PDA

View Full Version : What's the best approach for overseeding?


mcollins
09-13-2007, 11:35 AM
We put our lawn in last spring and had very little success due to the lack of rain. We just couldn't get enough water to it. Thru the summer alot of grabgrass has come up which so die out pretty soon. I'd like to overseed here in the next week or so but am wondering what the best approach is? My thought was to mow the lawn short then either core aerate and use a broadcast spreader or to use a slit seeder. Any thoughts as to which approach I should take? Will just core aerating produce a high enough soil to seed ratio? Also, I should mention that the ground is really hard and compacted. Will a slit seeder work well with compacted ground? I'm also assuming that I don't need to mulch after I've seeded and applied start fert? Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks.

scalpit77
09-13-2007, 02:30 PM
Scalp, dethatch, aerate, fertilize, seed, and water water water. After turf is up and healthy, spray out any weeds with a good selective herbicide. Pre-m after that.

mcollins
09-13-2007, 10:02 PM
The lawn is pretty thin and there isn't much thatch, if any. So, is running a core areator enough before I fertilize and broadcase seed? Is it worth the extra time, money and effort to use a slit seeder instead? Will I get far better results?

carcrz
09-13-2007, 10:18 PM
aerate a couple times. The more contact the seed gets w/ bare soil the better.

rodfather
09-14-2007, 06:00 AM
Aerate twice and broadcast with starter fert then your grass seed

turfnh2oman
09-14-2007, 06:12 AM
We put our lawn in last spring and had very little success due to the lack of rain. We just couldn't get enough water to it. Thru the summer alot of grabgrass has come up which so die out pretty soon. I'd like to overseed here in the next week or so but am wondering what the best approach is? My thought was to mow the lawn short then either core aerate and use a broadcast spreader or to use a slit seeder. Any thoughts as to which approach I should take? Will just core aerating produce a high enough soil to seed ratio? Also, I should mention that the ground is really hard and compacted. Will a slit seeder work well with compacted ground? I'm also assuming that I don't need to mulch after I've seeded and applied start fert? Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks.

1) Spray Roundup and slice seed, No. Spray Drive at label rate and slice seed, Yes. Only if there's enough desirable turf there already. Wait one week to seed after Drive.

2) Spray Roundup then dethatch down to bare soil, rake off debris, overseed and ROLL IN [do not DRAG !] . Use debris you raked off as mulch or use straw. (Debris is lighter weight, decomposes quicker and starts a nice minimum organic thatch layer, besides that, it's free and onsite !] Whatever you prefer. Starter Fert at 1 lb N/Mft.2 at seeding and another 3/4 lb. N 4-6 weeks later, weather depending. Keep moist 5-7 weeks and Voila'! Lesco Starter 18-24-12 is what I use. 50% SCU.

Option 2 will give you best results. I prefer this rather than slit seeding into what was crap grass to begin with.

Objective, a healthy, UNIFORM stand. :weightlifter:

dcgreenspro
09-14-2007, 12:41 PM
1) Spray Roundup and slice seed, No. Spray Drive at label rate and slice seed, Yes. Only if there's enough desirable turf there already. Wait one week to seed after Drive.

2) Spray Roundup then dethatch down to bare soil, rake off debris, overseed and ROLL IN [do not DRAG !] . Use debris you raked off as mulch or use straw. (Debris is lighter weight, decomposes quicker and starts a nice minimum organic thatch layer, besides that, it's free and onsite !] Whatever you prefer. Starter Fert at 1 lb N/Mft.2 at seeding and another 3/4 lb. N 4-6 weeks later, weather depending. Keep moist 5-7 weeks and Voila'! Lesco Starter 18-24-12 is what I use. 50% SCU.

Option 2 will give you best results. I prefer this rather than slit seeding into what was crap grass to begin with.

Objective, a healthy, UNIFORM stand. :weightlifter:


I don't mean to knock ya, but why spend the money for drive when the crab is already starting to do out now (I'm in PA)......and then come back in with round-up. Waste of time AND money.
Double aerify or slit seed what ever you prefer. If you can afford it some starter mulch will go a long way in keeping the new seeds moist.

Smallaxe
09-14-2007, 10:58 PM
Aerating is useful but IMHO overated. Your soil and tilth is basically fresh and new. I would run a tiller before an aerator and have better results.
Slit seeding over dead crabgrass works too :)

turfnh2oman
09-16-2007, 06:57 PM
I don't mean to knock ya, but why spend the money for drive when the crab is already starting to do out now (I'm in PA)......and then come back in with round-up. Waste of time AND money.
Double aerify or slit seed what ever you prefer. If you can afford it some starter mulch will go a long way in keeping the new seeds moist.

I wrote that as do option 1 OR option 2, not both. Therefore it's not a waste of time and money. As for the crab dying out, it sure as hell isn't here in Cincy. Crab doesn't usually get fritzed until the first hard frost anyway which is quite a way off both here and in Pa. unless you're already down to overnight freezes ?:confused:
As for the starter mulch, if you're talking about the pellets I wouldn't give you a penny for a ton of them. Try using the dead thatch you rake off if you take the roundup method and go all the way down to the soil. It'll work much better for several reasons. First it'll decompose quicker an give an organic boost to your entire seedbed with a starter thatch layer that'll not be detrimental to your turf. Secondly, it's all dead [inert] materal with no weed seed in it. Even if you don't roundup but only dethatch you can still use the debris as mulch. The trauma alone to it when you dethatch will keep most weed seed from coming through and the decomp process will still be quick and beneficial.

mcollins
09-21-2007, 09:12 AM
One more quick question.....I stopped into the local Agway and was talking to them about overseeding and they say that I shouldn't apply my fert until after the seed has germinated so that it doesn't burn out the seed. Agree/disagree? They also urged me to apply lime before I seed(even though the pH of the soil is between 6 and 7). There reasoning was since we're expecting rain this week nurtralize the acidity. Thoughts?

weeble67
09-21-2007, 12:24 PM
[QUOTE=turfnh2oman;1965752]I wrote that as do option 1 OR option 2, not both. Therefore it's not a waste of time and money. As for the crab dying out, it sure as hell isn't here in Cincy. Crab doesn't usually get fritzed until the first hard frost anyway which is quite a way off both here and in Pa. unless you're already down to overnight freezes ?:confused:


Do you think it's wet enough in Ohio for the seeds to germenate? I
have a couple small lawns I want to do and I'm afraid to. I was in agreement on the double aerate then seed and fertilize. But, with this weather I almost think I better wait till spring.

dcgreenspro
09-21-2007, 02:22 PM
I wrote that as do option 1 OR option 2, not both. Therefore it's not a waste of time and money. As for the crab dying out, it sure as hell isn't here in Cincy. Crab doesn't usually get fritzed until the first hard frost anyway which is quite a way off both here and in Pa. unless you're already down to overnight freezes ?:confused:
As for the starter mulch, if you're talking about the pellets I wouldn't give you a penny for a ton of them. Try using the dead thatch you rake off if you take the roundup method and go all the way down to the soil. It'll work much better for several reasons. First it'll decompose quicker an give an organic boost to your entire seedbed with a starter thatch layer that'll not be detrimental to your turf. Secondly, it's all dead [inert] materal with no weed seed in it. Even if you don't roundup but only dethatch you can still use the debris as mulch. The trauma alone to it when you dethatch will keep most weed seed from coming through and the decomp process will still be quick and beneficial.

Sorry I read that wrong.
The crab is starting to go out in my area because of some overnight lows in the upper 40's. It's losing color and not growing. His biggest problem was not getting enough water on it and that is why I recommended starter mulch. Make sure to follow up in a month after seeding with some slow release or starter fert and make sure next year, you apply dimension or barricade.

Stillwater
09-21-2007, 06:06 PM
I would spray drive in the spring and not waist it spraying now

The Cutting Edge
09-21-2007, 06:23 PM
I got an idea, I live in Cincinnati and you could pay me to come out and do it for you!!!! On a more seious note I would scalp your hard, water for two days 6 times a day for about 15 minutes each time, then I would areate twice, then mix your starter fert and your seed in your brodcast spreader. Then go to town. I would mix about 15 pounds of starter fert. per 50 pound bag of seed. I would try to go with Lesco Team Mates for the seed. I do live in Cincy and unless your yard is irragated then you definately need to water for to days prior due to the ground being so dry.. After all is said and done I would then water for abot a week straight 6 times a day for 10 minute intervals. I gaurantee this will give you the best result. You will have germination within 2-3 days.. This is just my two cents..

turfnh2oman
09-21-2007, 06:44 PM
Make sure your fert is Starter Fertilizer with at least a 50% slow release. It will not hurt the seed whatsoever to apply at seeding just make sure not to traffic the area to much after fertilizer and seed is down. You'll crush the pellets and eliminate the slow release of "N". If that happens you will get detriment to the seed. Generally speaking though this is usually not a problem. As for the lime question, If you have a ph between 6-7 you don't need lime, rain or no rain, doesn't matter.

OUTLANDER
02-09-2008, 06:53 PM
and lime only when grass goes dormant,end of season,help grass when it comes back after a bad northern winter (whats that..lol)