?

Thanks foor any help

Restrorob
06-16-2007, 06:27 PM
You could have blown a strap in the *bad battery* (I'm guessing the reason for jumping) and now it is not suppling enough voltage to operate the fuel cut-off solenoid. First thing to do is install a new battery in the unit then go from there with any other testing/checking if that doesn't solve the problem.


Don't feel bad, I have a Gravely 4-wheel tractor in the shop now the customer hooked a new battery up back-wards. $298.00 for a new wire harness and a couple hours to install.

tppate
06-17-2007, 05:17 PM
I replaced battery and it turned over and started. I shut it off for a minute and came back to mow. It would not start, the fuse blew, I replaced it, but noticed smoke coming up from the flywheel area with the ignition key on. Any clues?

Bill Kapaun
06-17-2007, 05:42 PM
Did you replace the wire & diode?
Chances are if the wire burned in two, some other wires may have gotten hot enough to melt the insulation and short out.
You may have also burned out or shorted the stator windings in the alternator.

Do you have a Volt meter?

tppate
06-17-2007, 07:50 PM
What do I check with the volt meter?
I noticed the ammeter on the dash pegs to the left when I turn the key on, does that sound like a short?
Which wires typically burn besides the black and yellow with the diode and where do you get that wire w/ diode?

Bill Kapaun
06-17-2007, 11:13 PM
Actually you'll use the Ohm meter part.
Disconnect the leads to the stator and check the resistance reading. There should be 0.2-0.4 OHMS
You have to be precise, because that low of a resistance is ALMOST a dead short.
IF your meter is a digital one, touch the leads together and see what the reading is. ADD that to the reading of the stator.
If analog, ZERO it accurately and look straight at the dial to avoid parallax.

I think this is your tractor- use at your own risk- try to identify it as much as you can, RE: color codes etc. Schematic is page 17.
http://www.oscar-wilson.com/MANUALS/AYP/HD145H42A.PDF

Kohler engine service manual (Chapter 8 is what you need) has the circuit on the "engine side".
http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2339_d.pdf

Chapter 8 has the tests and identification. I "think" in your case, the yellow is a lighting only lead? Are your lights only ON when the engine is running?

What else burned? Look at the schematic and see which circuits received power when the ignition switch was ON. There is a "truth table" at the bottom of the schematic. You can see which switch positions are connected and where that circuit goes.
You might have toasted the switch. You can remove it and check it with the Ohm meter in it's various positions.
Also, a wire may have gotten hot enough to burn the insulation on a "nearby" wire that is on a different circuit.
It's a shame the fuse didn't blow first!
Hope this helps.