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landscaper9929
07-26-2007, 06:12 PM
Got 4 21" 2cycles and all have problems. Need some help. Two are 4 yrs old and two are 7yrs old.

problems by mower

mower 1 fly wheel is catching on something inside, I can turn it freely using the blade, it will turn for a while but then it catches whatever us stopping it. I can force it past it but if it is running it stops like it was bogged down. Looking in at the piston through the carb I noticed two good size nicks on the piston. This is one of my new mowers, The mulching baffles are still intact, that's how new it is.

mower 2 swapped a trans from another unit, but only left well turns, right does nothing. Also at full throttle the RMS are going crazy. I can throttle it down and it will idle but at full throttle it sounds like it is about to take off (in the air I mean). This is one of the older mowers.

mower 3 broke a belt few weeks back, in the process of removing the blade and cover I broke the pulley. Mower sat for about a month. Finally got around to fixing it today. swapped a pulley (cannibalized I should say). Once I got it all back together it started fine, was burning some white smoke, figure it was some oil since it was on it's side most of the morning. Ran it awhile, ran o.k. but not great RMS seemed a little low but not bad finally quite smoking. Figured I'd adjust the throttle cable, but before I could it stopped running while I was still mowing. Also started smoking again. I parked it and let it sit. Went back to it about an hour later still would crank.

Mower 4 on of the newer ones, sits in pieces been parted out, also doesn't run, can't remember why.


I'm about to go crazy. Everything is going wrong. Nothing is working, scag, 4 toro's, 2 walkers. But that is another post, stay tuned.

Edgewater
07-26-2007, 06:32 PM
1) No idea on the flywheel
2) RPS running high or hunting is often the governor (internal) that is worn out on high hour machines. I usually change the crank bearings and seals while they are apart.
3) The wheel drive is probably a worn drive gear on the shaft or the gear on the inner half of the wheel. These wear out when the bearings in the rear quadrants go and let the wheel assembly sit out of square to the shaft. I have tried the cheap way, but the best fix is to replace all the parts on the side in question (inner wheel half, rear quadrant, drive gear, key, key spring) If you only change the gears, they will go again due to bad bearings.

If the parts I mentioned above are all good, you may have just put the drive gear on the shaft backward and the key way will not grab.

Hop that helps.

Breezmister
07-26-2007, 07:03 PM
Got 4 21" 2cycles and all have problems. Need some help. Two are 4 yrs old and two are 7yrs old.

mower 1 fly wheel is catching on something inside, I can turn it freely using the blade, it will turn for a while but then it catches whatever us stopping it. I can force it past it but if it is running it stops like it was bogged down. Looking in at the piston through the carb I noticed two good size nicks on the piston. This is one of my new mowers, The mulching baffles are still intact, that's how new it is.

From what you are saying about # 1 I would guess that either something
got sucked on pass the air filter or you have a broken ring. I would pull the cylinder off and see if there is something in there. More then likly you will have to replace the piston, rings and cylinder anyway. On some rare occasions I've seen part of a casting break off, that might be covered under the warranty

landscaper9929
07-26-2007, 07:03 PM
1) No idea on the flywheel
2) RPS running high or hunting is often the governor (internal) that is worn out on high hour machines. I usually change the crank bearings and seals while they are apart.
3) The wheel drive is probably a worn drive gear on the shaft or the gear on the inner half of the wheel. These wear out when the bearings in the rear quadrants go and let the wheel assembly sit out of square to the shaft. I have tried the cheap way, but the best fix is to replace all the parts on the side in question (inner wheel half, rear quadrant, drive gear, key, key spring) If you only change the gears, they will go again due to bad bearings.

If the parts I mentioned above are all good, you may have just put the drive gear on the shaft backward and the key way will not grab.

Hop that helps.



You are probably right about the Governor, I will try what you suggested.

As for the trans problem, makes sense about being out of square, the wheels lean in, at least they do on one of my mower can't remember which one. As for the repairs,by the inner half of the wheel do you mean the plastic part or the actual wheel. As for the rest of the parts they seem fine but not sure. What should I look for to tell if they are bad? I tried changing the gear drive around but I have lost track of what I have changed. Can I tell by looking at them which way they should go. Also I have to gear drives that came off an older mower that look different than the others. The teeth around one edge are taller than the rest of the gear. Is this just an old style?

lawnboy dan
07-27-2007, 08:35 AM
check the throttle shaft on the carb for wear. this can allow a over lean running condition and cause engine over speeding.