View Full Version : 36" Scag Mower
08-06-2007, 05:44 PM
I have had a 36" belt driven Scag mower for about four years now and I am just now starting to have problems. When I went to sharpen my blades I noticed the belt has a crack in it, so I bought a new belt, I have not put it on yet. The mower is bucking in first and second gear but runs great in third gear, will the new belt resolve the bucking problem??
Thanks for any help with this issue!!
08-07-2007, 09:49 PM
I am assuming the cracked belt is your deck belt, which runs from your lower engine pulley to the deck. This belt will not effect drive, but you can check the trans belt that runs from the upper pulley on your engine to the trans pulley and is tensioned with an idler. Make sure your idler is not locking up and that your belt is not cracked or has chunks missing, but your issue would more then likely happen in all gears not just 2nd and 3rd.
Do you run a sulky or a seat?
08-08-2007, 06:53 AM
I do not run a sulky or seat, and it bucks or skips in 1st & 2nd gear and runs fine in 3rd gear so far. You are correct in that the belt that I saw cracked was the deck belt. Is it a big deal to get to the trans pulley?? I have the manual showing that belt and the idler that you mentioned, is it very involved getting to that belt and fixing it or the idler?? If the belt is cracked or missing chunks would it be safe to say that is the problem??
Thanks for the help once again!!
08-08-2007, 05:04 PM
I had a similar problem with my 36 scag. The problem was wear on the transmission keys. I was confused at first because my problem only occurred in 2 nd gear but after replacing the transmission keys. the problem was solved. Most of the time wear on the keys is from either pulling a sulky or parking in gear with no tie downs. Hope that helps.
08-08-2007, 05:06 PM
No it is not a hard belt to replace, since you will be replacing the deck belt it will be a good time to replace this belt also since the deck belt will have to be moved to remove the trans belt. The idler pulley is usually held on with a castle bolt that has a 9/16 lock nut holding it in place you can loosen this nut and slide the idler over and remove the trans belt, then reroute on the new belt. I usually slide the idler back against the belt as tight as I can buy hand and tighten that 9/16 lock nut just snug. Then with a large screw driver or pry bar you will have to put extra tension on the belt(idler) so as not to slip when mower is on inclines(an extra set of hands are good for this part) then tighten the nut.
To answer your question on if the belt could be your problem I say it could but I would think your issue would happen in all the gears. I tend to lean more towards the shift keys and 2nd and 3rd gears having wear. If you always run in these gears and shift on the fly or leave it in these gears in the trailer and don't lock the mower down then the constant rocking and use on them will lead to your issue.
08-08-2007, 07:50 PM
I tend to lean more towards the shift keys and 2nd and 3rd gears having wear.
I would also say if the keys are worn the mating surface inside the gears are most likely worn too.
08-09-2007, 07:44 AM
I think we have it narrowed down to the transmission keys or shift keys - I usually run in 2nd or 3rd gear and I do shift on the fly quiet often between these two gears - I tie down the mower on the trailer but never use the hand brakes (should I do that??) - and I have noticed that even after tieing it down if there is any slack in the rope it will release on its own and slip an inch or two backwards on the trailer several times until I retie it tight again!!
So if it is the keys is that something I should try to fix on my own?? and also the mating gears??
Thanks for the help!!
08-09-2007, 05:20 PM
I discourage tearing down the trans unless you are mechanically inclined. May be cheaper, faster and easier for you just to order and replace with new.
Try this link http://www.j-thomas.com/ there is an identification plate on the trans usually will start with 700 *** this is the best way to get the correct trans for your application.
08-12-2007, 08:43 AM
Hello MowerMedic77 & WhitakerServices:
I am going to buy a new Peerless Transmission for the 36" Scag Advantage & change the belts at the same time - is the transmission a big job taking it out and putting the new one in?? Any hints or suggestions
would very much be appreciated!!
08-12-2007, 11:15 AM
Removing and replacing is not overly a hard job, just take your time and keep track of were items came off and how they will need to go back on.
1. Jack the rear of the mower up to a good level to work comfortably at(use stands).
2. Remove the rear belt guards and tension springs from the side drives followed by the belts.
3. Remove the trans belt and at this time I usually remove the set screws and sometimes the snap ring holding the trans pulley onto the trans thous exposing the bolts that hold the trans to the frame(do not take out yet).
4. The side drive pulleys come out as assembly don't try and take off the pulleys unless you are replacing. You will see that they are held on the frame with two 1/4 bolts and lock nuts, remove these and pull the shaft and bearing and pulley as a unit.
5. Remove the splined couplers from the trans and also undo the shift lever at the top of the trans and your electrical connection for the neutral safety switch.
6. Now go back under the rear frame and undo the four bolts that hold on your trans (may need to remove the woodruff key from the trans input shaft)
and your done :cool2:
7. Well as far as removal :laugh:
8. Then I just reverse this process starting with re bolting back the trans.
Good luck I hope this helps :)
P.S. If you have a digital cam take some pics of each of the steps that way you will have a quick reference to how the parts go back on.
And then post them so I will not have to type this again:laugh:
08-12-2007, 02:56 PM
I too need to replace my transmission 700-022. Any idea where I can get a rebuilt one?
08-20-2007, 08:07 AM
I just bought my Peerless transmission from J Thomas Company (http://j-thomas.com/. They were the least expensive of any I found on the web and my order came in about two days (free shipping). I just put in my new transmission this past weekend and it is working fine - I spent more time going to the lawnmower shop to get a .99 cent part that did not come with the new transmission - it was a Woodruff #9 Key that would not come out of the spindle on the Pulley, Transmission Drive. I have directions from another member of this site plus pictures I took as I did the job if you need them??
05-18-2008, 08:33 PM
I am back with the same problem. I bought a peerless transmission for my 36" scag mower from J. Thomas last September, followed all your steps and it worked fine until November when it started to skip a little in first gear. I thought it was the cold weather in the fall. So I winterized it and my first four cuts this spring have been awful. It was skipping in first and second gear and fine in third. Now it doesn't move in 1st or 2nd and only runs in 3rd. J. Thomas says that I have to bring it to a tucuseh-peerless dealer to have them look at it to see if it is defective?? When we put it on was there anything I had to do that would align the shifter with the transmission?? It seemed like there was only one way it would seat itself in place. I do not trailer it in gear.
Any help would be appreciated!!
05-18-2008, 10:12 PM
When we put it on was there anything I had to do that would align the shifter with the transmission?? It seemed like there was only one way it would seat itself in place. I do not trailer it in gear.
No it is a sealed unit that has no adjustment other then the shifter tension(allen screw towards top of trans case)
I usually run in 2nd or 3rd gear and I do shift on the fly quiet often between these two gears - I tie down the mower on the trailer but never use the hand brakes (should I do that??) - and I have noticed that even after tieing it down if there is any slack in the rope it will release on its own and slip an inch or two backwards on the trailer several times until I retie it tight again!!
Are you still shifting on the fly and having this tie down issue?
05-19-2008, 06:28 AM
I do shift on the fly, isn't that OK?? And I tie down the mower on my trailer but the mower is never in gear, always in neutral. Would the shifter tension cause it to skip?? I know all the belts are fine, I changed them when I put in the new transmission last fall, is there something else I am missing that is not turning the drive axle or bar that runs into the transmission?? When I put it in 1st or 2nd it doesn't rotate, when I put it in 3rd it bangs into gear but runs fine for the entire cut, which I am obviously braking alot for.
05-19-2008, 08:06 AM
I do shift on the fly, isn't that OK??
No, its much like shifting a manual car without depressing the clutch pedal. The key(s) face is(are) under load and shifting on the fly (kneeing the shifter lever while mower is moving) is going to cause premature wear because it ripps the keys across the mating surface while pushing all the weight of the mower thought the turf. In the close to 15 years I have been now fixing commercial equipment I believe they have changed the material that the keys are made from (softer) of course no one will admit to this and this is only my opinion. But for years when these units had the smaller 36 spline stripping out the spline was probably the most common failure. So they beefed it up by going to a nine spline out put shaft. Since then I have seen more lower input shaft bearing failures and more shift keys then in previous years. This may also be because all of the load that used to stripp out the 36 splines so frequently is now being transferred to the input shaft and keys.
05-19-2008, 05:37 PM
I am having issues with a Scag 48" that seem like it is the transmission keys, dealer wants $300 to fix we are thinking of just ordering new transmission and putting it in ourselves riovanna mentioned you have pictures and a guide is there anyway you can send them to me. Of if someone else has any can I please check them out. Thanks!
05-19-2008, 07:56 PM
Is a hydro scag better than a belt driven scag mower??
What shoud it cost to have a authorized Tecumseh/Peerless dealer put in a new transmission?? I already spent $225. for the new transmsiion I put in last September and it is still skipping. Maybe is was defective because it waqs working fine for awhile.
05-20-2008, 07:33 PM
So are you telling me that I have to break to a complete stop every time I change gears?? How does it disengage the clutch when you use the hand brakes?? Also, are you interested in fixing my 1st transmission??
05-20-2008, 07:55 PM
You should not shift while the trans is under load. The levers decrease the tension on the belt and therefore the trans. There is no clutch in the drive system
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