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rgn2001
08-19-2007, 06:48 PM
I have a lot of thatch and I was told by someone in the landscaping business that I will have less thatch if I cut my grass lower in the fall, like with one of my last couple of mowings. Is there any truth to this?

Thanks

lawnprosteveo
08-19-2007, 06:56 PM
Ive always heard it was best to leave it tall. Down here anyway, we leave the bermuda tall and then scalp it at the first of the year.

LCPullman
08-19-2007, 07:18 PM
For Northern grasses that you cut at 3 or 4 inches, it is good to cut lower for your final mowing of the year. Reason being that tall grass will fold over during the winter. This usually results in areas of folded over dry grass that need to be raked out so that new grass come up in the spring. It can also contribute to mold, etc.
I am not sure how exactly this would affect true thatch (the layer of roots and grass stems between what you see and the dirt). A common misconception is that the dry grass in a lawn is thatch. This is not the case.
Aerating is a very good way to keep thatch down. If you have a couple of inches of thatch, you can use a power rake to take it out early spring.

rodfather
08-20-2007, 06:57 AM
For Northern grasses that you cut at 3 or 4 inches, it is good to cut lower for your final mowing of the year. Reason being that tall grass will fold over during the winter. This usually results in areas of folded over dry grass that need to be raked out so that new grass come up in the spring. It can also contribute to mold, etc.
I am not sure how exactly this would affect true thatch (the layer of roots and grass stems between what you see and the dirt). A common misconception is that the dry grass in a lawn is thatch. This is not the case.
Aerating is a very good way to keep thatch down. If you have a couple of inches of thatch, you can use a power rake to take it out early spring.

all valid points...we mow lower in the Fall to make leaf clean-up easier.

MOW ED
08-21-2007, 08:56 AM
True thatch is remedied by a very destructive practice of using a vertical mower with cutting knives that basically destroy the thatch. True thatch can be thought of and visualized as having some grass growing thru a thick wool blanket (by thick I mean a tight weave of over 1/2") Can you see the soil surface? True thatch can also be thought of as digging your fingers into thick matted material and not being able to pull anything up. The soil surface is smothered by a tangled thick mess of stolons, twigs and organic material.
Many people believe a spring tine mechanism will properly dethatch a lawn and that is not true. The spring tines in the typical WB Bluebird machine will slap the surface but do little to break up true thatch.
I am not able to see your lawn but if it is truly thatched then you have major problems and need a renovation. If you have a lawn that needs to be fluffed up then the Bluebird or Ryan or JRCO will work for you and will make your lawn look visually attractive again. It is not saying that these machines waste your time as it does remove debris from the lawn and helps the lawn in some respects. It is like giving the lawn a good raking.
Sorry for the long post and I am not trying to come off as mr know it all but there really is a difference between true thatch and what many call thatch. I am hoping you don't have a thatch problem.

Sammy
08-21-2007, 11:37 AM
I have a lot of thatch and I was told by someone in the landscaping business that I will have less thatch if I cut my grass lower in the fall, like with one of my last couple of mowings. Is there any truth to this?

Thanks

Nope................ :laugh:

mdlwn1
08-21-2007, 01:08 PM
Just don't expect any green for 4 months.................

mdlwn1
08-21-2007, 01:09 PM
If you lower the mower height to 1/4 inch...you will have no thatch at all....LOL

Stillwater
08-22-2007, 04:13 AM
I have a lot of thatch and I was told by someone in the landscaping business that I will have less thatch if I cut my grass lower in the fall, like with one of my last couple of mowings. Is there any truth to this?

Thanks

your in NY. yes cut it short but it will do nothing for the Thatch issue. it will reduce the threat of snow mold and other crap. power rake or dethach, but also core aerate you can also topdress with a super high quality compost

Stillwater
08-22-2007, 04:14 AM
If you lower the mower height to 1/4 inch...you will have no thatch at all....LOL

WHAT? this is total BS

mdlwn1
08-22-2007, 08:37 AM
No Kidding.......................

Stillwater
08-22-2007, 11:18 AM
No Kidding.......................

Ya, sorry I was a little slow on the uptake, it went right over my head

Exact Rototilling
10-25-2007, 11:35 PM
So what is the ideal grass height for the last cut in the fall? 2.5" 2.25" or "3.0"? :confused:

For example one year I cut my own grass shorter than normal probably just below the 2" mark because I was tired of the "so called" laid over look year after year and this was an area where my dogs pooped so I wanted cleanup to be easier. Well poop clean up was easier all right however the grass in that area was painfully thin and sparse for years after the scalp job. In fact it never bounced back. I'm glad I limited the scalp job to the dog poop area only. The fate of my lush green lawn was far worse after it became a rental.

DuallyVette
10-25-2007, 11:45 PM
I could explain it to you guys......but then I'd have to kill ya.:)

LwnmwrMan22
10-26-2007, 01:01 AM
I've just picked up a new customer from Tru-Green. I explained to them that if they were going to always mow their yard as short as it was then, that I was not interested in doing the applications on the property. They said they ususally have it between 3-4" tall, but Chem-Lawn said to mow it short to prevent snow mold.

We just had a news story here that another large landscape supply's expert said to mow the grass shorter (all cool season grasses here).

I deal personally with 2 guys with degrees in turf grass. They both say to leave it at the same height.

I personally leave it at the same height. I feel that Tru-Green and the other landscape supply place is going to say things that are going to allow them the highest chance to sell more product, rather than practice IPM. IPM doesn't pay the bills, if you know what I mean.

fergman
10-26-2007, 01:06 AM
all valid points...we mow lower in the Fall to make leaf clean-up easier.

YEAH MAN!!!:drinkup:

Lawnut101
10-26-2007, 01:09 AM
I mow a few of my lawns shorter during the end of the season. It looks better, and it's easier to bag up the leaves. But I have heard that you're not supposed to. So, I guess I should do some research.

Marcos
10-26-2007, 01:15 AM
Attack thatch in bluegrass turf by aggressive deep aeration, twice annually. And in addition to the valid reasons given prior for lowering the blade at the end of the season is the following reason many folks don't think about: If you 'stunt' the top (with that late low mowing), the turf 'energy' is then defaulted into the root system. And this direction of energy is only reinforced when frosts and mild freezes begin to occur. So, you're actually helping to 'steer' the roots into winter regeneration activity (rhizome production if it's bluegrass / deep growth if it's fescue), with your mower blades! :waving: