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matthew69
09-18-2001, 11:04 PM
I have a tecumseh 6hp engine on a craftsman which I got used that I want to repair. I had someone sugested that there was a sheared flywheel key because when I pull the recoil and it kicks back hard and pulls the cord out of my hand. I pulled the flywheel and the key wasn't the problem. And I also had someone sugest seeing as the key was not the problem was the cam and someone else said that it was because it was missing the blade and now I have not put the flywheel back on yet because I dont know if I will need to open the crancase or not anyway to make a long story short I hear there is a certain torque that you have to put the flywheel back on plus I dont know what the gap is for the magnet/coil spacing I am totaly lost on this one any help would be great thanks:confused

Fish
09-18-2001, 11:08 PM
Trying to start it without the blade was your first problem. If you
put the blade back on it will give you something to hold while you
tighten the flywheel nut. Get it as tight as you can by hand.
Fish

khouse
09-19-2001, 12:42 AM
Fish is right. The main flywheel on the engine is aluminum and doesn't store enough energy to drive the piston past TDC. So you won't have that problem when you install the blade. When you buy an engine for a Tiller you must specify it's for a tiller so you'll get the engine with a cast iron flywheel since you have no blade to add weight to a tiller engine.

khouse
09-19-2001, 12:47 AM
If you don't have a feeler gauge then space the coil legs 3 copy papers thick. Take a piece of copy paper and fold it to 3 thicknesses. Use this as your spacer.

plow kid
09-19-2001, 01:46 AM
A buisness card will work also, thats what I use

Robert Doubrava
09-19-2001, 03:34 PM
kick back will occur when the ignition system fires too soon on the compression stroke. that happens if the flywheel key is partially sheared, which it wasn't like you said. im pretty sure this is correct, because i read it out of a manual. :D :alien: :blob3: