View Full Version : Help with some drain work .
08-22-2007, 11:38 PM
Well tomorrow is day to in the dirt game and i have to put in a drain 100 feet long with two catch basins one on each end of the yard .I picked up the pipes today , i was surprised when the pipes where so stiff .I have to run it around some boulders and trees .I was hopping i could bend it a bit to go around some obstacles but the double wall pipe seems real stiff , what about running one piece of single wall pipe so it flexes around the rocks .Can single wall pipe be joined to double wall pipe ?. Can i miter the pipe so it flex's around some obstacles. Can i move a few rocks the size of a garbage can with my mini EX ? Could i dig a hole next to the rock and dump it in? What about renting a hammer for the EX to break the rock up ?There are old steps 3'x 6 ' 3 foot thick solid concreet rite in the footing I mite need a hammer to break it up. .I mite have the guys come with a large back ho to help. What do you guys think.? John WBH
08-22-2007, 11:43 PM
Miter the pipe? Have you ever installed PVC before? This isn't rocket science, dig the trench, throw the pipe in the ground and you're money. If you think about it too much you'll be wasting time and time = money. Sounds like you have a lot of learning left to do, but there's no better way to learn than by doing. I started on iron when I was 14 running junk Bobcats, had not a clue what I was doing most of the time, but I enjoyed it and I'd like to think I'm a pretty decent operator now only 7 years later. Just go with the flow, everything will be alright.:waving:
Oh yeah, don't call your buddy with a backhoe. I read your other thread about buying the Vio, congrats, so make the most of your ownership. There's nothing about this job your machine can't handle. Run what ya brung and go to it.
I am not sure what pipe you got for a drain that was double walled? Here is a few things to think about.
Besure you have "fall" in your pipe in whatever direction you need the water to flow. typically it is .25" per foot although you can get by with half of that in a pinch. Especially drain line.
Dig the trench, make it smooth and as stated properly graded. You can flex the pipe somewhat if you have it in 20' sticks. You will notice that the pipe has a natural bend to it. Ideally that should be layed on the side as not to get a belly in the pipe. Once the entire pipe is connected, it should be shaded. That means fill the sides around the PVC or ABS with soft material and under it if needed. Recheck the pipe to be sure you have properly laid the pipe that you still have fall with no bellys then drop clean material over the pipe. Backfill, compact as needed.
These notes also apply to sewer line.
I have never heard of mitering ABS. You could use different angles to move around things if needed. Remember that each bend reduces flow. A 90 reduces flow by 50%. Try not to put those in if you can avoid it, sometimes you have to.
Drain line is more forgiving of a mistake than sewer so drain line is good to get your feet wet with.
It is hard to write everything that may come into play.
Remember to get a locate on utilities
I am sure I forgot some things but someone else can pickup what I may have forgotten.
08-23-2007, 12:39 AM
Do you know the name of the pipe.I use Hancor ,which is also now ADS,since they bought Hancor out.
The double wall pipe will give a little,not much.Leave it out in the sun on a 90 plus degree day and it will curve,but becareful it will break if curved to much.
As far as using single wall pipe for around the rock and so for,make sure it is non perf(pipe that doesn't have holes or slots in it) to let the water in the pipe if your just using it as drain pipe.
If you was using it to lower the water table then use (perfrated),which your not.
They make interal and external connecter,so if you have some of them you could connect the double wall pipe and the single wall togather using them.
They have y's,t's,reducer,you name it,all kinds of fitting,especially the smaller pipe(3" to 8") like i install.I did that all day today,putting in field drainage tile(perf) lines.
I installed over 2000 ft. today plus having to stop and locate waterline i had to cross with the trencher,that the water company mistaked.
08-23-2007, 12:47 AM
Ive layed out all types of work and built houndreds of buildings but the last time i sat in the oporators seat was 25 years ago and the dozer and ho we had then was from the 60s , back then i dont think we had this type of pipe ! Hay SCAG NO I never put in anty 12" pvc in personaly but ive seen it done plenty of times .The miter thing ?ok i must of lost my mind . Ive mitered trim work, pavers ,brick ,stone ,steel I beams why not pipe . Im on a learning curve . the 35 looks kewl stuffed in the 12' dump box but its plenty scarry driveing in and out for the first time. My guys drove the rental units so i never realy pulled in and out of the dump box myself. Im haveing lots of fun working with my hands again . JohnWBH
RockSet N' Grade
08-23-2007, 10:05 AM
If you have pipe that is gasketed and slides together be sure not to forget to lube the rubber gasket, if you don't the gasket will move and twist and you will not have a good seal. ( Don't ask how I know this one, but trust me.......lube is REAL cheap to use the first time and doing it right).
08-23-2007, 02:04 PM
Just for the record, pipe can be mitered but it is typically only done if a standard fitting does not get the desired angle or offset and it normally is done only on a butt weld joint. Socket/Slip type connections would not allow a proper fit-up with a miter without compromising the rating of the piping system.
As KSSS pointed out 45 and 90 degree elbows will add flow resistance/pressure drop so if you need to add many of these you may want to increase the fall slightly to compensate. (I realize we're only talking a gravity drain line here).:)
08-23-2007, 05:44 PM
We have installed a bunch of perf. and non perf. over the years. All I can tell you is try to get it to bend the least amount that you can. As others have stated if you try to put joints in it that greatly reduces the waterflow and any type of dirt or so that may get in the pipe at times will set in those corners and eventually plug it. We try to work with the natural bend of the pipe from factory as much as we can. I know at times that is easier said than done. Like others said leaving it in the sun helps out. I assume you want the double walled because it is smooth inside? Not so sure that you had to have that for your application at all but I have never made a catch basin. i would have probably used single walled non perf. It is allot easier to work with.
08-23-2007, 07:09 PM
pay somebody else to do it...if you call ADS pipe "double walled pipe" and you thought it could bend, you are in for a world of hurt when you actually go to install it....not to mention if it has to be inspected
also where are you running the water from these catch basins?...are you reading a plan or did you just plan to run the pipe out to grade? and you'de better have those holes perfect because when they come to set the inlet boxes those guys dont like to wait around and i doubt your mini-trackhoe can life a 2'x4' inlet box....are you also taking into acount for extensions?...if you are running a pipe from one to the other (unless you are runing the pipe downhill) your second box will be 25 inches lower then your start inlet so you will need a 2 foot riser with a layer of bricks before you set your grate and top.
08-23-2007, 08:39 PM
they make things called elbows in 22, 45 and 90 degree angles..........use a transit, get your drop and go with it........with the smooth pvc you can get flow with only 1/2% slope if you must
08-27-2007, 10:56 PM
My new drain worked great ! I made good money doing it and every body loves what i did with the yard. All the neighbors want me to fix there yards . Thanks for the help guys
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