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CAPT Stream Rotar
08-08-2007, 08:06 PM
http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i1005636_Library3371.jpg


http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i1005637_Library3372.jpg

http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i1005638_Library3373.jpg

http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i1005639_Library3374.jpg

http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i1005640_Library3375.jpg

Mike Leary
08-08-2007, 08:17 PM
Melt those saddles down & take the winter off! Are those the ones with the
cork gasket? Nice unit, we've used 'um.

CAPT Stream Rotar
08-08-2007, 08:18 PM
Melt those saddles down & take the winter off! Are those the ones with the
cork gasket? Nice unit, we've used 'um.


Both them buckets are heavy as Sh!t..

are they really worth that much dough?

Mike Leary
08-08-2007, 08:26 PM
Both them buckets are heavy as Sh!t..

are they really worth that much dough?

Check the brass prices...could be worth the melt..my guys used to save all
the copper/brass & take it in every year...they did well. Now? CHA-CHING!

Wet_Boots
08-08-2007, 08:30 PM
They are worth what a plastic saddle tee is worth, so far as being useful. (and they still are)

Best thing about those, was the melting tool you heated with a torch, to burn a hole in the pipe, after you tightened down the saddle tee.

Mike Leary
08-08-2007, 09:06 PM
They are worth what a plastic saddle tee is worth, so far as being useful. (and they still are)

Best thing about those, was the melting tool you heated with a torch, to burn a hole in the pipe, after you tightened down the saddle tee.

Yep, but they were brass..& we thought that would work, oh well.

Wet_Boots
08-08-2007, 09:25 PM
Those poor saps working with PVC never got to heat up the ol' "branding iron" to make that hole. As far as I see, the fitting was fine, but the pipe could stretch, and ultimately split at the hole.

SprinklerGuy
08-09-2007, 09:49 AM
Brass and copper prices are way up.........take em to salvage yard and have a party.....

Is that an old piper puller?

DanaMac
08-09-2007, 09:52 AM
We have 5 buckets of copper, brass, backflows that will get turned in soon. I just give it to my employee, tell him to strip it down on his time, and it's a bonus. No money out of my pocket that way.

Wet_Boots
08-09-2007, 11:05 AM
You do have to separate the various classes of brass in your scrap, and remove all the non-brass material, in order to get the best price. I wouldn't wonder that an old saddle tee might not still be worth more as a usable fitting.

Mike Leary
08-09-2007, 03:45 PM
You do have to separate the various classes of brass in your scrap, and remove all the non-brass material, in order to get the best price. I wouldn't wonder that an old saddle tee might not still be worth more as a usable fitting.

As long as the cork gasket hasn't dried up, but I 'spose a gasket made of old
inner tube would work, wait a minute, do they make inner tubes anymore?

WalkGood
08-09-2007, 04:29 PM
As long as the cork gasket hasn't dried up, but I 'spose a gasket made of old
inner tube would work, wait a minute, do they make inner tubes anymore?

Whenever I find a leaky saddle tee (brass or plastic), there's a piece of "sumthin" that looks like a rubber gasket that is very brittle. Whatever it is made of, is it supposed to last very long?? Many times I see the screws are rotted away, leading to the leak.

About 2 months ago had one that might have been leaking underground for more than since last season. Head was near the curb along a commercial parking lot. Water was coming up from cracks in the asphalt, about 2 feet inward. I thought at first it was a line break under the asphalt itself. I picked out a hunk of asphalt and dug some but it didn't gush. So I dug around the head in the grass area. Touched the head while clearing dirt and it fell to the side. It seems that the way the water was shooting out of the saddle to poly connection area, it was digging out under the asphalt. The head still sprayed like a champ (up until I dug around it) and no sogginess in the turf area. Weird. Non-stainless screws (not even brass) were rotted down to nothing, not even any threads. I think it was just the hard packed rocks and hardpan "fill" that was keeping it all together.

Wet_Boots
08-09-2007, 07:53 PM
Brass screws on old saddle tees are little time bombs, since they slowly corrode away. They did wise up and switch to stainless steel a long time ago. The saddle tees I've used had rubber seals. Don't remember seeing any cork.

Ever see a brass 'saddle cross' fitting? (film at eleven)

PurpHaze
08-09-2007, 11:07 PM
Brass screws on old saddle tees are little time bombs, since they slowly corrode away. They did wise up and switch to stainless steel a long time ago.

Same with single lug QCVs. We run into some so old they have brass set screws (to keep the upper part from spinning off the base) and leather fibrous upper seals. They're replaced with stainless steel screws and neoprene-type seals.

Mike Leary
08-09-2007, 11:27 PM
Same with single lug QCVs. We run into some so old they have brass set screws (to keep the upper part from spinning off the base) and leather fibrous upper seals. They're replaced with stainless steel screws and neoprene-type seals.

Years ago, I ripped all the single lug QCs in our service area, replaced them
with dual-lug 33DLRCs...carry keys & replacements on board..sooo much
easier to winterize!

FIMCO-MEISTER
08-10-2007, 06:38 AM
WM used to use brass bolts along with some other old brass valves. Word to the wise replace with stainless steel. Had a job the other day on an old valve that had been serviced before. Someone replaced the brass bolts with cast iron bolts which corroded and we couldn't get the bonnet off. A 150.00 repair became a 700.00 repair based on this simple error.

Rainman7
08-10-2007, 06:55 AM
Once again no one answered the original question..but I'll take 'em. Just the saddles, not the modified sod cutter.

I'm supposed to be going to the cape in a few weeks, I'll pick them up.
payup

PurpHaze
08-10-2007, 07:16 AM
Years ago, I ripped all the single lug QCs in our service area, replaced them
with dual-lug 33DLRCs...carry keys & replacements on board..sooo much
easier to winterize!

We have found that the two-piece single lug QCVs have given us much less trouble over these many years. They don't tend to have their lower mechanism (basket, spring, lower seal, etc.) go bad as often and stick at an angle or weep as often, the single slot keys tend to work easier with less drag if dirt/debris are present (easier to flush out), the tops are easily replaced without turning off the water in the event they get out of round from a mower hit or some other problem and the cone shaped upper seal tends to be more reliable.

Mike Leary
08-10-2007, 09:35 AM
With the locking covers, have had problem zero, it was a matter of standardizing..we had so many different Q.C.s that winterize was a huge pain.
Now, we have one dual lug for the compressor & off we go. Oops, did I say
"winterize?"