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swstranger
08-12-2007, 11:03 AM
Last winter moles/voles did a number on parts of my lawn. Going into this winter I need to be proactive to try stop these critters this time around.

My backyard borders a pond and a lot of tall grass so maybe it's impossible to stop them.

Searching online there are a zillion so-called remedies. Last year I did apply a repellent that obviously didn't work. Suggestions?
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/swstranger/DSC02233.jpg

bug-guy
08-12-2007, 01:03 PM
liquid fence mole and vole try a lesco or big box store

p.s. wasn't that pic post before for a fert burn

Mic_bug
08-12-2007, 05:33 PM
keep the grass short for the winter

swstranger
08-12-2007, 11:43 PM
liquid fence mole and vole try a lesco or big box store

p.s. wasn't that pic post before for a fert burn

Yes had fertilizer burn, this is a few weeks later after it thankfully recovered.

Grass Man
08-13-2007, 01:07 AM
.... This is what was suggested to me: http://www.gemplers.com/pestmgmt/wildlifecontrol/mole/g77900.html

.... I have an electric fence installed around my large garden for the larger animals and it works just fine. Never did I ever think I would have a problem with MOLES but I do this year. They have torn up my cantaloupes BAD (BIG Time). Maybe this devise will help you. It's suppose to cover about a 1 and 1/3 of an acre and uses 4 “D” cell batters :(.

Wish you the best.


Last winter moles/voles did a number on parts of my lawn. Going into this winter I need to be proactive to try stop these critters this time around.

My backyard borders a pond and a lot of tall grass so maybe it's impossible to stop them.

Searching online there are a zillion so-called remedies. Last year I did apply a repellent that obviously didn't work. Suggestions?
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/swstranger/DSC02233.jpg

drelgan
08-13-2007, 08:55 AM
Better stick to traps--leave the vibrators for someone else to throw their money away.

Capemay Eagle
08-14-2007, 02:17 PM
I have been thinking about getting a cat..

Mic_bug
08-14-2007, 06:46 PM
Last winter moles/voles did a number on parts of my lawn. Going into this winter I need to be proactive to try stop these critters this time around.

My backyard borders a pond and a lot of tall grass so maybe it's impossible to stop them.

Searching online there are a zillion so-called remedies. Last year I did apply a repellent that obviously didn't work. Suggestions?
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/swstranger/DSC02233.jpg


I heard they love juciey fruit.:confused:

DCE
08-14-2007, 10:11 PM
I heard they love juciey fruit.:confused:

In essence, glueing their tiny mouths shut or clogging up their digestive tract to prevent them from intaking nourishment. I've also heard that it doesn't work. I have one of those spring loaded spiked traps that you place over an active tunnel. It's effective but they key is to locate an active tunnel.

Dreams To Designs
08-15-2007, 08:11 AM
For moles, the spring loaded traps and the poison worms called Talprid are really the only effective measures. For voles, peanut butter in mouse snap traps or mouse bait stations with one of the Bell Labs controls or something similar is the only way to get control. They both breed very heavily and can invade an area and destroy turf or plants, depending on the species. Moles will primarily eat earthworms and grubs, while voles eat plant material. Voles will eat the roots of many plants and can also girdle small trees or shrubs.

The home remedies are ineffective. The windmills, vibrators, chewing gum & glass in the tunnels. The only way to control these pests is to eliminate them. The castor oil sprays will move them away from an area, but they will take up residence somewhere else and return as soon as the castor oil become ineffective.

Kirk

SuperMag
08-15-2007, 02:47 PM
Go to the local Humane Society, adopt a cat and no more problems, inside or out! My cat kills any where from 2-3 a day, even my neighbor mentioned he's got no more mice/mole/vole problems!

Cat food- $150 bucks
Spay/Neuter- $75 bucks
Saving a life AND no more rodent issues- Priceless :cool2:

drelgan
08-20-2007, 08:03 AM
In essence, glueing their tiny mouths shut or clogging up their digestive tract to prevent them from intaking nourishment If thats the case why don't peoples mouths get glued shut and thier bowels stopped up?

Dunlaps LawnCare
04-01-2008, 05:18 PM
.... This is what was suggested to me: http://www.gemplers.com/pestmgmt/wildlifecontrol/mole/g77900.html

.... I have an electric fence installed around my large garden for the larger animals and it works just fine. Never did I ever think I would have a problem with MOLES but I do this year. They have torn up my cantaloupes BAD (BIG Time). Maybe this devise will help you. It's suppose to cover about a 1 and 1/3 of an acre and uses 4 “D” cell batters :(.

Wish you the best.

verry nice yard

driveshaft06
04-02-2008, 10:35 AM
I thought if ya kill the food supply (grubs and earthworms) they would move on???? Diazanon or triazanon ? anyone ever use these products???

meth
04-03-2008, 10:52 AM
Apparantly these things are a nightmare to get rid of - it seems that i have a mole and vole problem in the rear section of my yard - my neighbors have a much worse mole problem. I went to my local Agway store and they gave me some Castrol based product to spread on the lawn that is supposed to deter them - its not working so well and is only a temporary solution. I asked an exterminator who told me that he only recommends a good treatment of grubex but that it could take 6 months to get rid of them. Now I have 2 issues with this, one is that in 6 months the little bastard will have my lawn torn to hell and the other is everything that I have read is that its way too early to put down grubex in the NE and will not be effective until June - so is he just giving me a line to pay him? I have about 1.5 acres to treat so it will be quite expensive. I researched some products and found that Talprid should help for the moles and there is a poison for the voles that is put in a rat type box outside - not sure how effective it is but I may try it. There is also a spear type poison applicator that allows you to add the poison bate right into the mole tunnels without having to dig them up - it looks like it might be effective. I found them all on Gemplers, at this point I am desperate.

drelgan
04-03-2008, 11:43 AM
Meth--you can have the Grubex put down but I am willingly to bet, that as with another name brand product it won't kill the earthworms. From what I understand from another chemical company that sells chemical for the grubs is that the chemical causes the grub to go into an early molt (shedding its skin) and therefore dies. Thier chemical has no effect of the earthworms. So, basically, you have gotten rid of only half of the food source that moles like. Nothing wrong with getting rid of the grubs. As far as the chemicals being put down into the tunnels--I have heard of good results from people about Triplad. The other products are grain based and you have to remember that moles are insectivores--they eat living insects. Another thing you have to realize--moles are nomads--always traveling to find new food sources. This means that although you killed them now, in the future there are going to be more move into your yard. That is the reason I offer year around a year around mole service. I don't use anything but traps---I know that I have gotten the mole--not wondering if it just moved out and planning on coming back.

meth
04-03-2008, 12:11 PM
Thanks for the feedback - its strange but in my area I have called at least a half dozen exterminators and none offer a mole service that includes trapping or poisoning. They only offer a grub treatment and possibly trapping for the voles. The one product I was looking at is grain based so I see your point with that, the other was the talprid worm type.

Capemay Eagle
04-03-2008, 03:17 PM
I have used the sonic spikes for a few weeks now and I have seen no tunnels in weeks. I am going back today to get a few more for the back, if they start digging out there. I am convinced these things work..You can get them at Lowe's for like 30 bucks. I think I paid $27.00..

http://www.bizrate.com/pestcontrol/oid559332026.html

meth
04-03-2008, 03:32 PM
Thanks - I have heard from others that these didn't work - glad to hear they are working for you - I will give them a shot

ATVracer
04-03-2008, 05:39 PM
The only effective way to rid a yard of moles is to trap them or use a product like Talphrid(there are a few baits exactly like Talphrid). Noise makers, gum, castor oils or anything else are a waste of money.

I am wiling to bet these exterminators are not licensed to apply Grub-ex to lawns. Maybe the laws are different up there though.

meth
04-04-2008, 10:34 AM
I would bet your right - they never mentioned licensing and to be honest I didn't think to ask - I think I am going to apply the Bayer 24 hour grub product myself this weekend if the weather cooperates. Hopefully this will help with the moles - I will also see about getting some talprid and then I need to work on the damn voles!

Dreams To Designs
04-04-2008, 11:02 AM
The #1 food for moles are earthworms followed by grubs in season. If you attempt to get rid of the earthworms, you will cause a chain reaction of devastation. Moles only eat living animals and rarely surface. The best mole control is Talaprid. The harpoon traps do work, but only moderately, and as stated earlier, the home remedies are virtually useless.

Voles on the other hand eat plant material, especially fresh growing roots. They can destroy a hosta bed in a day. Voles are active day & night and can breed with upwards of a dozen litters in a year. The castor oil deterrents are only that. They keep the varmints away while fresh, but after time or rainfall dissipates the odor, the voles come back even stronger. Products like Vole-Bloc & Perma Till, as well as Espoma's Soil Perfector do help with creating an underground barrier, but when under siege, they will fail as well. The only effective control of voles is elimination. The can live under mulch and will thrive in uncultivated areas under leaf litter. The most effective controls with the greatest success is a two pronged approach. bait stations filled with rodenticides, fruit or plant flavors and snap traps baited with peanut butter or apple placed under containers near active vole areas. The presence of voles can be determined by many golf ball sized holes, & surface tunnels in the soil and verified with an apple spice test. Once you have a vole problem, you will always have to monitor the area. Even after successful elimination of the current infestation, a new generation will likely appear and the battle resumes. Constant monitoring can keep the situation under control, but complete eradication is very unlikely

http://extension.umd.edu/publications/PDFs/FS654.pdf

It is very important to identify the prey and take appropriate measures to combat the plant destroying varmints, as different species differ in habits.

Kirk

meth
04-04-2008, 11:21 AM
This is great information - thank you! I am ordering some Talprid today and will do the grubex treatment as well.

As for the voles - it appears they may be more difficult to manage - I haven't seen them yet but there are plenty of surface tunnels. I will get some snap traps baited with peanut butter this evening and place them near the tunnels. I will also purchase a couple of bait stations and place them as well with a rodenticide. The problem area is in a "wet zone" of the yard which is an easement where the rain water runs off - I would guess there are 3-4 dozen visible surface tunnels

Mic_bug
04-04-2008, 08:48 PM
This is great information - thank you! I am ordering some Talprid today and will do the grubex treatment as well.

As for the voles - it appears they may be more difficult to manage - I haven't seen them yet but there are plenty of surface tunnels. I will get some snap traps baited with peanut butter this evening and place them near the tunnels. I will also purchase a couple of bait stations and place them as well with a rodenticide. The problem area is in a "wet zone" of the yard which is an easement where the rain water runs off - I would guess there are 3-4 dozen visible surface tunnels

is this talprid to be better than juicey fruit or peanut butter

And how much does it cost??

ATVracer
04-04-2008, 11:17 PM
is this talprid to be better than juicey fruit or peanut butter

And how much does it cost??

Talphrid costs me $50 for a box of 20 worms, normally only use 2-3 worms per each active tunnel but it all depends on the length of the active tunnels. I have seen it on the internet priced much higher but unsure of the lowest price you can find. The more you buy the cheaper it is.