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cross1933
07-20-2007, 01:39 PM
Is it possible to cover,approx. 1", the existing grass with some organic material and then reseed? I am not impressed,actually disappointed, with the job that the builder did on seeding my back yard. The yard was seeded in early May and the grass is about 1 " high. I brought in some top soil and reseeded, seed from Home Depot, and reseeded two areas. The grass that I planted has outgrow the builder grass by about 15 to 1. I will be bringing in more topsoil to level the grade and then reseed that area. Would it be beneficial to cover the rest of the area with a organic material and then reseed, possible a mushroom compost? I plan on starting this in the middle of September.

Turf Professionals Inc.
07-20-2007, 01:45 PM
Get me some pics and I may be able to help you out. There are a few suggestions I have for you but would like to see some pics so I can determine the most practicle means of getting some grass in your yard

cgaengineer
07-20-2007, 01:47 PM
Anytime you can add organic to inorganic soils you are going to have better sucess...sounds to me like the builder did like mine and threw some grass seed on the cut areas and hoped for the best. You would be best with about 3"-6" but if you till into your existing soil then you may get away with 1"...what you dont want is the grass coming up and the roots having to deal with rock hard soils underneath topsoil.

cross1933
07-20-2007, 01:59 PM
Anytime you can add organic to inorganic soils you are going to have better sucess...sounds to me like the builder did like mine and threw some grass seed on the cut areas and hoped for the best. You would be best with about 3"-6" but if you till into your existing soil then you may get away with 1"...what you dont want is the grass coming up and the roots having to deal with rock hard soils underneath topsoil.

We moved into the home in November of 2006, the grass was planted in May of 2007. What I noticed was it appeared they racked over the surface to loosen the to 1/2" and then planted what looks like corn rows of grass. I did request that they lay the sod in the front yard before we closed on the home, the sod is looking good. Is seems like it has rained every other day for the past two weeks, this has made the sod a dark green! I patched a couple of areas in of the sod in May, used to have two labrador dogs. The sod when I unrolled it was yellowish green, bought from Lowes. The sod is matching in with the existing law very nicely, attributed this to lots of watering.

I had the builders project supervisor looking at the yard after it planted. When looking at the yard there was numerous rocks in the soil. I informed the supervisor that grass would not grow thru rocks, he then proceeded to try to convince me that it would. This is the area that I will be raising the grade and replanting in this fall. I have considered taking the rocks out and putting on the yard of the model home to see if grass will grow thru a rock!

cross1933
07-20-2007, 02:05 PM
Get me some pics and I may be able to help you out. There are a few suggestions I have for you but would like to see some pics so I can determine the most practicle means of getting some grass in your yard

I will get some close up,full yard and grass pictures tonight.

cross1933
07-20-2007, 02:09 PM
The last top soil I brought in came from http://844dirt.com/dirt.htm,I used the "top soil" blend. The difference from that soil to the yard is night and day in color. It looks like they are passing off a subsoil as a topsoil.:nono:

I will try to get a closeup picture of where the two soils meet.

cgaengineer
07-20-2007, 10:53 PM
Yes, sounds to me like your grass is trying to grow in cut area...this is almost impossible as the soil is inert and lacks organic matter. Your builder sounds just like mine...I had so many rocks I could have filled the back of a dump truck...It has taken me 3 years to pick them all up and finally get grass to grow and stay alive...my rear lawn looks wonderful...a bit heat stressed (Fescue), but I think it will make it.

cross1933
07-21-2007, 08:36 PM
I will try to post some pictures tomorrow, sidetracked by mowing and assembling my daughters trampoline.

cross1933
07-21-2007, 08:39 PM
Yes, sounds to me like your grass is trying to grow in cut area...this is almost impossible as the soil is inert and lacks organic matter. Your builder sounds just like mine...I had so many rocks I could have filled the back of a dump truck...It has taken me 3 years to pick them all up and finally get grass to grow and stay alive...my rear lawn looks wonderful...a bit heat stressed (Fescue), but I think it will make it.

What do you mean by "cut area"?

I am not sure I could pick up the rocks in 5 years!:rolleyes:

cgaengineer
07-21-2007, 10:52 PM
Cut area is where they removed the top soil to make the building pad for your home...after doing this they usually spread the top soil to the front lawn leaving the crap dirt in the rear lawn for the home owner to deal/struggle with.

cross1933
07-22-2007, 10:46 AM
Here are some pictures of my backyard.

cross1933
07-22-2007, 10:49 AM
deleted, missed attachments

cross1933
07-22-2007, 10:53 AM
more pictures, the last two pictures are the grass that I attempted to plant(home depot grass seed).

cross1933
07-22-2007, 10:57 AM
The final pictures. Pictures of rocks in the yard.

leejp
07-22-2007, 10:59 AM
Is it possible to cover,approx. 1", the existing grass with some organic material and then reseed? I am not impressed,actually disappointed, with the job that the builder did on seeding my back yard. The yard was seeded in early May and the grass is about 1 " high. I brought in some top soil and reseeded, seed from Home Depot, and reseeded two areas. The grass that I planted has outgrow the builder grass by about 15 to 1. I will be bringing in more topsoil to level the grade and then reseed that area. Would it be beneficial to cover the rest of the area with a organic material and then reseed, possible a mushroom compost? I plan on starting this in the middle of September.

Are you in Zone 5 (IL)? September may be too late?

Around here, mid to late August is when new lawns are started. If there's existing lawn, roundup is used to kill it off. If necessary, rocks are raked up, lawn is graded and topsoil/mushroom dirt is spread before it is seeded + rolled. And while going through this trouble, sprinkler systems are put in.

The timing is critical... the rule of thumb I've been told is enough time to germinate and minimum two cuts before first frost. So if you're planting Kentucky Blue with germination 14~28 days, seeding in late August around here safely gets one past the two cuts unless the cold weather hits extremely early. For me... late Summer/early Fall is THE TIME to get the lawn health and robust for the following year. I fertilize several times in the Fall and work extra hard to repair the heat damage.

By the way... You can buy seed at Home Depot but there are better places (local garden centers, online). Looking at your pictures... I definitely think you want to kill off the existing lawn with roundup. A new lawn is practically the only opportunity to get a "monoculture" lawn (all 1 type of grass). Personally, this looks absolutely the best as the lawn's color/texture are consistent throughout. And since it looks like there's little shade on your lawn, I would pick a grass type that's hardier in the full sun/heat.

leejp
07-22-2007, 11:10 AM
If you do grade, I would tier/terrace the grade so instead of a single gentle slope that you have now (at least from the pictures). I would cut in a steeper slope immediately around the house, grade so you have the absolute maximum amount of flat lawn then put additional steep slope in near the fence line (unless septic or other issues prevent this).

If you plan on hiring a landscaper to do this, many of them offer design services at no cost.

leejp
07-22-2007, 11:15 AM
If you do grade, I would tier/terrace the grade so instead of a single gentle slope that you have now (at least from the pictures). I would cut in a steeper slope immediately around the house, grade so you have the absolute maximum amount of flat lawn then put additional steep slope in near the fence line (unless septic or other issues prevent this). It's nice to have a flat area for sports + lawn games.

If you plan on hiring a landscaper to do this, many of them offer design services at no cost. You don't want to move dirt too many times, not to make your project bigger I think you need to keep foundation + tree plantings, hardscape, lights... all in mind when doing this.

cgaengineer
07-22-2007, 12:13 PM
Thats a crapload of rocks!! When I moved into my house we had boulders...the kind of rock that only shows about 2 inches when its just below the surface and when you atart digging its a 200 pounder.

cross1933
07-22-2007, 01:35 PM
Thats a crapload of rocks!! When I moved into my house we had boulders...the kind of rock that only shows about 2 inches when its just below the surface and when you atart digging its a 200 pounder.

I asked the builders service department if grass would grow thru rocks, they told me yes.:dizzy: I should send them a picture of the rocks growing thru the grass.:rolleyes:

The reality of getting those rocks out is non existant. There are soo many small to super small rocks that I could not possible get them out.

cross1933
07-22-2007, 01:46 PM
If you do grade, I would tier/terrace the grade so instead of a single gentle slope that you have now (at least from the pictures). I would cut in a steeper slope immediately around the house, grade so you have the absolute maximum amount of flat lawn then put additional steep slope in near the fence line (unless septic or other issues prevent this). It's nice to have a flat area for sports + lawn games.

If you plan on hiring a landscaper to do this, many of them offer design services at no cost. You don't want to move dirt too many times, not to make your project bigger I think you need to keep foundation + tree plantings, hardscape, lights... all in mind when doing this.

Actually the slope is pretty steep around the remaining areas of the home.The reason I put the trampoline in that area is it is the only place that is not too steep of a grade. The problem there is that the water puddles in that area on a heavy rain, there are storm drains at the back corners of the lot.There is no septic, city utilities.

I will be doing the grading.The parents of girl in my daughters class own a landscaping business in the area, I am thinking of hiring them for some consulting ideas.

cross1933
07-22-2007, 01:54 PM
Are you in Zone 5 (IL)? September may be too late?

Around here, mid to late August is when new lawns are started. If there's existing lawn, roundup is used to kill it off. If necessary, rocks are raked up, lawn is graded and topsoil/mushroom dirt is spread before it is seeded + rolled. And while going through this trouble, sprinkler systems are put in.

The timing is critical... the rule of thumb I've been told is enough time to germinate and minimum two cuts before first frost. So if you're planting Kentucky Blue with germination 14~28 days, seeding in late August around here safely gets one past the two cuts unless the cold weather hits extremely early. For me... late Summer/early Fall is THE TIME to get the lawn health and robust for the following year. I fertilize several times in the Fall and work extra hard to repair the heat damage.

By the way... You can buy seed at Home Depot but there are better places (local garden centers, online). Looking at your pictures... I definitely think you want to kill off the existing lawn with roundup. A new lawn is practically the only opportunity to get a "monoculture" lawn (all 1 type of grass). Personally, this looks absolutely the best as the lawn's color/texture are consistent throughout. And since it looks like there's little shade on your lawn, I would pick a grass type that's hardier in the full sun/heat.

I am am in zone 5.

I have the first week of september scheduled off from work, I was lucky to get the time off this fall. I may try to reschedule for the last week of August, but August is one of the hottest months here.The month of July has been unusually mild this year. This is the first week that there is no rain in the forecast, considering we had rains for the past two weeks with one dumping over two inches last week.

I have three grass seeds that I am growing in pots to determine which one I like the best. The winner at the moment is form the local FS, but the verdict is still out on the winner.

leejp
07-22-2007, 07:37 PM
Looks like you've got a plan cross1933.

I'm a pool owner so I pay close attention to the weather. Check out the historic evening temps in the second half of the month for your area. It may be warm during the day but once the sun goes lower in the horizon, it is far less intense and the temps begin to cool off significantly at nights.

DiyDave
07-22-2007, 09:19 PM
You can spread organic matter over your back yard, but I would do it at a depth of 1/4-1/2" rather than 1". We used to use a product made by a Quasi-state owned company. It was called compro, made of a mixture of sewage sludge solids and composted leaf mold. Because it was funded by the state, there was corruption, waste, problems with quality control etc, etc. Now out of business, but a private entrepenuer has stepped in to fill the void, anyway if you apply large amounts of O.M you may run into fungal, fertility, pathogen problems, anyway. Its always best to apply in moderation, test soil, apply again if you need it. Also, your lawn doesn't look all that bad for a newly seeded lawn- keep in mind that you are comparing it with the sod in front, which is instant gratification. The approach I would use is to do a pH test, lime if needed, apply O.M., powerseed at the appropriate time in the fall, with the appropriate seed for your area, water it as per university recommendations. Also do not apply too much seed/square foot, you'll regret it! Keep in mind that when sod farms plant seed with the object of growing sod, it still takes 12-18 months to harvest that crop. As far as the rocks, they appear to be leftover building debris. If they bother you, the most effective way of removing them is probably picking them up into a bucket, one at a time. I know this is not what you want to hear, but why tear up a lawn that has over 50% cover, and is not old enough to call a failure? Just my 2 cents.:waving: :waving:

cross1933
07-23-2007, 07:45 AM
You can spread organic matter over your back yard, but I would do it at a depth of 1/4-1/2" rather than 1". We used to use a product made by a Quasi-state owned company. It was called compro, made of a mixture of sewage sludge solids and composted leaf mold. Because it was funded by the state, there was corruption, waste, problems with quality control etc, etc. Now out of business, but a private entrepenuer has stepped in to fill the void, anyway if you apply large amounts of O.M you may run into fungal, fertility, pathogen problems, anyway. Its always best to apply in moderation, test soil, apply again if you need it. Also, your lawn doesn't look all that bad for a newly seeded lawn- keep in mind that you are comparing it with the sod in front, which is instant gratification. The approach I would use is to do a pH test, lime if needed, apply O.M., powerseed at the appropriate time in the fall, with the appropriate seed for your area, water it as per university recommendations. Also do not apply too much seed/square foot, you'll regret it! Keep in mind that when sod farms plant seed with the object of growing sod, it still takes 12-18 months to harvest that crop. As far as the rocks, they appear to be leftover building debris. If they bother you, the most effective way of removing them is probably picking them up into a bucket, one at a time. I know this is not what you want to hear, but why tear up a lawn that has over 50% cover, and is not old enough to call a failure? Just my 2 cents.:waving: :waving:

The major driving force behind my replanting is making the grade a more functional yard. The grade is too excessive to have any practical use, as you can see by where I placed the trampoline. I remember when I talked to the city engineer regarding the slope of the yard he suggested that I build the trampoline up on blocks to level it, I almost did not know how to respond to this. I told him that would work if I build it up 3', he said nothing. He did state I could change the grade as long as the drainage was not effected, so I started researching the issue.

The other issue is that it appears that soil left by the builder lacks the quality to produce a decent yard. This I have witnessed by planting grass in top soil that I brought in. If it were not for the areas that I planted I would not have to have mowed the yard yet(factoring out the weeds).

I remember when I used to do customer service work for a water flow meter company. On one job I went to a local waste processing facility, the smell was something that I would have found difficult getting used to. One of the workers stated that the sludge was taken by farmers in the area for their fields.

The idea of spreading a mushroom compost over the area that I do not reseed is a appealing alternative to starting new seed. I will look into the cost then make my final decision.

cross1933
07-23-2007, 07:50 AM
Looks like you've got a plan cross1933.

I'm a pool owner so I pay close attention to the weather. Check out the historic evening temps in the second half of the month for your area. It may be warm during the day but once the sun goes lower in the horizon, it is far less intense and the temps begin to cool off significantly at nights.

Temperatures in the month of July have been around 60-65 deg. at 5:00AM, this is unusually cooler than normal.I suspect that this will rise as we get into the month of August then trend downwards by the end of the month. I will have to consult the farmers almanac to see past trends.

cross1933
07-23-2007, 08:00 AM
Climate date for the closet location,

August:
AVG RECORD
HI 91/2000
LO 52/2004
PR 0.11 2.05/1980
HD
CD

September:
AVG RECORD
HI 89/2002
LO 36/2003
PR 0.09 0.93/1986
HD
CD

Found this at,http://mrcc.sws.uiuc.edu/INTERACT/mwclimate_data_calendars_30days.jsp

jeffinsgf
07-23-2007, 09:28 AM
I am going to side with Dave here. I have looked at all your pictures a couple of times, and don't see the grade issues you're describing. If you level out your yard, you're going to end up with a steep drop back at the property line, which if I were your neighbor, I would complain about loudly.

Don't bother with the gravel, it will incorporate with the topsoil eventually.

Aerate with a core aerator. Topdress at 1/4 to 1/2 inch with compost of choice -- mushroom, worm castings, whatever.

Slit seed in late August / early September.

Do an early (late Feb / early March) pre-emergent application.

Fertilize and water aggressively in the Spring.

Repeat.

Far more important than adding several inches of topsoil to that yard is the water supply. If you want a lush yard, you have to water it. Not once in a while -- all the time. Take the money you were planning to spend on regrading and spend it on an irrigation system.

cross1933
07-23-2007, 11:44 AM
I called the engineering department for the city that I live in. Even though they gave me a verbal go ahead I do not feel comfortable with out a document stating this. I stated I would like to meet with the engineer at my home and go over plans to modify the grade of my back yard. Also a modified drawing of my plot will be made to reflect the changes, so there are no future issues.

I will stake off the are to be changed and run strings to show elevation changes that I wish to make.


Of course while he is there I will point out my concerns with the current grade.

cross1933
07-23-2007, 11:56 AM
I am going to side with Dave here. I have looked at all your pictures a couple of times, and don't see the grade issues you're describing. If you level out your yard, you're going to end up with a steep drop back at the property line, which if I were your neighbor, I would complain about loudly.

Don't bother with the gravel, it will incorporate with the topsoil eventually.

Aerate with a core aerator. Topdress at 1/4 to 1/2 inch with compost of choice -- mushroom, worm castings, whatever.

Slit seed in late August / early September.

Do an early (late Feb / early March) pre-emergent application.

Fertilize and water aggressively in the Spring.

Repeat.

Far more important than adding several inches of topsoil to that yard is the water supply. If you want a lush yard, you have to water it. Not once in a while -- all the time. Take the money you were planning to spend on regrading and spend it on an irrigation system.

The grade issue is more obvious in person, these pictures do not accurately depict the extent of the grade slope. The functionality of this yard is non existant in its current condition.
To modify the grade is will not have any effect on any of the surrounding neighbors yards, not sure where you arrived at that conclusion. In its current status the water puddles in my yard where the trampoline sits. The area where the trampoline is lower than the drain where the neighbors fenced is boxed around.

leejp
07-23-2007, 12:06 PM
I am going to side with Dave here. I have looked at all your pictures a couple of times, and don't see the grade issues you're describing. If you level out your yard, you're going to end up with a steep drop back at the property line, which if I were your neighbor, I would complain about loudly.

I believe he IS going to regrade. If properly terraced and landscaped I think the drop can be managed. What would the complaint be? This sort of grading will not change the water tables so unless the development was built on a swamp I don't see how i's going to impact the neighbor aside from a different view. The neighbor diagonal has a berm (looks like 1~2 feet) built up where they've planted trees. I would mention what I intend to do to all the neighbors though.

cross1933
07-23-2007, 12:37 PM
I believe he IS going to regrade. If properly terraced and landscaped I think the drop can be managed. What would the complaint be? This sort of grading will not change the water tables so unless the development was built on a swamp I don't see how i's going to impact the neighbor aside from a different view. The neighbor diagonal has a berm (looks like 1~2 feet) built up where they've planted trees. I would mention what I intend to do to all the neighbors though.

You are correct on the regrade, that is after I get final approval from the city engineer. If you stood in the center of my backyard and looked at the two connecting yards you would see that my yard is 2' lower at that point.

I have been in communication with the neighbor on the side where the trampoline is, his opinion is that a terrible job was done on the grading. The other one has his home for sale, I do not see very often for he travels alot

cross1933
07-23-2007, 02:26 PM
I believe he IS going to regrade. If properly terraced and landscaped I think the drop can be managed. What would the complaint be? This sort of grading will not change the water tables so unless the development was built on a swamp I don't see how i's going to impact the neighbor aside from a different view. The neighbor diagonal has a berm (looks like 1~2 feet) built up where they've planted trees. I would mention what I intend to do to all the neighbors though.

The development was build on very sandy soil. A storm dumped 2" one day last week and I never heard the sump pump turn on. I will be testing the sump pumps soon to verify their operation. Everything will be inspected with a fine tooth comb in October, our warranty period ends in November.This is also the same time the setteling cracks in the drywall are to be repaired by the builder.

I will post some before, during and after pictures of the lawn work.

cross1933
07-26-2007, 02:23 PM
I decided to get a soil sample to send in for testing. My first spot for a sample, took 4 samples, confirmed my opinion of a sandy soil. I inserted the small shovel six inches into the soil and pulled out the soil sample. The sample showed 1" of soil and then 5 inches of a sand. I next took a sample of the top soil that I brought in for comparison purposes. I placed the two samples, in plastic bags, on my island and asked my daughter( 9 years old ) which one is from the builder. My daughter took about 2 seconds to point to the correct one.
I should have the results by the beginning of next week, I will post the comparison results.

Are there any free landscaping software packages, I want to make a drawing of my backyard with the berms in place?

cross1933
07-30-2007, 10:59 AM
Options to remove old grass,suggestions please. I am hesitant to use chemicals for I have two small children and a dog, not to mention there is some level of wind most days.The are to be worked on is approx. 108'X50'.

1. Spray roundup, mow and bag, roto till soil

2. Harley rake, roto till soil

leejp
07-30-2007, 12:48 PM
Options to remove old grass,suggestions please. I am hesitant to use chemicals for I have two small children and a dog, not to mention there is some level of wind most days.The are to be worked on is approx. 108'X50'.

1. Spray roundup, mow and bag, roto till soil

2. Harley rake, roto till soil

Roundup... Just keep the kids off for a day or two. I usually send the kids/wife off to visit the in-laws whenever I apply a large amount chemicals. I also wear a respirator... especially with insecticide.

There's nothing worse than having uneven color/texture on your brand new lawn because the old grass is still alive.

KCLandscape
07-30-2007, 12:50 PM
Do roundup early in the morning and let it dry. Won't hurt anything. Wait for death.

Go to the rental store and see if you can get a dingo with a bucket and rotodarrion attachment. This attachment will till,pulverize, level and bury all rocks/debris 6-8 inches below soil level. If you have sandy loam it should be a breeze. I do it with hard clay here in KC.

Do your grading.

Find some good local compost, ask them if you can see their analysis. If not find someone who will.

Get a good quality 3-way fescue blend. Put down 10-12 lbs per 1000. Put down starter fert. Water 3X a day for 3 weeks. Enjoy beverage of choice.

I have done the exact steps at least 200 times, including my own lawn and have never had any problems, except when someone doesn't water enough

I hope this helps

cross1933
07-30-2007, 01:07 PM
Roundup... Just keep the kids off for a day or two. I usually send the kids/wife off to visit the in-laws whenever I apply a large amount chemicals. I also wear a respirator... especially with insecticide.

There's nothing worse than having uneven color/texture on your brand new lawn because the old grass is still alive.

Just remembered all the other children that like to visit, I will have to put up signs and probably mention it to their parents to take a break for a couple of days.

Would a pump sprayer work better that the sprayer that comes attached to the roundup bottle?

leejp
07-30-2007, 01:15 PM
Would a pump sprayer work better that the sprayer that comes attached to the roundup bottle?

Absolutely... Just make sure it's washed throughly before putting anything else into it. I would pick up a backpack unit for a job this big and they're not a bad item to have around for other applications (Insecticide, weed control...). Do a search on this site. A LOT of discussion on sprayers. Presently, I am eyeing this unit:

http://www.stihl.us/graphics/blowers/SG20.jpg

cross1933
07-30-2007, 01:15 PM
Do roundup early in the morning and let it dry. Won't hurt anything. Wait for death.

Go to the rental store and see if you can get a dingo with a bucket and rotodarrion attachment. This attachment will till,pulverize, level and bury all rocks/debris 6-8 inches below soil level. If you have sandy loam it should be a breeze. I do it with hard clay here in KC.

Do your grading.

Find some good local compost, ask them if you can see their analysis. If not find someone who will.

Get a good quality 3-way fescue blend. Put down 10-12 lbs per 1000. Put down starter fert. Water 3X a day for 3 weeks. Enjoy beverage of choice.

I have done the exact steps at least 200 times, including my own lawn and have never had any problems, except when someone doesn't water enough

I hope this helps

Equipment that I have at my disposal,

John Deere 755,
Attachments:
Roto Tiller
Mower Deck

Renting
Gill rake
Roller

I have three grass seeds that I am growing a pots at the moment.

For dirt I will probably go with the black top soil form 844Dirt.com. I purchased some from them earlier this year and the home depot grass did well
in that soil. I did take a sample of my existing dirt and the new dirt and sent off for testing, I should have the results this week.

Who makes a good starter fertilizer?

cross1933
07-30-2007, 01:19 PM
Absolutely... Just make sure it's washed throughly before putting anything else into it. I would pick up a backpack unit for a job this big and they're not a bad item to have around for other applications (Insecticide, weed control...). Do a search on this site. A LOT of discussion on sprayers. Presently, I am eyeing this unit:

http://www.stihl.us/graphics/blowers/SG20.jpg

I will start looking into a sprayer, I hope to spray the third week of August. That leaves me the 4th week of August to go back over any missed areas.

I was reading the roundup site about the spray that foams to show which area has been covered. Is this a overrated option and is a special sprayer required to spray this?

cross1933
07-30-2007, 01:43 PM
Equipment that I have at my disposal,

John Deere 755,
Attachments:
Roto Tiller
Mower Deck

Renting
Gill rake
Roller

I have three grass seeds that I am growing a pots at the moment.

For dirt I will probably go with the black top soil form 844Dirt.com. I purchased some from them earlier this year and the home depot grass did well
in that soil. I did take a sample of my existing dirt and the new dirt and sent off for testing, I should have the results this week.



Who makes a good starter fertilizer?

Left out the bucket for the John Deere 755.

cross1933
07-31-2007, 11:03 AM
Has anyone used the walk behind harley rake, a local rental place has one?

cross1933
08-01-2007, 05:05 PM
The city engineer has given me his approval. Overall he agreed with my drawing with a slight modification in the placement of the large berm, no issue with me.The engineer did not request a final inspection but I gave him the option ( I told him I would call when I am almost done).:cool2:

HayBay
08-03-2007, 12:55 AM
Wow,

I think you did pretty good with the first round of seeding from those pictures. Keep in mind no seeding when its too hot.

I would keep up with watering so you don't lose any more of the new seedlings and then reseed in Mid August to September. Forget about the rocks they arent that big of a deal and if you think they are you should hand pick them or rake them out. Possibly a late weed control application but better to wait till the spring. To get rid of the other grasses in your lawn( looks like Tall fescue), you will have to reseed spring and fall for the next 1-2 years. 2-3lb/1000.

Pick a certified grass seed and you will not get any weed seed or unwanted grass types with it.

If you apply any dirt or manure at all you will increase the amount of weeds for sure. Most Dirt harbours tons of weed seeds.

Using roundup is extra work and you are starting from square 1. I would take advantage of the existing grass to allow the new grass seed to be sheltered from the heat/cold and create shade for it.

You should rent a power rake when you reseed. Set the depth to about 1/4 to half an inch deep. Spread the seed, spread some starter fertilizer and then power rake over it. Use a hand rake to touch spots up. Then don't give up on the watering for a month or so.

cross1933
08-06-2007, 09:23 AM
Wow,

I think you did pretty good with the first round of seeding from those pictures. Keep in mind no seeding when its too hot.

I would keep up with watering so you don't lose any more of the new seedlings and then reseed in Mid August to September. Forget about the rocks they arent that big of a deal and if you think they are you should hand pick them or rake them out. Possibly a late weed control application but better to wait till the spring. To get rid of the other grasses in your lawn( looks like Tall fescue), you will have to reseed spring and fall for the next 1-2 years. 2-3lb/1000.

Pick a certified grass seed and you will not get any weed seed or unwanted grass types with it.

If you apply any dirt or manure at all you will increase the amount of weeds for sure. Most Dirt harbours tons of weed seeds.

Using roundup is extra work and you are starting from square 1. I would take advantage of the existing grass to allow the new grass seed to be sheltered from the heat/cold and create shade for it.

You should rent a power rake when you reseed. Set the depth to about 1/4 to half an inch deep. Spread the seed, spread some starter fertilizer and then power rake over it. Use a hand rake to touch spots up. Then don't give up on the watering for a month or so.


I was surprised with my first attempts to grow grass. One thing to remember this is in soil that I brought in.

The rocks cover about 50% of the soil area and range from medium to small sizes. The ideal of digging out these rocks is not a job that could be accomplished in my lifetime. I spent days with a screwdriver digging rocks when I was younger at my parents new home, that was not bad.

Roundup will be more work, but the results will be worth the work. This is a two fold issue for me, the grass(weeds) and the slope of the yard.

Thanks for the tips

cross1933
09-01-2007, 11:21 PM
I finished the seeding and starter fertilizer this evening. I will be setting up my sprinklers in the morning to start the watering. I rented a gill rake to do the grading, that was money well spent.:)

cross1933
09-06-2007, 05:54 PM
The first grass started coming up thru the ground today.:)