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View Full Version : Putting a pull or recoil start on a Briggs 14.5


Ronlawn
06-21-2007, 02:57 PM
I have an electric start only rider mower engine I want to put on an old Ferris 36” walk behind. The engine number is 287707 0224 95. I looked at the Briggs IPL for this http://http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductPage.asp?CatalogID=56B2B9A7-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414&MECID=100&SessionID=43C7B3A0-6A44-4EB2-B2CC-23B437198A68&CategoryID=0&lrid=1&ProductID=56B2BBCB-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414#and it is for multiple engines, but shows two different style of recoil starters; #s 608 and 608A. There are also parts that have to be put on the flywheel, a starter clutch and or I don’t know what for the more modern style pull starter. Can anyone tell me which style pull starter I need and what other parts are necessary – like a different screen or attachments to the flywheel? Thanks Ron

Bill Kapaun
06-21-2007, 04:32 PM
You'll need a different shroud to bolt the starter to-

khouse
06-21-2007, 05:15 PM
Why not fix your electric start?

Ronlawn
06-23-2007, 04:58 PM
The electric start works. I was just trying to put it on a walk behind with out needing a battery. But someone told me I'd still have to use a key ignition for the off and on settings; so I don't know if its a doable thing. Anyone know where I can get a battery mount for a walk behind?

khouse
06-23-2007, 06:15 PM
Go to wallmart and buy a plastic battery box. Mount it any way you can. Then transfer your switch,cables and solenoid to your unit.

petez
06-24-2007, 03:57 AM
You can do it, without useing the ignition switch. I have a electric start motor off a tractor on my walk behind, I left the electric start on mine, but no battery, I have too many tractors to keep buying batteries for them so I have a battery jump box that I use when the tractors need a jump, I use that to start my walk behind by hooking it to the starter post and the other to ground turn on the box, when the engine starts turn off the box and disconnect. I use a toggle switch that goes to the engine killl switch to turn it on and off. The only other problem is if you have a wire that goes to the fuel cutoff on the carb, that I removed and replaced with a bolt.

evan price
07-03-2007, 03:20 AM
Your riding tractor motor is already equipped with the charging system to keep the battery up. I would just find a 12V motorcycle battery that can be made to fit somewhere on your WB frame.
Take a piece of metal plate, 1/4" thick aluminum is great, or some 14-ga steel. Drill two holes in it to mount to the WB somewhere near the motor. Get a pair of toggle switches from Radio Shack, the auto store, or Lowes and mount them in the panel. Locate an easy to reach place for it on top of the motor, or on the WB frame, or whatever. Mount a Ford starter solenoid to the plate on the bottom side (the ones for a Ford Taurus is perfect) Run the kill wire to one switch, a ground wire goes to the other side of that switch, right to the mounting bolt on the panel is great. When the switch is ON it will kill the motor.
Run a large cable from the NEG post on the battery to a good frame ground of the WB, one of the mount bolts for your switch plate is ideal.
Run a battery cable to one post of the solenoid from the starter stud. The "S" terminal of the solenoid, run with 14-awg wire to the other switch. From that switch's other terminal, connect the +12V wire from the alternator, and then install an in-line fuseholder (They make nice ones with a waterproof cap, that use the automotive-style push-in plastic fuses, they are in auto parts stores, lowes, tractor supply, etc.) use a small fuse (10 amp or so is fine). Run the other side of the fuseholder to the other solenoid stud. Then run a battery cable from that same stud to the POS battery terminal.
Motorcycle batteries use small wire rings and are easy to work with, and are smaller than Lawn/Garden batteries... I also like to use Honda Civic batteries (Group Size 56 IIRC) instead of lawn/garden batteries, they last a lot longer and are about the same size but lots more amp-hours, and I get them from junkyards for about $10 each, and they use standard round battery post connectors.

If you don't mind spending a couple bucks more you could get a push-button switch for the starter, or a combination keyswitch with a spring-return start position to do everything real safe and professional-like.

I've done lots of equipment like this from pumps to generators to plate compactors to skid steers to mowers and it works great.