View Full Version : seen my drawings? now check out my PATIOWORK!

07-07-2007, 01:40 AM
here are some pics of a patio i put in for a customer of ours that owns a local barBQ shack. the part i like doing the best is putting in the polymer sand in the cracks. pour it on top, sweep it in, hose her down. its a 1 man job just how i like it. (i have mild OCD), grrrr, check the pics. what you all think? keep in mind i am only the landscape designer, granted i am new to all of this really, i think i am catching on.


07-07-2007, 01:55 AM
Well...I guess you DO like to put that sand on eh? Did you know you are supposed to keep it off the flagstone? Apply it in the cracks only and sweep it and clean it off of the stones then moisten it with a light spray so it does not adhere to the flag?
Betcha didn't huh?

07-07-2007, 02:08 AM
yippers i sure do. it is easier to go back with a metal brush scrape off the top, and then sweep the excess off. that way you dont have deep cracks, they will be level with the rock. and remember the patio was still wet when i took the pics. it came out nice....

07-07-2007, 04:46 AM
That is strange, I was under the impression it was almost impossible to remove and would also leave a stain.

07-07-2007, 06:41 AM
It is easiest to let your blower idle over your flagstone pieces and blow the sand out or off of the stone before wetting, after brooming. We have done many this way; youre wasting your time going back with a brush.

07-07-2007, 08:02 AM
so you did not use any mortar at all on your project? just sand?

07-07-2007, 12:20 PM
easier to go back with a metal brush after? Hey if thats how you want to do it fine but it is much easier to blow the sand off before you wet it than scrape anything off afterward.

use a blower at idle and hold it at a high angle.

07-07-2007, 12:47 PM
i sometimes use a blower, but i didnt have it at the jobsite with me, it was at another job. the metal brushing doesnt take but 5-10 minutes. and the stuff does come off easy as long as you didnt leave any area where it was caked on.

07-08-2007, 10:06 AM
Looks great, really pretty flagstone also. What kind of polymer sand do you use? Is it an additive to the sand or do you have to buy it already added? I have been wanting to give it a try.

07-08-2007, 06:02 PM
we buy it from some place in canada. its already premixed and all comes in a 40-50 lb bag. great stuff.

07-14-2007, 11:57 PM
i was under the impression that polymer sand only worked in joints 2" and under. With flagstone that's impossible to achieve. How does this job age?

07-15-2007, 01:40 PM
if you spray the water on correctly, it has never given me issues before. the joints on this job were all about 3-4 inches. some spots were thinner, and some thicker. i have seem some guys put it so thick that about 2-3 inches down, the sand never gets wet and is still the way it was when it came out of the bag.

but on patios like this, whoever put the sand in originally never put but 1/2 - 1 inch of sand in, and looked terrible. moisture from the ground will over time harden all of it. i always like to put in about 2-3 inches. 4 is pushing it but can work if not stepped on for a while.

Mike Fronczak
07-15-2007, 04:52 PM
I had a stone mason (dry) work from my shop building a display we transported to a Garden show. My expactations of what I feel it should look like (his work) and most contractors are VERY DIFFERNT. His website is www.elblackerstone.com. He built the outdoor shower in my shop durring the winter, we then brought it to the garden show in three pieces. The shower took him about 3 weeks to do, all the stones are hand shaped, as are the patios he does, check out how tight his joints are on his patios.
There is a definte craft to working with stone, I don't think many people know what to look for or that they are willing to pay for it. The ones that do know what to look for/and are willing to pay for it hire him, the rest call a "landscaper". I do mostly maintence work, not because I cannot do installs. I prefer the regular work as oposed to get a job, price ten more get one, etc., not my cup of tea.

07-15-2007, 07:29 PM
www no work

Mike Fronczak
07-16-2007, 09:24 AM
I don't know why the link didn't work? If you type in in your address bar it works.

07-16-2007, 10:27 AM

This one works

07-16-2007, 10:00 PM
Your gaps are waaayyy too wide for a standard polysand to properly do it's job. 1" max on techniseal HP or any other brand for that matter. Alliance makes a "gator Dust" for larger gaps, but only in Grey. Your installation will surely wash out.


07-16-2007, 10:24 PM
mike that guys not bad,Dan snow is good also but the coping course on top gets a little old,and on the subject of the thread i actually agree with cg,but not in such bitter way.

07-16-2007, 10:48 PM
mike that guys not bad,Dan snow is good also but the coping course on top gets a little old,and on the subject of the thread i actually agree with cg,but not in such bitter way.

How was my post bitter? I simply stated some valuable info and facts. Please expound!


07-16-2007, 11:03 PM
i guess not bitter, just abrupt. you could have told the the kid nice try,keep at it ,just because you're right doesn't mea:) n you have to be so fatalistic about it.

07-17-2007, 12:18 AM
I don't like the edge near the steps. Just my opinion. It's not clean and shows the layers. You could saw cut and edge back a few inches, frame out a form and pour some mortar. Finish the mortar off so there's no bubbles or pinholes and it will "lock in" the flagging. Imagine the edge of a counter top...naturally thicker than the actual counter top to give the appearance of depth.