Tecumseh 13hp Engine **please Help

[sarah]

Hello~~
I hope someone can help..This Murray riding mower is backfiring Really , really,loud..its a 13HP OHV130 engine(Tecumseh)..I cannot find TDC..some say its where the 2 magnets on flywheel line up with Coil housing..BUt MY TDC is 6 :dizzy: inches away from that(clockwise)..is it possible my that the flywheel key broke?? I adjusted valves..maybe one burnt..I smell something burning from exhaust..smells like burning brakes..
I have :
(1) backfiring..got better after valves adjusted, but do not know if I had correct TDC
(2) loss of power
(3) engine surges,then cuts out
(4) replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, cleaned fuel tank out..still running like crap..all black dry soot in exhaust hole and old plug was covered with black, dry soot..
ANY IDEAS/ Suggestions: PLEASE HELP..burnt valve, flywheel, seat switch?????:dizzy:

[Restrorob]

First, Welcome to LawnSite.....


Since your not sure you were at TDC compression stroke when you adjusted the valves this is where you need to start;

With the plug wire off grab the flywheel and rotate it clockwise until you feel it get harder, This is the beginning of compression stroke. Stop turning at this point and remove the spark plug and insert a small screw driver into the plug hole.

Slowly continue to rotate the flywheel clockwise until you feel the piston touch the screw driver and start pushing it out of the plug hole. From this point move the flywheel back and forth while holding the screw driver against the piston until the screw driver is sticking out the most.

This will be TDC compression stroke and the position to check/adjust valves so re-check your adjustments, If you find the valves off correct them then try test running the engine again.

If the flywheel key was sheared and the flywheel was 6" off it wouldn't run at all, Since Tecumseh does use off-set keys on some engines the only real way to check one is remove the flywheel and LOOK at it.

Sooty black plugs could be caused by sheared key/valves out of adjustment or rich running carb/choke not opening ALL the way.

Maybe this little bit of info will help.....

Good Luck

[Bill Kapaun]

You can find a service manual at the link-
http://www.cpdonline.com/695244a.pdf

[sarah]

Hi you replied to my riding tractor question.,.many thanks..its a 13hp Tecumseh engine, model40541x99C
OHV130-206810D
My MAIN question is IS DC on this engine suppose to be where the 2 magnets on FLYWHEEL line up with the coil???
As I said, it appears my TDC is at 6 oclock verses at 3 oclock if looking at flywheel..it runs and STARTS after I adjusted the valves, but stalls out after about 30 sec to a minute..backfires a bit, not as bad after adjusting valves..don't know if I am on TDC
(2) CAN this tractor still runs if I sheared the flywheel key and it being off that much?
(3)I smell something burning coming out of exhaust manifold..it seems JUST like brakes burning..could my engine head gasket be cracked or broken???
(4) Put in new plug, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned gas tank
(plug still getting foaled with carbon..black, dry soot
(5)Hope u can answer all above!!! THANKS

[Bill Kapaun]

"don't know if I am on TDC"
Rob told you how to check that-

"(2) CAN this tractor still runs if I sheared the flywheel key and it being off that much?"
That's 90 degrees off. Unlikely it would run.

"(3)I smell something burning coming out of exhaust manifold..it seems JUST like brakes burning..could my engine head gasket be cracked or broken???
(4) Put in new plug, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned gas tank
(plug still getting foaled with carbon..black, dry soot"

That tends to indicate the engine is running either-
Very rich
and/or
Very poorly.

Start by checking TDC and then valve adjustment as per Rob.
Hint- You will have MAX valve clearance at TDC. Try rotating the engine in small increments just before AND after TDC and see if the valve clearance is MORE than what you set it at any position. It shouldn't be.

You may have a carb that is running excessively rich, allowing unburned fuel vapors into the muffler and then "exploding".
Poor/intermittent ignition could do the same. (bad coil?)
A bad head gasket would more likely appear to be an oily, black deposit on the plug.

[sarah]

Hey Thanks for emailing me
I am going nuts here with this thing..I mean on a car, I can see the marks for TDC..I only see ONE MARk on this Murray;) ..its on the Flywheel housing with a white line..not sure what it is suppose to line up with..some small mowr repair guys SWEAr that TDC is where the 2 magnets on flywheel line up with coil..
All I know is I am not too good at finding TDC .I will try what you say to do..
would a faulty safety switch cause it to backfire, too? Just wondering..I haven't checked that.
The carb seems fine..I cleaned it all out..same problem..maybe it is a bad coil..any way to check COIL before I buy another??
And do u think flywheel key could be broke..mower starts..runs uneven, then bacfires and stalls
OKAY..wish you were here to fix this tractor, guys!!

[sarah]

Hey Thanks for emailing me
I am going nuts here with this thing..I mean on a car, I can see the marks for TDC..I only see ONE MARk on this Murray;) ..its on the Flywheel housing with a white line..not sure what it is suppose to line up with..some small mower repair guys SWEAR that TDC is where the 2 magnets on flywheel line up with coil..
All I know is I am not too good at finding TDC .I will try what you say to do..
would a faulty safety switch cause it to backfire, too? Just wondering..I haven't checked that.
The carb seems fine..I cleaned it all out..same problem..maybe it is a bad coil..any way to check COIL before I buy another??
And do u think flywheel key could be broke..mower starts..runs uneven, then backfires and stalls
OKAY..wish you were here to fix this tractor, guys!!

[johnp900]

You need to get back to the basics. Did you replace the O ring in the main jet of the bowl? There are two o rings to replace.

[Restrorob]

My MAIN question is IS DC on this engine suppose to be where the 2 magnets on FLYWHEEL line up with the coil???

Sorry, But in my 16yrs I have never payed this any attention when setting a engine at TDC to adjust valves. Simple reason being when only adjusting valves the flywheel cover does not have to be removed.

Restrorob; Since your not sure you were at TDC compression stroke when you adjusted the valves this is where you need to start;

Just for the record both intake and exhaust valves should be adjusted at .004" @ TDC.

Below is out of the manual that Bill posted the link for;

"Set the valve lash with the engine cold, the
piston at T.D.C., and both valves closed. Insert
the specified feeler gauge between the rocker
arm and valve stem. Adjust until a slight sliding
drag is felt."

No details as to find TDC as I posted above, The procedure I posted will work on ANY 4 cycle gas engine including automotive (was in that biz also).


Sarah; (2) CAN this tractor still runs if I sheared the flywheel key and it being off that much?


Restrorob; If the flywheel key was sheared and the flywheel was 6" off it wouldn't run at all, Since Tecumseh does use off-set keys on some engines the only real way to check one is remove the flywheel and LOOK at it.


Sarah; (3)I smell something burning coming out of exhaust manifold..it seems JUST like brakes burning..could my engine head gasket be cracked or broken???

The flywheel key very well could be PARTLY sheared throwing timing off which would cause the engine to run hotter than normal giving off what you smell. It could also be caused from a loosely adjusted exhaust valve not staying open long enough causing excessive heat build-up.

If you take this repair in the suggested steps the problem could be solved.....

Sarah; OKAY..wish you were here to fix this tractor, guys!!


Me Too, I most likely could have had it fixed in the time it took to type this post....:)

[Restrorob]

Below is the two 'O' rings that johnp900 mentioned, Either one being bad could cause a rich run situation. But I feel you need to make sure the valves are adjusted correctly first to eliminate that as a problem.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Tecumseh/TecuOHV130Carb.jpg

[sarah]

Thanks so much you guys for ALL your help..Bill, Johnp, Restrobob
I think I am alot better off fishing :laugh: than fixing Tecumseh problems..lol
Anyway, I am all set how to adjust valves as I've done it on all my sports cars in the past.. .004'", both intake and exhaust..., I got that . I think I am just going in too many different directions. I do remember hitting something with my Tractor; so perhaps it is a sheared key..if so, when I adjust the valves, will they be off if so???
I am going to do step by step as you guys posted ..as i said, the backfiring seems less since I made the valve adjustments, but now it stalls out..it only runs for a minute or less.I will keep trying..All your help has been super..KEEP up the great work..and I hope I can get this thing running..I am trying to avoid taking it to the repair shop.Thanks, everyone!:cool2:

BTW;I have to admit, it's much harder mowing a lawn by hand here in this Florida heat!

[Restrorob]

perhaps it is a sheared key..if so, when I adjust the valves, will they be off if so???


NO, They will not be off because you are adjusting the valves with the piston being at TDC compression stroke. The coil/flywheel position has nothing to do with valve train timing/adjustment on these small engines.

Sarah; I think I am just going in too many different directions

I concur, Jus slow down and take it a step at a time, It should fall into place.....

[sarah]

Okay guys..I have adjusted the valses to best of my knowledge..intake and exhaust at .004 inch, and now it starts, but stalls out after about a minute..
ANYWAY to check to see if this coil is bad?? I believe this is a solid state w/ magneto..Also, I am going to pull flywheel of next..how do I know if a VAlve is BAD or burnt???
THanks

[Restrorob]

Loosen the gas cap and start it again could be a plugged vent. If it still shuts down after a minute insert a Phillips screw driver into the spark plug wire boot.

Hold the shank of the screw driver within 1/8" of a head bolt etc. then crank the engine over while watching for a nice blue spark to jump the gap.

[sarah]

HEY RESTRO~
you are gonna help me get this thing going if it kills me!! I already tried to start riding mower w/o gas cap..same problem;still only runs for a minute or so..going to check spark tomorrow..you mentioned the coil might be bad..would that cause all this black dry soot in the spark plug and muffler? Or was that my valves ? Thanks for all your help!!

[Restrorob]

Well, I'm gonna give it a shot....

You want to check for spark right after it shuts down (while the engine is still warm from running that minute or so.

The black/fouled plug could be from a weak coil/sheared flywheel key or rich running/flooding carb, When the engine is running for that minute is it running properly ? When it shuts down is it like you reached up and turned the key off or does it pop/spit and sputter off ?

Have you checked the flywheel key yet since you say you hit something while mowing ?

Have you replaced the black fouled plug since you went into/cleaned the carb ?

Sorry for all the questions but the info will help in finding the problem.

[sarah]

Okay, I replaced :
(1) new spark plugs..and another new one..gapped to .030..same problem.
(2)replaced air filter, fuel filter, cleaned carb, cleaned gas tank out totally.
(3) adjusted both valves .004 (intake and exhaust)
** before all this work, tractor ran for a long time..but would backfire like crazy..but after all this work, it won't run for more than a few minutes
when I give it FULL throttle, it seems to run better, but then sputters and stops .
the 2 magnets on the flywheel..can these be replaced? The gap where they meet coil is too big on one side..maybe causing some trouble?
Also, I have not checked the flywheel yet. I do remember hitting something.

*just a note..when I turn the key on, NOTHING happens till I crank 4 -5 times, then starter grabs..but i think that is a separate issue like solenoid or ign switch (like you told me already) ..also my headlites do not work on tractor..
at full throttle it seems to run okay for a minute, then thats it!! Sometimes it will run a bit longer but only for a few minutes..weird..I will check coil and spark tomorrow per your request :)
THANKS for ALL your help..:walking:

[Restrorob]

the 2 magnets on the flywheel..can these be replaced? The gap where they meet coil is too big on one side..maybe causing some trouble?



The magnets on the flywheel can not be replaced, With the new info on the coil position from the magnets this could cause a weak/intermittent spark.

I now suggest checking the flywheel key as mentioned, With the flywheel magnets facing the coil insert any business card between the magnets and coil then loosen the coil mounting screws. The magnets will pull the coil to the flywheel, Lightly hold pressure pushing the coil to the magnets while tightening the mount screws. Rotate the flywheel by hand to remove the card.

With a good flywheel key and the coil air gap set properly this will assure the ignition timing is in-deed correct, Test run the engine again at this point.

[sarah]

Once again, thanks for all your help Just trying to get this running w/o going to the shop..
The 2 magnets on my flywheel each have a mounting screw dead center on each of them..However, my coil is fixed..it has 2 mounting bolts, but it does not pivot, slide or anything..there are fixed and it appears (if I haven't missed something) that the coil itself cannot be moved or adjusted. I know what the gap adjustment spec is, but there is no adjustment on this coil that I can see at all.
Also, if I take that big top flywheel nut off, can I visually see if key is sheared or broke, or do I have to get a puller and all??..
Thanks

[sarah]

Okay ..I just noted that the correct TECUMSEH coil for this Murray Riding mower is part#Tecumseh Elec Ignition Coil 34443A ..the mounting holes on it have slots so the coil can move and be adjusted..looks like I have the WRONG coil on this thing..don't ask me how its been running all these years if so...maybe we found part of the big problem here..HMMMM..

[Restrorob]

if I take that big top flywheel nut off, can I visually see if key is sheared or broke, or do I have to get a puller and all??..
Thanks

If you can SEE the key slot in both the flywheel and crankshaft and they are aligned perfectly it would be safe to assume the key is OK.

But as I mentioned before Tecumseh does use a off-set key on some engines and parts break-down does not de-note this......

Also, If this engine has a improper coil on it the proper coil really should be installed to eliminate that as a problem.

[sarah]

thanks, REstro~
few more questions
will a sheared flywheel key cause a weak spark? I have correct coil, just did not visually see the slots till I removed mounting screws..I adjusted gap, but still do not have a strong spark..it's yellow..weak. It won't stay running more than a minute..it did not do this before ..before it would run, but backfire..
another thing, do I have to buy a special flywheel puller to remove flywheel? Or can I use a steering wheel puller?
THANKS!

[Restrorob]

A sheared flywheel key will not cause weak spark but cause it to spark at the wrong time.

I use a steering wheel puller on some flywheels if it will fit.

Try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil and check spark again, You could be getting a feed-back from a safety switch or the ignition switch.

[sarah]

RESTRO!! IT WAS a BAD ignition switch..THANKS to you and ALL your help!! I got it up and runnning..started right away:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :) :)
THANK GOD! NOw, for adjustments..The only problem is wjhen I Engage the lever to MOW, it starts acting up a bit and maybe its that the valves are dirty?? I still have alot of black, dry carbon..how do u clean this out and should I pull off engine head to clean valves and all?:nono:
I am SO happy this was only a $7 bill so far..I REALLy , really appreciate all your help..the gap is fine now on the coil..

[Restrorob]

GREAT !!! :clapping:


Now, For the still sooty plug....

It's not necessary to pull the head to clean this out, Once the rich running problem is solved the engine will lean back out and burn it out.

Easy things first;
Is the air filter good and CLEAN ?
If you put oil on the pre-filter did you soak ALL excess out squeezing it in paper towels ? Too much oil on this could restrict air flow.

You never posted the tractor model number so I can't see if you must push the throttle control lever all the way up for choke position.

If you do have this throttle set-up make sure when you put the lever in full throttle position (Most have a little detent notch/area) that the choke butterfly in the carb is FULLY open. Cables do need adjusting sometimes so the choke doesn't start closing in the full throttle (detent)position.

Did you ever get around to checking the flywheel key ?
As mentioned if it is partly sheared it could still run semi OK but cause the fouling soot.

The only other reason I can come up with for a sooty fouling plug was mentioned in post #10 in this thread so refer back to it.

Again, Good to hear it at-least runs now. http://www.ostfriesenpower.org/neues.htm/c014.gif

[sarah]

Was just outside..the tractor runs fine except when I ENGAGE the blades to mow..it sorta surges(increases speed, then decreases speed). When I go to move the throttle in the ENGAGE position, THIS is when it does not run right.. MODEL40541x99C
OHV130-206810D MURRAY RIDING MOWER 13HP TECUMSEH engine
I did already put a new air filter..did not put any put on it??And it has a new fuel filter as I said..I also cleaned out the throttle body w/ choke cleaner...tomorrow I'll see if the detent position makes the choke open position.
AND YES, the throttle cable ..you must push it all the way up to choke it..
WHat would cause it to rev up and down in speed when I engage blades to mow??????????????????????????????
So far, so good..I just hope a valve is not sticking or something.. thanks, again!:)

[Restrorob]

Sarah,
What I was speaking of about the air filter is if you are using a foam pre-cleaner (which you should be) that is what you want a light film of oil on to better trap smaller particles of dust/dirt.

It's #245A below;

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Tecumseh/TecuOHV1317AirFilter.jpg



WHat would cause it to rev up and down in speed when I engage blades to mow??????????????????????????????

Fear not about any valve problems, The hunting (speed up/down) problem is either the carb or governor adjustment.

If you check the choke butterfly as mentioned and it is not fully open leave the throttle lever in the full speed detent position and loosen the clamp holding the cable to the engine.

Slide the cable in or out of the clamp until the choke opens fully then re-tighten and check for the butterfly closing fully when you move the throttle lever to choke position.

If you find the choke fully open try this;

With the air filter in place start the engine and engage the blades, Give it full throttle to the detent position. If/when it starts "hunting" SLOWLY move the throttle lever to the choke position and see if at any point the engine smooths out and stops hunting.

Let me know the out-come....

Cya

[sarah]

Restro..I do believe this tractor is hexed..yesterday it ran , I drove it around the block..I did not touch anything overnite and today it would start, only run a few minutes, and stall out. I checked the detent position..the choke is open and okay..when you told me to rev it , it still will not run right..it hunts, then stalls..I don't get it!! And its worse when I engage the blades..
my next thing will be a carb overhaul, but I hope this coil is okay..this is crazy!
PS fuel tank has a leaky seam..no other obvious defects..if I remove tank cap, still same problem..

[Restrorob]

Sarah,

You are on the right track with the carb overhaul, Just keep chipping away at it and it will have to give up sooner or later and start running properly.....

[sarah]

Restro..it's definitely hexed..:nono:

[Bill Kapaun]

Sarah- If that engine has a "plastic bowled" carb, it's my understanding that the easiest think to do with the carb is to "repair" with a "plastic bowl kit". It's supposed to be about $18 and "solves all your problems".
Anyway, That's what I've heard:)
http://www.manddsmallengine.com/tecumseh/parts/730638.html

[sarah]

Hi Bill
Thanks so much for the info..that carb kit is exactly the same carb as mine!!!..I will definitely order it..hope it does the trick..many, many, thanks..you and Restro have been a HUGE help
Where do you catch those huge fish in your pic?? I fish Florida waters and have landed some big ones <0000>< (fish pic) :)

[Bill Kapaun]

That was a salmon I caught back in 1972 off the WA coast. Back in the days when one could actually fish! Nothing like eating fresh salmon that you caught a couple hours before. I got so spoiled, it's hard to get myself to eat any fish anymore. Yesterday's catch just doesn't cut it! TOO OLD!

[sarah]

OKAY
eher's the latest..It surges up and down..won't hold an idle..I didwhat you said..you said to put it in DEYTENT position..it won't run good there or BELOW (lower throttle)..it surges, revs up and down, then STALLS..I can retart it back up again. IF I move throttle slowly UP, and reach a point (like you said), it will hold idle and run okay, but THAT position is about one quarter inch up from DETENT position..WHAT causes this cuz you said to do this..?????????????????????????????????????
My next step is a carb kit..
thanks

[Restrorob]

one quarter inch up from DETENT position..WHAT causes this cuz you said to do this..?????????????????????????????????????
My next step is a carb kit..


Sarah,

What is happening is the carb is running lean, There is a fuel restriction inside the carb, Most likely the main jet. What you did by taking the throttle past the detent is start applying the choke MAKING the carb give more fuel to the engine so it would continue to run with less to no surge.

What this little test told ME is that it is in fact a carb problem now and NOT a governor or governor adjustment problem.

Continue with the carb rebuild/repair, And if possible use the kit that Bill posted the part number for which will make the job easier for you and know everything will be open and clean.

Cya

[sarah]

OKAY..I have to order this carb kit..it all comes in one piece and will save a lot of work..I hope this jalopy will run okay after that..you have helped me immensely adjusting valves, etc..I learned a lot from you..it will take me awhile to get the part..but after I install it..you'll hear from me..so hope you are still around by then!! Thanks, RESTRO!!:) And thanks for all your posts!! Keep up the great work on here!!!!

[Restrorob]

It wasn't any problem Sarah, I enjoyed being able to lend a hand even though YOU did all the work !!!

I will be watching for your "Finishing" reply as usual. :waving:

Good Luck !

[johnp900]

I hope you can get a plastic bowl kit. I have had them on backorder for 8 weeks. Part # 730638

[Restrorob]

Looks like Outdoor distributors may have them;

http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-8671&category=Tecumseh_Parts&maxhits=20&keywords=730638&go=GO%21

[sarah]

You need to get back to the basics. Did you replace the O ring in the main jet of the bowl? There are two o rings to replace.

hi john
thanks for your help..where did u get this breakdown and parts pic for the Tecumseh series 7 carb? Do u know the oring part #'s just wondering
thanks
sarah

[sarah]

RESTRO
where did u get that pic of the Tecumseh carb o rings..series 7 (plastic bowl)..just wondering ..I might buy the whole bowl on ebay..found one..very well priced..but if not..do u have the Tecumseh part numbers for both o-rings and spring (fits under main emulsion nozzle)?
thanks
Sarah :)

[Restrorob]

Sorry for the delay Sarah, I awoke too late to log in this morning. :hammerhead:

Here is a re-post of the break-down and below the part number listing, The last numbers to the right is the part reference numbers.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Tecumseh/TecuOHV130Carb.jpg


CARBURETOR (INCL. 184 OF ENGINE PARTS LIST 640065

THROTTLE LINK BUSHING 36288 1A

THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY 640035 1

THROTTLE RETURN SPRING 640036 2

DUST SEAL 640037 5

THROTTLE SHUTTER 640038 6

THROTTLE SHUTTER SCREWS 650506 7

CHOKE SHAFT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY 640044 10

CHOKE RETURN SPRING 640045 11

DUST SEAL 640037 13

CHOKE SHUTTER 640066 14

THROTTLE CRACK SCREW/IDLE SPEED SCREW 651025 17

TENSION SPRING 630766 18

IDLE RESTRICTOR 632701 25A

FLOAT BOWL 640039 25

FLOAT SHAFT 632544 27

FLOAT 632543 28

FLOAT BOWL TO BODY GASKET 640047 29

INLET NEEDLE AND SEAT 632709 30

BOWL DRAIN SCREW 640041 32

BOWL DRAIN WASHER 640042 33

MAIN NOZZLE TUBE 640067 36

"O" RING 632547 37A

"O" RING, MAIN NOZZLE TUBE 632547 37

SPRING 632545 38A

SPRING, MAIN NOZZLE TUBE 632545 38

FLOAT BOWL RETAINER 640048 39

MAIN FUEL JET 640068 40

WELCH PLUG, IDLE MIXING WELL 630748 47

CARBURETOR REPAIR KIT 730638 None

FLOAT BOWL ASSY REPAIR KIT 730638 None

If you do go with separate parts go ahead and replace the main jet also because it is nothing but plastic.


Cya.....

[sarah]

HEY RESTRO
you are just totally cool helping me out..thanks again...
I am gonna leave you this tractor in my will if I ever get it running !!:clapping: :)

[sarah]

[B][FIRST,
MY UTMOST THANKS and more thanks and more:) :) :) ..words are NOT enough to thank you guys for helping out and giving your best to folks out here..After driving you all nuts, I got a carb kit on EBAY as suggested ..it snaps right on, and this old Murray Rding Mower purrs like a kitten!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just fixed it today!
Originally it had a bad backfiring problem, and "Restro" walked me through how to find TDC and adjust the valves..then it was surging and would not hold an idle..stubborn as I am, I took the old carb apart and noticed the 0-ring to the main JET was swelled up and its opening half the size of the original O-ring; thus restricting GAS flow just as you guys said. Paul, thanks for the carb tip and Bill, thanks for your pots! And RESTRO, you are one smart guy.:walking:
I just went out and restarted it and its the BEST it's ever run..all of you saved me from sweating my brains out and mowing with the hand mower in this Florida heat!!
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! KEEP UP THE SUPER WORK..and thanks from my MURRAY :)

[Bill Kapaun]

Finally GOOD NEWS!:)
Glad to hear that occasionally
Just curious. How much did the kit cost?

PS you weren't supposed to mention my pots!:)

[sarah]

HA! well; I did not mention your posts, just your pots..too funny..I am great at typos; sorry..
The CARB BOWL KIT was $14 plus $4 ship..there are others posted on Ebay, too..you were right on the TARGET, Bill!!!!!!!
BTW: let me know how your pots are doing, and thanks,so VERY much..It's running GREAT!! :)

[Restrorob]

RESTRO, you are one smart guy.


:o :o :o Golly Geee Sarah, I've only been half way around the block ! http://www.redtailboa.net/forums/images/smilies/eusa_whistle.gif


Glad to hear it's up and running, You deserve a http://www.redtailboa.net/forums/images/smilies/eusa_clap.gif for staying with it and doing all the work.


BTW,
I was all geared up to http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/images/smilies/burnout.gif down to Melbourne had you posted it still wasn't running right.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/images/smilies/cogratulations.gif http://www.floridatrailriders.org/ftr_forums/images/smilies/biker_h4h.gif

[sarah]

[B][THANKS, AGAIN, RESTRO..:rolleyes:
no, you are not half way around the block..it says on here you live in Hole in the Woods, Florida..I don't know where in God's name that is, but I was ready to tow this thing to you and pay you to fix it..BUT, I bet you are more than half way around the block!!
If it wasn't for you, I'd NEVER have this up and running..I even mowed with it :) :) tonite..then it started down pouring/B]
What a relief to sit down and mow!! HA!!
Seriously though, a BIG THANKS..Just keep up the GREAT work helping others..it means a lot to us out here!! you just have no idea what we go through trying to fix these machine w/o the smarts like you !
P.S..don't worry, I have a PUSh mower that won't engage to self drive or whatever you call it, so I'll be looking you up again soon!!:hammerhead: :waving:

[Restrorob]

...............